electrical wiring

Im going to be going from 4-5 kW to 8-10)
. I'm use to running each ballast on separate 15 amp breaker, ac on another breaker and misc fans and pumps on another.

I'd like to upgrade. I'm very knowledgeable regarding the basics.

But what's the best way go achieve this?

I wanted to just run a sub panel off a 100 amp breaker, with 4/3, the sub panel is where I get confused, id like to do 5 20 amp breakers with 12/3. Would 10/3 be safer?

I want to do this the right way... I feel confident in my knowledge and abilities but I know I could learn something here...

Let me know how you all do it...

14 gauge wire for 15 amps
12 gauge wire for 20 amps
10 gauge wire for 30 amps
You should look into a flip box might save you some $. They usually run off either 1-30 or 50 amp circuit, and run all your lights

jayjay777 said:

Im going to be going from 4-5 kW to 8-10)
. I'm use to running each ballast on separate 15 amp breaker, ac on another breaker and misc fans and pumps on another.

I'd like to upgrade. I'm very knowledgeable regarding the basics.

But what's the best way go achieve this?

I wanted to just run a sub panel off a 100 amp breaker, with 4/3, the sub panel is where I get confused, id like to do 5 20 amp breakers with 12/3. Would 10/3 be safer?

I want to do this the right way... I feel confident in my knowledge and abilities but I know I could learn something here...

Let me know how you all do it...

Click to expand...

Sounds like you want to do it the right way, which is nice to see.
Assuming we are talking about 1000w HID, total consumption @ 115 volts per fixture is 8.5 amps, which with 14/ 2 is perfect.(you don't need a 3 wire for the individual circuits, only for the sub-panel feed, which needs a separate grounding conductor) Double that and you get 17 amps, which can work for 12/2 at a short distance (less than 50', because there is not a inductive draw (no motors), but you will be pushing it, so fuck it, do a separate 15 amp circuit @ 14/2 ( saves a LOT of money) per 1000w, which is more than adequate. The 4/3 for a 100 amp feed, unless it is a LONG distance ( over a 100' feet, is over kill and it is harder to deal with as far as securing to structure, bending, and all that shit) So, what I would recommend is 6/3 for the feeder, and a separate 15 Amp circuit per fixture installed, using 14/2, (1-250' roll should be fine) which is MUCH easier to use than 12 gauge wire, and add 1 more 15 amp circuit for fans, etc. If you want a AC, then another circuit is needed. I was an electrician for many years, and I never burned down a house or electrocuted anyone, ( that they could prove, at least). Anyway, what I told you is all that you will need.

I may just go with light movers... Only use like 6 lights...

I would use 14/2 with all 15 which is very safe it seems, probably cheaper also, but if I do 20 amps I can run two lights per breaker right? So theoretically, in the future, I could run 10 lights off this box, if I do 15 amps, I'll be limited to six or seven. How would that work? 6 is 90, 7 is 105? They'll never be near full draw.

It sounds like I should run 100 amp on 4/3, its only about 30 feet, slap on that on plywood, then run 5 20amps to 5 outlets, right next to box, then ballasts go up after that...

But...

How much cheaper and safer is 15 amps on 14/2?

jayjay777 said:

I may just go with light movers... Only use like 6 lights...

I would use 14/2 with all 15 which is very safe it seems, probably cheaper also, but if I do 20 amps I can run two lights per breaker right? So theoretically, in the future, I could run 10 lights off this box, if I do 15 amps, I'll be limited to six or seven. How would that work? 6 is 90, 7 is 105? They'll never be near full draw.

It sounds like I should run 100 amp on 4/3, its only about 30 feet, slap on that on plywood, then run 5 20amps to 5 outlets, right next to box, then ballasts go up after that...

But...

How much cheaper and safer is 15 amps on 14/2?

Click to expand...

Nope dont do 6 on a light mover, go with orginal plan and run 10 lamps. More medicine for patients. Theres people sick out there bro.....

a mongo frog said:

Nope dont do 6 on a light mover, go with orginal plan and run 10 lamps. More medicine for patients. Theres people sick out there bro.....

Click to expand...

LOLOLOLOLOL

Haha,

Your right, I'm gonna call fidelity in the morning, drain all my investments and buy a 10,000 sqft warehouse... Quit my job, I can't wait! And I'm sure I'll get 1.5-2 gpw, that's what my friends told me!!!

jayjay777 said:

Im going to be going from 4-5 kW to 8-10)
. I'm use to running each ballast on separate 15 amp breaker, ac on another breaker and misc fans and pumps on another.

I'd like to upgrade. I'm very knowledgeable regarding the basics.

But what's the best way go achieve this?

I wanted to just run a sub panel off a 100 amp breaker, with 4/3, the sub panel is where I get confused, id like to do 5 20 amp breakers with 12/3. Would 10/3 be safer?

I want to do this the right way... I feel confident in my knowledge and abilities but I know I could learn something here...

Let me know how you all do it...

Click to expand...

I would use 220V for your ballasts and AC (if possible).

I would use a light controller for all your ballasts and wire it 240v so you are using half the amps. That way all you need is one breaker in your sub panel for all your lights. Then just throw in a couple 15-20amps for outlets and one at (what ever size your AC is) for just your ac. Thats how I always wire all my shit up for 8 lights or less. They way I grow (sealed room, air cooled lights) I need more than 100amps to do any more than 8.

100amp sub panel
50amp 240v for light controller
20amp 240v for AC
2X 15amp 120v for outlets (fans, dehums, co2, etc)
^use 20amp outlets if you don't use as much on your light controller^

jayjay777 said:

I may just go with light movers... Only use like 6 lights...

I would use 14/2 with all 15 which is very safe it seems, probably cheaper also, but if I do 20 amps I can run two lights per breaker right? So theoretically, in the future, I could run 10 lights off this box, if I do 15 amps, I'll be limited to six or seven. How would that work? 6 is 90, 7 is 105? They'll never be near full draw.

It sounds like I should run 100 amp on 4/3, its only about 30 feet, slap on that on plywood, then run 5 20amps to 5 outlets, right next to box, then ballasts go up after that...

But...

How much cheaper and safer is 15 amps on 14/2?

Click to expand...

Please really read what I said above, which answers all your questions. In a nutshell, all you need is one 15 amp circuit per 1000w fixture, using 14/2 NM. You do not need 4/3, as a matter of fact, have a good time finding it because no one uses it in the electrical trade that I know of. I don't want to sound mean, but for someone that say's that I am very knowledgeable about the basics of electrical installation, as Trump would say, your fired.

But how's that affect my wiring and breakers, or it doesnt? that's what I don't get...

I understood everything above, I feel even more comfortable wiring it myself.

I guess I'm looking for the industry standard here...how would electric company do it..?

Well it sounds like there's more than one way to skin a cat here...

Um...

Also, should my 30' run be 6/3. Or should I mount sub panel outside and run 14 the long distance..?

jayjay777 said:

Well it sounds like there's more than one way to skin a cat here...

Um...

Also, should my 30' run be 6/3. Or should I mount sub panel outside and run 14 the long distance..?

Click to expand...

I always bring my sub panel right into the room. Using multiple lights its a million times easier to use a light controller, makes no sense to have 8 lights each on its own separate circuit. Thats a lot of extra work for no reason.

Please excuse my unfamiliarity with light controllers, I always thought it was just an emergency shutoff for high temps, but I guess thats a different controller...

Seems like its just two thirty amp breakers with outlets..?

I see those tiny boxes with dials on them, I think there timers?

Also, I was told to use all gfi and arc ground breakers?

And seriously considering a automatic extinguisher, one on my main box, another on my sub...

If you have any tips of info you'd like to share, please. The quality lies in the details...

I own this home, and will be living here forever. Safety is number one from here on out... No more extensions cords and puddles of water. Also placing 2-4" insulation boards on up, there $30-50 each. Ouch...which is another story in itself, going from second story room/attic to basement.I can't wait to have drains, water, electric, cool temps...

I also thought about utilizing my duct work. To heat the house in winter.

Lastly, can I find timers that are tempature operated?

jayjay777 said:

Please excuse my unfamiliarity with light controllers, I always thought it was just an emergency shutoff for high temps, but I guess thats a different controller...

Seems like its just two thirty amp breakers with outlets..?

I see those tiny boxes with dials on them, I think there timers?

Also, I was told to use all gfi and arc ground breakers?

And seriously considering a automatic extinguisher, one on my main box, another on my sub...

If you have any tips of info you'd like to share, please. The quality lies in the details...

Click to expand...

Light controllers you wire to a breaker, and plug all your lights into it. Its just an easy way to plug up multiple lights. Some of them have built in timers, some have trigger cords where you use your own timer. They have relays so you don't have high amperage turning on and off in a timer. Also you can have multiple lights on the same timer. With an 8 light controller for titan controls, they have dual trigger cords so you can off set when the lights come on so you don't get a surge. You can have 4 come on, then 5 minutes later have the other 4 come on.

Love the heat in the winter. Use make up cold air intake. Augment with whole house humidifier. Couple tons of cooling in the summer. Like to aim for 74 degrees and 55%

Red LED readouts are real time readings and control of my environment.

Everyone be safe. Dangerous shit. Best wishes