Drying and Curing HELP

KOA330

Active Member
I just cut down my girls, trimmed them and now they're hanging up. My last lady that I cut down had a grass like smell to it in the end. It smokes good and looks good but does not smell like it should. Is due to me drying it too fast? I hung her up for two or three days, cut off all the buds and put them in a plastic jar. They weren't drying fast enough for me so I took them out of the jar and laid them out on a paper towel over night in a warm room. The next day they were definitely dryer so I put them back in the plastic jar. That night they still weren't dry enough so I laid them out on a paper towel over night in a warm room again. The next morning I put it back in the jar. In the end they smelled like fresh grass. This obviously isn't how i want my buds to smell.

So, with the bud that I just cut down I don't want to make any mistakes. Like I said above I just cut them down, trimmed, now they're hanging up. They've been hanging up for four nights in a cooler room (64 - 68° F) with fans and my exhaust going. They are very airy buds and the outside of them seem to be dry. When should I put them in a jar? How long should I keep them there and how often should I open the jar and let them breathe? I know that people use glass jars not plastic is this crucial? What's the simplest, fastest, cheapest (preferably free), way to dry and cure? I really don't want to mess this up again. Thanx for reading and I'd really appreciate any answers.
 

buster8813

Active Member
Dont rush the drying process, your cure will only be as good as the dry. Dont just wait for the bud to feel dry on the very tips of the outer bud, let it feel dry about 25% in when you squeeze. the stems are also a good indication of when theyre ready for curing. I like to leave a little bit of the stem on so after 3 or 4 days i can cut a little piece off and see how those feel. If you put them in to dry, your cure will suck.. if you put them in to moist, your buds will grow mold. I like to put them in jars after 4 days(3nights) of drying and once a day i take the buds out of the jar, put them on a plate for 15 minutes and then put them back into the jars so that i dont get any mold
 

NietzscheKeen

Well-Known Member
I have very high humidity in my area, so after I dry them for a couple of days like Buster suggested, I put mine in the freezer on a tray and leave them there for a couple of weeks. You must have a frost free freezer though and I put a tub of dry rid in there just in case. I don't think it's actually doing anything... but it's there, lol. I've always had a hard time drying my harvest, but this way seems to work very nicely for me. And incase you're wondering, it's case sublimation. It's the reason ice cubes get smaller over time as they sit in the ice cube tray. Makes for a very slow cure which I hear is ideal.
 
I just cut down my girls, trimmed them and now they're hanging up. My last lady that I cut down had a grass like smell to it in the end. It smokes good and looks good but does not smell like it should. Is due to me drying it too fast? I hung her up for two or three days, cut off all the buds and put them in a plastic jar. They weren't drying fast enough for me so I took them out of the jar and laid them out on a paper towel over night in a warm room. The next day they were definitely dryer so I put them back in the plastic jar. That night they still weren't dry enough so I laid them out on a paper towel over night in a warm room again. The next morning I put it back in the jar. In the end they smelled like fresh grass. This obviously isn't how i want my buds to smell.

So, with the bud that I just cut down I don't want to make any mistakes. Like I said above I just cut them down, trimmed, now they're hanging up. They've been hanging up for four nights in a cooler room (64 - 68° F) with fans and my exhaust going. They are very airy buds and the outside of them seem to be dry. When should I put them in a jar? How long should I keep them there and how often should I open the jar and let them breathe? I know that people use glass jars not plastic is this crucial? What's the simplest, fastest, cheapest (preferably free), way to dry and cure? I really don't want to mess this up again. Thanx for reading and I'd really appreciate any answers.
My first real grow was last year and the grow was successful all the way up to the drying and curing. I grew 11 plants under a 1000 watt hps And Had Pretty Decent Smelling Buds. When i got to the drying i ended up drying themn too fast like 4-6 days. what this does is locks in all the bad stuff we want out of our buds Mainly Chlorophyll. Chlorophyll gives the bud a greeny grass hay leafy smell and taste. Listen long story short my dude you want to prolong your drying by hanging the whole plant leaves and buds untrimmed. after 24 hrs of hanging take your plant into the bathroom and hang it on the shower curtain rod and let the hot water shower on a towel with the lights off and the door closed. do this for about 25-35 minutes then cut the water off and let the plant sit in the steam filled bathroom for about another 20-30 mins. remove plant and hang it back up in the drying area. repeat this for three days then skip a day, then another three days then skip a day all the way up to atleast 14 days. everytime you do this the water draws more and more unpure elements out of your bud slowly kinda like the story of the bull walking down and fuckingem all. lol. but trust me it works bruh you cant go wrong. try it at least and let me know Peace.
:blsmoke:
 

buster8813

Active Member
Dont do what he said lol(no offense). Prolonging the dry like that is not what you want to do. 4-6 days for drying is pretty well optimal, so your mistake wasnt the dry, it was the cure. After re reading the original post, one other thing caught my attention. Plastic jars. I dont think those will be as good as glass jars, dont know why but something feels wrong about that. Basically i think all you need is an extra 24 hours of drying and glass jars. If you are filling the jars over 65%, i would recommend taking the buds out for the burping process, let the air exchange and let the buds air out a little. Ive learned that filling the jars up to much and not letting the buds separate and air out a bit can very easily cause mold which is worse then bad smelling bud that is still strong lol. I would really try exactly what you did before with slightly longer drying and glass jars because everything seems right unless im missing something else in your post.
Also, as for how long you want to keep them in jars is pretty well up to you(no less then 10days), but the longer the better. I like to check up on my stuff in jars at least twice a day for the first week, then after that i only open the jars to take enough out to roll one up.
 

blowincherrypie

Well-Known Member
My first real grow was last year and the grow was successful all the way up to the drying and curing. I grew 11 plants under a 1000 watt hps And Had Pretty Decent Smelling Buds. When i got to the drying i ended up drying themn too fast like 4-6 days. what this does is locks in all the bad stuff we want out of our buds Mainly Chlorophyll. Chlorophyll gives the bud a greeny grass hay leafy smell and taste. Listen long story short my dude you want to prolong your drying by hanging the whole plant leaves and buds untrimmed. after 24 hrs of hanging take your plant into the bathroom and hang it on the shower curtain rod and let the hot water shower on a towel with the lights off and the door closed. do this for about 25-35 minutes then cut the water off and let the plant sit in the steam filled bathroom for about another 20-30 mins. remove plant and hang it back up in the drying area. repeat this for three days then skip a day, then another three days then skip a day all the way up to atleast 14 days. everytime you do this the water draws more and more unpure elements out of your bud slowly kinda like the story of the bull walking down and fuckingem all. lol. but trust me it works bruh you cant go wrong. try it at least and let me know Peace.
:blsmoke:
No offense but... That doesn't sound right
 

Mattemil

Active Member
my first real grow was last year and the grow was successful all the way up to the drying and curing. I grew 11 plants under a 1000 watt hps and had pretty decent smelling buds. When i got to the drying i ended up drying themn too fast like 4-6 days. What this does is locks in all the bad stuff we want out of our buds mainly chlorophyll. Chlorophyll gives the bud a greeny grass hay leafy smell and taste. Listen long story short my dude you want to prolong your drying by hanging the whole plant leaves and buds untrimmed. After 24 hrs of hanging take your plant into the bathroom and hang it on the shower curtain rod and let the hot water shower on a towel with the lights off and the door closed. Do this for about 25-35 minutes then cut the water off and let the plant sit in the steam filled bathroom for about another 20-30 mins. Remove plant and hang it back up in the drying area. Repeat this for three days then skip a day, then another three days then skip a day all the way up to atleast 14 days. Everytime you do this the water draws more and more unpure elements out of your bud slowly kinda like the story of the bull walking down and fuckingem all. Lol. But trust me it works bruh you cant go wrong. Try it at least and let me know peace.
:blsmoke:

l.................o.....................l
 

Ou8aCracker2

Well-Known Member
I always use a scope to check for peak maturity,as well as a good flush followed by 2 weeks of just pH 6.5 water.I then cut and hang whole plant for 5-7 days in a room that is kept 65-75°F and 60-65% RH.

After the initial 5-7 days I will inspect the buds and usually chop down whole plants to just branches and continue to hang dry (in same temp/RH) for another 3-5 days until stems snap but don't break,then I give a good dry trim,nug everything up (meaning I remove buds from branches) and place in to paper bags to sweat out the inner moisture left at center of buds and stems then take out till dry feeling again and then into jars with mini hygrometers in them,making sure the RH in the jars never gets above 65% or below 55% as per Simon's A Perfect Cure Everytime thread.

The reason we aim for a long slow dry is to not only allow for an even dry but also to help further break down chlorophyll (which can lead to a grassy/hay smell and horrible taste) but also to allow certain starches to convert to sugars and so on and so on.

Quick improper dry leads to a shitty cure,slow even dry time followed by a correct cure will give you the stickiest stinkiest buds you've ever had....everytime.
 
All I Can Say Dude Is Taste And Smell Dont Lie. For Starters My Bud Never EVER Gets "Crispy Dry" To The Touch While Its Hanging Because Its Basicallay Curing Because Of Me Applying more moisture Keeping It At Cure RH So By The Time It Goes In The Jar Its Already At A EVENLY Slow Dried State. Secondly Everyday I Remove Fan Leaves And Sugar Leave Tips While Doing "MY" Shower Method And Everybody Knows The Leaves Are The Harshiest Smelling And Tasting Thing In Your Product So I Remove Dem Day By Day Until Jar Time Or In My Case CVault Time. Third Man My Buds Just Plain And Simple Get So Fucking Sticky And Stinky During Hanging!!! I Have Yet To Here Sombody Say That They Get That Effect Bruh!! Check Out This Video Of Greenhouse Seeds (Winners Of Numerous Cannibas Cups) You Can Watch The Whole Video Its Awesome But For The Purpose Of This Segment FF To 13:00 When They Say You Want To "Dry Your Plant For 2-3 Weeks SLOWlY". So What I Have Done Since My Climate Humidity Is So Low Here I Smoked A Few Bowls And Use My Pot Sense To Tell Me Hey, Even Though I Dont Have A $30,000 Walk In Humidor Or Gods Power To Change Natures Climate Maybe If I Create Or Simulate A Controlled Humidity Room... Hmmm.... But What About Mold Hmmm...... While Given Some Pretty Challenging Equations I Realized That By Leaving Plants In The Bathroom In The Steam And Then Putting Back In My Drying Closet It Brings The Closet To A "PERFECT CURE" Humidity (59-62%RH) And It Stays There For Around 12-18 Hrs. Now If You Know About The Cvaults Then You Know About The Boveda 62 Humidipaks. These Keep Your RH In Your Storage Container At 62%. They Where Featured In Hightimes Magizine And Right Now They Are Blowing Up. I Been Had Mine Since June Last Year lol. They Take Away The Need For "BUrping". Dont Believe Me? I Do This Homie I Am "Mr. LoudPack". The Only Reason You Burp Jars Is To Release Excess Moisture But With The Bovedas They Soak All The Excess Water Up For You So You Can Say The Burp'em From Within. lol. But Anyway Back To The Steam, After Atleast 2 Weeks Of My Method You Want To Lets Skip A Day Or 2 Dependig On Bud Size Mate Then When Your Buts Feel Just Velvety And Sticky (lol It Feels Gud To Not Say Wait Til Buds Are Crispy Dont It?) And Drop Those Bad Boys In The Jars Along With The Humidipak And Let Dat Bitch Sit For 2 Weeks. My Dog When You Take That Lid Off OMG Fruity Puffs Of Loud Clouds For You And The Best Thang Is You Might Say You Only Let It Cure For 2 Weeks But Thats "Jar Cure" In Reality Essentail Metobolic Curing Process Has Been Going On Since You Cut It Down lol. Fuck The Hataz Son Common Sense Will Tell You What I Say Makes Sense Logically. My Nigga Dont Keep Fucking Your Loudpack Up Bruh You Dont Even Have To Take My Method Whatsoever just Find A Way That Lets Your Plants Dry As Slow As Fucking Possible And For Me It Was This Way. Here Is sumn I Snatched Off The Internet Homie And Below Is The Greenhouse Video FF To 13:00. Peace. Love. God.:blsmoke:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vTY1hz5gAw&feature=share&list=UUAF8Fj8odT6vMhSN0rd9AKQ

Does curing affect potency?


Contributed by: Fergetit & Skunk Works

The very short answer is YES. It does affect potency in a very positive manner. Curing cannabis after harvesting for few days to several months will improve the potency, as well as the taste and texture of the buds.

Curing takes place after cannabis has been harvested, manicured and partially dried. Most cannabis will retain a significant quantity of moisture within its stems and inner buds even when the outside feels dry. This is especially true for very dense buds, more care must be taken in drying loose airy buds because sometimes they can dry too fast.

Should a sample of bud become over-dried before proper curing is complete, many different techniques may be used to slightly re-hydrate the bud and continue curing as normal. Fresh buds, orange or lemon peels, lettuce, apple or many other fresh fruits and vegetables can be added to a sealed jar of pot to allow more moisture to diffuse into it. Plain water either sprayed directly on or applied via towel to the buds is also a good way to re-moisten them.

Be very careful when re-moisturizing buds though, because sometimes the re-moisturizing material can carry pathogenic fungi and bacteria, Which if not monitored carefully, can destroy your crop. Venting, checking, turning, and even re-moistening of buds is necessary so that the proper moisture content to promote curing is present, slow even drying is the optimum process for curing cannabis.

The preferred container for curing and storage of cannabis buds is an all glass jar, with a large opening for easy access. Wide-mouth canning jars with glass bodies and tops with a rubber seal are an ideal choice. Less preferred are small-mouth canning jars with metal or plastic lids. Generally try to avoid all plastics in direct or close contact with your cannabis. Generally these materials are slightly porous and the phenolic acids and terpenoids can react with plastics, but not with glass.

Initially drying can be preformed free hanging or enclosed in cardboard boxes or paper bags, both of which will act as a desiccant.

There are several process and effects which take place during curing that can rationally and scientifically explain the increase in potency and improvement of the smoke in cured material:

Moisture Content

Moisture is essential for the curing process, it is both your friend and enemy. If too much moisture is left in the buds, with out the regular mixing, venting and turning of buds involved with curing, molds and bacteria can quickly form and ruin the taste and potency of your stash. On the other hand, without the necessary moisture metabolic processes essential to curing do not take place.

Fresh cannabis plants are around 80% water (all %ís by weight); curing generally begins after the cannabis has lost half of itís initial mass, and contains approximately 33% of itís initial water.

Once curing is complete and the pot is ìdryî, it should still contain 10-15% moisture, approximately 2-4% of itsí initial water. This is an ideal because most bacteria and molds can not grow below 15% water content, and below 10% cannabis buds tend to powder.

Cannabinoid Conversion

Naturally, as the metabolic processes continue during curing, the conversion of cannabergerol to tetrahydrocannabinol will continue and the potency of the pot will increase. This is because cannabergerol (CBG) is the non-psychoactive precursor for tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). Of course, the exact change in THC content will necessarily be dependant upon the concentration of CBG in the fresh material at harvest. Of course any remaining precursors necessary to form additional cannabidiol (CBD) and other cannabinoids will also be consumed and converted.

Be aware though if curing is excessively prolonged (most connoisseurs would agree after 6 months no more benefit could be had from curing), the conversion of THC to non-psychoactive cannabinol (CBN) will occur. The exact rate of decomposition can vary widely depending on handling and storage conditions, but can be less than 10% to greater than 40% decomposition per year.

Storage tips:

Potency during curing and storage can be maintained by observing some basic precautions:

The buds need to be kept in the dark, protected from light, which will quickly decompose the THC.

Moderated temperatures should be observed during curing, 50-75F being ideal.

Excessively hot temperatures will promote oxidation and the growth of mold and bacteria, and very cold temperatures can prolong curing and drying for up to several months.

During storage, buds should be stored as cold as possible, if temperatures of 0C or less are to be used, make sure the bud is dried to a very low moisture content before storage (to insure that cell walls are not burst by the freezing water).
Also, if prolonged storage is planned evacuating the oxygen and replacing it with carbon dioxide, nitrogen, argon, nitrous oxide, or any other inert gas will help slow oxidation, as well as the addition of antioxidants such as ascorbic acid packets or vitamin C tablets.

The most stable way to store cannabis is as whole unbroken buds or unpressed trichomes. Excessive rough handling or pressing can easily damage the protective cell walls and plant waxes that help protect cannabinoids from oxidation.

Continued Metabolism

Also as these metabolic process take place, the plant needs energy which leads it to consume the sugars, starches, nitrates, and minerals. Many of these compounds are metabolized and released as water and carbon dioxide, therefore removing what is essentially inert material from the pot increasing the concentration of cannabinoids therefore making it more potent.

Much of these positive metabolic processes can be most effectively begun with thourough flushing and stripping of the plant before harvest. This will help reduce the amount of time necessary for a good cure.

Curing will not only improve potency, but the color and look of most cannabis buds because as the chlorophyll is broken down purple, gold, and white coloration can emerge and the trichomes will appear more pronounced.

Decarboxylation

Some decarboxylization will take place during curing as well. This happens when the carboxyl group (COOH) located at C-2, C-4, or the end of the hydrocarbon chain at C-3 is destroyed leaving a hydrogen attached and liberating CO2.

Decarboxylization is necessary to convert cannabinoids to usable psychoactive forms; the plants (and your body) carboxylize cannabinoids to make them more soluble in water (for metabolic reactions and excretion).

Research indicates that this effect is fairly minimal during the curing process though. Decarboxylization will take place naturally very rapidly at temperatures of over 100C. So smoking and most any cooking will decarboxylize the cannabinoids. As decarboxylization occurs, the loss of CO2 will liberate a small amount of inert material making the pot more potent via concentration of the cannabinoids.

Taste & Odor

Terpenoids are the highly volatile compounds that give marijuana much of itsí characteristic odors, and therefore tastes.

The most current research also suggests terpenoids lend to the high, sometimes very significantly. Cannabinoids are phenolated terepenes so itís not surprising that many hundreds of different terpenoids are synthesized as well.

As pot ages, some of the terpenoids go through polycyclic aromatization in the process of decomposition. This agglomeration of terpenoids will change the flavor; hence the ability of cured pot to show flavors that didnít seem present in the original fresh material. Much of the very volatile terpenoids will also evaporate and or decompose, especially with prolonged curing or storage. This action will remove some matter from the pot increasing the cannabinoid concentration and therefore potency.

It must be noted that excessively long curing or storage, higher temperatures, or extremely low moisture content will cause such through evaporation of the terpenoids that the cannabis will generally loose almost all of itís natural flavors.

Curing is a lengthy subject. I believe the art of curing is more difficult to master than growing. I will try to provide an overview. To begin with glass jars are the only way to cure properly. Unfortunately they are clear, so find a spot in a closet or corner of the house that is dark and free from large temperature variances.
Drying must be done properly before curing can begin. If drying is not done properly by quickening, over drying, under drying, or anything else, curing cannot even be attempted. Buds should be dried to a point that may not burn perfectly in a joint. It burns well, but it would have been tastier if the bud had been left out to dry for just a few more hours. That’s all it would take for it to turn crispy. It still has a little spring in it.
Place buds into a glass jar. The jars should be full to the top to expel the majority of air. You need air and some moisture as they allow the aerobic bacteria to come to life. They will consume chlorophyll and make your buds smoke smoother. Less harsh on the throat and tastier on the pallet.
The trick is to leave the proper moisture content in the bud, in relation to it’s particular density. Relative humidity and air temperature when jarring will play a role as well. The presence of air, light, and water are all that’s necessary for these bacteria to spring to life. Leaving just enough water and air to allow the bacteria to feed on the chlorophyll, but not enough to proliferate throughout the jar. When they run out of air, they die. So opening the jar is counterproductive to curing. Although it is necessary to pinpoint whether or not you got it right.
If you don’t leave any moisture in the buds there will be no true cure, one that increases potency through a rotation of the THC molecule by slowly removing the water. The best way to learn is to jar a half dozen or more jars of the same size, at the same time. Date the jar, and in a week crack it open.
Catch the first whiff off the jar as you break the suction created by the curing gases. If you smell the slightest whiff of ammonia, you left too much moisture in the buds and this curing attempt is done. Remove all the buds from the jars and dry them out completely. If however when you crack the jar, you smell sweet heavenly ganja, then close it up. Repeat the process in a week to check the progress of your cure. If you’ve kept the jars closed for a full two weeks and the odor is 100% free of any ammonia smell, your probably home free.
I have cured buds for 6 months that came out as fresh and pliable as when they went in. Although 2-3 weeks is enough for a good cure. I don’t fully appreciate thebouquet of most strains after a month of intense curing. You can keep buds sealed and curing for up to 2 years. Although that will take a lot of practice. I once smoked 2 year cured Sweet Tooth buds with Breeder Steve in Switzerland. WOW!
 

buster8813

Active Member
Ill bet by steaming your weed you have the stickiest and stinkiest bud as you claimed earlier. lol. Seriously though, it just is not good advice. Steam isnt good for pot, it will damage it and keeping it wet like that isnt the answer.. if your living in the desert and need to do this, well, just try water curing but stop trying to give out shit advice and confuse other new members here. After skimming through some of the other bs, i see something about ammonia.. wtf..
 
Ill bet by steaming your weed you have the stickiest and stinkiest bud as you claimed earlier. lol. Seriously though, it just is not good advice. Steam isnt good for pot, it will damage it and keeping it wet like that isnt the answer.. if your living in the desert and need to do this, well, just try water curing but stop trying to give out shit advice and confuse other new members here. After skimming through some of the other bs, i see something about ammonia.. wtf..
Then You Tell Him Whats The Best Way To Retain Moisture Homie Because Obviously His Shit Is Drying To Fast. This Works For Me No Mold No Crispness Ever And A Perfect Cure. My Neihbors Friend Grows Medical And So For The Longset He Has Had Me In The Final Product Value Because His Shit ALWAYS Looked Like Dispensary Quilaity In Smell High And Taste. He Would Never Give Me His Drying And Curing Method But Guess What... My Shit Is So Much Better Then His Now. And The Part About Ammonia Is If It Smeels 100% Ammonia Free You Are Succesful. So Unless You Have A Better Way To Ensure Slow Drying For 2-3 Weeks Fuck Off. And Why Would You Suggest one To Water Cure?!?! Do You Have Any Fucking Clue How Much That Diminishes Terpenes & Flavonoids?!?! Not To Mention Color And Texture Gone ROTFLMFAO!!!:blsmoke:
 

buster8813

Active Member
2-3 weeks DRYING is not necessary what so ever! I dont know wtf youre putting into your grows, but regardless of any accidents i made in the passed, there was never an ammonia smell. Maybe you are talking about mold with those ridiculous methods?
 
2-3 weeks DRYING is not necessary what so ever! I dont know wtf youre putting into your grows, but regardless of any accidents i made in the passed, there was never an ammonia smell. Maybe you are talking about mold with those ridiculous methods?
Wtf!!! I never said I get ammonia smell homie stop skimming thru what i typed for insults and actually read what i said homie That Ammonia to help you understand what i meant when i said the word ammonia because this is the second time you had to mention that 1 word out of everythang i typed this is where is came my nigga Kyle Kushman Homi9e And It Goes ounce again for the slow ones

by Kyle Kushman
Curing is a lengthy subject. I believe the art of curing is more difficult to master than growing. I will try to provide an overview. To begin with glass jars are the only way to cure properly. Unfortunately they are clear, so find a spot in a closet or corner of the house that is dark and free from large temperature variances.
Drying must be done properly before curing can begin. If drying is not done properly by quickening, over drying, under drying, or anything else, curing cannot even be attempted. Buds should be dried to a point that may not burn perfectly in a joint. It burns well, but it would have been tastier if the bud had been left out to dry for just a few more hours. That’s all it would take for it to turn crispy. It still has a little spring in it.
Place buds into a glass jar. The jars should be full to the top to expel the majority of air. You need air and some moisture as they allow the aerobic bacteria to come to life. They will consume chlorophyll and make your buds smoke smoother. Less harsh on the throat and tastier on the pallet.
The trick is to leave the proper moisture content in the bud, in relation to it’s particular density. Relative humidity and air temperature when jarring will play a role as well. The presence of air, light, and water are all that’s necessary for these bacteria to spring to life. Leaving just enough water and air to allow the bacteria to feed on the chlorophyll, but not enough to proliferate throughout the jar. When they run out of air, they die. So opening the jar is counterproductive to curing. Although it is necessary to pinpoint whether or not you got it right.
If you don’t leave any moisture in the buds there will be no true cure, one that increases potency through a rotation of the THC molecule by slowly removing the water. The best way to learn is to jar a half dozen or more jars of the same size, at the same time. Date the jar, and in a week crack it open.
Catch the first whiff off the jar as you break the suction created by the curing gases. If you smell the slightest whiff of ammonia, you left too much moisture in the buds and this curing attempt is done. Remove all the buds from the jars and dry them out completely. If however when you crack the jar, you smell sweet heavenly ganja, then close it up. Repeat the process in a week to check the progress of your cure. If you’ve kept the jars closed for a full two weeks and the odor is 100% free of any ammonia smell, your probably home free.
I have cured buds for 6 months that came out as fresh and pliable as when they went in. Although 2-3 weeks is enough for a good cure. I don’t fully appreciate thebouquet of most strains after a month of intense curing. You can keep buds sealed and curing for up to 2 years. Although that will take a lot of practice. I once smoked 2 year cured Sweet Tooth buds with Breeder Steve in Switzerland. WOW!
Article from MedicalMarijuana.com and republished with special permission.
 

automated

Active Member
Then You Tell Him Whats The Best Way To Retain Moisture

If your referring to his current harvest, the OP's post state that the last harvest he had was too dry and now wants to do it correct.
Your advising him to hang his 'fresh' not too dry buds in a bathroom with a running shower.

.....

Might be solid info you copy pasted there, but its not applicable in this situation.
 
For The Sake Of Peace Bruh Maybe He Shouldnt Listen To Me And For That Matter Maybe He Shouldnt Listen To You Either. He Should Find His Own Way To His "Perfect Dry" and his "Perfect Cure". But I Understand That We All Live In Different Climates Im In SC (Not SoCal) And All I Was Doing Was Tryna To Help A Fellow Grower Out But It Seems Like This Shit Going Somewhere Else So Fuck It. Do You Homie But At Least Try It Just 1 Time Just To Either Say "Fuck Young Bezzle Dat Fool Aint Know Shit" Or "Ok Dude Working Wit Sumn" Whatever But Dont Knock It Til You Try It. Anyway A Fellow South Carolinian Discovered "Fimming" So Allow Me To Introduce "Steam Cry". Cry Of Course Meaning Dry & Cure. Peace :blsmoke:
 

automated

Active Member
I wonder if that title is any indication .....

Not to be a nag, but having to haul your plants up and down the house all the time to do this forced rinsing of you proposed, is overkill, not to mention risky as your entire house could start stinking.
Is it not so that if you do the drying form the start correct, then you dont need to rehydrate, I'm betting potency is lost with every steam job.

Did anyone suggest the shower thing to you as a solution to too quickly dried harvest ? and it worked for you ?
If so, I suggest next harvest you take care in drying your harvest not too dry and cure propper.


To the OP, in the harvesting and curing subsection of the forum is a thread called a perfect cure every time , try and follow that, and you should be set.
 
No Automated Nobody suggested This To Me I Just Tried It 1 Time Because I Got Tired Of Fucking Money And Pounds Up. The Problem Is My Climate is Dry And It Affects My Whole House So I Had To Do Something And If That Meant Doing Something That Makes No cents Atleast It Made Dollaz. For Me It Works Because At 2 Weeks Hanging My Branch's Are Still Tender Enuff To Supercrop (If You Will). I Invented It For Me But I Felt Obligated To Inform Others Of My Success Rate. Every Plant That I Have Done This With Has 100% Surpassed My Expectations I Mean The First Plant Let Me Know But Every 1 After That Assured Me That This Is Not A Fluke And Should Be Used By People Who Could Benefit From It. If People Suggest Adding Vegging Fan Leaves, Orange Peels, Lettuce, Damp Paper Towels To Over Dry Buds Then I Really Dont See The Harm In Adding Moisture To Whole Plants Via Water In The Air By "Steam Crying" It Before You Get Too Dry Right? Oh And I Know About That Perfect Cure Post, I've Posted There In The Exact Post About The Boveda Humidipaks Thanks Though Homie.
 
All that is left to say is simply, lol.
Ikr lol all da way to da bank Patna. get money and get off my dick boy you a customer who turned grower homie i been doing this shit dboy who turned into the plug on dat loud shit. ayo fallback bruh this shit over nigga you failed you still a lame I know your type bruh dont get it fucked up I puts miles on my whip to dust off trolls nigga hit my white patna up he gud wit computers and i'll throw'em 2 grams of Vanilla Kush To Track Yo IP Crank up dat chevy and cum whoop yo muthafucking ass.
 
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