First organic soil mix. What do you think?

OK so I've been a hydroponics guy from the start. Started with dwc for a while then recently switched to coco and synthetics. My motto was yield then trichomes then taste and smell. I have dank weed but I want the best. So now as times are changing I don't want yield to be number one any more I want the dankest shit around haha. So I mixed my own soil today and wanted to know what you organic gurus thought of the mix. I've done lots of research on organic amendments and millions of recipes. I wanted to do the whole build a soil recipe but can't fathom shipping meals and stuff across the country when I can find reasonable substitutes locally. As well as in my locale anything neem is not allowed. Stupid I know. Anyway my mix is as follows.
Base in 5 gal pails
2 1/2 promix
2 coco
3 ewc
1/2 perilite
1/2 vermiculite

43.5 gallons or 5.66 cubic feet

Ammendments
1 cup flower power welcome harvest farm
1 cup super grow welcome harvest farm
2 cups blood meal
4 cups bone meal
2 cups kelp meal
2 cups greensand
3 cups oyster shell
3 cups glacial rock dust
1/4 cup Epsom salt

Will this mix get me through a three week veg and a 9 week flower cycle? I can always add more as a top dress and tea but just curious if anyone has any opinions or experience with something similar. Want that dank organic bud

Getgrowingson said:

Will this mix get me through a three week veg and a 9 week flower cycle? I can always add more as a top dress and tea but just curious if anyone has any opinions or experience with something similar. Want that dank organic bud

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the answer is very much predicated on how big your container is, what lights, what strain, etc.
My sole concern would be that you may have a phosphurus def mix reason being is because the mix is already limed (in the promix) and MOST of the bone meal isn't available unless the mix has spent a good amount of time cycling, more specifically in an acidic ph.
so you may benefit from some guanos, or maybe rabbit manure

Getgrowingson said:

OK so I've been a hydroponics guy from the start. Started with dwc for a while then recently switched to coco and synthetics. My motto was yield then trichomes then taste and smell. I have dank weed but I want the best. So now as times are changing I don't want yield to be number one any more I want the dankest shit around haha. So I mixed my own soil today and wanted to know what you organic gurus thought of the mix. I've done lots of research on organic amendments and millions of recipes. I wanted to do the whole build a soil recipe but can't fathom shipping meals and stuff across the country when I can find reasonable substitutes locally. As well as in my locale anything neem is not allowed. Stupid I know. Anyway my mix is as follows.
Base in 5 gal pails
2 1/2 promix
2 coco
3 ewc
1/2 perilite
1/2 vermiculite

43.5 gallons or 5.66 cubic feet

Ammendments
1 cup flower power welcome harvest farm
1 cup super grow welcome harvest farm
2 cups blood meal
4 cups bone meal
2 cups kelp meal
2 cups greensand
3 cups oyster shell
3 cups glacial rock dust
1/4 cup Epsom salt

Will this mix get me through a three week veg and a 9 week flower cycle? I can always add more as a top dress and tea but just curious if anyone has any opinions or experience with something similar. Want that dank organic bud

Click to expand...

Hve you mixed yet? i just mixed up 150 gallons and wish i had read a lil more first..

Looks like you already side-stepped aluminum by not using rock phosphate so thats good stuff, man..
..but then it gets re-introduced with the aeration choice, so just curious if you can get rice hulls or pumice or lava rock or local rock or bio char or more oyster shell, since they're superior choices..

Not a huge deal if your mix isn't gonna get too acidic but yours probably should in order to get unlocked so to speak, as grease is wise about. This is why I add those two aerations after if using them..

You also have some amendments that are really primo, like kelp greensand, oyster etc
But if after the real primo I'd be tempted to try a plant (or crop) out with NO bone meal and no blood meal.. If really set on a bone meal fish is better and cleaner, and crab shell meal cleaner yet, (which also has all the chitin benefits so you don't need insect frass or fermented teas)

In my experience, It will equate to smoother smoke, lighter ash, more flavour, and mostly, less burnout, with the less animal sources..

My latest recipe pushed the kelp up and cut the meat and the same phenos grew side by side, one smelled almost kushy fuelly and it was a Sativa..

That uber smelly extra tasty pot of course was the slaughterhouse free mix..

Guanos myself haven't used so can't speak about them.. I've heard they can increase yields but harshness too.

One thing to bare in mind regardless, is sensi likes a little b vitamins as well as epsom/sulfur early flower to bring out her full terp potential.. As well as different light spectrums / ray types at different stages..

So don't underestimate a thing!
Every little thing makes a difference in your end product..

Here's somè water-only, top shelf dank that sticks to whatever it touches even after curing nicely.. Some bagseed that got the hack last month..really clean


And some Silver..also water only minus one basic tea of just EWC and BsM

For inspiration,
My dude

greasemonkeymann said:

the answer is very much predicated on how big your container is, what lights, what strain, etc.
My sole concern would be that you may have a phosphurus def mix reason being is because the mix is already limed (in the promix) and MOST of the bone meal isn't available unless the mix has spent a good amount of time cycling, more specifically in an acidic ph.
so you may benefit from some guanos, or maybe rabbit manure

Click to expand...

Strain is cookies was thinking 3 gal veg and 7 gal flower. Was gonna add

greasemonkeymann said:

the answer is very much predicated on how big your container is, what lights, what strain, etc.
My sole concern would be that you may have a phosphurus def mix reason being is because the mix is already limed (in the promix) and MOST of the bone meal isn't available unless the mix has spent a good amount of time cycling, more specifically in an acidic ph.
so you may benefit from some guanos, or maybe rabbit manure

Click to expand...

Cookies is the strain km gonna try it on. Veg In 3 gal flower in 7. I can get some high phosphorus guano in there if you think that will help. I use a organic product called mammoth microbes which is a phosphorus soluble bacteria which really seems to unlock more p. I'll add a little guano to the mix and let it cook 5 weeks.

Double post a little haha. Also I forgot to put that I added two cups of diatlmacous earth as well

Getgrowingson said:

Strain is cookies was thinking 3 gal veg and 7 gal flower. Was gonna add

Cookies is the strain km gonna try it on. Veg In 3 gal flower in 7. I can get some high phosphorus guano in there if you think that will help. I use a organic product called mammoth microbes which is a phosphorus soluble bacteria which really seems to unlock more p. I'll add a little guano to the mix and let it cook 5 weeks.

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wow man.. you are paying out the ASS for that mammoth microbes..
I'd bet money it's just fancy repackaged endo myco
That's an expensive product man

I got it as a free sample actually lol. So not paying a thing. They even shipped it right to my door. I picked up some high phos guano some crab meal rare earth from gh. Will add it when I get it and will start the cook!

Getgrowingson said:

I got it as a free sample actually lol. So not paying a thing. They even shipped it right to my door. I picked up some high phos guano some crab meal rare earth from gh. Will add it when I get it and will start the cook!

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cool, that's good that you didn't pay for that, it's expen$ive!

greasemonkeymann said:

wow man.. you are paying out the ASS for that mammoth microbes..
I'd bet money it's just fancy repackaged endo myco
That's an expensive product man

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I can actually vouch for this product. Dunno how they did it, but I actually do believe them when they say they specifically bred microorganisms for multiple generations. Yes, most of the bottle is water, but those little microbes they've bred kick some serious ass even diluted to a couple %. I'll never buy it because I think knf has it already nailed with imo's, but I digress, Mammoth P may actually be one of those bottled products "worth" the cost if it suites you. I was asking their reps a bunch of questions and they answered honestly, I would venture to say (I don't have the tech to scientifically verify their claims). For the free sample they sent me two of the sample bottles and one of their 250ml bottles, lmao way more than I'll use indoors before the microbes die off (or fall so low in numbers that the effects are unnoticeable, etc) in the 6 or so months that they list it takes for them to do so. I had a couple tester plants that I decided to test it out with and in the 30 days of bloom that I allowed them to go before I culled them for intersex traits they reallllly swelled, more so than my previous 3 runs with this strain by far, though I'm still skeptical because I've been changing up how I use barley. I'm also using it, mammoth P, in my garden this year, hoping to do a side by side on some sweet banana peppers just to show any possible visual differences. Again I'll (probably) never buy it but it was free and I like using free stuff For science!

Midwest Weedist said:

I can actually vouch for this product. Dunno how they did it, but I actually do believe them when they say they specifically bred microorganisms for multiple generations. Yes, most of the bottle is water, but those little microbes they've bred kick some serious ass even diluted to a couple %. I'll never buy it because I think knf has it already nailed with imo's, but I digress, Mammoth P may actually be one of those bottled products "worth" the cost if it suites you. I was asking their reps a bunch of questions and they answered honestly, I would venture to say (I don't have the tech to scientifically verify their claims). For the free sample they sent me two of the sample bottles and one of their 250ml bottles, lmao way more than I'll use indoors before the microbes die off (or fall so low in numbers that the effects are unnoticeable, etc) in the 6 or so months that they list it takes for them to do so. I had a couple tester plants that I decided to test it out with and in the 30 days of bloom that I allowed them to go before I culled them for intersex traits they reallllly swelled, more so than my previous 3 runs with this strain by far, though I'm still skeptical because I've been changing up how I use barley. I'm also using it, mammoth P, in my garden this year, hoping to do a side by side on some sweet banana peppers just to show any possible visual differences. Again I'll (probably) never buy it but it was free and I like using free stuff For science!

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it's nothing that you aren't doing already my brother.
I guaran-fuckin-tee that a compost will have those microbes.
I believe this is all based in scientific facts, being that endo myco assimilates MOST of the phosphorus to the plant. What the endo doesn't break down the baccilus species do
But honestly, after understanding the way nutrients work and how microbes work, I reaaaaally don't think any of this is needed.
gotta remember phosphorus isn't something the plant can use on it's own anyhow
but that's just my opinion.
I'm also curious how they keep microorganism (aerobic ones no less) alive in a sealed bottle...
all those phosphobacterins like oxygen
typically they are bacillus strains/species, they are all bacteria based. Nonsymbiotic
Hmmmm...
I think I'll stick to my compost pile.
hygrozyme is another one that this reminds me of.
I bet once you dial in your mix that it wouldn't make a discernible difference

Midwest Weedist said:

I can actually vouch for this product. Dunno how they did it, but I actually do believe them when they say they specifically bred microorganisms for multiple generations. Yes, most of the bottle is water, but those little microbes they've bred kick some serious ass even diluted to a couple %. I'll never buy it because I think knf has it already nailed with imo's, but I digress, Mammoth P may actually be one of those bottled products "worth" the cost if it suites you. I was asking their reps a bunch of questions and they answered honestly, I would venture to say (I don't have the tech to scientifically verify their claims). For the free sample they sent me two of the sample bottles and one of their 250ml bottles, lmao way more than I'll use indoors before the microbes die off (or fall so low in numbers that the effects are unnoticeable, etc) in the 6 or so months that they list it takes for them to do so. I had a couple tester plants that I decided to test it out with and in the 30 days of bloom that I allowed them to go before I culled them for intersex traits they reallllly swelled, more so than my previous 3 runs with this strain by far, though I'm still skeptical because I've been changing up how I use barley. I'm also using it, mammoth P, in my garden this year, hoping to do a side by side on some sweet banana peppers just to show any possible visual differences. Again I'll (probably) never buy it but it was free and I like using free stuff For science!

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alright man... I am SO damn bored at my shop I took the liberty to look up and study up on ALL those ingredients..
the only thing that I am seeing is that the citrobacter helps assimilate nitrogen. along with azotbacter and azospirillum
past that none of the others say a damn thing, and everything I know about the phosphobacterins indicates that these microbes may not even be the correct type..
Anyways.. just my input, and a product of my boredom.
oh... that cotrobacter freundii can fuck you up too, evidently a bacteria that can make you very sick.
I can list the phosphobacterins
bacillus megaterium var phoshaticum, bacillus circulans, bacillus subtilis,
certain fungi do similar jobs, penicilluim species, aspergillus awamori

I've done side by side same strains nutes everything and the one that had mammoth and considerably larger flowers more yields and nice fall color's .I can vouche for it as well.never paid for it but not sure how expensive it is either. Half a mil per gallon dilution goes a long way

I grabbed the Guanos I was recommended. How many cups per cubic foot? And also picked up some crab meal. What do you recommend quantity wise for that as well? I can't get rice hulls like I would like and was thinking next time I'd get some bio char or something just hard to source that here. But hopefully with what I have I'll be good . also got some worm castings with guaranteed 6-6-6 and micro nutrients for teas. Pretty pumped to give this a shot. Gonna mono crop next run with general organics line vs super soil vs my regular synthetics program. If I van get better quality with similar yields I will stick with super soil.

Getgrowingson said:

I grabbed the Guanos I was recommended. How many cups per cubic foot? And also picked up some crab meal. What do you recommend quantity wise for that as well? I can't get rice hulls like I would like and was thinking next time I'd get some bio char or something just hard to source that here. But hopefully with what I have I'll be good . also got some worm castings with guaranteed 6-6-6 and micro nutrients for teas. Pretty pumped to give this a shot. Gonna mono crop next run with general organics line vs super soil vs my regular synthetics program. If I van get better quality with similar yields I will stick with super soil.

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worm castings @6/6/6?
that's not just worm castings then, that's something else too

greasemonkeymann said:

worm castings @6/6/6?
that's not just worm castings then, that's something else too

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Indeed. Should be 1-0-0!

Damn, Grease, u go hard at work!!!
I wish all mechanics were true herbalists like yourself!

Cotton burr compost from Back to Nature, black kow manure and you need some slow release nitrogen from feather meal or alfalfa meal which is always good. Organic growing is a learning experience. I use small containers and top dress at 4 wks and water with AACT quite often and alfalfa tea if anyone is pale.

greasemonkeymann said:

alright man... I am SO damn bored at my shop I took the liberty to look up and study up on ALL those ingredients..
the only thing that I am seeing is that the citrobacter helps assimilate nitrogen. along with azotbacter and azospirillum
past that none of the others say a damn thing, and everything I know about the phosphobacterins indicates that these microbes may not even be the correct type..
Anyways.. just my input, and a product of my boredom.
oh... that cotrobacter freundii can fuck you up too, evidently a bacteria that can make you very sick.
I can list the phosphobacterins
bacillus megaterium var phoshaticum, bacillus circulans, bacillus subtilis,
certain fungi do similar jobs, penicilluim species, aspergillus awamori

Click to expand...

You're way more informed on micros than I, but you raise the same questions I have. I also wonder what the alfalfa extract is and is it also the main component responsible for what we're seeing or is it simply a food source? I'm lean more towards the first, but idk. We'll see how my garden likes it. I plan on building some 4x4x4 raised tomato beds with coots mix in them, maybe this will help me grow some goliath 10ft maters! Or I'll be wasting my time mostly and just watering with an expensive alfalfa tea haha, either or is fine with me in the end as long as I can grow something

Making your own compost teas to keep your soil happy is about free and throw some alfalfa in with molasses once in a while. Cheap. I use peat from my own bog garden and forest floor stuff from the backyard. $15 air pump and 5 gal pail=magic! Had this aquarium pump for 7 years.