First Time DWC Grower (and soil FFOF): Any advice / help would be much appreciated!!!

G

geko26

Member
Ok, so here's my setup:

-1x200watt CFL (6500k) on 20/4 cycle
-area is about 1.5'x2.5'
-RH = 40-50, 78-82F
-2 regular feminized in DWC's (one is a haze, other is a kush), 1 Auto in FFOF (AK47 hybrid)
-PH is around 6 for the DWC's and 6.5 for FFOF
-Age of soil grow is 29 days
-Age of DWC's are 20 days
-I put 1/4 strength nutes in the DWC's a week ago

They are looking ok so far, but there are 2 i'm starting to get a little concerned about, but nothing major yet. The first DWC (haze) started to have the edges of some leaves wilt a little. The PH sky rocketed into the upper 7's and the water level was too high, so I lowered water and brought PH back down to 6.5 (I forgot to check the PH almost daily). So I'm hoping the lower PH and the lower water level will fix that? Unless you guys think its something else.

The second DWC (kush) is looking great in my opinion, leaves are nice color and size, everything seems to be going fine with her.

The auto in FFOF has a little burning look on the edges of like 3 leaves. It's not all over as you can see in the picture, but just a couple leaves. Is this ok or is there something I should correct? I only water it about every 3 days, when i see the soil get a little dry/crusty, and i water it until i see some run off.

Any input would be much appreciated! The nutes I put in the DWC's are dynagrow liquid grow (i used 1/4 strength and didn't really notice any bad side effects the last week until now, but only with the 1 plant with the wilting looking tips, but maybe that was due to the high PH and high water levels?

DWC 1 with the droopy tips:
IMG_0201.jpg

DWC 2: looks ok
IMG_0203.jpg

Auto with the burned edges:
IMG_0202.jpg

All of them together:
IMG_0204.jpg
 
reverof

reverof

Active Member
Plants look good... a little nute burn on the ffof one but it has already gotten past that so no worries.... DynaGro is some good nute, not sure how much you use, I would recommend 5mls per gallon being full strength.

Good luck!
 
shagalicious

shagalicious

Active Member


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[FONT=&quot]originally posted here - https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/364786-leaves-curling-downward-need-advice.html[/FONT]
by woodsmaneh!
[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Solving marijuana Plan Leaf Curl/Cupping Problems[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Plenty of first time and experienced marijuana growers will suffer at some point in their cannabis growing career marijuana plants that begin to show leaf damage.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Often they write emails or post on forums.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]“Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]or[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]“My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?”[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Unless another marijuana grower inspects the damage a true assessment might not be possible. It's hard to tell "exactly" what the culprit is. Unfortunately the “solution” the marijuana grower chooses many times is not the right one.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]A misdiagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the marijuana grower.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Here are some common problems when marijuana leaves are curling.[/FONT]

  1. [FONT=&quot]Too much marijuana fertilizer[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
    The most common cause of marijuana leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is overzealous use of marijuana plant food. In relationship to factors such as marijuana plant vigor and rate of growth. Leaf burn is often the very first sign of too much marijuana fertilizer.
    A hard, crispy feel to the marijuana leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy pot leaf. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of using marijuana fertilizer. Too much marijuana fertilizer can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem. [/FONT]
  2. [FONT=&quot]High Heat[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
    The marijuana plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The marijuana leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat in the marijuana grow-op and concentrate on developing a large robust root system. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced pot leaf dessication or marijuana leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the cannabis plant. The damaged pot leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.[/FONT]
  3. [FONT=&quot]Too much light[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
    Yes, it’s true, you can give your marijuana plant too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing marijuana leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor marijuana growers. Turn down the time when the lights on in your marijuana grow room. If you're using a 24 hr cycle, turn it down to 20 hrs. Those on 18 - 6 marijuana growth cycle can turn their lights down two or three hours. Too much light can have many adverse effects on marijuana plants. Concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.[/FONT]
  4. [FONT=&quot]Over Watering[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
    For marijuana growers using soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. The marijuana plants roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. Over watering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Many times marijuana growers believe their cannabis plant is not getting enough marijuana fertilizers (which it can't under such adverse conditions), so they add more marijuana fertilizers. Making the problem worst. Not better. Often problem 1 and 4 go together. Too much marijuana fertilizer combined with too much water. Creating plenty of marijuana plant problems.[/FONT]
  5. [FONT=&quot]Not Enough Water[/FONT][FONT=&quot]
    Not only is the marijuana plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic marijuana growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. One of the best methods in determining whether a marijuana plant requires watering is lifting the pots. The pots should be light to lift before a water session. After watering the marijuana plants lift the pots to get an understanding how heavy they've become fully watered. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the side of the pot before watering. And of course, leach, once in a while to get rid of excess salts. These are the five most common problems marijuana growers encounter when growing cannabis. Correcting the problems early will save the marijuana plants, but may reduce overall yield. With practice and experience these problems are easily overcome which will then enable the marijuana grower to produce fantastic marijuana plants. With heavy yields.[/FONT]
 
glennid10t

glennid10t

Member
I think they look pretty good. I only do DWC anymore. Whatever you choose to do...it takes a couple days for results to show. Cal mag is good for providing the base to allow your plants to process the nutrients more efficiently. I found it was more important with DWC than soil.
good luck!
 
G

geko26

Member
Question about lighting:

I have 2 different plants: 1 auto thats about 30 days in out of 75-80 (sex already showing, its a fem) and then the 2 regular's on DWC that are only about 20 days in. I have 2 lights, 1 200 watt CFL @ 6500k, and 1 150watt HPS. How should I go about doing this? I still have another 2 weeks until I put the 2 in DWC into flower, and the auto already is starting to bloom. Would it be best to turn the 150HPS on now to get some red spectrum in there for the auto? And then when I change over to having the 2 in DWC flower, is the amount of red spectrum the 150HPS putting out enough to power all 3 plants (and should I keep the 200 CFL 6500k on), or should I just go pick up a 200w 2500k-3500k CFL coupled with the 150 HPS when I decide to flower? What route / bulbs / lights would work best? I of course am trying to avoid buying a CFL bulb for flowering, but if it's not too much (like less than $50-70) and it would make a much bigger difference than just the 200 and 150 i have now hooked up, then maybe i go that route?
 
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