Different wattages and distance?

Ive read that three 600W bulbs is better then two 1000W bulbs. Ive tried both and agree that three 600W bulbs gets a more even spread and less dark spots.

My question is (I have height limitations), if I lower the lights to 400W and put them closer to the plants, is that the same as 600W further away? Im getting the same reading on the light meter from both set ups. So theoretically it should be the same? Im getting really good quality stuff just not the weight I want. Im thinking its a light issue.

It you want the weight, 1000s is the way to go all the way. 1000w DE is even better, I just switched all my rooms to these and saw a 15-20% increase in yield.

707humboldt said:

It you want the weight, 1000s is the way to go all the way. 1000w DE is even better, I just switched all my rooms to these and saw a 15-20% increase in yield.

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I keep meaning to ask you. Are you running them DE's at max(1150 watts) or just 1000?

You won't get the penetration with the 4 as you would the 600.
707 your getting 20% more using 40% more electric....wouldn't 2 600's be more efficient?

707 is correct. because of light penetration 1k de is the way to go. Yes, you can use lower wattage fixtures and try to spread you canopy, but you will never get the overall penetration and par watts available with 1k DE. personally i would rather have have one 1k DE, than two 600's, or four 400's. just mho

Aeroknow said:

I keep meaning to ask you. Are you running them DE's at max(1150 watts) or just 1000?

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Just at 1000

brimck325 said:

You won't get the penetration with the 4 as you would the 600.
707 your getting 20% more using 40% more electric....wouldn't 2 600's be more efficient?

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I switched out standard 1000w hps for 1000w DE.

707humboldt said:

Just at 1000

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See, thats killer man. Straight 1000w showdown, in the same space. And the DE's won. Sweet!

Yeah so I've showed you those hoods I use, and get a 4'x6' footprint outta them @1150 watts.
So, i'm using 1/3 less fixtures, and yet yielding the same as before with traditional 1000w'ers. That's a win in my book also

The lumens a plant receives is a factor of distance from the light, regardless of wattage. For instance, a plant sitting 2 feet from the light gets one quarter the lumens if moved to 4 feet from the light. The closer to the light you get (without burning) the better. I use the hand test to judge distances from the lights. The back of your hand is about as sensitive to heat as our plants, my MJ growers' book says. So I telescope my hand towards and away from the light 'til I find the point where my hand is not uncomfortably warm. Note - I have a perpetual grow going so my flower room has plants flowering from one week to seven weeks. Means all different sized plants. I've found it is much easier to adjust each plant to the light rather than the other way around. I use a bunch of different sized upside-down pots as booster seats for my younger gals.

Good luck, BigSteve.

I always hear the hand test. Never worked for me, I have a mini split AC and 1 tray right under it. Two 1000w's over 18 plants. about 2 feet away. temps never exceeded 75 degrees cause the ac. The plants did get bleached to shit though. Turned all the green leaves white and yellow ontop.

I had large adjust a wing hoods which are terrible so they funneled light weird.

Ive also kept canopies at 84max (running c02 as well) and thousand watters 20-24" away and still bleached plants. But now I do have height limitations so as they grow I have to bump the watts down as they get closer. Hence the first question.

ZerocoolSmith said:

I always hear the hand test. Never worked for me, I have a mini split AC and 1 tray right under it. Two 1000w's over 18 plants. about 2 feet away. temps never exceeded 75 degrees cause the ac. The plants did get bleached to shit though. Turned all the green leaves white and yellow ontop.

I had large adjust a wing hoods which are terrible so they funneled light weird.

Ive also kept canopies at 84max (running c02 as well) and thousand watters 20-24" away and still bleached plants. But now I do have height limitations so as they grow I have to bump the watts down as they get closer. Hence the first question.

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lower your watts and get them lights closer, listen to your instincts brother. 1000w's are only good at height with tall plants. Or on a rail mover.

so i have a quick question....in a 8x4 tent with 6.5 hieght which is better? 2 600s or 2 1000s with 800cfm fan.....when i say better i mean safer for the plants and better for yield/quality.
sorry to hijack but seemed good place to ask.

FamMan said:

so i have a quick question....in a 8x4 tent with 6.5 hieght which is better? 2 600s or 2 1000s with 800cfm fan.....when i say better i mean safer for the plants and better for yield/quality.
sorry to hijack but seemed good place to ask.

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1000s will get you a better yield for sure. Just use air cooled so you can get the lights closer to the plants and control the heat easier

thanx 707 i appreciate it

I'd stick with nothing smaller than 600W for a production grow.

Good air movement is essential to prevent bleaching, and I have found that higher humidity is also helpful.

Bleaching occurs when the plant can't transpire enough water from its leaves to stay cool. Air movement is very helpful, and humidity makes the air denser and able to carry away more heat.

707humboldt said:

1000s will get you a better yield for sure. Just use air cooled so you can get the lights closer to the plants and control the heat easier

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with light loss from the glass on the hoods wouldn't it be better to run bare bulb 600?

KarmaPaymentPlan said:

with light loss from the glass on the hoods wouldn't it be better to run bare bulb 600?

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Light loss from glass is so minimal imo, doesnt affect yield or quality. I have both setups, 1000w air cooled with glass and 1000w no glass and they both do the exact same. Not any thing I can notice any way. I get 2+ per light with both

707humboldt said:

Light loss from glass is so minimal imo, doesnt affect yield or quality. I have both setups, 1000w air cooled with glass and 1000w no glass and they both do the exact same. Not any thing I can notice any way. I get 2+ per light with both

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Word.
I started growing indoor before you could air cool lights like now. And no inline fans either or charcoal filters, etc. The invention of air cooled hoods really changed things for obvious reasons.
I choose to air cool my regular hps's when I can. It definately helps keep shit cool, and reduces power costs in a sealed GR. straight up.
Obviously if I lived in a cold climate, I wouldn't air cool though.

Aeroknow said:

Word.
I started growing indoor before you could air cool lights like now. And no inline fans either or charcoal filters, etc. The invention of air cooled hoods really changed things for obvious reasons.
I choose to air cool my regular hps's when I can. It definately helps keep shit cool, and reduces power costs in a sealed GR. straight up.
Obviously if I lived in a cold climate, I wouldn't air cool though.

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Sealed rooms are the only way to grow for me. I wouldn't do it any other way. Best way to control your environment to a T, add co2 and your killing it.

Found a good article on lighting ,

http://www.growweedeasy.com/lux-meter