Yep should be right around 200w. My tent is 40"x40"x60". I already have a PlatinumLED P300 in there so I'm going to add the 4 CXBs once I'm finished. If I like them, I'm going to build a second set of 4 CXBs and move the P300 into another area. That would give me about 400 watts in a 11 sq ft area which should give me fatty nugs. I'm just about to harvest my first grow and it's looking good so hopefully with 200 more watts it will be ridiculous.
hopefully for you man...
...thanks for the reply.
Obviously I am not SupraSPL, but I have read what he says and looked at his posted photos. I saw where he used Kapton tape and thermal paste to hold a cop to a heat sink, so I tried it and it works well. So yes, you can do it and it works well, but I did read a post by a person who said that they had attached some cobs using only Kapton tape and thermal paste and one of the cobs had separated from the heatsink. So make sure that you clean the surface of the heatsink, I use isopropyl alcohol, so that there is no residue preventing the Kapton tape from getting good adhesion.
SupraSPL uses the tape just like tape, not double-sided tape. He hold down the COB and put tape on the edge of the cob and the heatsink surface. There is a good bond between the COB and the heatsink surface because of the thermal paste. You push down on the cob and it squishes the paste out and you twist the cob a bit and move it from side to side a bit so that there is a good contact between the COB and the paste. Then the tape just keeps the cob from moving and disturbing the bond.While we wait for his answers, here is everything about Kapton Tape. I have been thinking about it, too.
You get some elongation as the temp. rises but not much.
http://www.dupont.com/content/dam/assets/products-and-services/membranes-films/assets/DEC-Kapton-summary-of-properties.pdf
Some of the properties such as tensile strength will degrade to zero over time, in heat. It doesn't like UV exposure, or water.
But, I am not sure what you mean. Just use it like masking tape? Or is it double sided between the COB and the sink? The problem is not attachment, you know?
The problem is to create a thermally efficient bond between the junction and the heat sink. Not an easy problem. To see the problem you need imagination as it happens on the microscopic level.
Supra when through enormous work to polish his heat sink. Why? He made the surface as gap free smooth as possible. It shines, it reflects, it looks like 4 wires when there are only 2.
I saw a prototype of our latest processor yesterday. It is polished as fine as a mirror in a telescope. Why? Same thing. It is what the polished side the heat sink clamps to.
So, heat can only transfer directly molecule to molecule. If a molecule of aluminum is in DIRECT contact with molecule of COB bottom surface, heat will flow easiest. But, if there is the most sub-microscopic gap in smoothness there, it is an AIR GAP. <GASP>Now the heat has to go through molecules of air first.
This is why use expensive silver based gap filling compounds, because the gaps we are talking about are not visible to the eye.
So, can Kapton apply enough pressure to keep the gap filler happy? That's the main question.
That's why we use screws, polish work, and gap filler.
Are you putting 2 COBs per Alpine 11Plus?Hey Supra, my 20 cxa3070's with ideal cobholders have arrived
10x Alpine 11 Plus are on the way, as so are the 50K potmeters
10 coolers will follow later
the only thing for me to decide is which drivers to use (it will be Meanwell though) and if i'd remove the preapplied heatpad on the Alpine 11 plus, someone noted you did test this and saw no difference ?
I'm wondering what's more efficient for my surface (50cmx132cm)
2 x (5 cxa3070 AB with HLG-185-C1050) dimmed) almost all voltage used
OR
2 x (5 cxa3070 AB with HLG-120-C700) dimmed) 5/6 voltage used
in both cases dimmed to 500mA most of the time
i want to add blue later on but undecided to use 5000K cobs or a blue Phobya ledstrip
they also have UV lightstrips, since they come in 120cm and I don't have a lot of room (2 shelves 109cm height/compartiment) they seem interesting but i have no clue what efficienty is like
Ooooowwwwww. I love trick packaging. Where did those come from? I am feeling a bit jelly now.Woohoo!
The Vegeblaster Mark I is more than a dream
Mouser Germany
That is a weird looking diffuser. I'd like to see that in action.Has anyone seen this remote phosphor before?
http://www.intematix.com/uploads/Briefs/ChromaLitXTbrief.pdf
Quite interesting from a efficiency/diffuse light spread for vegetation. Or am I merely showing my ignorance of "how to get the best quality diffuse light"
I have just received a (badly designed) light unit using this and have to say it seems impressive - though as I have only just received my COBs, and don't have a light meter, my "reference points" are somewhat limited.
No, just 1 but 2 rows of 5, so 1 cob 3000K for every 25cm2
Very interested in how you are spacing them. Will post my designs soon
In case, like me you know absolutely nothing about remote phosphor.Has anyone seen this remote phosphor before?
http://www.intematix.com/uploads/Briefs/ChromaLitXTbrief.pdf
Quite interesting from a efficiency/diffuse light spread for vegetation. Or am I merely showing my ignorance of "how to get the best quality diffuse light"
I have just received a (badly designed) light unit using this and have to say it seems impressive - though as I have only just received my COBs, and don't have a light meter, my "reference points" are somewhat limited.
It's actually really cool..... If such a thing is possible
thanks for the reply Dloomis, but im talking about Supra's efficiency charts that he makes in the spreadsheet. specifically for the cxb3070
