Epsoma Tomato-tone 3-4-6

Smidge34

Smidge34

Well-Known Member
greasemonkeymann said:
you guys are too kind. I appreciate the kind words and respect.
So, it's not really that we look down on the slaughterhouse stuff, it's not like a high-horse thing or a veganics (annoying)
My number one complaint is bonemeal can potentially have dangerous prions in it, and those can kill you, deader than hell... Madcow, spongiform encelapathy (know I spelled that wrong)
google CFE or madcow disease.
My other complaint is that blood meal is sorta hard to control, it is in fact a fairly good source of nitrogen, but it breaks down and becomes available to the plant SUPER fast, almost to the degree of it all being soluble, which it is, and isn't (I know, it's confusing), just hard to slow down the "dumping" of nitrogen to the plant, a 15-0-0 is a strong nutrient..
in my experience it's a good nutrient if you can't source another nitrogen input, such as alfalfa meal, neem meal, fish meal, even high nitrogen guanos, and manures (alpaca and rabbit are the best, FYI)
personally I use my compost as my nutrient source, I amend it as the leaves breakdown, with high nitrogen inputs to accelerate the thermophillic composting, alfalfa meal, fish meal, grass clippings, those work great for that, but I also sprinkle fish bone meal, neem meal, kelp meal (great slow release of phosphorus, and a good replacement for bovine bone-meal)
sprinkle minerals of varying bio-availability, such as azomite, and rock phosphates for quick release, and greensand/langbeinite for long term, as I re-use my soil.
I LOVE slow release high nitrogen amendments, used to LOVE feather meal for that reason, it breaks down soooo slowly, but feather meal is loaded with toxic shit now)
key is with dry amendments is you want to use slow, medium and fast release amendments.
for example, fish meal, alfalfa meal, blood meal, are relatively fast to be useful, guanos, and manures a lil slower, and hair/beard, clippings/dog clippings are the slowest.
I mix all my nutrients up in my compost and by the time the compost is ready, the nutrients have long cycled.
pure humus and cycled nutrients, add aeration and plant, easy as hell, and yet not.
no aging needed because it's already been doing that.
I feel it's important to add that nitrogen is your friend, people that use different nutrients (for diff stages) for their plants, do so, unnecessarily. In other words, mixing a nutrient tea of like just phosphurus and potassium for flowering is hydro-logic.
Key to good and easy growind success, is to get a reaaaally good source of humus.
Really.
Good compost or a good castings source.
Preferably both, I've done runs with JUST ewc, and I had better results with a mix of compost AND castings.
Not sure why, but I didn't argue with the plant.
Click to expand...
Some good stuff tossed out there man, thanks! I'd love to pick your brain on the compost pile, my newest endeavor and believe I will via pm.
 
jackAmo

jackAmo

Active Member
Smidge34 said:
Yep, the basic mix I've seen the most is one part humus, such as castings, one part peat or coco and one part aeration material such as perlite or lava rocks for example. When using peat, it's advisable to use a cup of lime per cubic ft or 7.5 gallons of mix. I use that base for my seedlings and they stay nice and green. Add 3 cups of amendments per cu ft to the base, such as kelp meal, alfalfa meal, neem meal, crab meal, fish meal, soft rock phosphate, etc, as well as 3-4 cups of rock dusts, such as granite or greensand. The key is to let it cook a month or two, or at least a couple of weeks. There's a wealth of info here on building a killer soil. Good luck.
Click to expand...
This is the basic soil recipe I use. It is very versatile and forgiving.
When recycling the soil, add 1-1.5 cups of amendments and 1/2 cup of lime per cubic foot. Also add additional humus and aeration material.

The more times the soil is recycled the better it gets.
 
Last edited:
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
jackAmo said:
This is the basic soil recipe I use. It is very versatile and forgiving.
When recycling the soil, add 1-1.5 cups of amendments and 1/2 cup of lime per gallon. Also add additional humus and aeration material.

The more times the soil is recycled the better it gets.
Click to expand...
that's a lot of lime there man.
i'd hesitate to do that, but if it works for you, can't knock that.
 
I

ImAMotionPicture

Member
greasemonkeymann said:
you guys are too kind. I appreciate the kind words and respect.
So, it's not really that we look down on the slaughterhouse stuff, it's not like a high-horse thing or a veganics (annoying)
My number one complaint is bonemeal can potentially have dangerous prions in it, and those can kill you, deader than hell... Madcow, spongiform encelapathy (know I spelled that wrong)
google CFE or madcow disease.
My other complaint is that blood meal is sorta hard to control, it is in fact a fairly good source of nitrogen, but it breaks down and becomes available to the plant SUPER fast, almost to the degree of it all being soluble, which it is, and isn't (I know, it's confusing), just hard to slow down the "dumping" of nitrogen to the plant, a 15-0-0 is a strong nutrient..
in my experience it's a good nutrient if you can't source another nitrogen input, such as alfalfa meal, neem meal, fish meal, even high nitrogen guanos, and manures (alpaca and rabbit are the best, FYI)
personally I use my compost as my nutrient source, I amend it as the leaves breakdown, with high nitrogen inputs to accelerate the thermophillic composting, alfalfa meal, fish meal, grass clippings, those work great for that, but I also sprinkle fish bone meal(great slow release of phosphorus, and a good replacement for bovine bone-meal) also kelp meal, crab meal, egg shells, oyster flour and shells (I like the shells, I use the chicken feed ones)
sprinkle minerals of varying bio-availability, such as azomite, and rock phosphates for quick release, and greensand/langbeinite for long term, as I re-use my soil.
I LOVE slow release high nitrogen amendments, used to LOVE feather meal for that reason, it breaks down soooo slowly, but feather meal is loaded with toxic shit now)
key is with dry amendments is you want to use slow, medium and fast release amendments.
for example, fish meal, alfalfa meal, blood meal, are relatively fast to be useful, guanos, and manures a lil slower, and hair/beard, clippings/dog clippings are the slowest.
I mix all my nutrients up in my compost and by the time the compost is ready, the nutrients have long cycled.
pure humus and cycled nutrients, add aeration and plant, easy as hell, and yet not.
no aging needed because it's already been doing that.
I feel it's important to add that nitrogen is your friend, people that use different nutrients (for diff stages) for their plants, do so, unnecessarily. In other words, mixing a nutrient tea of like just phosphurus and potassium for flowering is hydro-logic.
Key to good and easy growind success, is to get a reaaaally good source of humus.
Really.
Good compost or a good castings source.
Preferably both, I've done runs with JUST ewc, and I had better results with a mix of compost AND castings.
Not sure why, but I didn't argue with the plant.
Click to expand...
These organic mixes required patience... Can you throw a good simple one up
 
jackAmo

jackAmo

Active Member
ImAMotionPicture said:
These organic mixes required patience... Can you throw a good simple one up
Click to expand...
The simplest one I know is as follows:
1 part Pro-mix
1 part Humus (Compost, EWC, etc)
1 part Aeration (Perlite, Vermiculite, etc)
Add:
4 Cups Rock Dust per cubic foot
1 Cup Dolomite Lime per cubic foot
1 Cup Dry Organic Fertilizer per cubic foot
1.5 Cups Kelp Meal per cubic foot

This will give you an easy to use organic mix that you can then play around with as you feel comfortable.

I add a few other things to mine, but never go over 3 cups of Nutrients per cubic foot.
 
I

ImAMotionPicture

Member
jackAmo said:
The simplest one I know is as follows:
1 part Pro-mix
1 part Humus (Compost, EWC, etc)
1 part Aeration (Perlite, Vermiculite, etc)
Add:
4 Cups Rock Dust per cubic foot
1 Cup Dolomite Lime per cubic foot
1 Cup Dry Organic Fertilizer per cubic foot
1.5 Cups Kelp Meal per cubic foot

This will give you an easy to use organic mix that you can then play around with as you feel comfortable.

I add a few other things to mine, but never go over 3 cups of Nutrients per cubic foot.
Click to expand...
That sounds pretty simple... Would I water with plain water?
 
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