DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Thanks Guod. Yeah i can get them for $5.95 each..that was just a link that came up. Steves LED's also has the luxeons for $3.40 each.

It was just tying in with my 'current' design (<<<<<nailed it)

Havent really got a good link for 660nm Oslons on stars...

On star for ~$4 each ..
http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-Osram/Osram-Oslon--SSL/OSRAM-Oslon-SSL-80-red-on-Star-LT-1974_206_207.html


6x 'in line ' mcpcb for ~$ 20 each mcpcb..
http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Power-LEDs-Osram/Osram-Module/OSRAM-Oslon-SSL-80-rot-Array-LT-2017_206_209.html


12 in round mcpcb for ~$39 each mcpcb ..
http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Power-LEDs-Osram/Osram-Module/12-x-OSRAM-Oslon-SSL-80-rot-auf-Rund-Platine-LT-2035_206_209.html


You can change the language on top of page ...
 

Chronikool

Well-Known Member
Thankz 'stardusty and 'fluxie...80 degree ledz may work quite nicely as i dont have any lenses on other diodes...back to the design.. :-)
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Question about how to hook up 4 12v fans to my ATTEMT TO DIY cree light. What splitters ect. might I need. I have a $6 Ebay power supply coming. Thank you for any thing. I will start a short thread soon.
I make splitters with bare crimp terminals and heatshrink tubing. They are cheap and make very secure connections, a good solution (for the DC side) if you have a lot of connections to make. Mr Flux suggested Wago connectors which are very quick and easy.
DSC06970a.jpg
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Now it's my turn to ask couple of questions .....
( mainly to the brothers : SupraSPL -Guod -Mr Flux ,but if anyone else knows anything about ,please feel welcome to respond ...)


I got the MeanWell HLP-80-42 for driving the CXA3070 ...
http://www.meanwell.com/search/HLP-80H/default.htm

I was notified-just-yesterday about a shop that has 'em in stock for ~$40 each :
http://www.kutop.com/80w-meanwell-hlp-80h-single-output-dimmable-led-driver.html

That driver has two trim pots ..
One is to adjust (limit in fact ) the output current ..( 1.56 -1.95 A )
And the other trim pot adjusts output voltage (? ) (38-46 V )
While it can provide CC regulation from 25.2 V up to 42 V (output voltage )

This driver can operate both as a CV or as a CC driver ...

I'm pretty sure that this driver in fact ( HLP-80H -42) ,is the bare 'internal' pcb of the top series
HGL-80H-42,which has almost double retail price !
From HGL-80H-42 :
driving cv cc.JPG


Can somebody explain to me in which situation a CV of >42 V is needed ?
And what would be the current then ?

Does it mean ,that once the Vo is adjusted >42 V ,then the current adjust is being done throught the Io trim pot ?
And the driver works as a CC only when Vo max =42 V ?

Very interesting is also the test report of the driver :
test rep.JPG

Where actually the current range is 1.2 A to ~2.3 A !!!


As well as the dimming function test report ...(besides 'spec' is 'report ' ) ...
dimming.JPG

Where it shows ,that only when using a res/pot or PWM ,the driver goes well over 100% of Io ....


As also the user manual ....(besides 'certificates'
Where it says,about appropriate circuit breakers ...

cb.JPG
cb1.JPG

( also another 'hint' that HLP series is the bare pcb of the HGL series ...)

So for my fixture ,which utilises 4x of these drivers ,I should use either a 'B' type circuit breaker at 16 A ,
or a 'C' type circuit breaker at 10 A ..
Correct ?

( here's the 'tripping classes ' of circuit breakers .Common ,no matter the brand of the CB :

tripping char of cb.JPG

And that of course ,because of the ' inrush current ' of the drivers ( 70 A ) :
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inrush_current

currents.JPG

While the 4 drivers will only draw 4* .4 A =1.6 A when in normal operation ,
when powered on ,for a brief moment ,inrush current is 63 A ! ....


So ...
Would be this resettable CB appropriate for my fixture ?
P5021170.JPG

(SCHURTER T11 211 12 A type C )

http://www.schurter.com/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_T11-211.pdf
 
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SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I just cut those connectors off and use the black and red wires. One word of warning is to make sure your fan power supply can reliably start all four fans from a dead stop. You can add a capacitor to give the fans a boost when they first click on. It may not be necessary but I am experimenting with it because it seems like a good safeguard to protect the COBs. Something like this 16V 1000uf.
 
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