CXB3590 1500W

littlejacob · Aug 30, 2015

Bonjour
Thank,cause I am looking for it and it seem not available ATM. And it will be interesting if it is 20% more expensive than the 185's,not more... (and I need 5 more 3590's,so it would be great for me,and for those who wants to have 9 cobs in a 3x3!)
Have a great day™

SaltyNuts · Aug 30, 2015

ttystikk said:
That's pretty much what I'm building a module with, yes. I didn't come up with this combo, it just seems to be the one that fits my needs best.

I'm still not really clear on how the driver current/voltage rating work as applied. I'm just aping what I read here. Do you think the 72V 240W HLG-240H-C700 could run three 72V CXB3590 in the range of 23W to 85W?

ttystikk · Aug 30, 2015

SaltyNuts said:
I'm still not really clear on how the driver current/voltage rating work as applied. I'm just aping what I read here. Do you think the 72V 240W HLG-240H-C700 could run three 72V CXB3590 in the range of 23W to 85W?

I'm an applications specialist. For answers on the viability of various combinations of these parts, I'm not the guy...

spidyshan · Aug 30, 2015

SaltyNuts said:
I'm still not really clear on how the driver current/voltage rating work as applied. I'm just aping what I read here. Do you think the 72V 240W HLG-240H-C700 could run three 72V CXB3590 in the range of 23W to 85W?

The HLG-240h-c700 is not available for sale yet, but it can power 5x72v cxb3590 from 23w to 50w max. If you want to run three or four cobs still you can only run them between 23w and 50w each. Hope this helps

Hereseed · Aug 30, 2015

Hey guys...
Lots of interesting projects coming together... I'll be glued on for all that action!

Saw a post in the 3070 thread mentioning the 10w 730 nm ir leds from kiwi lighting... Real interested in the concept of putting the girls to bed faster . how many of those would be needed for a 3x3 and what driver would you recommend? What about the spacing?

Really liked the suggestions you provided me,SUPRA .

Been eyeing the mean well 240h- 36... Would that sucker run 5 3070's comfortably?

SaltyNuts · Aug 30, 2015

ttystikk said:
I'm an applications specialist. For answers on the viability of various combinations of these parts, I'm not the guy...

Applications Specialist, I like that. Sounds MilSpec. That could replace Power User. :blsmoke:

Myself, I just rely on persistence :wall:

EfficientWatt · Aug 30, 2015

Hi there,

240H-C is available, or will be very soon, I got a quote from an offical UK distributor, over a month ago :
see my previous post in DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

spidyshan said:
The HLG-240h-c700 is not available for sale yet, but it can power 5x72v cxb3590 from 23w to 50w max. If you want to run three or four cobs still you can only run them between 23w and 50w each. Hope this helps

EDIT : @Hereseed : Yes, that's the idea : 5 cobs @~49W with HLG 240H-C is a great match.

SaltyNuts · Aug 30, 2015

spidyshan said:
The HLG-240h-c700 is not available for sale yet, but it can power 5x72v cxb3590 from 23w to 50w max. If you want to run three or four cobs still you can only run them between 23w and 50w each. Hope this helps

Is there a 36V-72V driver made that can power two CXB3590 from 23W to 85W?

EfficientWatt · Aug 30, 2015

Any MW B type dimmable driver that will run your cobs @85W, can be dimmed to what ever value you want..

Just check driver efficiency curve in driver datasheet to see how much driver losses you'll get.

I don't like the idea of having to dim much under 50% for regular/standard use. Although hlg's do maintain more than decent efficiencies, even at lower % operation.
Some don't like the idea of having a cob capable of >100W operation to max out at 'only" 49W per cob. It's all upto you.

But do keep in mind that if you want to give yourself the option of running very them very hard, you'll need more drivers, more cooling power (passive cooled might not be an affordable option anymore) so ultimately more $$$ per cob.

:peace:

SaltyNuts said:
Is there a 36V-72V driver made that can power two CXB3590 from 23W to 85W?

ttystikk · Aug 30, 2015

SaltyNuts said:
Applications Specialist, I like that. Sounds MilSpec. That could replace Power User.

Myself, I just rely on persistence

That is the main requirement. That, and the willingness to keep making new and different mistakes all the time. Most people get tired of that kind of punishment and just settle on a style and run it...

ttystikk · Aug 30, 2015

EfficientWatt said:
Any MW B type dimmable driver that will run your cobs @85W, can be dimmed to what ever value you want..

Just check driver efficiency curve in driver datasheet to see how much driver losses you'll get.

I don't like the idea of having to dim much under 50% for regular/standard use. Although hlg's do maintain more than decent efficiencies, even at lower % operation.
Some don't like the idea of having a cob capable of >100W operation to max out at 'only" 49W per cob. It's all upto you.

But do keep in mind that if you want to give yourself the option of running very them very hard, you'll need more drivers, more cooling power (passive cooled might not be an affordable option anymore) so ultimately more $$$ per cob.

There are... other alternatives for active heat removal. I'm about to put my wallet where my mouth is and put one to the test.

And to think most people just stick their feet in their mouths... lol

SaltyNuts · Aug 30, 2015

EfficientWatt said:
Any MW B type dimmable driver that will run your cobs @85W, can be dimmed to what ever value you want..
Just check driver efficiency curve in driver datasheet to see how much driver losses you'll get.

ok, I think I get it, the driver loses efficiency as the total load decreases, and this curve is represented on the Efficiency vs Load graph on the datasheet.
The more I look, the more it makes sense to have more chips, running softly, despite the up front cost in cobs.

ttystikk · Aug 30, 2015

SaltyNuts said:
ok, I think I get it, the driver loses efficiency as the total load decreases, and this curve is represented on the Efficiency vs Load graph on the datasheet.
The more I look, the more it makes sense to have more chips, running softly, despite the up front cost in cobs.

There's a potential thermal runaway effect as well in poorly cooled chips; the hotter they run, the less efficient they are, leading to generating more heat and getting even hotter...

SaltyNuts · Aug 30, 2015

ttystikk said:
There's a potential thermal runaway effect as well in poorly cooled chips; the hotter they run, the less efficient they are, leading to generating more heat and getting even hotter...

Thanks guys for the pointers. I originally had this idea to run a module softly (like two 3590's at 23W) for the efficiency but be able to crank power to 80%+ at will, (the heat might even be welcome in a cold setting). But to achieve that range in multiple arrays then you need more drivers, the driver efficiency drops sharply after 40% current which detracts from the cob efficiency at low power, and potential thermal runaway probably brings up a host of problems if driving 3070/3590 cobs to that 80W+ range. Yeah, so, bad idea. I did learn something though. If I'm gonna copy someone, I wanna know why!

I really like the idea of the four or five cob module at 23W-50W range, but double the cobs at a fixed 23W 64% efficiency makes me kinda drool a little.

:peace:

ttystikk · Aug 30, 2015

SaltyNuts said:
Thanks guys for the pointers. I originally had this idea to run a module softly (like two 3590's at 23W) for the efficiency but be able to crank power to 80%+ at will, (the heat might even be welcome in a cold setting). But to achieve that range in multiple arrays then you need more drivers, the driver efficiency drops sharply after 40% current which detracts from the cob efficiency at low power, and potential thermal runaway probably brings up a host of problems if driving 3070/3590 cobs to that 80W+ range. Yeah, so, bad idea. I did learn something though. If I'm gonna copy someone, I wanna know why!

I really like the idea of the four or five cob module at 23W-50W range, but double the cobs at a fixed 23W 64% efficiency makes me kinda drool a little.

I think you're cheating... like you have an electronics background you haven't copped to yet or something, lol j/k! Clearly, you're getting this a lot quicker than I am!

What would be completely perfect for me would be one chip per square foot, right around 900 PPfD and 60%+ efficient. Can't lose driver efficiency, either...

SaltyNuts · Aug 30, 2015

ttystikk said:
I think you're cheating... like you have an electronics background you haven't copped to yet or something, lol j/k! Clearly, you're getting this a lot quicker than I am!

What would be completely perfect for me would be one chip per square foot, right around 900 PPfD and 60%+ efficient. Can't lose driver efficiency, either...

haha! I've been trying to make it make sense so I can apply it. This is a really helpful forum!

I'm looking forward to the hlg-240C700 so I can run nine 3590's at 23W over a 4x4, or even double down on another 240 so I could crank that bad boy to 10 chips at 50W max!
For optimal optimimumness never settle!

BigYellowCob · Aug 30, 2015

Hereseed said:
Hey guys...
Lots of interesting projects coming together... I'll be glued on for all that action!

Saw a post in the 3070 thread mentioning the 10w 730 nm ir leds from kiwi lighting... Real interested in the concept of putting the girls to bed faster . how many of those would be needed for a 3x3 and what driver would you recommend? What about the spacing?

Really liked the suggestions you provided me,SUPRA .

Been eyeing the mean well 240h- 36... Would that sucker run 5 3070's comfortably?

If you're up for making your own 'flower initiator' with far red LEDs, there's a thread for that:

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-far-red-thread.867665/

I just built one using a 12v wall wart, 12v timer relay, 3 Cree Far Red LEDs and a small driver. You don't need a lot of wattage - I used about 5 watts for a 4.5 sq ft space. I'd guess 10-15 watts would work for you. If you build your own you can spread the LEDs out to get better coverage across the canopy. I used thermal epoxy to glue the stars to a 2" x 36" piece of aluminum from Lowes.

Hereseed · Aug 31, 2015

BigYellowCob said:
If you're up for making your own 'flower initiator' with far red LEDs, there's a thread for that:

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-far-red-thread.867665/

I just built one using a 12v wall wart, 12v timer relay, 3 Cree Far Red LEDs and a small driver. You don't need a lot of wattage - I used about 5 watts for a 4.5 sq ft space. I'd guess 10-15 watts would work for you. If you build your own you can spread the LEDs out to get better coverage across the canopy. I used thermal epoxy to glue the stars to a 2" x 36" piece of aluminum from Lowes.

@ BYC Appreciate the heads up on that thread...and thanks again to you SUPRA for another awesome resource!

I've managed to get my shopping list and design for flowering on lock thanks to you guys!!!

Now on to veg! ... I'm limited to a shelf style setup, so what's the general consensus.... Vero 10's or the cree xpl's?
Looking to fill a 1x2 passively ,so heatsink profiles suggestions would be welcomed... Would love a dimmable driver as well - the few I looked at were high... I'd pay it if necessary, but for such a small area, I was hoping you guys had a less expensive solution.

Plus... Have you guys seen the YouTube video by a guy called: growurmeds... Google: gamechanger diy led 1000w... Tell me what you guys think of that design?

bicit · Aug 31, 2015

SaltyNuts said:
haha! I've been trying to make it make sense so I can apply it. This is a really helpful forum!

I'm looking forward to the hlg-240C700 so I can run nine 3590's at 23W over a 4x4, or even double down on another 240 so I could crank that bad boy to 10 chips at 50W max!
For optimal optimimumness never settle!

I'm waiting for my heatsink to get here. I've got 8, 36v 3590's and an HLG-185H-C700B to play with

. 186 watts of high efficiency photon discharge with no moving parts. Aiming for 700+ppfd in a gorilla tent.

mrandersonnen · Aug 31, 2015

SupraSPL said:
Here are some units you could scale up to fit your space. To some extent, you can adjust the coverage by adjusting the distance to canopy.

@43.3%
(4)Vero 29 3500K @ 1.4A (51W ea) $112
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 $65
202 dissipation W -> 114.5W heat ->
active cooled heatsink 4590 cm² -> 3.5"X36" $45 + 80mm fan+psu $10
(4) lenses $16
87.4 PAR W covering about 5ft² = 783 PPFD
$248 = $2.84/PAR W

@45.7%
(2) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 2.5A (91.65W ea) $95
(2) HLN-80H-36A $90
183 dissipation W -> 99.37W heat
(2) Arctic 64 Plus CPU coolers $26
(2) lenses $8
83.63 PAR W covering 5 ft² = 749 PPFD
$219 = 2.62/PAR W

@49.7%
(2) CXB3590 3500K CD 72V @ 1.05A (75.5W ea) $95
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 (running at ~1050mA) $65
151 dissipation W -> 76W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 9120cm² -> (2) 10"X10" heatsink $75
or
active cooled heatsink 3040 cm² min -> 3.5" X 30" heatsink (for spread) $40 + 80mm fan+psu $10
or
(2) Arctic 64 Plus CPU coolers $26
(2) lenses $8
75 PAR W covering 4ft² = 840 PPFD
75 PAR W covering 5ft² = 672 PPFD
$243 = $3.24/PAR W passive cooled
$218 = $2.91/PAR W active cooled on bar heatsink
$194 = $2.59/PAR W active cooled on CPU coolers (uniform spread, best value?)

@ 56.3%
(4) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.4A (49W ea) $190
(1) HLG-185H-C1400 $65
196 dissipation W -> 85.7W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 10284cm² -> 5.88" X 38" heatsink $72 (could split in 2 to improve uniformity/spread)
or
active cooled heatsink 3428cm² min -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 +80mm fan +psu $10
(4) lenses $16
110.3 PAR W covering 6ft² = 824 PPFD
$311 = $3.07/PAR W passive cooled (great value point IMO, very efficient use of driver)
$326 = 2.96/PAR W active cooled

@61.2%
(5) CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.05A (35.5W ea) $237.50
(1) HLG-185H-C1050 $65
177.5 dissipation W -> 68.9W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 8268cm² -> 4.9"X36" $70
or
active cooled heatsink 2756cm² -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 + 80mm fan + psu $10
(5) lenses $20
108.63 PAR W covering 6ft² =
$392.50 = $3.61/PAR W passive cooled
$377.50 = $3.48/PAR W active cooled

@64%
(8 ) CXB3590 3500K CD @ 700mA (23W ea) $380
(1) HLG-185H-C700 $65
184 dissipation W ->66W heat ->
passive cooled heatsink 7920cm² -> 4.23"X44" $68 (could split these into 2 or 4 units)
or
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 3.5"X36" heatsink (for spread) $45 + 80mm fan + psu $10
active cooled heatsink 2640cm² -> 1.8"X44" heatsink $34 + 80mm fan + psu $10
(8 ) lenses $32
117.8 PAR W covering 6ft² = 879 PPFD
117.8 PAR w covering 7ft² = 754 PPFD
$545 = $4.63/PAR W passive cooled (great option if your area is high electrical cost, Hawaii, NYC, SoCal etc or if your grow is already heat limited and you want to increase yield without running more AC, ducting and fans)
$532 = $4.52/PAR W active cooled 3.5"
$521 = $4.43/PAR W active cooled 1.8"

So in summary, the higher the efficiency goes, the more appealing passive cooling is. Less wires, less moving parts, less points of failure for about the same cost.

I love this post and this information is pure gold. I've got a smaller tent - 5 sqft- i'm super concerned about heat and a bit cost sensitive, can you (or other forum DIYers) recommend a 3 COB setup for me? i'd be much appreciated

CXB3590 1500W

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