Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions

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Native Humboldt

Well-Known Member
The tag says the ac unit requires a min ckt size of 37.8 amps. An amp draw of 37.8 amps would require a wire size of #8 up to 75 feet from the source (breaker). If the ac unit is over 75 feet from the source you must upsize the wire to a #6. You will also need a double ckt breaker with a 40 amp over load rating. According to the tag you could use a 60 amp supply max, but the cost t run a 60 amp ckt and larger wire would be considerable higher and unnecessary.
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
Put a disconnect by condenser and feed it with a double pole 60a HACR type breaker.

Use a #6 whip to go from disconnect to condenser.

And don't make holes in top of the weather proof disconnect housing unless using a meyers hub.

Peace.
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
Native Humboldt said:
The tag says the ac unit requires a min ckt size of 37.8 amps. An amp draw of 37.8 amps would require a wire size of #8 up to 75 feet from the source (breaker). If the ac unit is over 75 feet from the source you must upsize the wire to a #6. You will also need a double ckt breaker with a 40 amp over load rating. According to the tag you could use a 60 amp supply max, but the cost t run a 60 amp ckt and larger wire would be considerable higher and unnecessary.
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He needs a 60 amp OCPD and thus #6 is really a minimum. 37.8a will trip a 40.
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
If he undersizes the breaker from a 60 it will likely trip when compressor starts.

I am a licensed master electrician, I have done hundreds of feeds for AC condensers.
 
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Native Humboldt

Well-Known Member
For sure its always better to run a max size ckt but sometimes its not an option with a normal residential breaker 100 amp service. Most of the time ac units don't run at there max load in this case 37.8 amps unless the condenser is plugged or there is a problem with the compressor. If I were installing this unit for a customer I would for sure run a max ckt size but if it were for myself I would feel fine running a min supply as long as it was rated above the max amp draw of the ac unit manufacture tag.
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
Native Humboldt said:
For sure its always better to run a max size ckt but sometimes its not an option with a normal residential breaker 100 amp service. Most of the time ac units don't run at there max load in this case 37.8 amps unless the condenser is plugged or there is a problem with the compressor. If I were installing this unit for a customer I would for sure run a max ckt size but if it were for myself I would feel fine running a min supply as long as it was rated above the max amp draw of the ac unit manufacture tag.
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Won't pass inspection. Sure wouldn't do a hot start w/o tripping a 50. Gotta understand your electrical a little better when it comes to motor loads (ie: compresser).

Are you licensed?
 
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Native Humboldt

Well-Known Member
I'm an industrial refrigeration engineer not a lot of experience in residential electrical. I play with anhydrous ammonia and industrial cooling systems. Your probably right sounds like you have done a few!
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
Ahh an engineer. See there is the difference in our thinking.

I think based on NEC compliance.

You think based on electrical theory.

Now IF you design an approved device that has an engineer sign off on a code conflict then an inspector can ignore code and go by your design specifications. We deal with this a lot on chillers.
 
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Pimpernickel

Well-Known Member
I need to extend my lamp cords 20' and all of the supply houses are out of lamp cord extensions. The plan is to severe the lamp cord and insert a length of wire in the middle, reconnected within a Jbox on each end. So Lamp socket>Jbox<wire>Jbox<end of lamp cord>plug into ballast.

I see that the lamp cords are only 16awg so 14/3 romex should be sufficient right?
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
Pimpernickel said:
I need to extend my lamp cords 20' and all of the supply houses are out of lamp cord extensions. The plan is to severe the lamp cord and insert a length of wire in the middle, reconnected within a Jbox on each end. So Lamp socket>Jbox<wire>Jbox<end of lamp cord>plug into ballast.

I see that the lamp cords are only 16awg so 14/3 romex should be sufficient right?
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This will work electrically speaking but you only need 14-2 (ground isn't included in the -2 but it's there) I would recommend using some SJOOW cord.
 
JackHererSki

JackHererSki

Well-Known Member
This isn't a wiring question but, if I have (1) 1000w light and I run it for 1hr that = 1kwh correct. Which 10 hrs a day =300kwh a month?

I know I sound stupid but I want to estimate my electric bill for upgrades

12-12 CFL 400w
 
Remi1

Remi1

Member
Can I climb in the attic & "tap" into the 240v, 30 amp line that runs to my stove & run a new line off that to a bedroom to a light controller to power 4 1k watt lights? I haven't used my stove in over a year since I moved in & don't plan on it however if there's a way to do it by not disconnecting the stove that would be great.
It's a rental house so I don't want to mess with the outside box at all. Thanks in advance
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
It can be done but it's not the route I would advise you take.

Why not make a heavy duty plug in play extension that you can plug into the range receptacle and feed your controller?

Use a compatible plug end and some 10-2 SOOJW with a 4" metal boxed receptacle to plug your controller into.
 
Remi1

Remi1

Member
I thought about that but wasn't sure for some reason if it would be to long, aprox. 50'-60'. Thanks for the parts to do it. If that's all I need then that's the easy route. Thanks.
 
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