Design in Progress, Looking for some Opinions. Please Help.

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operationkush

Member
The room I plan on using is 8x11x8 (L,W,H). I have 2 1000W HPS and will be using soil. They do not have the heat traps(the exhaust vents hooked up the the lights) or whatever they are called for the lights. The room has 2 large windows in it that are 4'x3' (H,W). I have been tossing around a few different ideas.

Idea 1 : I'm thinking of building a 8x4x7(L,W,H) room out of wood within this room. I will plywood the ceiling and both ends and leave the sides open for access. Of course the sides will be covered with some black/white poly to trap the light inside. I will have a big fan probably 400+cfm 6-8inch with a carbon filter for removing the hot air and controlling the RH. The filter will sit in between the two lights at the top of the room with the fan mounted outside the grow area of the frame with ducting running into a cold air return right into the furnace for the house. I dont have the option of using Y pipe and venting through the dryer exhaust with the layout. For fresh air I plan on just having the windows cracked open for a passive intake, or even leaving the door to the room open and just allowing the natural air from the house in.

Idea 2: Leave the whole room open and mount the lights right onto the ceiling. Seal off one window, build a wooden box to cover the other window with a 6 inch air intake, ducting and fan to pull fresh air in. Same concept with the carbon scrubber and cold air return into the furnace for heat control/ventilation. I have read bad things about venting the heat into the attic because I live in a cold climate (during winter) and often have snow on the roof. The hot air would melt the snow and cause unwanted attention.

My questions are both in regards to Idea 1

Does anyone think heat control will be an issue with 2 1000W HPS in such a small area?
Does anyone think this area is too small for 2 1000W and should I make the cabinet bigger? This is definitely an option with the size of the room.

Also, which idea does everyone like better? I am open to all suggestions, however I have germinated some Kush Seeds, have some Blueberry, and White Widow seeds coming from BCSEEDKING that should arrive sometime next week. Things are going to be moving along pretty quickly here soon so I need to get building! Open to all suggestions, money isn't really an issue in regards to building this room.
 
KcCrion

KcCrion

Member
Calculating Heat Load
Heat is measured in either BTU or Kilowatts. 1KW is equivalent to 3500BTUs.
The heat load depends on a number of factor's

1.The floor area of the room
2.The heat generated by equipment
3 the heat from lighting
4.The number of room occupants
5.The ambient temp ( your room's starting temp ) this will be added asap im still playing with the #'s

1.Floor Area of Room

Room Area BTU = L x W x 40 ( H = 8foot + 5btu per foot after that)

If you have a wall that is facing the sun add in for the extra heat

Sun facing wall BTU = L x H x 40

2.Equipment
This is trickier to calculate than you might think. The wattage on equipment is the maximum power consumption rating, the actual power consumed may be less. However it is safer to overestimate the wattage than underestimate it.

Equipment BTU = Total wattage for equipment x 3.5

Ballast in room BTU = ballast wattage/2 x 3.5

3.Lighting

Lighting BTU = Total wattage for all lighting x 4

Air cooled hood BTU = wattage x 4 / 2
@
400= 200-250 cfm
600= 250-300 cfm
1k = 300-350 cfm
^ is just a guide cfm per hood will be on your ducting/SP....

4.Occupants
even being that im only there for 2 or so of the 12 hrs i like it to be able to handle the extra sweat when i smoke one.

Total Occupant BTU = Number of occupants x 400

Total Cooling Required

Add all the BTUs together.

Total Heat Load = Room Area BTU + Total Occupant BTU + Equipment BTU + Lighting BTU

If your using a portable a/c

Total Heat Load BTU x 2

^this has been from threads on this site i dont have any real experince with portable a/c's other then one and it was not in a growroom but if you plan on getting one id think about one thats bigger then you thought about



sample

so if we have a 3 x 3 room with 1k and 200 watt's in fan's/pump's

for room we need 360 btu
for fan we need 700 btu
1k = 4000btu
ballast in the room = 1500 btu

we would need a/c that is 6560 btu i would round up to the next size 7kbtu


air exchange
aka intake/exhaust
complete air exchange every 4-5 minutes is average for a grow room/greenhouse (co2 control)....
for heat control (no a/c) i like to use 2.5 minutes {1M is best imo}
m=air exchange in min's

l x w x h = cf / m = cfm

lets use are room from above as a sample
3 x 3 x 8 = 72 /2.5 = 28.8 (30)
highend turn over = 72cfm
lowend turn over = 30cfm
now for the light 1k = 300-350cfm

exhaust system and air-cooled hood should be separated but most ppl cant/dont ( it's spendy) so add them together if your using 1 fan for both

the fan size we need is 330-422 remember you have duct loss (SP) in the sample room i would use a 440 cfm fan

SEER & EER ratings NO they are not the same.....

EER, or the Energy Efficient Ratio, is a measure of how efficiently a cooling system will operate when the outdoor temperature is at a specific level - usually 95°F. EER is calculated as a simple ratio of BTU's to the amount of power a unit consumes in watts. Here is an example using an air conditioner with 12,000 BTU's and consuming 1500 watts of power:

EER = BTU's / Watts

12,000 / 1500 = 8

EER = 8


While it is true that the higher the EER and BTU's, the more efficient the cooling system, many make the mistake of purchasing oversized air conditioners and ignoring EER ratings. The following is an example of an air conditioner with 12,000 BTU's and 1200 watts:

12,000 / 1200 = 10

EER =10

This would mean that this second unit can produce the same amount of cooling but more energy efficiently. Therefore, to save money on your monthly electric bill, choose a cooling system by getting an appropriately sized unit with a high EER.


SEER(seasonal energy efficiency ratio) measures how efficiently a residential central cooling system (air conditioner or heat pump) will operate over an entire cooling season, as opposed to a single outdoor temperature. As with EER, a higher SEER reflects a more efficient cooling system. SEER is calculated based on the total amount of cooling (in Btu) the system will provide over the entire season divided by the total number of watt-hours it will consume:

SEER = seasonal Btu of cooling / seasonal watt-hours used
 
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sarita99

Member
2000 watts is not a lot in the 8x11 space but probably too much in the 8x4 space. Why would you build a room within a room when you can just use the whole room? Setup #1 doesn't have any intake. Letting in stale house air, or opening the windows a crack hoping some air makes its way to your interior room is not enough. Plus, you end up with light leaks if you use curtains as walls. Setup #2 is better because you have fresh air intake. A 400 CFM may not be enough for top quality ventilation for that space.
 
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richinweed

Active Member
building a room in a room is the best first step to smell control, as u can vent into the airspace with your carbon can can type filter, from thier threw the ozonation or whatever final stage treatment you use...in apartments ive vented into big u-haul boxes and treated the smell in those before into the bulkhead between the floors....works awsome ...very very little odor by the final stage...onagel /fabreeze?
 
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operationkush

Member
sarita99 said:
2000 watts is not a lot in the 8x11 space but probably too much in the 8x4 space. Why would you build a room within a room when you can just use the whole room? Setup #1 doesn't have any intake. Letting in stale house air, or opening the windows a crack hoping some air makes its way to your interior room is not enough. Plus, you end up with light leaks if you use curtains as walls. Setup #2 is better because you have fresh air intake. A 400 CFM may not be enough for top quality ventilation for that space.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the help. I'll rework the design to something better.
 
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