DIY design build throwdown

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
i think that is better because then it brings the problem to your immediate attention. what if by bad luck, they're on when you look at them but later they're on and off many times due to over-heating.... man that would suck O_O
Well, this is why I'd want progressive dimming. That way, it would reach an equilibrium you'd notice.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I watche'd a video on peltiers TODAY pasted to an Arctic 11 and then a water inlet outlet chip used for water cooling cups in comps. The water just ran up and touched the peltier and he was cooling 10-15 gals down to like 54-58* or something. Got me very curious as I could just cut a square in the bucket lid and it's all cheap cheap cheap.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
...also technically you don't need to do a ground at all...seen a two prong plug? It was never grounded....and worked fine, just that if something did go wrong, you made sure you weren't in the path....There are lots of variations on the grounding theme, not just "one" way. Not even one "right" way either....

have you ran across the Solid State Relay / Resettable Thermostatic Fan Switch for your operating needs?

I posted the diagram many times, I will see if I can dig it out again, really just a 12v solid state relay 15A [$4 on Ebay] ran in a loop with a thermostatic fan switch and your 12v fans....

Mine switches were set at 75C....and attached to the Heatsink in the hottest location I could find.....basically if the Fans cut out, the solid state relay will kill the driver....if the Heat rises above 75C it will turn off the Resettable ThermoSwitch and shut down the fans...You will need to reset the button manually in this example, but better than turning back on.....
In order from above
For whatever reason when I bought the MW driver with cord I expected it would be a 3 prong and didn't even look at the cut sheet.

The thermostat I have does have some settable parameters like a delay on, hysteresis (how far below set point before shut down), and some alarm functions. I think for now I'm going to set it to activate a fresh air intake still at 12v so i guess no I haven't had a "need" for it but then I use the word "need" in these contexts very loosely.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
I watche'd a video on peltiers TODAY pasted to an Arctic 11 and then a water inlet outlet chip used for water cooling cups in comps. The water just ran up and touched the peltier and he was cooling 10-15 gals down to like 54-58* or something. Got me very curious as I could just cut a square in the bucket lid and it's all cheap cheap cheap.
funny thats the heatsink I got too..... no need for a mini fridge eh?
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I watche'd a video on peltiers TODAY pasted to an Arctic 11 and then a water inlet outlet chip used for water cooling cups in comps. The water just ran up and touched the peltier and he was cooling 10-15 gals down to like 54-58* or something. Got me very curious as I could just cut a square in the bucket lid and it's all cheap cheap cheap.

Here's that vid. Watch it! It's less than 3 minutes AND IT'S 53*!!!!!!
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
@ttystikk will get a woody when he sees that vid :)
Wait til he reads this...
So the thermoelectric generators are spec'd as follows -
20 degree temperature difference: open-circuit voltage 0.97V, generated current: 225MA
40 degree temperature difference: open circuit voltage 1.8V, generated current: 368MA
60 degree temperature difference: open circuit voltage 2.4V, generated current: 469MA
80 degree temperature difference: the open circuit voltage 3.6V, generated current: 558MA
100 degree temperature difference: open circuit voltage 4.8V, generated current: 669MA
(per piece, these are reference values so probably not going to get 100%)
The Alpine 64 fans i have can run on 5-12v if 4 these are placed on the outside of the heatsink I think I'll have enough juice to spin the fan, which in turn will cool the outside of the chip increasing temp difference and therefore voltage and fan speed (theory) - then can this be balanced??? ---- I'll just add an extra cob or 2 :bigjoint: @BOBBY_G
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
Wait til he reads this...
So the thermoelectric generators are spec'd as follows -
20 degree temperature difference: open-circuit voltage 0.97V, generated current: 225MA
40 degree temperature difference: open circuit voltage 1.8V, generated current: 368MA
60 degree temperature difference: open circuit voltage 2.4V, generated current: 469MA
80 degree temperature difference: the open circuit voltage 3.6V, generated current: 558MA
100 degree temperature difference: open circuit voltage 4.8V, generated current: 669MA
(per piece, these are reference values so probably not going to get 100%)
The Alpine 64 fans i have can run on 5-12v if 4 these are placed on the outside of the heatsink I think I'll have enough juice to spin the fan, which in turn will cool the outside of the chip increasing temp difference and therefore voltage and fan speed (theory) - then can this be balanced??? ---- I'll just add an extra cob or 2 :bigjoint: @BOBBY_G
im real curious about those things,you ordered some right?
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
im real curious about those things,you ordered some right?
Yeah 6 of em, ordered last night said delivery was a month out but checked this morning and it says shipped via usps, i know its called snail mail but....

Edit: Back to a previous idea I had but saw no real way to do it but dimming by temperature???? off I go to look some shit up....
 
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SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Operating range something like -35c to 85c so I'm thinking sandwich between cob and hs and run cold side at 25c and wouldn't it be just a dream if the thermal generators on say in my instance the 2cob pannel then parallell in the electrocooled one as a pendant!
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Operating range something like -35c to 85c so I'm thinking sandwich between cob and hs and run cold side at 25c and wouldn't it be just a dream if the thermal generators on say in my instance the 2cob pannel then parallell in the electrocooled one as a pendant!
I'd never use for a cob. My heatsinks don even get hot. I wanna use a water block on it to cool my res. How much wattage can the bigger one handle?
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
I'd never use for a cob. My heatsinks don even get hot. I wanna use a water block on it to cool my res. How much wattage can the bigger one handle?
No? 25c supposed to optimize flux and lifespan? Why never, I try not pin myself down by using such definite terms.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Hey @PurpleBuz, @sixstring2112 , @ttystikk , @Abiqua et. al. Being a dumb ass stoner I misplaced my little temperature humidity probe while reconfiguring a couple of days ago.I feel like it's time to put in remote sensors and have a single display and my be a little built in logic or capability to do some minimal environmental control.

I'm not opposed to taking something out of the box, plugging it in, and simply using it for its intended purpose (though my previous posts may lead you to believe otherwise).

Oh and the kicker 100 dollar (USD) budget.

The reason I ask is I saw something called a "smart relay" but it was $170.
 
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sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
Hey @PurpleBuz, @sixstring2112 , @ttystikk , @Abiqua et. al. Being a dumb ass stoner I misplaced my little temperature humidity probe while reconfiguring a couple of days ago.I feel like it's time to put in remote sensors and have a single display and my be a little built in logic or capability to do some minimal environmental control.

I'm not opposed to taking something out of the box, plugging it in, and simply using it for its intended purpose (though my previous posts may lead you to believe otherwise).

Oh and the kicker 100 dollar (USD) budget.

The reason I ask is I saw something called a "smart relay" but it was $170.
I been looking at what i think is called firestorm or just storm controller ,cant find my links now lol.but just kinda wait till someone makes a cheap version that will do sunrise sunset plus high temp shutoff without me having to do the programming. I.just want plug n play but like you im also cheap so under a hundy would be nice.
 
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