CXB3590 1500W

nogod_

nogod_

Well-Known Member
That's a nice price on the passive sinks especially if you don't have to pay to ship them.

1000w of 50% eff cxb3590 is overkill for a 120cm x 120cm tent. Even 4 of those 200w bars is more than enough to outdo the gavita by a significant margin.

The spread would be great with 100cm bars.

If my memory serves me correctly the gavita is something like 39% efficient so 610w waste heat vs 400w waste heat from 800w of led.

So significantly less heat. Especially if your ventilation is pulling heat off the fixture since cobs tend to heat up around the sink and not so much in the canopy.



CreeCobLED said:
Hey Supra

I have i dilemma, now i can get the heatsinks locally.

Now the dimensions are :
L:1000mm x W:100mm x H:40mm (Active) £32 each
L:1000mm x W:160mm x H:40mm (Passive) £48 each

Which ones should i go for ? dont forget i will be using 5 with 4 x 3590 on each.

I am thinking of using the 5 in 1200mm x 1200mm space which is half of the 2400mm x 1200mm tent and running one gavita on the other side for comparison and then hopefully swapping that side out to another 5 so i will have 40 x cobs running at 49-50% in the full space.

Now im hoping it wont be overkill and hoping the light spread will be uniform.

What do you think ?

Also what sort of heat will there be compared to the gavitas ?

Cheers
Click to expand...
 
DISTRESS0R

DISTRESS0R

Active Member
SupraSPL said:
@61.2%
(5) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.05A (35.5W ea) $237.50
(1) HLG-185H-C1050 $65
177.5 dissipation W -> 68.9W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 8268cm² -> 4.9"X36" $70
or
active cooled heatsink 2756cm² -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 + 80mm fan + psu $10
(5) lenses $20
108.63 PAR W covering 6ft² =
$392.50 = $3.61/PAR W passive cooled
$377.50 = $3.48/PAR W active cooled
Click to expand...
Hey Supra!
Just hoping you can provide some more information on the average PPFD of this configuration (this one was missing from your original list)
Im trying to decide if i run with a four cob setup at 1.4 or 5 cob at 1.05a to replace my 400w HPS in a 2x3 and hopefully can get a good idea once i get that number. From what i understand the most ideal PPFD reading is going to be between 800-900 for flowering, would that be correct? Cheerssss
 
BecauseIgotHigh

BecauseIgotHigh

Well-Known Member
Love my 200w cxa3590 5k and my 400w cxb 3590 3k. I got like 20 XPE FR chips as well, but don't need to build them as of yet.

400w cxb3590 .7a great light, however maybe going 1A would be better as the .7 light penetration to the canopy ain't great.... Good but could be better.

.7a is best when you have your girls are LST.
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
DISTRESS0R said:
Hey Supra!
Just hoping you can provide some more information on the average PPFD of this configuration (this one was missing from your original list)
Im trying to decide if i run with a four cob setup at 1.4 or 5 cob at 1.05a to replace my 400w HPS in a 2x3 and hopefully can get a good idea once i get that number. From what i understand the most ideal PPFD reading is going to be between 800-900 for flowering, would that be correct? Cheerssss
Click to expand...
I come up with 811 PPFD averaged for 6 sq ft. Yes that should treat you very well in you 2X3. Good luck!
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
BecauseIgotHigh said:
Love my 200w cxa3590 5k and my 400w cxb 3590 3k. I got like 20 XPE FR chips as well, but don't need to build them as of yet.
400w cxb3590 .7a great light, however maybe going 1A would be better as the .7 light penetration to the canopy ain't great.... Good but could be better.
.7a is best when you have your girls are LST.
Click to expand...
You can adjust for a tall canopy by increasing PPFD. So you could: increase current or run them even lower (350mA) and pack them in tighter. You could also use higher angle lenses or reflectors. I run mine at 500-700mA, no lenses on the center COBs and the ladies are as tall as 5.5 feet tall at times. I get about 18-24" of good bud in the upper canopy and strip out the lower branches, bend and side light any colas that try to get too tall. I also adjust the height of the heatsinks and the COBs are angled when necessary. Sounds like a like of work but I only spend a few minutes each month making adjustments.
 
DISTRESS0R

DISTRESS0R

Active Member
T
SupraSPL said:
I come up with 811 PPFD averaged for 6 sq ft. Yes that should treat you very well in you 2X3. Good luck!
Click to expand...
Thanks supra, I'm actually leaning towards 6 cobs now @ 1.05a, don't want to cook my herbs, would this be a more ideal PPFD? Thanks for your time on this one
 
DISTRESS0R

DISTRESS0R

Active Member
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
BecauseIgotHigh said:
Love my 200w cxa3590 5k and my 400w cxb 3590 3k. I got like 20 XPE FR chips as well, but don't need to build them as of yet.

400w cxb3590 .7a great light, however maybe going 1A would be better as the .7 light penetration to the canopy ain't great.... Good but could be better.

.7a is best when you have your girls are LST.
Click to expand...
CXB3590 running at .7A is 50W in this case? What should the best canopy depth not exceed?
 
BOBBY_G

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
CXB3590 running at .7A is 50W in this case? What should the best canopy depth not exceed?
Click to expand...

of course theres no one answer to that.

depends on your light intensity and distance.

in other words, if your canopy has 800 umol and you have your lights at 36" from top of canopy to get it, your canopy is going to be a lot deeper than if your lights are at 12" to get 800 umol (think of the ratio of say 48" vs 36" as opposed to 24" vs 12", in regard to inverse square law)
 
sforza

sforza

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
And there you would be wrong, Sir. I was provided with the answers I was looking for within hours from this very community, for which I'm not only eternally grateful- means shit, really- but I fully intend to return the favor with interest in terms of showing the community what they've helped me build- AND what she'll do when you take her out and give her all she'll take.

I invite you to have a good look at my thread and make up your own mind about who I am and what I'm about. Link at the bottom of every post.
Click to expand...
Depending on the kindness of strangers...
 
iceman3000

iceman3000

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
@CreeCobLED Thanks man, I would estimate 950 PPFD averaged for 2000W Gavita in your space, when the bulbs and reflectors are brand new. To match that with COBs in the same size space:

(5) HLG-185H-C1400A
(20) CXB3590 3500K CD

With drivers at max that would give you 875 PPFD averaged and should outyield the Gavita setup. LED dissipation would be about 1075W and power draw would be about 1150W with active cooled heatsinks.

For heatsinks you could use (5) 3.5"X40" bars with an 80mm fan in the center of each bar. You could put drivers on board the heatsinks or keep them all on a separate board. If you plan on dimming them often you could use HLG-185H-C1400B drivers with external POT dimmer. The A version has internal pot dimmer. Good luck with your build!
Click to expand...
HI guys & gals
this will be my last post on this topic need to know what everyone thinks
working with a 4x10 space for lights. 3 side enclosure
24 cxb 3590 hlg driver 120 1400 (3) cobs or 185 (4) cobs 90 reflectors

(1) run 3 cob space 16 inches depth and 8 bars 5.88 36 long space 15 inches width that's 4x10

(2) run 3 cob space 16 inches depth and 8 bars 5.88 36 long space 12 inches width that's 4x8

(3) run 4 cob space 12 inches depth and 6 bars 5.88 40 long space 16 inches width that's 4x8

this is the last decision i have to make befor i order the sinks will be running fan cooled

prefer to use the whole 4x10 from reading your post the width would be 19.2 so would that other 3/4 of a inch be a big deal if i took option (3) and pushed the width to 20 inches?

thanks for any input on the matter
iceman3000
 
Last edited:
BOBBY_G

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
I am guessing that lamp mentioned above is using CPU coolers and generic 1.4A drivers. If they are genuine CREE, decent drivers, decently cooled and you had enough vertical space to get that light to spread out, that light would probably do a very good job. You might want to inspect the quality of the wiring to make sure it is as safe as possible.

@ttystikk Regarding running soft and how it affects PPFD, running your COBs lower can allow you to achieve higher intensity and more evenly spread PPFD, if that is your design goal. (as @nogod_ mentioned) It is somewhat complex to determine that actual cost of each system. When you run soft it takes less drivers and less heatsink to get the same job done, so that reduces some of the extra cost of buying more COBs. There are the direct electrical savings and that depends on the cost of electricity where you are. It may open the door to using passive cooling if that appeals to you and that implies remote drivers and increased heatsink adjustability. It may open the door to a partially solar powered grow. It may be ideal for grows that are limited on vertical space or shelf systems.

Because of the reduction in heat, depending on your setup there may also be direct electrical savings in environmental/AC cost But the most compelling advantage is, can you increase your total yield by reducing your heat load? If so then the extra cost of high efficiency can pay for itself in days (as @nogod_ described) . That is why I run the COBs at 730mA (25W ea) or lower when dimmed. That said, there is some uncertainty about exactly how much efficiency we are really getting. When I tested current droop I did see efficiency improvements all the way down to 4W per COB, but when I tried to quantify I realized the droop curve is compressed compared to CREEs so the values are not absolute after all.
View attachment 3565758

So if you do run them at 25W ea or lower, it might be best to approach that as experimental. That is why I recommend most DIYers to run them at ~50W ea.
Click to expand...
the equations i extrapolated from this graph and Supras charts for a 3590 3500k CD bin are:

W = Dissipation wattage
I = current
E= efficiency

W=1.2425 * I^2 + 34.214 * I - 1.6752
E=0.8948 * I^2 - 13.203 * I + 73.234

which gives

I W E
0.1 1.758625 71.92265
0.15 3.484856 71.27368
0.2 5.2173 70.62919
0.25 6.955956 69.98918
0.3 8.700825 69.35363
0.35 10.45191 68.72256
0.4 12.2092 68.09597
0.45 13.97271 67.47385
0.5 15.74243 66.8562
0.55 17.51836 66.24303
0.6 19.3005 65.63433
0.65 21.08886 65.0301
0.7 22.88343 64.43035
0.75 24.68421 63.83508
0.8 26.4912 63.24427
0.85 28.30441 62.65794
0.9 30.12383 62.07609
0.95 31.94946 61.49871
1 33.7813 60.9258
1.05 35.61936 60.35737
1.1 37.46363 59.79341
1.15 39.31411 59.23392
1.2 41.1708 58.67891
1.25 43.03371 58.12838
1.3 44.90283 57.58231
1.35 46.77816 57.04072
1.4 48.6597 56.50361
1.45 50.54746 55.97097
1.5 52.44143 55.4428
1.55 54.34161 54.91911
1.6 56.248 54.39989
1.65 58.16061 53.88514
1.7 60.07943 53.37487
1.75 62.00446 52.86908
1.8 63.9357 52.36775
1.85 65.87316 51.8709
1.9 67.81683 51.37853
1.95 69.76671 50.89063
2 71.7228 50.4072
2.05 73.68511 49.92825
2.1 75.65363 49.45377
2.15 77.62836 48.98376
2.2 79.6093 48.51823
2.25 81.59646 48.05718
2.3 83.58983 47.60059
2.35 85.58941 47.14848
2.4 87.5952 46.70085
2.45 89.60721 46.25769
2.5 91.62543 45.819
2.55 93.64986 45.38479
2.6 95.6805 44.95505
2.65 97.71736 44.52978
2.7 99.76043 44.10899
 
BOBBY_G

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
bassman999 said:
This is a problem I prefer over the way around, Just lets me add more cobs, and I have a pair on the way
Click to expand...
with some extra driver headroom you dont need extra cobs. turn that shit up like freedom rock, man

looking at the HLG-240H-C datasheets, they are about as efficient at 70% as they are at 100% (91% eff@120V), and still 88-89% eff. at 30-60%

the HLG-185H-C can be dimmed down to below 50% with no drop in efficiency (93%), and as low as 30% and still be above 90% eff

thus if your design was based on an ultra efficient 0.7-1.05 A, if youre cool with 4 cobs per driver you can go with a 1.4A driver and crank up 30-90% more par watts when you want/need them.

think of a system that condenses down to use more cobs per square foot in a smaller canopy at a higher efficiency for the summer, then spread em out and crank em up in the winter.....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top