DIY with Quantum Boards

Isawthelight

Isawthelight

Well-Known Member
PopeyeSpinach said:
So long as packages arrive on time, im planning on beginning light fabrication today.

I have a 320h-c1400b

I planned on wiring my 2 QB 304s in parallel.

I have 100k pot to wire in as well.

I just wanted to make sure that since i bought this driver to run 4 QBs, that im not going to fry the 2 i was able to get. Im always so nervous i might let the smoke out things.

So im good to wire two 304s in parallel to said driver with the pot?
Plug it in and turn it on and im good to go?
Is there a number on my KW meter i need to stay away from as i turn the pot up and down?
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I'd wire those two QB 304 in series to produce the most light from your initial purchase. Series boards get the full current, while parallel boards split the current. Power = Voltage x Current. (note: I'm a lurker here & not purchased any HLG led panels, but am thinking about getting six QB120s to run in series with a 185h-c1400b.)
 
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Discreetdigrowman

Discreetdigrowman

Well-Known Member
619kt619 said:
You know code and I am not arguing that, the only problem I had with your statement was your use of words and lack of context. People take advice pretty seriously on here. Electricity should be respected, especially if you are diy, most fires linked to grows are because growers assume that their loads can be carried for the amount of time we run our equipment at day in and day out.
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Yes i did use bad terminology and my electrical theory teacher would be angry with me but still a correct statement regarding dc and i preach grounding your fixtures earlier in this thread not many likes so. If you can get a meanwell driver to burn down a house then youve bypassed critical safety circuits in it there is no way. I know of what you speak my dad burned our neutral off the side of our house with 8 thousand watts of hps in his grows years ago which is why i use leds, i will be careful with term going forward but i think i was understood at least popp22 gets me
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
This is the second turd to do this... 5730's, what a joke!

Doctor Derp said:
So you admit to freely copying someone else's work, then? Again, only a scumbag would come into someone else's thread just to advertise their products. Only a true asshole would come into someone else's thread and advertise a cheap knock off copy of the product in question!

If I'm out of line with profanity here, then my apologies to the other forum-goers here.. but this needs to be said.

@mahiluana you can kindly go fuck yourself. Thanks.
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619kt619

619kt619

Well-Known Member
Discreetdigrowman said:
Yes i did use bad terminology and my electrical theory teacher would be angry with me but still a correct statement regarding dc and i preach grounding your fixtures earlier in this thread not many likes so. If you can get a meanwell driver to burn down a house then youve bypassed critical safety circuits in it there is no way. I know of what you speak my dad burned our neutral off the side of our house with 8 thousand watts of hps in his grows years ago which is why i use leds, i will be careful with term going forward but i think i was understood at least popp22 gets me
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And I don't want to make anyone feel bad, I want to make sure people understand our advice and would not try and scale our recommendation. everyone should increase the gauge of their wire for longer runs. And I am thankful that you and others like pop are contributing and helping others better understand how electricity works.
 
SoOLED

SoOLED

Well-Known Member
I think the wire on my 260 is pretty good, I wish it was a bit more insulated.

and a driver extension option. right now I need the heat, but last month I wanted that thing out.

they are hard to handle, and ambulate the light/heat sink. some rope handles or a curved aluminum bar would be great!!!

the last thing would be a diver mounting tower. just a cage that bolts on to the heat sink /=\ so the driver can sit off the sink itself and not be sideways, I dunno why its asymmetry irks me.
 
nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
PopeyeSpinach said:
So long as packages arrive on time, im planning on beginning light fabrication today.

I have a 320h-c1400b

I planned on wiring my 2 QB 304s in parallel.

I have 100k pot to wire in as well.

I just wanted to make sure that since i bought this driver to run 4 QBs, that im not going to fry the 2 i was able to get. Im always so nervous i might let the smoke out things.

So im good to wire two 304s in parallel to said driver with the pot?
Plug it in and turn it on and im good to go?
Is there a number on my KW meter i need to stay away from as i turn the pot up and down?
Click to expand...
Do not put two boards in parallel on that driver. Your risk a voltage mismatch - The min voltage on the drive is 114V, which is above the operating voltage of the QB304.. Put them in series and dial down the current.
 
PopeyeSpinach

PopeyeSpinach

Well-Known Member
Thank you, i was about to re-ask lol.

Now, how do i go about making sure i dont fry them.

Can i just use the KW meter or should i hook a multimeter up and find a range using the pot?. Im unsure what range to run these in on the 320h-c1400b

Made some more progress this eve.
 

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nfhiggs

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
PopeyeSpinach said:
Thank you, i was about to re-ask lol.

Now, how do i go about making sure i dont fry them.

Can i just use the KW meter or should i hook a multimeter up and find a range using the pot?. Im unsure what range to run these in on the 320h-c1400b

Made some more progress this eve.
Click to expand...
The driver will only output 1400 mA. That's not enough current to fry your boards if they are in series. The 304's need about 108V each (216 total) and your driver goes up to 229V. You've got heat sinks so you're good to run them at 150W each, but you can dial the current down if you wish.
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
keepsake said:
The pictures in this thread has convinced me to go QB instead of COB.

My question now is:

HLG 550 vs 2 units of HLG 320w XL QB kit

HLG550 = 515 watts = $1049
2 x HLG320 = 640 watts = $1000

HLG550 has the 304 boards.
HLG320 uses 288 boards.

I don't know anything about those boards or efficiency so what do you guys suggest?
I would DIY but all the components are out of stock.
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Either one is a winner winner chicken dinner.
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
PopeyeSpinach said:
Thank you, i was about to re-ask lol.

Now, how do i go about making sure i dont fry them.

Can i just use the KW meter or should i hook a multimeter up and find a range using the pot?. Im unsure what range to run these in on the 320h-c1400b

Made some more progress this eve.
Click to expand...
Be careful how you lay down the diode side ... Could jack them up.
I laid my PROJECTS on a folded towel. Looks good.
 
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