dam thrips are back. any suggestions
- Thread starter edub760
- Start date
jd123
Well-Known Member
I rotate between spinosad and neem oil for my bug control both are considered natural I believe. I had thrips way out of control on some plants, don't see very many anymore. Both spinosad and neem should be safe up to week 3 or so of flowering, just don't spray directly on the buds or use in late flowering. Also blue sticky traps help kill the adults. One good thing I've noticed with my thrips is they won't touch any part if the plant with trichromes, so no effect on the actual buds. If they damage the leaves enough tho it could reduce yield.
intenseneal
Well-Known Member
Neem oil is great so is Fox Farm Dont Bug Me.
oldschooltofu
Well-Known Member
spinosad only way.
intenseneal
Well-Known Member
Umm Dont Bug Me worked great for me with only 2 treatments.
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
Get pythrium bombs and shut your fans off set the bomb off and stay away for 6hours then turn fans back on
and thrips are dead, that easy
and thrips are dead, that easy
hellraizer30
Rebel From The North
Thrips dont need direct contact of a agent to kill then, nor do they build a amunity to what you use!
spraying a infected plant will not ensure you got them all! Why bombs work so well on thrips.
and not so good on mites! Good luck anyhow
spraying a infected plant will not ensure you got them all! Why bombs work so well on thrips.
and not so good on mites! Good luck anyhow
HeartlandHank
Well-Known Member
Soooooo... the thing about thrips that makes them hard to eradicate is that they have stages both above AND below the soil line. Also, eggs that they insert into plant tissue. Treating above and below the soil line will make for an easy eradication.
Foliar sprays will be most effective at 5 day intervals... at least 3 applications. Spinosad is great and safe. Pyrethrin is safe and under light quickly breaks down to nothing that will effect your plants. 5 day spread of foliar applications is what most University studies of thrip greenhouse control will say is most effective at breaking the life cycle. IME, 5 day intervals work.
Thrips will lay their eggs under and in the lowest leaves on the plant, and the stem... they actually cut the leaf/stem tissue and insert the egg, partially... the larvae hatch from the egg and drop off the leaf/stem and down to the media. From there they will go down in the media, and then pupate into a the thrips you see on your plant, male and female, feeding and non feeding...
So as a piece to your control... you could remove some of the lowest leaves that are probably filled with eggs. Perhaps do this with your first foliar spray and drench.
As to the soil dwelling larvae...
Perhaps a good method would be Diat Earth on the soil line... the larvae would drop down in to a bed of DE and die, I would think...?
Soil drenches can be hard on your root system... so maybe one soil drench on your first spray day, then switch to DE sprinkled on the soil/media. I've never tried it, should work though.
Pyrethrin needs to be at a very high concentration to really be effective against larvae, in my experience. I do not like to use Azamax as a drench either. It destroys your roots even faster than a pyrethrin, like pyganic/evergreen. I;m not sure if it is even effective for thrip larvae.
BTi is a larvicide, and some would suggest it... but i was told once (from a credible local source) that bti is not very effective against thrip larvae...
SNS 203 is one soil drench I have been hearing many good things about. Next time I have soil pests... I'm trying it out. I cannot speak for its effectiveness as I have not used it yet. I was VERY impressed with their Spider Mite spray. All natural and actually works better than any other natural spider mite control. Better than Azamax/Azatrol. So, I have faith in the brand so far.
For veg/90+ days from harvest... i would just give a soil drench of imidacloprid along with spinosad foliar at 5 day intervals 4 times and be done with it... you're protected for easily 2 months, no pests. After you finish your flowering plants, you can move forward knowing you are pest free.
Thrips do have the ability to "overwinter" so monitoring for a return would be important.
Follow the steps of IPM if you continue to have problems.
http://extension.psu.edu/ipm/schools/educators/curriculum/contents/sixsteps
Good Luck.
Foliar sprays will be most effective at 5 day intervals... at least 3 applications. Spinosad is great and safe. Pyrethrin is safe and under light quickly breaks down to nothing that will effect your plants. 5 day spread of foliar applications is what most University studies of thrip greenhouse control will say is most effective at breaking the life cycle. IME, 5 day intervals work.
Thrips will lay their eggs under and in the lowest leaves on the plant, and the stem... they actually cut the leaf/stem tissue and insert the egg, partially... the larvae hatch from the egg and drop off the leaf/stem and down to the media. From there they will go down in the media, and then pupate into a the thrips you see on your plant, male and female, feeding and non feeding...
So as a piece to your control... you could remove some of the lowest leaves that are probably filled with eggs. Perhaps do this with your first foliar spray and drench.
As to the soil dwelling larvae...
Perhaps a good method would be Diat Earth on the soil line... the larvae would drop down in to a bed of DE and die, I would think...?
Soil drenches can be hard on your root system... so maybe one soil drench on your first spray day, then switch to DE sprinkled on the soil/media. I've never tried it, should work though.
Pyrethrin needs to be at a very high concentration to really be effective against larvae, in my experience. I do not like to use Azamax as a drench either. It destroys your roots even faster than a pyrethrin, like pyganic/evergreen. I;m not sure if it is even effective for thrip larvae.
BTi is a larvicide, and some would suggest it... but i was told once (from a credible local source) that bti is not very effective against thrip larvae...
SNS 203 is one soil drench I have been hearing many good things about. Next time I have soil pests... I'm trying it out. I cannot speak for its effectiveness as I have not used it yet. I was VERY impressed with their Spider Mite spray. All natural and actually works better than any other natural spider mite control. Better than Azamax/Azatrol. So, I have faith in the brand so far.
For veg/90+ days from harvest... i would just give a soil drench of imidacloprid along with spinosad foliar at 5 day intervals 4 times and be done with it... you're protected for easily 2 months, no pests. After you finish your flowering plants, you can move forward knowing you are pest free.
Thrips do have the ability to "overwinter" so monitoring for a return would be important.
Follow the steps of IPM if you continue to have problems.
http://extension.psu.edu/ipm/schools/educators/curriculum/contents/sixsteps
Good Luck.
BustinScales510
Well-Known Member
Spinosad has worked best for thrips when Ive had them, I use green light brand but probably all the same. Not sure how late you can use it but its just an organic enzyme that doesnt leave any odor or spotting so I imagine its fine for late use. I alternate that with neem oil or a light azamax/azatrol solution used a couple times during veg and have been pest free for a long time. I noticed that the pyrethin bombs burnt my plants,even when I set them far away.
mrcourios
Member
I had them and was switching between insecticidal soap,pyrethren and spinosad spraying the soil too and they kept coming back. After I bought some plant tape and tangle foot and put a band of it near the bottom of the main stalk the sprays finally finished them off and they couldn't get past the tangle foot.
Mr. Smithh
Member
Was wondering if Thrips burrow straight line through the leaves and then they start splitting at the line?