Dynagro is under-rated as fuck

Humidity too low? 35-40

that's low iom......45-50 is better....

IchewDip said:

Humidity too low? 35-40

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NO not at all...People have a real issue with this humidity thing. The moisture is the enemy. More issues are because of high humidity, not low.


Dry conditions like 40% or below will not hurt anything, actually it can speed the process up in the plant causing the uptake of more water and nute. If you keep the wind to a min. and make sure thet don't dry out, you will have more benifet from a dryer room.

My room is currently 20% and everything is growing like a weed!

Good Luck

I seem to get best results 30-40% humidity. If it gets up to like 50% I start getting mold.

So help me pull the trigger on a change.

I am running a flood and drain perpetual grow using 2 4x4 tables under 600HPS bulbs.
I flower straight from clone every 2 weeks.
I use 5x5 pots with an inch of RW Mini cubes ("croutons") on the bottom and straight perlite on top.

I have been growing for about 2 1/2 years but I would totally call myself a new grower and my harvests have been disappointing for a lot of reasons.
Nutrients is the last thing about growing that I haven't educated myself on. Environmental Control, Lighting, Cloning are all now in pretty good shape.
Even the switch to an Al B Fuct style grow matches my personality and physical limitations much better than growing big plants under a 4x4 scrog in an RDWC

Things are starting to show some promise.
I have always struggled with various lockouts and deficiencies that have severely reduced yield. I have usually shrugged this off as a "pH Swing" or a fussy plant that doesn't tolerate high EC.
My choice of nutes was based on price and the recommendation of the grow store.
But it is time to get serious about my nutes.

I think I have been using the wrong nutes and way overfeeding them.
Usually EC in the range of 1900 - 2200 pH 5.6 - 6.1

I have been using Dutch Nutrient Formula Gro and Bloom and some Cal-Max

Gro A
2-0-2

Nitrogen………..........….2%
Soluable Potash…........2%
Calcium……...........…….2%

Gro B
0-1-3

Nitrogen…………..………0%
Available Phosphate..…1%
Soluble Potash………….3%
Magnesium…………….0.5%

Bloom A
3-0-3

Nitrogen……...............…..3%
Potash…...............……….3%
Calcium………...............2.3%

Bloom B
1-0.5-3

Nitrogen………….....…...….1%
Available Phosphate..….0.5%
Soluble Potash………....…3%
Molybdenum………....0.0012%

GROTEK CAL-MAX 2-0-0 (3% Ca, 1% Mg, 0.1% Fe)


Gro in the Veg room and Bloom in the Flowering.

The plants in my tables are at different weeks of flowering so I need a recipe that is not too weak or strong.
150L H20
500ml DNF Gro A/B
100ml Cal-Max
30ml pH down
250ml H202

Was a recipe I was using to give me my target numbers on a fresh rez.
I was up until a few weeks ago also using 15ml of DNF Bloom Fortifier

Nitrogen……………………....0.0%
Available Phosphate…………50.0%
Soluble Potash………………30.0%
Magnesium…………………...0.5%
Derived from: Di-Potassium Phosphate,
Potassium Sulphate
For Best results use DNF Bloom Fortifier 0-50-30.

But discontinued after starting to read this thread https://www.rollitup.org/nutrients/570037-so-you-noobs-hooked-cannabis.html a few weeks ago.
I have also just started to mix a weaker solution with a target EC of 1500-1700. That seems to be helping.

My veg room gives me fewer problems but I really need my moms to produce nice thick strong clones.
I veg my mums in a 4x3 table under 6 4' T5s
My veg room is still "under construction" but in a week or 2 I should be doubling that.

So in what way would a switch to Dyna Gro help my plants? What do I have too much of and too little?
It all looks good to me but will it change much? Because it is not easy to find in Ontario and I am not a fan of shipping across the border.

Thanks for the advice.

Don't go straight to flower from clone. Veg them for about 2 weeks or so. Flip them around 8-12 inches. Seriously, listen to me. I have grown almost identically to that. I used to run 2x600 4x4 tables. I'm going back to it but with 3x600 this time. I would veg the clones for around 2 weeks though. Maybe that is the problem. How big are your clones when you flip them to 12/12? I like to veg them a little bit because they have no root mass if you don't. I also run dyna-gro and only use gro, bloom, protekt, and mag pro. I grow some fire ass bud on only like 1000ppm max. Less is more it seems. I know al b fuct gets great results, but I know a lot of people would suggest vegging for at least a week. I mean when you pot a clone and start vegging they don't seem to even grow vertically at all for like 10 days. I just think 2 weeks is a good min.

Thanks for the reply.
I may certainly look at some veg in the future, certainly poor quality clones have been a lot to do with my results so far.
My veg room is only running at half capacity right now as I am still under construction.
But the last couple of batches have been much better, healthier with more established roots. I can't wait to see how that improves things.
I am not getting them as thick as Al yet but they are getting better.
But my nutes is what I am trying to address now.

Dropping my EC certainly is helping. Your 1000ppm max, is that .5EC or .7EC

Trying to find out if the DG will be that much better than the current nutes I am using. It is a pain to get around here and I want it to be worth it.

Thanks

famine said:

Thanks for the reply.
I may certainly look at some veg in the future, certainly poor quality clones have been a lot to do with my results so far.
My veg room is only running at half capacity right now as I am still under construction.
But the last couple of batches have been much better, healthier with more established roots. I can't wait to see how that improves things.
I am not getting them as thick as Al yet but they are getting better.
But my nutes is what I am trying to address now.

Dropping my EC certainly is helping. Your 1000ppm max, is that .5EC or .7EC

Trying to find out if the DG will be that much better than the current nutes I am using. It is a pain to get around here and I want it to be worth it.

Thanks

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.5 Also pheno selection is the best part. Nothing is going to beat good genes. I'll post a pic of some that I just grew. I could get a lb from this pheno of super lemon haze from a 600 when I get done. I ran these at ~1000ppm for only like a month during flower.


A supply of dyna gro lasts me like a year. Ive been growing full time under 4x600s lately. My dyna only costs like $175 for a YEAR. I think a good tea is important too. I use compost tea like once every 2 weeks at res changes.

Aloha guys. I am using the dyna grow/bloom/protek/mag pro with excellent results so far. I am growing in a promix soiless medium, under a 400w hps. I have started using Liquid Karma (micro nute/bacteria from botani care) , molasses and bloombastic as supplements. No nute burns as of yet, I just follow the dyna chart online, however my question is, should I get a cal mag supplement as well? And has anyone used litmus paper for testing run off or nutrient solution? Just because I use molasses and it gets pretty dark. I just dont want to shell out big bucks for another faulty pen.thanks for any info.

indyboarder57 said:

Aloha guys. I am using the dyna grow/bloom/protek/mag pro with excellent results so far. I am growing in a promix soiless medium, under a 400w hps. I have started using Liquid Karma (micro nute/bacteria from botani care) , molasses and bloombastic as supplements. No nute burns as of yet, I just follow the dyna chart online, however my question is, should I get a cal mag supplement as well? And has anyone used litmus paper for testing run off or nutrient solution? Just because I use molasses and it gets pretty dark. I just dont want to shell out big bucks for another faulty pen.thanks for any info.

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The whole point of using DG is so you don't have to use all that other stuff.

I personally don't think liquid Karma does squat but it shouldn't hurt. Molasses can go back in your kitchen and bloombastic needs to go in the trash. Calmag, DG's bloom and magpro are nice tools but aren't usually needed in promix.

Good luck!

Hey thanks HB! Really appreciate your info, I always take the info the guys from my hydro start give me, I know they are just trying to sell me their most expensive product. I will keep molasses and Bloombastic at bay. Why arent the bloom, calmag, and mag pro needed in a medium like pro mix?
So from my understanding, you just use "Dyna-Grow formula/veg formula" for entire grow? And another quick question, you ever foliar feed or aeroponically feed your roots with Dyna products? If so, what would your dilutions be? Any info on their "NPK rooting solution"?
Cheers to you and your info.

indyboarder57 said:

Hey thanks HB! Really appreciate your info, I always take the info the guys from my hydro start give me, I know they are just trying to sell me their most expensive product. I will keep molasses and Bloombastic at bay.
And another quick question, you ever foliar feed or aeroponically feed your roots with Dyna products? If so, what would your dilutions be? Any info on their "NPK rooting solution"?
Cheers to you and your info.

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Hydro store guys have an incentive to sell you lots of stuff.

Why arent the bloom, calmag, and mag pro needed in a medium like pro mix?

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Bloom doesn't have enough N for promix and magpro and calamg aren't supplying anything that isn't already supplied by your base. That being said, they're nice tools to have in case you need the elements they're supplying. I wouldn't use them unless needed and you shouldn't really find that they're 'needed'.

So from my understanding, you just use "Dyna-Grow formula/veg formula" for entire grow?

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I use protekt and grow (and sometimes I don't even use protekt) from seed to harvest. Below is a pic from a journal I've got going right now. Here's Classic's Chemdog x Alpha Diesel x c99 on grow and protekt only at day 38. Oh, and I don't foliar feed.

Nicely dialed in
RESPECT home brewer

when did you stop using the bloom formula? I've seen some other folks do it, but haven't tried it myself.

hornedfrog2000 said:

when did you stop using the bloom formula? I've seen some other folks do it, but haven't tried it myself.

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I still use 'bloom' in hydro, just not promix. It's been a gradual trial-and-error type process and I just found that dropping 'bloom' altogether gave me better results.

Excellent info HB. Seriously, thank you so much. I have been trial to dial in a reliable set up for awhile, and making the most out of my indoor space is very iseful. I will try not using bloom this time around, so just to be clear, Dyna-Grow has enough P for bloom? Since DG's stuff is pretty concentrated, do you have any Ph problems with pro mix and DG when used together? I have beem thinkibg of adding dolomite just as a Ph buffer. Your thoughts? And my quick two cents on pro tek, excellent additive for heat problems. I live in Hawaii, 2 min from the ocean, so high humidity and temps are just a part of life. My plants definatly cope better and handle heat/high when my dreaded summer months come about.

indyboarder57 said:

Excellent info HB. Seriously, thank you so much. I have been trial to dial in a reliable set up for awhile, and making the most out of my indoor space is very iseful. I will try not using bloom this time around, so just to be clear, Dyna-Grow has enough P for bloom? Since DG's stuff is pretty concentrated, do you have any Ph problems with pro mix and DG when used together? I have beem thinkibg of adding dolomite just as a Ph buffer. Your thoughts? And my quick two cents on pro tek, excellent additive for heat problems. I live in Hawaii, 2 min from the ocean, so high humidity and temps are just a part of life. My plants definatly cope better and handle heat/high when my dreaded summer months come about.

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P is not as important as we're lead to believe.

Word, well shit, saved me some bucks. I just checked around all my local stores, sadly no one has foliage pro. Any recommendations HB on a similar synthetic fert with quality like DG?

indyboarder57 said:

Word, well shit, saved me some bucks. I just checked around all my local stores, sadly no one has foliage pro. Any recommendations HB on a similar synthetic fert with quality like DG?

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You already have DG's grow, right? Then you're good to go.

Hello again Uncle Ricko, or should I say HB..... anywhoo, I have done some research, as I am sure you HB know, but other newbies like myself might find interesting. I just went and took a look at my bag of promix, it is Pro-Mix bx, which is innoculated with mycorrhizae bacteria. In lamens terms, this type of bacteria carries a symbiotic relationship with a root system of a plant. In exchange for the glucose/sugers/carbs the plant provides the mycrorrhize, via the plant's rootsystem, the myocorrizae in turn seek and metabolise (breakdown) various macro and micro nutrient that the plants require. From this effective symbiotic relationship with the plant, the mycorrhizae will start making a large web filaments of what are basically a "soil web" as HB put it, but basically it increases the surface area of your rootball by 10x-100x (shown in studies).
That being said, your rootball is not going to become the size of a VW bug, it's through the microfilaments of the roots of your plants that attach themselves to the mycrozzhizae network, with all these new microfilament/ rootextensions, this is how your rootball size increases. Just as similar to human beings having enough intestinal surface area (via multiple layers of tissue), it would be enough to cover a tennis court. So NOW to the issue of DYNA GRO and IT BEING SYNTHETIC and HOW THIS RELATIONSHIP WORKS WITH MYCORRHIZAE.
Just as HB said, all of the junk additives AN tries to sell, and the countless other marketers try and sell you are basically everything you need from DYNA GRO, via a fully synthetic line. So, how does dyna gro react with mycorrhizae in the Pro mix? Just because the Dyna Gro is synthetic, does not mean the plant will not make use of the mycorrhizae. Like I said, the plant will use it's STORED CELLULAR glucose to feed the micorrhizae via rootfillaments, and the mycrorrhizae will still seek out the macro and micro nutrients to provide the end of the symbiotic bargain.
However, the double edge sword which rounds out this rabble is adding in carbohydrates to your Dyna Gro lineup. After talking with Dyna Gro, Pro-Mix and my local university AG professor (coupled with my horticulture book), the mycorrhizae population effectively increase by adding in an easily water soluable complex carb (unsulphated molasses). To a point of course, there is a poision limit as with anything in life, but even a simple 5mL shot of unsulphated molasses would do the trick. Thus, your adding CARBS/SUGARS for the bacteria, not the plant.
So in conclusion, when using DYNA GRO lineup, in PRO MIX BX w/ Mycorrhizae, expensive carb forumlas like the big "carb" boosters are for increased bud productiion are just a WASTE. By simply adding unsulphated molasses, you effectively do the same thing, and by applying it continusouly in moderate amounts throughout your grow, your mycorrhizae will flourish, increasing your roots surface area (microscopicly) which lets the uptake and metabolism of macro and micro nutrients more effectient = Bigger buds.

Just as our bodies put in carbs/fats/proteins to function, you could spend $10 on a Jamba Smoothie, and pay 10x the price(and get the triple the sugar +lack of natural fiber) as you would for simply eating an apple,fruit, or bannana. Thanks for reading this, not trying to sound like a "know it all", I just love to grow and find this fascinating. Aloha and mahalo
PS-sorry for spelling errors, i am very tired after lots of reading and smoking with my prof.