DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

K

Kuifje76

Well-Known Member
happy75 said:
Lol... Me too at first. I did only half what they did on the video. I took it apart and put each of the colours in a "kroonsteentje".. and it works! It costs me less time than use a special driver for each of my lightunits.
Click to expand...
I have the wires ready and can test different psu, i have a lot laying around but only 1 is 5V and doesn't work, another psu is a switchable one but with a loose connector, maybe i'll use that one but i'm afraid the connector will loosen up over time.
I have a few other ones (2x 12v 1050mA) but that makes too much noise for my taste, i tested them

it's 1 cxa3070 ab per alpine 11 plus, how much watt would such a cooler cool passive, how high in mA could i go before i get into trouble ? there will be some air circulation...
in total its 10 of those per shelf, 2 shelves, but i want to power them seperatly, probably some 5K cobs will follow later :), so say total of 14x Arctic Alpine 11 Plus on 5v per driver, don't have a clue how much they use on 5V and how high i could go in mA with the cobs...
 
happy75

happy75

Well-Known Member
Kuifje76 said:
I have the wires ready and can test different psu, i have a lot laying around but only 1 is 5V and doesn't work, another psu is a switchable one but with a loose connector, maybe i'll use that one but i'm afraid the connector will loosen up over time.
I have a few other ones (2x 12v 1050mA) but that makes too much noise for my taste, i tested them

it's 1 cxa3070 ab per alpine 11 plus, how much watt would such a cooler cool passive, how high in mA could i go before i get into trouble ? there will be some air circulation...
in total its 10 of those per shelf, 2 shelves, but i want to power them seperatly, probably some 5K cobs will follow later :), so say total of 14x Arctic Alpine 11 Plus on 5v per driver, don't have a clue how much they use on 5V and how high i could go in mA with the cobs...
Click to expand...
Look at the datasheet. http://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/alpine-11-plus.html. It can cool max 100 watt @12V @0.16mA on active. When on 5V they will take less amps I think, but I cannot calculate it either. You could try of course and see if they start up.

I have one cob 5000K @1.4A growing in a small tent without any cooling, cob does not break. I thought that Supra calculated it a while back how much passive cooling they could handle.
 
1947 Boy

1947 Boy

Member
Hey guys, I would like your opinion. I am thinking about this:
1.05A.png

My grow room is 8' x 9'. The numbers are based on Supra's spreadsheet.
I would like to using dimable drivers and normally run 700mA (and crank up higher if needed).

Here are the 700mA numbers:
700mA.png
So is 2,182 lm/sq ft about the right number, or need more lights..., less lights...?

The COBs are 3000K
 
foreverflyhi

foreverflyhi

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
I experimented putting it in during transplants a few times but I never did a controlled side by side. I do use microbial teas, recycled same soil for years, homemade EWC etc. If you are using no-till there should be plenty of well adapted fungi in the pots and probably composting worms also.
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True on the fungi, but kinda not true for the Endo Mychorizzal.
Endo Mychorizzal Needs to be inoculated during each transplant, it will not be present in any bag soil, compost or ewc (becomes food stock for the micros) and for damn sure is useless in its hydro bottle form, water soluble works, but not in water, it must be powdered on to the roots. Mychorizzal makes a huge difference in quality and yield, if your growing Rols or LOS, it needs to be inoculated. Some rols people say it will eventually be inoculated in aged soil, but let's not take that chance and infect them rhizosphere in each and every transplant.
 
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C

CellarDweller

Well-Known Member
foreverflyhi said:
True on the fungi, but kinda not true for the Endo Mychorizzal.
Endo Mychorizzal Needs to be inoculated during each transplant, it will not be present in any bag soil, compost or ewc (becomes food stock for the micros) and for damn sure is useless in its hydro bottle form, water soluble works, but not in water, it must be powdered on to the roots. Mychorizzal makes a huge difference in quality and yield, if your growing Rols or LOS, it needs to be inoculated. Some rols people say it will eventually be inoculated in aged soil, but let's not take that chance and infect them rhizosphere in each and every transplant.
Click to expand...
Oh wow.....your knowledge highlights my noobignorance :( ROL and LOS are new acronyms to me (not an MJ grower) and I am assuming you're saying that I should put some Endo on the root system each and every time I transplant a plant (though that should only be 2 or 3 times). Having now spent some time to research the interweb you are totally right and I am indebted to you :) Powder/granular form is best apparently as the pellet forming process can sometimes create excess (over 140F) heat and therefore kill the good stuff.
 
nogod_

nogod_

Well-Known Member
Do you already own those cobs?

I would go option A.

8 x hlg-185h-c1050

Wouldnt hurt to throw another 10 cobs in there and hit the 10 driver volume discount.
:blsmoke:

1947 Boy said:
Hey guys, I would like your opinion. I am thinking about this:
View attachment 3392649

My grow room is 8' x 9'. The numbers are based on Supra's spreadsheet.
I would like to using dimable drivers and normally run 700mA (and crank up higher if needed).

Here are the 700mA numbers:
View attachment 3392650
So is 2,182 lm/sq ft about the right number, or need more lights..., less lights...?

The COBs are 3000K
Click to expand...
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
foreverflyhi said:
True on the fungi, but kinda not true for the Endo Mychorizzal.
Endo Mychorizzal Needs to be inoculated during each transplant, it will not be present in any bag soil, compost or ewc (becomes food stock for the micros) and for damn sure is useless in its hydro bottle form, water soluble works, but not in water, it must be powdered on to the roots. Mychorizzal makes a huge difference in quality and yield, if your growing Rols or LOS, it needs to be inoculated. Some rols people say it will eventually be inoculated in aged soil, but let's not take that chance and infect them rhizosphere in each and every transplant.
Click to expand...
I have been trying no-till without giving the buckets much of a rest between cycles (a week or 2). Do you think myco would still be in there in that case?
 
foreverflyhi

foreverflyhi

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
I have been trying no-till without giving the buckets much of a rest between cycles (a week or 2). Do you think myco would still be in there in that case?
Click to expand...
Wouldn't take the chance honestly, especially if your doing less then ten gallons. I've been using the cover crop mix that supposedly helps fungi and Mychorizzal growth, also heard bahia grass helps, I think that would help your odds on having mychos preasent.
best deal so far
http://www.amazon.com/Endo-Mycorrhizae-2-lb-package/dp/B008B04HD2
When your plugging in a new clone or seedling, simply powder up the roots!
 
foreverflyhi

foreverflyhi

Well-Known Member
The canopy on this one plant is about 4x4.5 the other plant is the same, so total about 4x9 in canopy size. Pumping about 600 watt.
 
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guod

guod

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
From KNNA 2007 post:

--------------------------------------------------------
LER:
450nm-60 lm/w
470nm-75 lm/w
630nm-190 lm/w
640nm-150lm/w
645nm-120lm/w
660nm-50-60 lm/w
white (daylight)-275lm/w
white (warm white)-320 lm/w
---------------------------------------------------------
Click to expand...
from GUOD 4/2015
----------------------------------------------------------
LER (360nm - 830nm)

445nm - 19.3 lm/W
446nm - 21.3 lm/W
447nm - 23.4 lm/W
448nm - 25.3 lm/W
449nm - 27.2 lm/W
450nm - 29.1 lm/W
451nm - 31.0 lm/W
452nm - 32.8 lm/W
453nm - 34.6 lm/W
454nm - 36.4 lm/W
455nm - 38.3 lm/W

465nm - 60.3 lm/W

470nm - 76.5 lm/W
471nm - 80.3 lm/W
472nm - 84.3 lm/W
473nm - 88.3 lm/W
474nm - 92.8 lm/W
475nm - 97.3 lm/W
476nm - 100.0 lm/W
477nm - 106.0 lm/W
478nm - 111.0 lm/W
479nm - 116.0 lm/W
480nm - 120.0 lm/W


620nm - 216 lm/W
621nm - 208 lm/W
622nm - 200 lm/W
623nm - 192 lm/W
624nm - 184 lm/W
625nm - 177 lm/W
626nm - 170 lm/W
627nm - 163 lm/W
628nm - 156 lm/W
629nm - 149 lm/W
630nm - 142 lm/W

635nm - 112 lm/W

640nm - 85.1 lm/W

645nm - 62.8 lm/W

650nm - 44.9 lm/W

655nm - 31.6 lm/W

660nm - 22.0 lm/W
----------------------------------------------
 
EfficientWatt

EfficientWatt

Well-Known Member
Why so much difference ?! :shock:

Looks like except for 470nm, everything is way off :eek:


guod said:
from GUOD 4/2015
----------------------------------------------------------
LER (360nm - 830nm)

445nm - 19.3 lm/W
446nm - 21.3 lm/W
447nm - 23.4 lm/W
448nm - 25.3 lm/W
449nm - 27.2 lm/W
450nm - 29.1 lm/W
451nm - 31.0 lm/W
452nm - 32.8 lm/W
453nm - 34.6 lm/W
454nm - 36.4 lm/W
455nm - 38.3 lm/W

465nm - 60.3 lm/W

470nm - 76.5 lm/W
471nm - 80.3 lm/W
472nm - 84.3 lm/W
473nm - 88.3 lm/W
474nm - 92.8 lm/W
475nm - 97.3 lm/W
476nm - 100.0 lm/W
477nm - 106.0 lm/W
478nm - 111.0 lm/W
479nm - 116.0 lm/W
480nm - 120.0 lm/W


620nm - 216 lm/W
621nm - 208 lm/W
622nm - 200 lm/W
623nm - 192 lm/W
624nm - 184 lm/W
625nm - 177 lm/W
626nm - 170 lm/W
627nm - 163 lm/W
628nm - 156 lm/W
629nm - 149 lm/W
630nm - 142 lm/W

635nm - 112 lm/W

640nm - 85.1 lm/W

645nm - 62.8 lm/W

650nm - 44.9 lm/W

655nm - 31.6 lm/W

660nm - 22.0 lm/W
----------------------------------------------
Click to expand...
 
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P

Pantar

Member
CellarDweller said:
Apologies for the utterly un-LED related question - but the people here are pretty "special" so I value your opinion in matters healthy growing......has anyone used
MYCORRHIZAE in their grow?
Click to expand...
Most organic soil you buy will have some sort of beneficial fungus in there (MYCORRHIZAE), you can add more if you want, they do help but you have to take care with what nutes, etc you use, so you dont damage the beneficial fungus. Check trichoderma also.
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
guod said:
from GUOD 4/2015
620nm - 216 lm/W
621nm - 208 lm/W
622nm - 200 lm/W
623nm - 192 lm/W
624nm - 184 lm/W
625nm - 177 lm/W
626nm - 170 lm/W
627nm - 163 lm/W
628nm - 156 lm/W
629nm - 149 lm/W
630nm - 142 lm/W
----------------------------------------------
Click to expand...
Looks like these are based on single nm spikes rather than the average of the SPD curves, otherwise we would not have 610nm P4 bin and 630nm P3 bin, there would be a much larger difference. Also that would mean that 630nm LEDs are hugely efficient and that 610nm and 660nm are not, which makes little sense.

SPD.png
 
P

Pantar

Member
Hello,
Im planning to build 4 CXB3950 with Artic PC coolers (or maybe Vero29).
The HLG-185H-C1400B seems to be the great deal for 4 CXB3070, would it be good for 2 CXB3950? Is there a "great deal" or better driver for the CXB3950s? Its more than 100Ws per LED.

Now talking about Vero29:
I followed this to make some calculations: https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/vero18-29-v2-png.3349609/
Anyone has the data for the 2.1-2.8A range? I want to run them for the 2.1-2.8A range, seems they dissipate less heat than the CXB3950, any "great deal" driver for 4 Vero29? One HLN-80H-36 for each Vero?

Im also very new/bad with electronic stuff, where do i check if the HLG-185H-C1400B can support the voltage of 4 CXB3070 in series? Is this the min/max "127 VDC to 431 VDC"?

Thanks!
 
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