Experienced Grower Beginning DWC - Blue Dream

HappyMan420

Well-Known Member
I have a journal posted with semi-daily updates listed below. I am looking for some useful tips on how and when to change my buckets. I have a few issues to overcome.

1. Carpet - Everywhere!

2. Small Tents - I want to be able to trellis my growth, but how do I keep my plants in place and lift up buckets to change underneath?

3. Do I really have to do it every two weeks or can I get away with it when I start to see the plant vigor dwindle, and try and catch it just before?

4. Is it o.k. for the roots to sit out of water for a bit while i change the nutes? (talking 20-30 mins)

5. Where exactly am I trying to keep my water levels at? Just within reach of the roots, just out of reach or generally 3-4 inches from the top?

6. Do I just add the sledgehammer to the nutes, switch it out into its own bucket, or what? How does that work?
 

firsttimeARE

Well-Known Member
Sledgehammer?

Water level I keep half inch belownetpot. The breaking bubbles keeps the medium wet. I start my seeds aero tho so all my roots are exposed come transfer so i snake the roots through the slots on the netpot lid then fill thepot.

I use 6" netpot lids. Smaller ones are better for starting off. Too bigand the plant will have a hard time getting water since it will have more medium around it for the water to make its way in. I dont recommend bigger than 6" unless youre uaing waterfarms.

Roots will survive being dry whileyou change the res.

Third question is confusing.

I made a screen/trellis out of 1/2" cpvc and fittings. Check my dwc to perpetual thread I detailed my screen. It attaches to the netpot lid with nylon bolts and nuts. Simple byt effective design. This will allow you to take the whole plant and lid and move it to an empty bucket while you make a new reservoir. Or will allow you to top off an existing reservoir.

I was going to use 50lb test fishing line to make the grid but thought about abrasions and little tiny strands of plastic getting on the buds. I used twine instead.

I didnt use glue on the cpvc so it can be broken down entirely.
 

firsttimeARE

Well-Known Member
is there a link to a GOOD video of someone changing their DWC?
Its pretty easy.

I drill holes in the topa of the lids to put air tubing in for the airstones.

So you take the lid with the plant in it and hoses dangling and put into an empty bucket.

Take old bucket empty out whats remaining fill it up to the desired water level. I always fill up to bottom of netpot and leave half inch air gap.

Then take the lid and put it in the new res.

Then i add nutrients and ph the water.

All done.
 
Hi Happy,

1) & 2)
- get a small pond pump to empty water to save fully moving plants.
- attach level tubes to dwc bucket but leave top end open, bend tube, water flows out.
- use elastic scrog screen, similar to bungee cords, this way you have enough give to access bucket... have a think about pump and hose.

3) in little buckets like that, I would change weekly mate. As they drink water, the concentration of nutes might increase. Keep it at 400-600ppm (look for ec conversion).

4) they love it. In those buckets you have I would empty with a pump once they get bigger and fill with a watering can, or the same pump reversed.

5) I go for about an inch below net pot once plant is established. In flower it is sometimes around 6inch as they drink.

I think you will find this vid series useful buddy- http://hygrohybrid.com/videos/led-vs-hps-day-20/

Good luck!
 
I think if you get that down to 500ppm for a week, and get that LED to 6-10 inches above plant you will see an explosion.

How are your roots looking? White Noodles, smell fresh?
 

HappyMan420

Well-Known Member
Everything seems great. I like to keep the light at it's final position the whole time. I find the plants respond a little better than an adjusted light. The light gets stronger the more it grows, and I personally believe that it encourages better flower set. As a general rule, 50 watts of HID lighting per 2 x 2 space is adequate, and I have 75 (150/2), so I don't think the plants need anymore light than they are getting. Come two more weeks, the plants will be in the perfect range to start flower. I'm looking to yield an average of 2 oz. per plant, making one pound in 90-100 days on less than 200 watts total.

-HM420
 
everything seems great. I like to keep the light at it's final position the whole time. I find the plants respond a little better than an adjusted light. The light gets stronger the more it grows, and I personally believe that it encourages better flower set.
Fair enough mate. I'm a believer in the ol' every foot the light is from the tops, you can half the amount of lumins hitting.
Since they run cool, you could go super close and make the most of your time and electricity but I respect your method.

I have added a 15watt, 'ebay led board' to a hps grow's under canopy recently and I am loving the addition to the spectrum, and it eliminates my focus on the crap at the bottom so I can enjoy the tops. Even if the wattage isn't worth it in the end. Its pretty as hell.
 

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Vumar

Well-Known Member
Sledgehammer?

Water level I keep half inch belownetpot. The breaking bubbles keeps the medium wet. I start my seeds aero tho so all my roots are exposed come transfer so i snake the roots through the slots on the netpot lid then fill thepot.

I use 6" netpot lids. Smaller ones are better for starting off. Too bigand the plant will have a hard time getting water since it will have more medium around it for the water to make its way in. I dont recommend bigger than 6" unless youre uaing waterfarms.

Roots will survive being dry whileyou change the res.

Third question is confusing.

I made a screen/trellis out of 1/2" cpvc and fittings. Check my dwc to perpetual thread I detailed my screen. It attaches to the netpot lid with nylon bolts and nuts. Simple byt effective design. This will allow you to take the whole plant and lid and move it to an empty bucket while you make a new reservoir. Or will allow you to top off an existing reservoir.

I was going to use 50lb test fishing line to make the grid but thought about abrasions and little tiny strands of plastic getting on the buds. I used twine instead.

I didnt use glue on the cpvc so it can be broken down entirely.

@firsttimeARE
I recently dropped some cash to make your (almost) exact CPVC scrog model. How did you end up tying it all together? the 4x4 part. I can see the pre-drills... just not the method or design lol. Thread jack sorrrry. lol @ cpvc bags
 

Attachments

HappyMan420

Well-Known Member
@firsttimeARE
I recently dropped some cash to make your (almost) exact CPVC scrog model. How did you end up tying it all together? the 4x4 part. I can see the pre-drills... just not the method or design lol. Thread jack sorrrry. lol @ cpvc bags
On what page is the trellis? I was looking for it, but must have missed it or got distracted
 

twistedwords

Well-Known Member
Forget DWC and just go straight to RDWC. All you need is a controller bucket, reservoir and 1/2 inch irrigation tube to connect the buckets. Oh and you will need a pond pump to recirculate the water and build in a release vale with tubing for quick removal of water and nutrients with the pump. The traditional DWC way is a pain in the ass.
 

HappyMan420

Well-Known Member
Forget DWC and just go straight to RDWC. All you need is a controller bucket, reservoir and 1/2 inch irrigation tube to connect the buckets. Oh and you will need a pond pump to recirculate the water and build in a release vale with tubing for quick removal of water and nutrients with the pump. The traditional DWC way is a pain in the ass.
Gee, thanks. Let me just buy a whole new setup. Assjack
-HM420
 
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