Hello everyone! Thank you for taking the time to read and respond it really is appreciated. I have 240v power coming in to a 200amp circut box and 5 -30 amp breakers (FOR LIGHTING). 1-30 amp breaker powers 3 outlets and 1-1000 watt ballast plugs to 1 outlet, thus 3 ballasts per 30amp breaker. All my lights power up and run just fine, I wrote this to give you the backround. Here is my dilemma, I have hydrofarm timers- 1 per outlet meaning 1 per ballast, but the timer is 15 amp max load so with 30 amps running to the outlets the timers get over powered and will not work. I have searched for higher load bearing timers but have been unsuccesfull. I know I can build a relay but theres no way all my power cords will reach the relay plugs and I also do not have the extra spaces on my circut box for the extra 15amp breaker(for the timers) that the relay's require. Plus I have allready spent ample time running the elecrtical outlets and do not want to go backwards. Every thing is ran and set up, Im ready to GO after lots of hardwork and the only thing holding me back is this timer situation. I am not new to growing, this is not my first indoor operation, but it is my biggest. My veg room runs on the rest of the spaces but uses 600w ballasts which require less amp's hence smaller breakers so that room is just fine and the timers in there have no hickups. If you have a solution help me PLEASE! In the meantime I will be trying to create a digital timer that can bear 30amps. If I am successfull I hope I make milliions selling them on Ebay....Seriously people thanx.
Elecrical, Timer problems. Please help!
- Thread starter cr250cra1
- Start date
marijuana2176
Member
have you tried a plug n grow timer? they are very good.
I have hydrofarm timers and Art Dne timers but both have a max load of 15 amps. Like I said I can't use anything that has a amperage imput max less than 30 amps. I googled plug and grow timers this is what I got http://www.hydrogalaxy.com/climate-control/day-night-cycle-timer-with-display/?gclid=COaB0o3LjrcCFSU6Qgod4EcAMg. This timer maxes out at 15 amps. Therefore I cannot use it.
infinitalus
Active Member
What you need is a master lighting controller box. Previous research had me fixed on the Titan brand for high voltage / amperage lighting controllers. Specifically for your case, you might like a Titan Helios 3. A 240v box with 4 outlets, built in timer, build in on/off switch. Must be wired to your breaker, and the wiring must be capable of carrying that much juice without starting a fire.
Here is a link with more details on the Helios 3, and a link for the cheapest unit (including shipping cost) that I could find on the web for you. (checked google, ebay, amazon)
Good luck with your project =)
http://www.titancontrols.net/products/lighting/helios-3.aspx
http://www.hydrogalaxy.com/climate-control/atmosphere-environmental-controllers/titan-controls-helios-3-4-light-240-volt-controller-with-timer/?gclid=COmD4OrQjrcCFYyi4Aod0Q8ALg
Here is a link with more details on the Helios 3, and a link for the cheapest unit (including shipping cost) that I could find on the web for you. (checked google, ebay, amazon)
Good luck with your project =)
http://www.titancontrols.net/products/lighting/helios-3.aspx
http://www.hydrogalaxy.com/climate-control/atmosphere-environmental-controllers/titan-controls-helios-3-4-light-240-volt-controller-with-timer/?gclid=COmD4OrQjrcCFYyi4Aod0Q8ALg
contraptionated
New Member
The Hydrofarm timer you speak of is probably rated 15 amps resistive/ 3 amps inductive. Meaning that if this is the same timer I know of ( no picture or description of the "nameplate" rating, but if you read closer on the back of the device or somewhere in the product literature you should find that rating to be just that). They will work for a while at around 9 amps inductive ( An inductive electrical appliance load could be a motor or lighting ballast, for example). The timer you speak of would be almost fully loaded if you used it to directly supply a load of a 250 watt HID. Just use the timer to energize the coil of a 20 amp ( or higher) lighting or motor contactor. With this tried and true method your Hydrofarm timer will only have the burden of a small ( perhaps 30w or less depending on the lighting contactor holding coil) inductive load and the internal contacts of your timer will not suffer from heat stress due to an approximate 300% overloaded circuit.
If you have 3 lights activating all at the same time, you can buy a used White-Westinghouse 3 pole (size 1) motor contactor for around 100 dollars on ebay and just use it with a fresh ( not fried) Hydrofarm timer and a bit of wire, pair of pliers, few wire nuts and your good to go. For wiring tips, look up some motor control diagrams on elec-toolbox dot com.
If you have 3 lights activating all at the same time, you can buy a used White-Westinghouse 3 pole (size 1) motor contactor for around 100 dollars on ebay and just use it with a fresh ( not fried) Hydrofarm timer and a bit of wire, pair of pliers, few wire nuts and your good to go. For wiring tips, look up some motor control diagrams on elec-toolbox dot com.
First of all thanx for your input. I have 1 of these units now mine is made by "sentinel" the difference is the one you showed has it's own timer which eliminates the extra outlet problem,but I would have to spend 1000$ in extension cords and 1000$ on the units seeing how I would need 5 of them. If this is my last resort, I will. I just hope theres a better option! Again thank you!
So would I have to hard wire my timers? Also how many would I need for 15 outlets running 15 ballasts. 1 30amp breaker for 3 outlets. I found 40amp timers but needing 15 of them puts me around 1000$ for timers. I was hoping to not have to spend that much.
Dirty Harry
Well-Known Member
If your a little handy with wiring, go to the local hardware store and ask for an industrial timer for an outside sign. In the USA at Menard's, it was $30 and handles 30 amps. I hooked a four gang outlet box onto the side so I have four timed plugs. If the load is still too much, make another one or two and set the times to match to spread the load out.
So, you are currently running @240v? That would spread the load so if you had three 1Kw lamps on each circuit, you could get away with 20A across each leg, so a timer rated for 20A... each leg would total ~12.5A. Unfortunately, you should never run a circuit over 80% of its rated capacity, which on a 15A circuit, that'd be 12A.
Perhaps I'm misunderstanding something here though.
Have you wired this yourself already?
-spek
Perhaps I'm misunderstanding something here though.
Have you wired this yourself already?
-spek
Dirty Harry
Well-Known Member
I noticed you mention possibly using a lot of extension cords. If your current feed max is 30 amps, EVERY cord needs to be rated for at least that. Same for all power strips. If not, those cords, strips, can fail and/or catch fire before enough over current trips your breaker. A 15 amp cord carrying 30 amps on a 30 amp breaker will burn. Also, the longer the extension cord, the more loss/resistance you will have. Cords should be just enough plus a foot to make connections easier.
If I do understand correctly, then definitely I'd go hard-wired as you'd only need one timer for every three lamps @240V/20A per timer, a bit of 12/3 cabling, and dual-pole 20A breakers for your breaker panel.
EDIT: In fact, if you do run 30A throughout including timers, you could put five 1Kw lamps on a single 240V circuit
...but you'd need to run 10 gauge wiring, which is both costly and a pain in the ass to work with.
-spek
EDIT: In fact, if you do run 30A throughout including timers, you could put five 1Kw lamps on a single 240V circuit
...but you'd need to run 10 gauge wiring, which is both costly and a pain in the ass to work with.-spek
I just want to say that this is *extremely* important and valuable information that most people overlook. For heavy loads (lights), you should at *minimum* run the same gauge of extension that code states for inside the wall... so for 15A, 14/3 wire should be used. For 20A, 12/3 extension etc. For excessively long runs, always go down a gauge (up in physical size). It NEVER hurts to have thicker extension than you need, but you'll burn your house down for certain if you go under.
Years ago, I had a friend who did not heed this advice I gave him when running a large space heater in his outdoor shed from his house. Thankfully only his shed burnt down. His reason? $79 for a proper extension or even the bits for me to run proper conduit and fixed solution was too expensive.
-spek
contraptionated
New Member
What exactly is your lighting schedule like? How many will be on at the same time and how many off? By the way, the international electrical code does not allow a 30 amp circuit ( of less than 600v) to supply a lamp socket unless there is a fuse socket rated to protect the lighting circuit somewhere downstream in the junction box where power is tapped for each individual light. If you tell me exactly how you want it to work, I'll give you the most efficient route. I'm a master electrician.
contraptionated
New Member
A lighting controller is a combination of a timer energizing a contactor. A pre-packaged lighting controller is the result of not having the guts to wire the aforementioned.
contraptionated
New Member
Lets not also forget how a pre-packaged lighting controller costs way , way more.
Hey Spek, Yes I wired everything myself, I have 240 2 phase recirculating @60hz.I have a 200 amp Service box and I used 10-2 Wire. I wired each breaker to an outlet and pigtailed 2 more running them near my ballast plug.So 3 oulets per breaker. I tried 3 ballasts on 20amp breakers first and they kept popping.They are Digital qunatam 1000 watt btw. That's why I upgraded to 30amp breakers and 30amp runs the 3 lights just fine. Every time I plug a timer in to my outlet with 30amp service they fail. My thought is that they are getting too much amperage. They work fine on 20amp service in my other room although they say max 15amp. I am NOT a certified electrician or anything of the sort. My knowledge is minimal in comparison, so I may be missing something. Thanx
Im currently NOT using any exstension cords nor do I want to. I was saying I would have to if I changed to those relay boxes because my ballast plug ins wouldnt reach. As of now I have outlets hard wired near every ballast using 10-2 wire and 30 amp breakers.
This looks Ideal 30bucks a pop could save me alot of green! Not the best kind though, I dont save that. My only concern is how difficult it would be for everything to reach. Thanx alot.