CXB3590 1500W
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
How many watts is that driving each COB at, then? I'm assuming you did it for a high efficiency number? Do you know what it is?
dionysus4
Well-Known Member
cool tnx
so 400mA is about 29w per cob
any reason not to use the 350mA version then?
any word on the lumen per watt/eff % @400mA?
thanks supra
alesh
Well-Known Member
Which bin are they?
dionysus4
Well-Known Member
cd
alesh
Well-Known Member
Should be just under 64% according to Supra.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Yes I was aiming for about 23W ea. They are CXB3590 3000K CB bin 72V, so @ 350mA they are 58.7% efficient typical. If they were 3500K CD bin that would be 64% typical.
That said, I suspect the actual efficiency and efficacy of those two options are closer to each other in practice.
I was thinking the same thing so I could run 8 on each driver, but they do not make an HLG-185H-C350, probably because the voltage would be getting up in the 525V range. I do use the HLG-120H-C350 for vegging, running at 430V, apparently that is as high as they want to go. There is another option, using the 36V version of the CXB3590s you can use the HLG-185H-C700 and run 8 COBs at 23W ea.
@400mA the CXB3590 72V would dissipate about 26.5W ea. The 3000K CB would be ~58% 187lm/W and the 3500K CD would be ~63% 204lm/W
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dionysus4
Well-Known Member
that spun me out for a bit then i realised its practically the same thing as running the 72v off the HLG-185H-C350(hypothetical driver)
so using the c500 and letting it adjjust to 400mA seems like a good option to run 6
then id do 12 cobs per m2 @ 400mA 64872L? mmm perhaps on the low side
wold it be better to spring for 3 drivers per m? say 700mA or 500?
Im getting the 50 pack off arrow for 4m2 so plan to underdrive them and have 2 left over for veg area prob just get a fastetch driver for those
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SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
@dionysus4
If you went with (6) HLG-185H-C500 drivers and (36) 3500K 72V COBs @ 400ma (26.5W) in 3m² canopy:
36 COBs * 26.5W = 954 dissipation W
954 * .63 efficiency = 601 PAR W
601 * .9 lens/reflector/wall losses = 541 PAR W
541 / 3m² = 180.3 PAR W /m²
180.3 * 4.65 = 839 PPFD averaged
A more value based option, if you went with (5) HLG-185H-C700 and 20 3500K 72V COBs @ 700mA (49W) in a 3m² canopy:
20 COBs * 49W = 980 dissipation W
980 * .563 efficiency = 552 PAR W
552 * .9 lens/reflector/wall losses = 497 PAR W
497 / 3m² = 166 PAR W /m²
166 * 4.65 = 770 PPFD averaged
If you went with (6) HLG-185H-C500 drivers and (36) 3500K 72V COBs @ 400ma (26.5W) in 3m² canopy:
36 COBs * 26.5W = 954 dissipation W
954 * .63 efficiency = 601 PAR W
601 * .9 lens/reflector/wall losses = 541 PAR W
541 / 3m² = 180.3 PAR W /m²
180.3 * 4.65 = 839 PPFD averaged
A more value based option, if you went with (5) HLG-185H-C700 and 20 3500K 72V COBs @ 700mA (49W) in a 3m² canopy:
20 COBs * 49W = 980 dissipation W
980 * .563 efficiency = 552 PAR W
552 * .9 lens/reflector/wall losses = 497 PAR W
497 / 3m² = 166 PAR W /m²
166 * 4.65 = 770 PPFD averaged
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
You can see the PPFD formula demonstrated above. Slightly different if you are working with your canopy in sq ft you just have to convert from sq ft to sq m (multiply by 10.76)
This thread has most of the efficiency sheets in one place. Once you know the dissipation W and efficiency of a COB at each drive current, you can get an idea what drive current you think is a good compromise for your setup. It is good to look at the $/PAR W column also because cost does not increase linearly at lower drive currents. On top of that higher efficiency setups require less driver and less heatsink to do the same job, so that decreases the cost of efficiency further. Very high efficiency opens the door to using passive cooling which can de-clutter the canopy a bit and simpler systems are more robust. Nothing wrong with active cooling though it is a very good value and I would not call it unreliable or cluttered, mostly a matter of preference.
Then you can design the system your ideal PPFD range. Lower PPFD is more photosynthetically efficient and easier to keep canopy temps in the idea range, higher PPFD is more space efficient and probably easier to trim the buds.
Currently I think running the CXB3590s at 50W is a good value point and makes an amazing lamp. 56.3% efficiency at these prices is a very good outcome and an excellent performing lamp. Running softer than that IMO is for growers who are experimenting, have money to burn or are fighting heat in their climate. Either way you might find yourself dimming them quite a bit. I dim in the first week of flower and during the last week or so. I dim if I get a heat wave or if they fade too early (when I fail to get enough fertility in experimental soil batches).
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WwW1962
Well-Known Member
Hey Supra, i got it up and running like a lighthouse in the dark.
don't wanna bomb your thread with pics, so i bombed Growmau's thread.
it's very very bright now , turned the pot up to 75watts and was blind for a few minutes
thank you man ,thank you so much
next project will be shutting out the boxed LED companies 
WwW
don't wanna bomb your thread with pics, so i bombed Growmau's thread.
it's very very bright now , turned the pot up to 75watts and was blind for a few minutes
thank you man ,thank you so much
next project will be shutting out the boxed LED companies WwW
WwW1962
Well-Known Member
soon as i get some results Salty, i'll be sure to let you know ..running @ 45 watts 73f, so far.... im watching the leaves reaction to how much lightto make them pray..finding the sweetspot
as you said..running cold with 19 XM-L2 U2-4C 1100LM 4300-4500K LED Emitter on 20mm Base Board10W / 3.5-3.7V / 2-3A with 1 HLG-120H-C1400B and 100k pot for adjustment
Shredderthirty
Well-Known Member
so i'm about to order stuff real soon, you talking about the cxb3590 at 36v or 72v, and you still mean to run them with the hlg-185h-c700?
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Hey man, had some less than spectacular results due to summer heat, dehumidifier running and failed no-till experiment (underfert, very early fading). I spent a lot of time this summer playing with the motorcycle and somewhat neglected managing the tents. No biggy though I am very grateful to be healthy enough to carve some mountain roads and the exercise does me good. The Ace of Spades didnt mind the slightly warmer canopy but the Starkillers, Kandy Kush and especially the SSSDH did not appreciate it. They took 10 weeks to finish, less density, less frosting and flavor. Ended up with 1.34gpw or 1.14gpw adjusted to 8.5 weeks.
So I realized I had to get on it and took some steps, new hunter ceiling fans to increase air circulation, cranked up ventilation fans from low to med (duh), changed out the carbon, hooked up the cold air intake, searched out and fixed air leaks and blocked flaps in the tents. Now tent #2 is cranked up to full power and canopy temp ~78 with no AC. Luckily the next batch is back to dank. Every one of them looked great and finished up 58-63 days. Now I know I have to keep the canopy under 80F next summer no matter what it takes.
Also I gave up on the no-till method, my buckets are probably too small for that. I decided to stop watering organic nutes (fish hydrolysate/chicken manure) because as they break down may be choking off the roots a bit with CO2. Instead I have been bubbling them first to try and get them broken down more. I reamended the next 2 batches of soil and mixed up a new batch of soil from scratch to get more in the rotation. Should be much better now and I will get some pics soon
So I realized I had to get on it and took some steps, new hunter ceiling fans to increase air circulation, cranked up ventilation fans from low to med (duh), changed out the carbon, hooked up the cold air intake, searched out and fixed air leaks and blocked flaps in the tents. Now tent #2 is cranked up to full power and canopy temp ~78 with no AC. Luckily the next batch is back to dank. Every one of them looked great and finished up 58-63 days. Now I know I have to keep the canopy under 80F next summer no matter what it takes.
Also I gave up on the no-till method, my buckets are probably too small for that. I decided to stop watering organic nutes (fish hydrolysate/chicken manure) because as they break down may be choking off the roots a bit with CO2. Instead I have been bubbling them first to try and get them broken down more. I reamended the next 2 batches of soil and mixed up a new batch of soil from scratch to get more in the rotation. Should be much better now and I will get some pics soon
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ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Setbacks are what test our skills. Looks like you're setting up to come back hard!
medicinehuman
Well-Known Member
Can't wait to see some pictures, there's never enough of them. I did some camping this summer and my plants didn't like to be neglected for a week in hot weather.
Shredderthirty
Well-Known Member
oh well since i have the hlg-185h-c700 i will need to run the 72V to get proper efficiency and run 4 of them. but if i run 8 of the 36V it will be just as "bright" but just spread the lighting out? and be just as efficient?
i was thinking that more cobs is better with the same amount of watts going to all of them, like having multiple 600w hps lights compared to a 1000w bulb...
edit
h and i was planning on passively cooling the unit so that is also why i was thinking 8 of the 36V will be alright running with no fan and the 4 of the 72V would really want some kind of active cooling