@EastCoastGenetix

Well-Known Member
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(The picture is the soil getting a top dressing for a reset)
I only use my tents for flowering.
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I veg under a 4ft 4 bulb 5000k LED shop light from Amazon. I built a simple and cheap sip planter for vegging plant. It works amazing and I'll also make a post on the planter. But yep this is all the veg room I have. Through planning it's actually just enough. Don't know the length but it's 3' wide.
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I clone aeroponically with either a EZ clone brand 16 or 128 site cloner.

My setup:
-(3) Unbranded 3x3 grow tents from ebay
-(2) HLG QB 96 ELITE V2 paired with a HLG-240-54A
-6" exhaust with a filter and a passive intake
-(2) 6" non-oscillating clip on fans
A ruff guess is with all 3 tents is about 1200 at max draw. But I haven't completely gotten over the learning curve with LED's and especially these QB 96's! I typically run them mid range with success. Anything above and I start have issues with light burning and plant deficiencies. So I'm still getting a hang of them.

I run 3x3 fabric raised beds. In one tent I have a round raised bed. But all three were bought on ebay. They are 67 gal.

Soil mixture: I did let it work for 3 weeks before I started growing in it

60/40 peat moss(home depot)/perlite(local nursery)
I added organic compost when I mixed it.
Also I mixed in Dr. Earth Tomato blend in the Green bag. I just eyeballed handfuls while I was mixing.
Nutrients:
(Base)
I use Dr. Earth Tomato blend for Veg (Green Bag) and for flowering I used Dr Earth Bloom blend(Pink bag)

(Supplements)
I tend to stick with Raw brand single supplements most are organic also. Only a few aren't a raw product and I will talk about it shortly.

I use kelp for less brand Fish hydrolysate for emergency nitrogen fix and it has alot of benefits for increasing sugar level or bricks.

IPM:
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I only added them once and that was after I planted plants into the bed
I also typically use Green Cleaner for my plants in veg and I use it for an emergency if I get a mite problem in the tent where I flower. I just switched to Plant Therapy for my spay because I got a better deal on a 12 oz bottle lol but it's actually better than the last time I used it. I did a side by side comparison of Green Cleaner and Plant Therapy on two of the same clones I got on a trade and I just felt like the Green Cleaner did a better job at a lower concentrated dose.
 

@EastCoastGenetix

Well-Known Member
My water setup :
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(I do a fully soak every 2-3 weeks when I have to refill the sip planters reservoir)
Yep, a simple home based grower setup. No I don't filter the water. I don't p.h or anything like that I treat it like I do my veg and herb garden. They get city water outside and thrive so we're going to do the same inside.
I actually have to keep the water flowing at full tilt boogie when running the pump so I don't drain the wash tub dry. I don't use a wond or sprayer. With my beds constantly staying moist it no problem soaking up the water as I pour it on. The pump is a small Vivosun pump from ebay with a recycled hose with the male end cut off a fitted onto the barbed fitting that came with the pump.
 

@EastCoastGenetix

Well-Known Member
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A picture is better than my description lol
I top dress every three weeks like clockwork. I just grab a handful and give each plant a nice cover, mix, and water. Just that simple. I haven't ran into any kind of deficiencies since using so I never cared to change tbh. If it works it works! The veg is a 4-6-3 and the Bloom is a 3-9-4. With the Bloom I haven't had any problem with deficiencies but I do have a single supplement of Potassium from raw that I do give sparingly and lightly to bring the Potassium levels up if needed.
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This is what use to mix any supplement feeding. Add a little water, add in supplement, fill it up and mix it, drop the pump in and send it lol. Once again I just eye ball a 1/3 rd per bed and keep it moving. I water the beds only once a week and fill the reservoir for the veg plants every 2-3 weeks. So simple!
 

@EastCoastGenetix

Well-Known Member
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Finally the veg setup. So the SIP planter is made from the large concrete mixing tubs from home depot for the reservoir. Then I used styrofoam from when I bought my 55" for support underneath. I just went back to using cotton towels. I tried Capillary Matting because someone on I.G convenience me that it was better than towels. Absolutely wrong! I do wash the towels and change them out when I have to fill the reservoir up but other than that it been working like a gem. They wick just the right amount up so the my plant are moist but never soggy. The white grate is the grape people commonly put over there florescent lighting in the basement. All in all I built 6 for under $60 minus the towels! I only check my veg plants once maybe twice in a cycle when vegging. I shoot for a veg time of 3 weeks but sometimes it can roll over due to space in the flower tent or just not being of size I like for flowering. But the real reason that I'm so attached to my wick planter is because I have taken so garbage looking clones and watched them come back strong without any aid from me. Like the top picture is half of clones for my next round. I had some neglected mom's and wacked them completely for clones. I took quite a few really small cones so I wouldn't waste so many nodes to make larger clones. Plus when I do this I tend to get more tops in the long run. But half of this round didn't exactly go as planned and they took longer to get going after transplant.IMG_20201108_222309.jpg
So here is the other half. I guess these were in a tad bit better condition but after only 2 weeks they look good, damn good knowing what they came from. But I just harvested the the last of the last today (11-8-20) and reset the beds with a top dress(veg nutes)
 

@EastCoastGenetix

Well-Known Member
So now that I have my complete setup so everyone can see what I'm working with let's get down into the theory I have regarding No-Till. I only have one complete cycle with my No-Till beds so I can be wrong about things I am human too!
So basically after reading through so much information about No-Till I came up with a theory. It starts with the soil mix. I have read so many mixes that I think it boils down to a few recipes as a base and the amendments vary from recipe to recipe. I choose a cheap and practical mix. I didn't follow and specific recipe. I used a typical potting mix that I am use to. I make it from scratch since I typically use quite a lot of soil. I used 60/40 ratio of peat moss and perlite. In my experience that is the best ratio for good drainage and if my peat moss ever dries out it won't turn into a brick like peat tends to do. I use the cheap home depot peat moss thats in the Green and White bales. I get perlite for my local garden center because I can get the really large bags cheap. One thing that I just come to grips with now is that, that might be the reason I can't ever totally eliminate spider mites with spraying weekly. If I don't do weekly I do monthly or else I tend to see problems with them. So beware! I been using home depot peat moss for the past almost 3 years so I kind of gotten into a routine with spraying Green Cleaner. My pocket doesn't mind until I add up the cost yearly just for spider mites. Next would be the compost and nutes. The compost I used was just bagged organic compost. I don't use manures or blood meals and I try not to buy products with them in it either. I guess my garden leans heavy on a vegetarian diet lol. I used a single bag in each bed just took jump start the microbiology. I was trying out multiple dry organic fertilizers before I just stuck to Dr. Earth products. I had really good success with the Jobes tomato fertilizer from Walmart but with Dr. Earth, seen the fungal development happen faster and super aggressive unlike any other type fertilizer I have ever seen. I been around growing food crops, herb garden, and cannabis since for ever and I never seen that type of fungal growth ever. So I was happily hooked on Dr. Earth ever since and my flower turn out beautifully and I know it's helping to improve my soil every top dressing. I was sooooo close to sticking with Down to Earth blends but the fungal development with Dr. Earth nudge it out plus it's a little bit cheaper too since its a win win.
I stick with blends so I don't have to order a so many individual amendments. Usual a big company has research into their products. So far Dr. Earth has had me covered. If you don't know all organic fertilizer tends to draw in fungus nats. It's just the nature of the beast.

So back to my first round in my No-Till beds. I planted some directly into the beds and others I just literally just sat on top of the soil. The ones I planted directly in did much better than the ones in the white fabric bags. Some were from seed others were clones. The plants from seed in a bag did better and I think that because they had a tap root and anchored them and allow them to tap into the nutrients in the beds. But from now on I will sex seedling and only plant the females in the beds. What ever make I like I'll leave in the bags and flower them with the females until there close to popping their sacks. From there I'll move them to a stagnant place and collect pollen. Every round I tend to toss around just a little pollen. I just did my first fem project to see. I did Gushers S1, so far I collected 11 seeds so far, so I'm feeling pretty good about it.

So far I don't have any complaints about the No-Till besides that I wish I would've did it sooner. It's a lazy/busy growers dream. Super low maintenance, moderate cost to get going, significantly less time with grow chores.

So even though it went really good I'm going to start making better improvements too. I compost all plant waste directly into the beds. (Fan leaves, sugar leaves, stems, root balls, popcorn bugs, I mean everything) minus the really good stuff bigger than a quarter comes out. Basically it's recycling all the nutrients in the plant that didn't make it into the flowers I choose to keep. So thats what I'm doing now. But I'm going to start adding minerals(DOC BUDS recipe) with the top dressing. I will be adding red wigglers, Canadian, and African worms. I will use the avacado method to get them to multiply faster. I'm personally going to start composting food scraps directly into my beds after I get worms added and multiplying. I'm going to start planting more root crops every other cycle and also cut down on clover to every other cycle. The thing with the clover is that I is a nitrogen fixer but since I veg elsewhere and only flower in the beds it only so much nitrogen I need. Plus with a closed loop system I really don't remove to much nitrogen. When my plants are finished rarely are they Green. So I recycled most of the nitrogen. Plus too much nitrogen delays flowering. I don't know if that implies with No-Till but it's not something I want to find out about. The root crops is to keep my soil from compacting. Plus I won't harvest the root crops there actually food for the worms. Instead of using straw for a mulch I been observing that every time I flatten my cover crop I actually get a nice mat of brown matter from smashing the cover crop when it gets tall. So my theory for that is that if I top dress and add compost before I smash down the cover crop I might be able to form a brown mulch layer on top of it. It's just a theory but I will be testing it out the up coming round. Every round I will also switch out the cover crop mix for a diverse cover. I'm planning on running 16 or 20 clones per bed to record a SOG in a No-Till setup.
 

@EastCoastGenetix

Well-Known Member
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This is the first cover crop. I wouldn't use a mix with peas in it again. The vines from the peas wrap into the buds. It also pulled down on my plant while they filling it and and made quite a few lean. I just won't do it again. I need to find a mix without clover and I'll be set but overall this was a very good cover crop mix. 1# allowed me to seed it pretty dense. It definitely helped with water evaporating severely.
 

vitalsine

Well-Known Member
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This is the first cover crop. I wouldn't use a mix with peas in it again. The vines from the peas wrap into the buds. It also pulled down on my plant while they filling it and and made quite a few lean. I just won't do it again. I need to find a mix without clover and I'll be set but overall this was a very good cover crop mix. 1# allowed me to seed it pretty dense. It definitely helped with water evaporating severely.
Whats wrong with clover? I haven't used any cover crop yet, but I recently filled my 4x4 raised bed in my 5x5 and plan on doing no till. I have the build-a-soil cover crop mix and it is 60% clover. Should I avoid using it?

**EDIT**

I read back up and see why you are moving away from clover. I also will only be flowering in my raised bed so good advice! Thanks for sharing brother!
 

@EastCoastGenetix

Well-Known Member
Whats wrong with clover? I haven't used any cover crop yet, but I recently filled my 4x4 raised bed in my 5x5 and plan on doing no till. I have the build-a-soil cover crop mix and it is 60% clover. Should I avoid using it?

**EDIT**

I read back up and see why you are moving away from clover. I also will only be flowering in my raised bed so good advice! Thanks for sharing brother!
I personally think that the first round or two it wouldn't matter since your trying to build a diverse soil and getting nutrients into your soil but after that I fell like it should be talored accordingly. Since you have the same ideas as me you should focus on nitrogen fixer less than the people who do full cycles in it. With flower you need nitrogen for the transition into flowering and maybe the first 3 weeks of flowering. If you compost all the Green material that is grown from that soil it becomes a close loop. By the third cycle your inputs should be low and definitely by the forth you should be able to do a run with only shade leaves. It's just a theory thought but I'm documenting the results.
 

@EastCoastGenetix

Well-Known Member
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So before I start to drop plants into the bed. I'm going to start adding the next phase of elements. I ordered a pound of red wigglers for my beds. I will try to split them up evenly as best as possible. Then I had a slight spider mites outbreak. Sunday I sprayed every plant and the beds with Plant Therapy. I waited a few days because I don't want to harm any predator mites. I order 5k of the Nature's Good Guys predator mite mix since it's always be great and cleared any bugs I had. I started using predator mites after I had a russet mite breakout about a year ago and between Green Cleaner and the predator mite mix it cleared up the mites super quick.

In a loop cycle I can say I'm actually glad to have Some spider miter. I can keep buying predator mites a few times a year but this time since I'm in beds, it think that they predator will stay around longer and possibly breed and keep the train rolling because it has a good source of food. Spider mites has a high rate of breeding so with me dropping over 1k minimum per bed, I think I can tip the scale in favor of the predator while near going through a outbreak. If the predators clean up the bed and die, I guess I'll just lean more on nematodes for prevention.
 

@EastCoastGenetix

Well-Known Member
I found a nice cover crop mix on Amazon, I'm going to give it a try. I didn't want the peas but every mix had them and I rather have low clover this round. I already know now, I'm going to need a trellis net!Screenshot_20201113-165143.png
 

@EastCoastGenetix

Well-Known Member
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Nature's Good Guys messed up my order but, it turned out to be in my favor for once! I only order 1,500 redworms and 5k triple blend predator mites. But I did get everything but the quantity was wrong lol. I received 300 red wigglers, worm chow, 2k of the triple blend predator mites, 25k of Hypoaspis mites and 15 million of the triple blend nematodes! What a incredible blessings. I called and left them a message to thank them for this mix up and to let them know I appreciate it and them. I always ordered all my IPM from the so..... I'm a loyal customer!
 

@EastCoastGenetix

Well-Known Member
So, with that blessings comes new challenges. I only received 300 red wigglers instead of 1,200. So I could order more but the overnight shipping because of the worms is kinda hard for me to swallow. The shipping is more than the worms. So since it's only 1/3 of the worms I have to learn about getting them to multiply rather quickly. Just so happens yesterday I became obsessed with learning the avacado tech by Blu. I heard of it but never really gave it any thoughts until yesterday. After hours and hours of researching, I understand it to the point, I have confidence in doing it. It's so simple after accepting a new way of thinking . The concert is split a avacado, separate the husk from the meat, mash or puree the meat with amendments and or what ever else you want. Refill the shell with the mash and place it face down. That's it. But your worms will compost the mash and reproduce. When you have a large population of worms your can use cantaloupe, watermelon, pumpkin for the shell essentially. You still do the same process with the fruit meat and mash or puree it with amendments and what not. And refill the shell and place it first down.
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
So, with that blessings comes new challenges. I only received 300 red wigglers instead of 1,200. So I could order more but the overnight shipping because of the worms is kinda hard for me to swallow. The shipping is more than the worms. So since it's only 1/3 of the worms I have to learn about getting them to multiply rather quickly. Just so happens yesterday I became obsessed with learning the avacado tech by Blu. I heard of it but never really gave it any thoughts until yesterday. After hours and hours of researching, I understand it to the point, I have confidence in doing it. It's so simple after accepting a new way of thinking . The concert is split a avacado, separate the husk from the meat, mash or puree the meat with amendments and or what ever else you want. Refill the shell with the mash and place it face down. That's it. But your worms will compost the mash and reproduce. When you have a large population of worms your can use cantaloupe, watermelon, pumpkin for the shell essentially. You still do the same process with the fruit meat and mash or puree it with amendments and what not. And refill the shell and place it first down.
They will devour any soft fruits or veggies. Love the avacado tek and wanna try it. Easy to consume and decompose food sources will help get the population up as fast as possible. Most commercial worms are fed a lot of shredded paper and what not. Dope thread btw keep up the good work; taking notes.
 

kratos015

Well-Known Member
40% perlite in the mix is definitely the best IMO. Unless we have EWC that is of the highest quality, we need 40% perlite because not only will the peat "brick up" on you as you pointed out but this same thing will happen with most composts you see on the market.

I love the Peat from hardware stores, $17 for 3.7cuft that expands to ~7.5cuft. Can't beat it. But are you sure that's where you're getting spider mites from? Spider mites feed off of foliage, so I don't see how they could sustain themselves in peat moss unless there is foliage/plant matter involved. Do you sterilize your grow/equipment after every run?

Amend your soil with Neem/Karanja Meal, and top dress with it weekly. For whatever pests that doesn't kill off, the habanero spray has been tried and true for me. Can be used up to the last 48 hours of flower, will not hurt your plants at all. Only down side is you need to apply it 1-2 times a day.

Dr. Earth is good shit, can't say enough good things about their product. I've only switched to something else because my hardware store has 12lb bags of G&M for $17 and the price can't be beat.

As far as I can tell, you're literally doing everything right and it shows.

Just something to consider about the "excess" nitrogen. This is only an issue if you don't have enough Phosphorus in your soil mix/top dresses.

Think of your soil as a pantry, and your plant as a person. The pantry is full of nitrogen, phosphorus, etc. Just because your pantry is full of nitrogen doesn't mean you'll always eat nitrogen. The nitrogen will be bonded to the peat moss via the cation exchange capacity, and will only be used when the microbes see fit. Unless your plant's roots signal to the microbes it needs nitrogen, it won't get nitrogen unless it is made readily available and not bonded to the peat moss itself.

Hope you keep posting. There aren't enough threads like this on here anymore and I feel like this will be helpful for a lot of people.


I personally think that the first round or two it wouldn't matter since your trying to build a diverse soil and getting nutrients into your soil but after that I fell like it should be talored accordingly. Since you have the same ideas as me you should focus on nitrogen fixer less than the people who do full cycles in it. With flower you need nitrogen for the transition into flowering and maybe the first 3 weeks of flowering. If you compost all the Green material that is grown from that soil it becomes a close loop. By the third cycle your inputs should be low and definitely by the forth you should be able to do a run with only shade leaves. It's just a theory thought but I'm documenting the results.
One must top dress religiously. Composting all of the green material will bring a plethora of life/microbes into the no-till, but it will not provide sufficient nutrition to the plants. Top dressing with amendments is something we must stay on top of consistently throughout every grow in a no-till, and on a weekly basis. You tailor the top dress amendments depending on whether the plant is in veg or flower, but one most stay on top of the top dress or there will be no food in the soil to feed the microbes that populate it.



So, with that blessings comes new challenges. I only received 300 red wigglers instead of 1,200. So I could order more but the overnight shipping because of the worms is kinda hard for me to swallow. The shipping is more than the worms. So since it's only 1/3 of the worms I have to learn about getting them to multiply rather quickly. Just so happens yesterday I became obsessed with learning the avacado tech by Blu. I heard of it but never really gave it any thoughts until yesterday. After hours and hours of researching, I understand it to the point, I have confidence in doing it. It's so simple after accepting a new way of thinking . The concert is split a avacado, separate the husk from the meat, mash or puree the meat with amendments and or what ever else you want. Refill the shell with the mash and place it face down. That's it. But your worms will compost the mash and reproduce. When you have a large population of worms your can use cantaloupe, watermelon, pumpkin for the shell essentially. You still do the same process with the fruit meat and mash or puree it with amendments and what not. And refill the shell and place it first down.
Add OSF to the mix and you'll see even greater results. Worms have gizzards, and as such need grit in order to actually process food. By blending the food up, you eliminate the need for the worms to require grit to actually eat the food. If you do all of what you said above, and then sprinkle Oyster Shell Flour on top of everything that you blend up you'll experience even greater results. Especially if you add Neem/Karanja Meal to the equation. Worms love that shit.
 

GrassBurner

Well-Known Member
I really liked the beneficial insect seed mix from Natures Good Guy, pretty sure it didn't have peas in the mix. I think it was called Uncle Daves seed mix. Ran out of that and just got the cover crop from BAS, we'll see how it goes.
 

@EastCoastGenetix

Well-Known Member
Thank you, I see I'm on the right track a hell of a long way to go but I can see, this has been so informative.

Truly awe inspiring.
I'm pump to post my updated now. Thank you for the kind words. I will definitely make sure I don't hold any information back and I'll keep it updated weekly maybe toss a little info in during the week if my schedule allows it.
 
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