Electrical questions, post em here!

Maccabee

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I only have one on each of the branches of the circuit.

I looked into the AFCIs and it seems that currently the only kind available on the consumer market is an AFCI breaker. I don't think it's safe to stick one of those in a gang box, and the AFCI outlet receptacles and the plug-in AFCIs seem to still be vapor-ware.

So I suppose for now I'll have to stick to a master on/off with a total load meter and GFCI for all the attached subsystems, and then another switch and meter for each subsystem.

Does hot have to pass *through* the meter, or can I run a short lead from the hot wire to the meter? Looking at the back of thing or a wiring diagram would probably answer my question, but they don't have one online and every search I run for 120 vac panel meter wiring on google gets me info on working on a main panel and a power meter(as in a circuit breaker panel).
 

jimmyspaz

Well-Known Member
Yeah I can't really tell without a schematic either,I would just think that normally to measure load the meter is in the circuit, I do have an old Vacuum Tube Volt Meter with a 120 volt meter but I'm not going to take it apart to see how its wired. Sorry.
 

Maccabee

Well-Known Member
Lord no, don't go disassembling vacuum tube equipment on a lark. Those capacitors can zap ya dead. I'll see what I can figure out.
 

jimmyspaz

Well-Known Member
Lord no, don't go disassembling vacuum tube equipment on a lark. Those capacitors can zap ya dead. I'll see what I can figure out.
And I don't think I want to try to put it back together either. I'm hip tothe caps though,I've worked on guitar amps for years, that's why I have that big old meter.
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
How can I wire a 120 VAC amp meter into a switch box?
I found this:

15A AC PANEL METER | All Electronics Corp - Parts, Supplies and Components
I wouldn't use that meter. That style is a series version. I would MUCH prefer an induction style. Just clamps around the load wire, and reads magnetically the current draw. No wiring involved. You should be able to get a cheap clamp meter and just use that. (just only clamp it around the load wire, not the load and neut/ground.

Extech Instruments: Clamp-on Meters: AC Clamp Meters: EX710

They also have version that will do DC amps, voltage, temp, etc.

(I do like All Electronics, I've used them a lot)
 

jimmyspaz

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't use that meter. That style is a series version. I would MUCH prefer an induction style. Just clamps around the load wire, and reads magnetically the current draw. No wiring involved. You should be able to get a cheap clamp meter and just use that. (just only clamp it around the load wire, not the load and neut/ground.

Extech Instruments: Clamp-on Meters: AC Clamp Meters: EX710

They also have version that will do DC amps, voltage, temp, etc.

(I do like All Electronics, I've used them a lot)
I thought the idea was a series meter wired in inline.
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
I thought the idea was a series meter wired in inline.
Yes, I guess. I'm just saying its kinda a bad idea. The meter goes out, no power getting through. (depending on how it goes out)

Series is more accurate, but the induction is fine for this use.
I also feel the induction is safer. Plus less connections.

And its a 15amp meter. Just get a Kill-a-watt. $30 and gives amps voltage, watts, KWHs, freq, and something else that slips my mind. The Kill-A-Watt is good to 15amps too. And its UL listed.
 

jimmyspaz

Well-Known Member
:peace::peace:BBB Iwould personally agree. I use a clamp meter myself,but I was answering his question about that particular meter installation.:peace::peace:
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
:peace::peace:BBB Iwould personally agree. I use a clamp meter myself,but I was answering his question about that particular meter installation.:peace::peace:
Nothing wrong in telling the better way to do it. He was looking at a $15 surplus meter. (though it would look SO sexy in the pannel)


I still think the killAwatt is the way to go.
 

riproor

Active Member
uhh that would be what I used to wire my room, use 20 amp breakers, and 20 amp rated recepticles. Cost a little more, they can be 'back wired', makes it much easier and better. You would be able to run a 1000 watt on that circuit propely installed. VV


no no no!, for the love of god people, do not use the, quick, backstabs on outlets and switches. take the extra 10 secoands to properly loop the ware and wrap it around the screw. backstabbing with a large load, will lead to heat, which leads to loose connection, archiing, thousanmd degree temperatures, and fire,, not worth it
 

jimmyspaz

Well-Known Member
Yeah I was taught to always attach wires to terminal screws . the backstab is for lazy builders and DYI types I guess. When I wired in my 20 amp circuits I used nylon insulated wire in case of heat buildup too. My elect. inspector Buddies wouldn't pass a residential 20 amp circuit wired any other way.(Not that I had my work inspected,but it would pass). This is life and death stuff here people ,please be careful!
 

*8BaLL*

Active Member
im trying to wire 4 27watt cfl bulbs to one peice of wire i cut off a lamp but my lights will just flash then they dont get enough power and barly light up. is this possible and if so how?
 

jimmyspaz

Well-Known Member
im trying to wire 4 27watt cfl bulbs to one peice of wire i cut off a lamp but my lights will just flash then they dont get enough power and barly light up. is this possible and if so how?
Step away from the wireing you have something seriously wrong.Pics??
 

*8BaLL*

Active Member
i cant post pics till later my camera is out. the seacond i seen what was happening i stopped it. i think im just draining too much power and it cant make it to the last light
 

Maccabee

Well-Known Member
Voltage is a measure of electrical potential--think of it as water pressure in a system of plumbing (an imperfect analogy, but decent for this purpose.) Amps is a measure of current, or the speed with which electricity is moving through a circuit at the specified voltage. When resistance is constant (i.e. all the pipe is the same), amps rise with voltage: the more pressure in the pipe, the faster water moves and so the faster a given volume of water passes through a particular section or the more water passes a given point in a specified time interval.

This usage of power over time is expressed in watts (a watt being the consumption of one joule per second, and the joule representing the amount energy used by a force of one Newton moving in an established direction, to take it all the way back.)

So which is better essentially depends on what you want to know: how much electrical force is available on a circuit? How much current is in use? How much power is being consumed? Different units for different measurements.
 

ACSCorp

Well-Known Member
no no no!, for the love of god people, do not use the, quick, backstabs on outlets and switches. take the extra 10 secoands to properly loop the ware and wrap it around the screw. backstabbing with a large load, will lead to heat, which leads to loose connection, archiing, thousanmd degree temperatures, and fire,, not worth it
Define backstabbing please. All the connections I am doing are 20 amp plugs and sockets with the screws (properly looped on the screw, insulated with liquid electical tape (great sfuff) and then reinsulated with reqular electical tape).

Is backstabbing those plugs with the pins that pierce the insulation and make the connection? I never have used those, they scare me!
 

pterzw

Well-Known Member
Voltage is a measure of electrical potential--think of it as water pressure in a system of plumbing (an imperfect analogy, but decent for this purpose.) Amps is a measure of current, or the speed with which electricity is moving through a circuit at the specified voltage. When resistance is constant (i.e. all the pipe is the same), amps rise with voltage: the more pressure in the pipe, the faster water moves and so the faster a given volume of water passes through a particular section or the more water passes a given point in a specified time interval.

This usage of power over time is expressed in watts (a watt being the consumption of one joule per second, and the joule representing the amount energy used by a force of one Newton moving in an established direction, to take it all the way back.)

So which is better essentially depends on what you want to know: how much electrical force is available on a circuit? How much current is in use? How much power is being consumed? Different units for different measurements.
Wow. Thanks. I get it.
 
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