CXB3590 1500W

bassman999

Well-Known Member
Unfortunately CREE only gives us data down to 50W, the 25W data is extrapolated based on CXA3590 data, which does go down to 25W . Efficiency does increase significantly as you dim below 25W, but it seems impossible to quantify without an integrating sphere. These charts should give you some idea what is going on at the lower currents but the CXB3590 seems to droop a bit less:

CXA3590:
View attachment 3566152

CXB3070:
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So CXA3590 still more efficient than top bin CXB3070.
I see they are different spectra, so maybe hey are closer than I thought when I first looked..
 
Hey Supra

I have i dilemma, now i can get the heatsinks locally.

Now the dimensions are :
L:1000mm x W:100mm x H:40mm (Active) £32 each
L:1000mm x W:160mm x H:40mm (Passive) £48 each

Which ones should i go for ? dont forget i will be using 5 with 4 x 3590 on each.

I am thinking of using the 5 in 1200mm x 1200mm space which is half of the 2400mm x 1200mm tent and running one gavita on the other side for comparison and then hopefully swapping that side out to another 5 so i will have 40 x cobs running at 49-50% in the full space.

Now im hoping it wont be overkill and hoping the light spread will be uniform.

What do you think ?

Also what sort of heat will there be compared to the gavitas ?

Cheers
 

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
Hey Supra, i see you recommending 'lenses' in your configurations on page 2?

surprised to see this as i thought secondary optics were not all that popular amongst DIYers

what are you guys using typically (and why?)

im in a gorilla tent and would think wall reflectance would be where its at. reflectance isnt 100% but at least youre only atttenuating the light that bounces off the walls... not the 75%+ which strikes the canopy directly
 

sforza

Well-Known Member
You could run the pair of CXBs on an HLG-185H-C1050A. That would give you about 85W/COB.
Couldn't you run a pair of CXB3590 72 volt COBs on an HLG-120H-C1050A diver? I have five of these drivers left that I intend to use to power two pair of CXBs. Output is 148V so that should cover two 72 volt CXB3590s, correct? Or am I overlooking something?

Box of Meanwell Drivers.JPG
 

sforza

Well-Known Member
Wow I need to turn down my lights lol
LOL! I agree with your style, Realstyles. Spend less time calculating and more time building high powered DIY LED lights using lots of CXB3590 COBs.

Just like there is no substitute for cubic inches when it comes to automobiles, there is no substitute for light intensity when it comes to getting the most out of a grow space.

If energy were rationed, each person only getting a set amount of electricity per month, I could see being concerned about the difference between 56% efficient and 61% efficient, but since the power company will gladly send me all the electricity I am willing to pay for and it is relatively cheap, when compared to the going price of ganja, I am not too worried about achieving the ultimate in efficiency. But I only have a small grow area, so I guess it does not cost me very much to go overboard on lighting it up.
 
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sforza

Well-Known Member
If you can't show pics it didn't happen lol you should stay in the toke and talk threads and yes my lights are better than HPS and yes I have an ego. I'm very proud of my work and I'm gonna pull 2lb off 756 watts in a 4x4 tent 6 plants that was only vegged for 3 weeks and my 4x8 tent 1820watts will harvest 4+ a month after. I'm also strain hunting right now to breed lol. Some of you guys don't know what I'm really about. You think I'm a dick lol but I'm far from that. Just because I'm blunt and straight forward doesn't make me a dick, it makes me honest. Read my name REALSTYLES that means something. I don't have too lie

View attachment 3561261 View attachment 3561263 View attachment 3561265 View attachment 3561266View attachment 3561262
Not only is all that quite true, Realstyles, but you are also performing another very valuable contribution to the grower community. As your friend mentioned you are an inspiration to many, since as he put, if you can build a DIY LED light, than anybody can build a DIY light. The difference between you and many others is you seem to follow the Nike motto of "JUST DO IT!"
 
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sforza

Well-Known Member
I would like to caution people with high current drivers. People are generally scared of the voltage...because that is what gets the electricity through insulation(skin). And is a valid concern. But once it's through the insulation, it is the current that does the damage to the body. And even a small current 50ma "could" kill someone. That is why in general 100w is roughly the point between staying UL class2(residential safe) and class1(industrial/commercial). For all intents and purposes, no matter how you distribute the power(A*V=power), generally humans will be safe in most conditions.

Even everyone's favorite hlg185's aren't going to be class2.

I know it's easy and convenient to get one big ass driver...just know and understand what it's capable of other than just lighting up cobs. Don't be scared...just show respect for electricity.

Even a little zap hurts like a mother with DC. But more importantly, stay alive people.
I managed to zap myself with a 400 DC volts from a HLG185H-C500A while building a light. It did not feel too good, but not nearly so bad as getting hit with regular 110 Volt AC household current.
 

sforza

Well-Known Member
Well then, since I'm in no mood to become my own expert at DIY LED (I'm pretty damn covered up with what I'm already doing and I outsource the lighting equipment manufacturing as it is), perhaps someone else can provide more specific information?

Sorry man, but it's never a good idea to assume the other guy has plenty of free time to learn electronics from the ground up.

I'm a specialist, and I hire people like me who also specialize- in the jobs I need doing. It's called 'delegation of tasks' and it's a very helpful concept in 'project management'.

Anyone else?
I guess you get what you pay for and you are not paying anything for the information, thus...
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I guess you get what you pay for and you are not paying anything for the information, thus...
And there you would be wrong, Sir. I was provided with the answers I was looking for within hours from this very community, for which I'm not only eternally grateful- means shit, really- but I fully intend to return the favor with interest in terms of showing the community what they've helped me build- AND what she'll do when you take her out and give her all she'll take.

I invite you to have a good look at my thread and make up your own mind about who I am and what I'm about. Link at the bottom of every post.
 

DISTRESS0R

Active Member
How are you guys calculating these COB builds to directly replace your current HPS setups? For example I am running a 400w HPS currently and am interested in understanding how you measure a COB layout to match in performance in the same said space. I apologize in advance if this has already been discussed
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
How are you guys calculating these COB builds to directly replace your current HPS setups? For example I am running a 400w HPS currently and am interested in understanding how you measure a COB layout to match in performance in the same said space. I apologize in advance if this has already been discussed
My own calculations led me to a configuration of 4 CXB3590 driven at fifty watts each, for an efficiency rating of 56%. This is on PAR (pun intended!) with 400W worth of HPS or about one 315W CDM/CMH/LEC lamp. Several makers of COB LED fixtures use this very configuration in their units.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
How are you guys calculating these COB builds to directly replace your current HPS setups? For example I am running a 400w HPS currently and am interested in understanding how you measure a COB layout to match in performance in the same said space. I apologize in advance if this has already been discussed
Yep, 200W as described above should more than replace a 400 HPS.
 

DISTRESS0R

Active Member
I'm planning to mod a bloombox by removing the HPS fixture and replacing with a cob setup in the hopes of improving light spread, temperature, humidity and energy cost.
The heat sink distance from the canopy is going to have to remain in a fixed position inside the bloombox. How integral is adjusting height for a full grow cycle in a roughly 1 metre tall space? Cheers
 
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