DIY with Quantum Boards

Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
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Stomper #1 and 2 Bulking up and frosting it’s rails ..... heavy herb smell ( got to squash that a bit ) .
Sticky as all get out ... flypaper sticky.

Thank god daughter cooks a lot of aromatic food ( disguise ) .... lol

I got a mrs. kravitz that lives down the way ....

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Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
daveybc said:
I posted this a few pages back and have since added FR to the 96e fixture. The 260 diy kit at each end is shown in last pic ( can't see the once above camera ). I have since replaced that center board with Rspec and added 2 qb96e as seen. Since I am using 1 driver per 2 boards now ( except rspec has its own driver ) I lost 1 driver ( 240h c2100a ) which will be repurposed for 4 x qb120. That 240h c2100a driver was showing around 285watts on my meter. THe 185h 54a shows around 155watts. So the output isn't far off. I was happy the 185h wasn't super hot maxed out w/2boards. So in other word the 185h driver is working better for me than the 240 c2100. And the price is much cheaper. A worthy driver for sure.
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If I lived in a legal state I would do something like that no question!!! I still have this down in the basement... A plus to this space is that I know that it doesn't leak since it has rained pretty good a few times and this side stays dry!!! This is just not a good place to start a large scale op... The neighborhood that is...20191014_181147.jpg
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
2

2com

Well-Known Member
daveybc said:
@2com found this on Amazon and the price looks right for me..

DROK® Digital Multimeter DC 6.5-100V 20A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter DC Volt Amp Tester Gauge Monitor LCD Digital Display with Blue Backlight Measuring Volts Current with Built-in Shunt : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement

DROK® Digital Multimeter DC 6.5-100V 20A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter DC Volt Amp Tester Gauge Monitor LCD Digital Display with Blue Backlight Measuring Volts Current with Built-in Shunt : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement
www.amazon.ca
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I have a couple of those. Do you mean to wire them in 'permanently'? I've heard they're not too reliable to be used like that, permanently (which sounds backwards to me, hah). I've not used one yet.
I thought you were looking for a digital multimeter suggestion.
 
J

Jqwerty1

Well-Known Member
Its been a great run for me that past few years with HLG but i will be getting out the game. I'm on my last plant and doubled up the 135's in a 2x2. Dim it or na?

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X

X6xsilverx6X

Well-Known Member
Could someone help me out, I want to wire 3 qb96 with a inventronics driver in parallel, I don’t know which driver to go with In the 320w watt range.
I think this one would work EUD-320S670BT, any help would be great!
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
X6xsilverx6X said:
Could someone help me out, I want to wire 3 qb96 with a inventronics driver in parallel, I don’t know which driver to go with In the 320w watt range.
I think this one would work EUD-320S670BT, any help would be great!
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I think all their drivers are constant current. Why do you want to wire in parallel?
 
Hero420

Hero420

Member
Hows it going everybody? I've been perusing through threads for the last few weeks getting my LED knowledge together. I've already upgraded my 2x4 veg rack to have a two 3500K LM301H QB 288's running at 240w. Now I'm about to upgrade my 4x4 flower tent with four 288 boards to replace my old 600w HPS system.

I've been seeing a lot of varying opinions on this but thought I would ask the question myself. From what I understand 3500K is solid for all around use(seed to harvest) but I'm wondering if it would it benefit me to outfit my 4x4 flower tent with 3000K boards instead of 3500K.

Any input on this is greatly appreciated. FWIW I do sometimes veg for a little while before flipping in my flower tent.
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
Hero420 said:
Hows it going everybody? I've been perusing through threads for the last few weeks getting my LED knowledge together. I've already upgraded my 2x4 veg rack to have a two 3500K LM301H QB 288's running at 240w. Now I'm about to upgrade my 4x4 flower tent with four 288 boards to replace my old 600w HPS system.

I've been seeing a lot of varying opinions on this but thought I would ask the question myself. From what I understand 3500K is solid for all around use(seed to harvest) but I'm wondering if it would it benefit me to outfit my 4x4 flower tent with 3000K boards instead of 3500K.

Any input on this is greatly appreciated. FWIW I do sometimes veg for a little while before flipping in my flower tent.
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Is LM301H same as LM301B...
Anyway, If it's between 3500K and 3000K and it's for flowering, my opinion would be 3000K. But I've never used 3500K so take that for what it's worth...

I also don't see a spectrum chart for the 3500K on the site, so I can't really compare at the moment. Is Rspec or QB96 out of the question. I think they both have more relative red and blue. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
(Btw, sale on right now - black friday).

Edit: I'd wait for my opinions/info on the 3500K vs 3000K too :)
 
Hero420

Hero420

Member
2com said:
Is LM301H same as LM301B...
Anyway, If it's between 3500K and 3000K and it's for flowering, my opinion would be 3000K. But I've never used 3500K so take that for what it's worth...

I also don't see a spectrum chart for the 3500K on the site, so I can't really compare at the moment. Is Rspec or QB96 out of the question. I think they both have more relative red and blue. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
(Btw, sale on right now - black friday).

Edit: I'd wait for my opinions/info on the 3500K vs 3000K too :)
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Thanks for chiming in. LM301H from what I understand is an updated LM301B that is supposed to be slightly more efficient, but from what I gather they are both great diodes.

I have been looking at those Rspec QB96 builds. They are awesome but I am still questioning if the 660nm chips are worth it VS a board with only Samsung LM301B or H diodes.That being said If I'm not mistaken all the Rspec boards come with 3500K diodes and then 660nm diodes to balance it out. Now that makes me question if a 3000K board is comparable to a 3500K board with 660nm mixed in. I suppose the latter would have more red and blue like you stated instead of more red and less blue but I wonder how much or what kind of difference it makes.
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
Hero420 said:
Thanks for chiming in. LM301H from what I understand is an updated LM301B that is supposed to be slightly more efficient, but from what I gather they are both great diodes.

I have been looking at those Rspec QB96 builds. They are awesome but I am still questioning if the 660nm chips are worth it VS a board with only Samsung LM301B or H diodes.That being said If I'm not mistaken all the Rspec boards come with 3500K diodes and then 660nm diodes to balance it out. Now that makes me question if a 3000K board is comparable to a 3500K board with 660nm mixed in. I suppose the latter would have more red and blue like you stated instead of more red and less blue but I wonder how much or what kind of difference it makes.
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Yup, pretty sure you're right about the 3500K base. And for the QB96 they have a base white diode, then added 630 and 660nm (can't remember base). And what you're saying is related to what I was thinking just recently that it's more the overall spectrum/"spectral relativity" (that right? lol) that's trying to be achieved. So whatever the base, or mix, or supplemental colors being used, the goal is a certain overall spectrum.

So when I look at both the QB96, and the QB 288 V2 Rspec, it *appears* (on "paper") that they both have a better spectrum, overall, than the 288 V2 3000K (For both veg, and flower).
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
2com said:
Is LM301H same as LM301B...
Anyway, If it's between 3500K and 3000K and it's for flowering, my opinion would be 3000K. But I've never used 3500K so take that for what it's worth...

I also don't see a spectrum chart for the 3500K on the site, so I can't really compare at the moment. Is Rspec or QB96 out of the question. I think they both have more relative red and blue. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
(Btw, sale on right now - black friday).

Edit: I'd wait for my opinions/info on the 3500K vs 3000K too :)
Click to expand...
Who has a black Friday sale going on???
 
daveybc

daveybc

Well-Known Member
I was thinking of order just 1. However I suppose I could use my multimeter. I rechecked the different my drivers on that AC meter and showing as follows.

1 185h 54a powering 2 QB96e pot maxed was255 watts 120.6 volts 2.11 amps
1 185h 54a powering 2 QB288 v1 pot maxed was 256 watts 120.4 volts 2.11 amps
1 240h c2100a powering 2 QB288 v1 pot maxed was 297 watts 120.4 volts 2.48 amps

Using generic "Kuman" ( cheap ) wall meter.
I did discover the 20 amp circuit I installed w 8 gauge wire runs 120.9 v and the preinstalled 15 amp circuit with 12 gauge runs at 116.6 v.

I measured voltage drop when install the 20 amp, and the bigger wire is under 3% and smaller one was just over 5%

2com said:
I have a couple of those. Do you mean to wire them in 'permanently'? I've heard they're not too reliable to be used like that, permanently (which sounds backwards to me, hah). I've not used one yet.
I thought you were looking for a digital multimeter suggestion.
Click to expand...
 
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daveybc

daveybc

Well-Known Member
I have too latly with those 54 volt drivers. One thought was each loop length to a light should probabley be the same length, if mounting drivers remotely. My thinking is you want to same voltage drop to each light. If 1 wire was 10 feet and another 15, could that start thermal runnaway ( my thoughts would be, no ), so just to be sure all my parallel wires to each driver are same length ( per driver ).

X6xsilverx6X said:
I’ve been wiring everything in parallel, figured why stop now
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