DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

Scotch089

Scotch089

Well-Known Member
I just always assumed. Once my screw stopped turning clockwise it was at 700ma (+-50ma) and at 350 when counterclockwise. The drivers datasheet does say there's a 50ma tolerance (if I remember right) but I figured that was negligible

Does your screw never stop turning in either direction??
 
HiloReign

HiloReign

Well-Known Member
Yes sir Scotch, that's what I was trying to say lol. That's interesting that your screw stops as I assumed that's how mine would be.

Been looking at multimeters... Thinking I'll just pick another one up since I've got other uses for the device anyhow~
 
Scotch089

Scotch089

Well-Known Member
I dono... I'd look in the datasheet and see if it states otherwise but that sounds like there's a piece in that driver not working like it should.... all three of mine (2 flower 1 veg) all stop.

Test it with that meter and see if it does anything odd and keeps ramping up but even if not at ~80 bucks a pop I'd be hitting up where I got em from and supplying a video to get new one(s)
 
HiloReign

HiloReign

Well-Known Member
Definitely my friend, thank you for replying. If my connectors from LEDDNA would hurry up I could get things rollin' around here...

ATM I'm unsure if it even works, I may end up waiting for another driver also :sleep:

Thanks again Scotch~
 
HydroDC

HydroDC

Well-Known Member
HiloReign said:
Definitely my friend, thank you for replying. If my connectors from LEDDNA would hurry up I could get things rollin' around here...

ATM I'm unsure if it even works, I may end up waiting for another driver also :sleep:

Thanks again Scotch~
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As Scotch said, there are definitely stops on the adjustment screw. The adjustment screw is a small phillips head. Is it possible you're not getting the screwdriver properly positioned or that the head on your screwdriver is too big for the screw? Good luck.
 
Blakhash

Blakhash

Well-Known Member
HiloReign said:
Definitely my friend, thank you for replying. If my connectors from LEDDNA would hurry up I could get things rollin' around here...

ATM I'm unsure if it even works, I may end up waiting for another driver also :sleep:

Thanks again Scotch~
Click to expand...
i have a Cen-100-36 and my screw DEF stops and actually pushes my LED up to 120W (which is nice but, sweet Jesus its bright overkill) but i have felt before that the screw didn't stop but my dumb self wasn't actually turning anything.
 
Scotch089

Scotch089

Well-Known Member
That's true I did slightly strip one of mine because I used to large of a screwdriver and now that I have the right size I can feel it start to slip from being stripped. Maybe that's the case?

They are those micro screwdrivers
 
HiloReign

HiloReign

Well-Known Member
I appreciate the insight fellas, though unfortunately that's not my problem. I've got a tiny philips that fits the head perfectly.

It's funny that you'd all mention it though, I tried with a reg sized one and stripped the screw a little before figuring it out lol...
 
N

nikev

Active Member
alesh said:
If you're ok with a higher cost, there's no reason not to go that route. For curiosity, there's a table with the overall efficiency and cost per µmol/s of photons of some LED/driver combos.
All Veros are v2, price from Digikey. Cree's prices are from Kingbrite (the ones I got quoted - might vary slightly). And the price for MW drivers is from Mouser.
Efficiency figures of the most of the COBs are taken from @SupraSPL 's spreadsheets (thank you).
View attachment 3428979
e: All the COBs are 80CRI 3000K warm white.
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alesh - Again thanks for the reply. The spreadsheet is interesting. I have to sit and look at it more to fully understand what it is saying.

I know there are always to do things cheaper. $20 more then the cost of a single driver gets me a driver which will run 3 chips. If I knew better how to bypass a chip in a series string for parts of a grow where multiple lights are not needed or when I want to adjust the coloring and I just swap a cooler chip setup to a warmer chip setup I would. Last year I came from a T5 to a cheap DIY ebay 50 & 100w led setup and this year went to the V29 setup. Everything is reusable and modularized. Pull 2 cable connectors and a rope hanger disconnect and I can swap out a light. Same with a driver. I'd post picks but for security. Now I just need to improve my math and electric skills and I think I'll be good to go. Or at least not have to ask such general questions, ha ha.

Again Thanks.
 
Blakhash

Blakhash

Well-Known Member
HiloReign said:
I appreciate the insight fellas, though unfortunately that's not my problem. I've got a tiny philips that fits the head perfectly.

It's funny that you'd all mention it though, I tried with a reg sized one and stripped the screw a little before figuring it out lol...
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then i would say open the thing up, wouldn't hurt, then we could put all of the speculation to rest.
 
Scotch089

Scotch089

Well-Known Member
^^ not if he can return the thing. Can't send it back in pieces. Make a video and get a multimeter. Then blow up the seller. Trcelectronics seemed professional enough thst theyd hold up that end of the deal.
 
alesh

alesh

Well-Known Member
nikev said:
alesh - Again thanks for the reply. The spreadsheet is interesting. I have to sit and look at it more to fully understand what it is saying.

I know there are always to do things cheaper. $20 more then the cost of a single driver gets me a driver which will run 3 chips. If I knew better how to bypass a chip in a series string for parts of a grow where multiple lights are not needed or when I want to adjust the coloring and I just swap a cooler chip setup to a warmer chip setup I would. Last year I came from a T5 to a cheap DIY ebay 50 & 100w led setup and this year went to the V29 setup. Everything is reusable and modularized. Pull 2 cable connectors and a rope hanger disconnect and I can swap out a light. Same with a driver. I'd post picks but for security. Now I just need to improve my math and electric skills and I think I'll be good to go. Or at least not have to ask such general questions, ha ha.

Again Thanks.
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These drivers are dimmable in the 10-100% range so you can adjust intensity easily. You're right that swapping chips might be more difficult but TBH I don't think it's beneficial. I actually think that anything in the 3-4000K range is perfect for the whole cycle and there's no need for cooler CCTs. I also find larger drivers simplifying the whole setup.
Regarding the spreadsheet - you should be interested in the last two columns - quantum efficiency (how many photons are produced per each dissipated watt, the higher the better) and price per photons produced (the lower the better of course).
 
B

bigljd

Active Member
Positivity said:
Guod posted this once...looked it up since I was curious myself..

View attachment 3429446
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Thanks Posi, it's good to know this is an option. I was able to find some 3W Cree XTE in Royal Blue that can handle 1.5A from RapidLED, so I changed plans and ordered 6 of those to wire in series (no parallel strings). I know the Vero 29 v2 3000k COBs are really low in blue, so this should help balance the spectrum a bit. Part of me would still like to add some hyper violet to the mix, but I'm going to just stick with the blues for now.
 
tick tack toe

tick tack toe

Well-Known Member
I am looking into getting 4 x cxa3950 3000k cob lights. Is getting one HLG-185H-C1400a a good match? What bin should I be looking for?

also do Arctic Alpin11 work on these cobs or do I have to find other heatsinks?
 
alesh

alesh

Well-Known Member
tick tack toe said:
I am looking into getting 4 x cxa3950 3000k cob lights. Is getting one HLG-185H-C1400a a good match? What bin should I be looking for?

also do Arctic Alpin11 work on these cobs or do I have to find other heatsinks?
Click to expand...
It's a good match for 4xCXB3590 36V version. You should be looking for the best bin you can get which will probably be CB.
I'm not sure whether AA11 is large enough to mount the COB+holder.
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
HiloReign said:
Yes sir Scotch, that's what I was trying to say lol. That's interesting that your screw stops as I assumed that's how mine would be.

Been looking at multimeters... Thinking I'll just pick another one up since I've got other uses for the device anyhow~
Click to expand...
Try to find the Uni-Trend UT61E Digital multimeter. ( ~ $ 45-50 )
Best bang for the buck .
Truly an amazing multimeter ...
High quality built ,with lots of features ( 22000 counts,bar -graph, True RMS ,PC data logging ,Frequency-Duty cycle measuring ,capacitance measuring ,etc).
Most favoured DMM ,amongst amateur electronics hobbyists.

I've recently aquired one myshelf and I'm truly amazed.

Also with some easy mods ,one can upgrade almost by x100 the accuracy stability of the meter ,as also it's input protection.
(I can post the mods ,if you're interested ).

google " UT651E reviews " and get an idea how amazing is that cheap multimeter ...
( trust me ..Way better in most points than Flukes 113-114-115 )

Almost a must to the average LED DIYer ...

Cheers.
 
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