MostlyCrazy
New Member
Veg 60-70% and flower 45% or less.
first grow hydro
- Thread starter wmemae
- Start date
MostlyCrazy
New Member
I think in my tube I will not top and just let them be what they want to be with a little fimming thrown in for canopy management. My Sannie Jack is supposed to have these huge top colas and I want to see if i can grow one.
Sounds like you have the set-up tuned in!
When I'm in my room and the 250, 400 and the cfl's are blazing my transition lenses go black! LOL!
Sounds like you have the set-up tuned in!
When I'm in my room and the 250, 400 and the cfl's are blazing my transition lenses go black! LOL!
wmemae
Well-Known Member
thats agood way to check the lumens
wmemae
Well-Known Member
well the plants are healthy and looking good . new veg growth are starting to show. . the roots are growing and are bright white . no algea in the rez what so ever . water temp is 68F . the veg room is 85F.with both lights on. the hps and that little cfl setup. I put a humidafier in the veg room, to raise the humidaty couse of the heat is bringing the humidaty down to 30% . I am surprized those cutting survived . couse of the way they looked.they were bad.
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MostlyCrazy
New Member
Yes, the plants will survive! I'm struggling with two strains and two start dates with one res no nute problems. Some have decent 2nd nods and others are working on their second set of leaves. Broke down and added 5ml total of micro today because it also is high in N. I've been foliar feeding but one time I guess it was too hot and it burned them a bit so I'm going with a feed, water,water schedule. Temp is good at 71 and with the humidifier and the door closed the humidity hangs in the upper 50's - 60
wmemae
Well-Known Member
here is an update with pics.
the veg room ,
i put a vaccum hose to the humidifier so it can blw next to the plants and it works great. the ph is stable and the ec is at 1.0. the temp of the room is at 83 and the temp of the nutes is 69. not bad. the leaves are looking retarted though. I think it's from all the stress and all the cutting . I'll wait and see the new growth.
the flowering room,
I see trichoms on the leaves growing, wtf I just put them in the flowering room. they are growing though. I added water to the rez and adjusted the ph, the ec is at 1.2 , the temp of the room is 73 and the temp of the rez is 67.
all inputs are welcome
the veg room ,
i put a vaccum hose to the humidifier so it can blw next to the plants and it works great. the ph is stable and the ec is at 1.0. the temp of the room is at 83 and the temp of the nutes is 69. not bad. the leaves are looking retarted though. I think it's from all the stress and all the cutting . I'll wait and see the new growth.
the flowering room,
I see trichoms on the leaves growing, wtf I just put them in the flowering room. they are growing though. I added water to the rez and adjusted the ph, the ec is at 1.2 , the temp of the room is 73 and the temp of the rez is 67.
all inputs are welcome
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MostlyCrazy
New Member
Added nutes to mine since I finally got to node two. Think I'm going to ditch the sure to grow and put them in hydrotron. I think it keeps too much water on the roots so they don;t need to start looking.
Severe cutting cn slow them down some times.
Trichs? Wow, that's different. Might me a particularly resinous strain.
Severe cutting cn slow them down some times.
Trichs? Wow, that's different. Might me a particularly resinous strain.
wmemae
Well-Known Member
that clone is from the plant that flowered in 24/0 photo period . can you tell me why the leaves are growing like that. this is a freak plant but I love it . I dont care about leaves I want those flowers .
MostlyCrazy
New Member
Look like this to me.
Potassium (K)
Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the
tugor pressure of it's cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce yield and quality.
Potassium deficiency:
Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions
(dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken, the plant may also stretch. The plant will become susceptible to disease and toxicity. In addition to appearing to look like iron deficiency, the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Figure 13
Figure 14 Found it in the faq - Plant problem link here at RIU. What are you feeding it?
Potassium (K)
Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the
tugor pressure of it's cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce yield and quality.
Potassium deficiency:
Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions
(dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken, the plant may also stretch. The plant will become susceptible to disease and toxicity. In addition to appearing to look like iron deficiency, the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Figure 13
Figure 14 Found it in the faq - Plant problem link here at RIU. What are you feeding it?
wmemae
Well-Known Member
are you saying that the problem with my plants .I was refering to the new leaf growth being rounded not rigedLook like this to me.
Potassium (K)
Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the
tugor pressure of it's cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce yield and quality.
Potassium deficiency:
Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions
(dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken, the plant may also stretch. The plant will become susceptible to disease and toxicity. In addition to appearing to look like iron deficiency, the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Figure 13
Figure 14 Found it in the faq - Plant problem link here at RIU. What are you feeding it?
MostlyCrazy
New Member
Yes, it looks like some of the leves on picture 4 and 5 show signs of a problem with K uptake. The rounded leaves are just different pheno expressing themselves. I have one pandora's box that is grwing all weird. Rounded and tucked leaves. I don't think it's going to make it but it's alive so I'll see.
wmemae
Well-Known Member
oh ok . as far as the color of the leaves is concerned that started befor I transplanted tem into the post when they wer still rooting. straight water no nutes . so I am not worried about that. I will keep an eye on the new growths color. and wtf is a pheno?? lol. I will look that up also,or try.
wmemae
Well-Known Member
well after missing a day of checkind on the girls they seem to be doing fine . I pinched a few of the plants in the flowering room , couse 3 main stalks were growing on them straight up. so it was going to be too bushuy for it's own good . a little bending should be good for the light to get in there. do you think I should keep pinching after all the stress this plant has been in, they are clones of that freak plant you know. here are pics tell me what you think . I got like 5 himidafires from the goodwill for 3 bucks a piece. I got them for it's ultrasonic element, so I can make some fogoponic posts to sell on ebay, for some xtra cash. that willgo back in the grow room. I will build one and post pics and I will need you guys help on seting a price . the cheaper I can make them the cheaper I will sell them. lol. times are rough, job cutting back hours.
anyway here are the pics . tell me what you think
anyway here are the pics . tell me what you think
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MostlyCrazy
New Member
I think you should leave them alone and bend them for height and width control. Now the yellowing makes sense, never mind! LOL!
I have a mystic cloner I bought used for $30 but had to add a new fogger since the one included was underpowered and touchy. The new fogger was $25 shipped so you can work from that price.
I have a mystic cloner I bought used for $30 but had to add a new fogger since the one included was underpowered and touchy. The new fogger was $25 shipped so you can work from that price.
wmemae
Well-Known Member
here are more pics. the plants are very happy and so am I . the ones in the flowering room are smell dank as fuck and when I tried to spread the branches apart my fingers started sticking togather
, a first for me. the ph and ppm are dead on, and dont need any ajusting.in a week I will move the cfl lights from the flowering room in the veg room and I will move the other 400w from the veg room to the flowering room. so 800w for flower. and 800w for veg. but cfl for veg and hps for flower. what do u think about that?, I need ur opinion on this one , I am pressed for bud
, a first for me. the ph and ppm are dead on, and dont need any ajusting.in a week I will move the cfl lights from the flowering room in the veg room and I will move the other 400w from the veg room to the flowering room. so 800w for flower. and 800w for veg. but cfl for veg and hps for flower. what do u think about that?, I need ur opinion on this one , I am pressed for budAttachments
MostlyCrazy
New Member
I agree who heartedly. I'm vegging with cfl's and will put the power to them with a 250 hps over my bubbleponics and a 400 nps over my tubes.
On the tubes, so far so good. Have 8 42watt cfl 5000k's hanging over them and they seem to like it. Have 4 in each tube that survived the spongepot experiment. Move them the the center 4 spots on the tube and all have a nice root structure starting for their age. I'm a little over 2 weeks into veg and on their 4th node. Have the tubes tipped to dump any standing water. PH is steady around 6.0 and ppm is in the 200-300 range. I'll be upping the ppm to around 500 on the next res change. Doing this one extra slow as I learn.
On the tubes, so far so good. Have 8 42watt cfl 5000k's hanging over them and they seem to like it. Have 4 in each tube that survived the spongepot experiment. Move them the the center 4 spots on the tube and all have a nice root structure starting for their age. I'm a little over 2 weeks into veg and on their 4th node. Have the tubes tipped to dump any standing water. PH is steady around 6.0 and ppm is in the 200-300 range. I'll be upping the ppm to around 500 on the next res change. Doing this one extra slow as I learn.
wmemae
Well-Known Member
sound like they're coming along real good.
so the stg inserts didnt work soo well. I will start ordering things for my diy cap ebb and grow buckets real soon, and I will just use rw and hydroton, simple. washing hydroton isnt a big problem for me fill the tub up and add the bleach , agitate the water with the hydroton and let the roots sink to the bottom, whatever is still on there , well thats why I've been blessed with fingers,lol.,
wmemae
Well-Known Member
well here is an update . the girls are lovly. they look very happy,and green, no burns whatsoever, and the roots almost pearl white, I sow a little streaching in the veg room so I lowerd the hps a little.I also soaked some rw and hydroton a couple of days ago and started germinating some durbin poisen seeds 7 in all. 20 hours after soaking ( when they sank to the bottom of the cup , I put them in gthe rw, I use straight water with a splash of 3% h2o2 for the soaking. the ph in both rooms are 5.83. and never moved a tad.that makes me very happy.the plants might get crowded in the flowering room. so I might put the screen back in , but I'll wait and see first..oh ya I meant to give you guys this link befor that I found to be very helpfull , hope it is for you also. comment on the pics and let me know if I need to do anything,or missing anything, peace