Companion planting?

so i was reading this forum and you guys and girls were saying that growing the mary jane with herbs help with odor my question is i have one plant that im gona start growing and if i grew mint with it that it would totally cover up the smell? im growing my strain in an aerogarden and figure if i mix another herb with it to mask the smell i wouldn't have to worry about odor. Please let me know what you think?

marigold are supposed to suppresses nasty nematodes in the soil and apparently chrysanthemum plants (which produce pyrethrum) will repel insects as well. Any strong smelling flowering herb will probably be beneficial as a companion because they tend to attract beneficial insects and repel bad ones. Also planting native plants in your garden will have a beneficial effect on your soil and attract native beneficial insects.

Although I don't have any experience with ganja and companion planting, I have used it extensively in my organic gardens quite successfully. For example, I have a raised bed of a variety of salad greens that tend to make nice targets for the bugs. However, I planted the entire perimeter of the bed with bunching onions or chives, placed marigolds every foot along the edges and in the middle, and planted mini rows of basil and cilantro between my greens. The effect has been no need to do any pest control, only a few little bites out of my crops and rampant growth. Remember that plants in nature tend to grow in communities with alot of species diversity, so they are used to lots of neighbors and many of those relationships are beneficial.

I would like to clarify one thing here, planting smelly or tasty herbs will not result in crossbreeding or those herbs lending their smell or taste to your finished buds. Companion planting is about quite a few things, most already mentioned here previously: attracting beneficial insects, detering harmful insects, disease resistance, enhanced overall plant growth both root and vegetative, better nutrient uptake, and better tasting fruits, and more life in the soil. Not all companions will do all these things, sometimes a companion will only serve one function, but there are some companions that are really great together. One example is tomatos and basil. When planted together(the closer the better) their roots interweave and they help each other out in every way I listed above. Now what would be awesome is to find the "basil" for ganja, that magic partner for it.

As for marigolds suppressing nematodes, that is true but you must make sure to get "nematodical marigolds", they are a subspecies, not all marigolds control nematodes. You can get them from seeds of change is one source I know of. Another good nematode control i have used in organic outdoor garden beds is heavily planting mustard greens in the infected bed. Allow them to grow through most of their life cycle and then till them into the soil and let decompose, the mustards should wipe em out. Hopefully some outdoor guerilla might find that useful in reclaiming a favorite patch that has been invaded with nematodes.

Funny that in the billions of hours of research done on growing ganja that there doesn't seem to be much of any info out there on ganja companions. will the doctor please speak up!

Any type of legume(beans, peas, peanuts, clover, etc) will fix additional nitrogen into the soil, which our plants need for lush green growth. These can be grown alongside the plants, and clover is often grown as a cover crop after harvest and tilled in for use as a "green manure".

Alfalfa improves the quality of any soil it is grown in, increasing aeration, drainage, and nutrient vailability. It's great for rocky, compacted soil, or if you aren't into digging two feet deep garden beds in rocky glacial soil(it's really quite close to impossible without power equipment of some sort). Alfalfa roots have been known to burrow through rocks, concrete, and iron. This would be great to plant either very early in the year, or
the year beforehand, and then the fully grown alfalfa can be composted or tilled in as another source of nitrogen. Alfalfa is also said to have plant growth regulators that improve other plants' growth and health. These are available whether composted or simply tilled in.

Garlic contains a systemic pesticide and fungicide, and can be grown alongside your plants in very close proximity, and the beneficial compounds will enter the plant tissue of your plants. You can also add finely chopped fresh garlic to your teas for foliar application and the antifungal and insecticidal properties will be active. It's good to know that many of the active constituents exist as a result of chemical reactions between compounds stored within the garlic that were previously separate until the cells' integrity was destroyed by crushing or chopping. The chemical reactions between the various compounds in the garlic subside shortly after mixing, so it's important to use it immediately after crushing. For this reason, dried or minced garlic is not nearly as effective as fresh.

This is all I've got for now, but the link in my sig has some info on companion planting in other types of garden, and much of the info will pertain to us as well.

The following plants will help attract insects that prey on some of the insects that like to eat our girls: Taken from http://www.grinningplanet.com/2005/0...ol-article.htm

Pests: Whiteflies, aphids, thrip, spider mites.
Predatory insect: Dicyphus.
Plants that will attract this:

1. Foxglove. The flowers attract the predators, but this does not flower until the second year. Probably better to get one from a garden center.

2. Mullein. This plant attracts the beneficial insects, but also is well known for being a smoking herb. It is actually known to prevent and treat pulmonary problems, as well as useful as a remedy for cough when smoked. It is generally flavorless when smoked, and if smoked with your weed, will almost nullify any coughing from the hit. Excellent for use in a six-footer.

Pests: Thrips, spidermites, fungus gnats.
Predatory insect: Beneficial mites.
Plants to attract these:

1. Shasta Daisy

2. Sunflower

Pests: Thrips, aphids, mites, scales, whiteflies.
Predatory insect: Pirate bugs.
Plants to attract these:

1. Shasta Daisy

2. Sunflowers.

The following plants either help with soil structure, add nutrients to soil, or help repel pests. I had paraphrased and added some info to these, but that was an hour ago and I lost that post when attempting to post it. Here is a simple copied and pasted version from http://www.ghorganics.com/page2.html .

ALFALFA: Perennial that roots deeply. Fixes the soil with nitrogen, accumulates iron, magnesium, phosphorous and potassium. Withstands droughts with it's long taproot and can improve just about any soil! Alfalfa has the ability to break up hard clay soil and can even send its' roots through rocks! Now that is a tenacious plant! Alfalfa is practically pest and disease free. It needs only natural rainfall to survive.


BEANS: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed form the air. In general they are good company for carrots, celery, chards, corn, eggplant, peas, potatoes, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry and cucumbers. Great for heavy nitrogen users like corn and grain plants. French Haricot beans, sweet corn and melons are a good combo. Summer savory deters bean beetles and improves growth and flavor. Keep beans away from the alliums.

BEET: Good for adding minerals to the soil. The leaves are composed of 25% magnesium making them a valuable addition to the compost pile if you don't care to eat them. Companions are lettuce, kohlrabi, onions and brassicas. Garlic improves growth and flavor. They are also beneficial to beans with the exception of runner beans. Runner or pole beans and beets stunt each other's growth.

Borage: One of the best bee and wasp attracting plants. Adds trace minerals to the soil and a good addition the compost pile. The leaves contain vitamin C and are rich in calcium, potassium and mineral salts. Borage may benefit any plant it is growing next to via increasing resistance to pests and disease.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS: C. coccineum kills root nematodes. (the bad ones) It's flowers along with those of C. cineraruaefolium have been used as botanical pesticides for centuries. (i.e. pyrethrum) White flowering chrysanthemums repel Japanese beetles.

CORIANDER: Repels aphids, spider mites and potato beetle. A tea from this can be used as a spray for spider mites. A partner for anise.


GARLIC: Plant near roses to repel aphids. Accumulates sulfur: a naturally occurring fungicide which will help in the garden with disease prevention. Garlic is systemic in action as it is taken up the plants through their pores and when used as a soil drench is also taken up by the roots. Has value in offending codling moths, Japanese beetles, root maggots, snails, and carrot root fly. Researchers have observed that time-released garlic capsules planted at the bases of fruit trees actually kept deer away! Hey, worth a try! Concentrated garlic sprays have been observed to repel and kill whiteflies, aphids and fungus gnats among others with as little as a 6-8% concentration! It is safe for use on orchids too.


LAVENDER: Repels fleas and moths. Prolific flowering lavender nourishes many nectar feeding and beneficial insects. Lavenders can protect nearby plants from insects such as whitefly, and lavender planted under and near fruit trees can deter codling moth. Use dried sprigs of lavender to repel moths. Start plants in winter from cuttings, setting out in spring.


LEMON BALM: Sprinkle throughout the garden in an herbal powder mixture to deter many bugs. Lemon balm has citronella compounds that make this work: crush and rub the leaves on your skin to keep mosquitoes away! Use to ward off squash bugs!


Lovage: Gets very large and can be used for Camo, also known to improve flavor in almost all vegetables and herbs it is planted with.


MARJORAM: As a companion plant it improves the flavor of vegetables and herbs. Sweet marjoram is the most commonly grown type.


Mint: all forms of mint including peppermint, spearmint, catnip, horehound, contain menthol which repels nasty bugs and attracts beneficial ones.


NASTURTIUMS: Plant as a barrier around tomatoes, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Deters wooly aphids, whiteflies, squash bug, cucumber beetles and other pests of the cucurbit family. Great trap crop for aphids (in particular the black aphids) which it does attract, especially the yellow flowering varieties. Likes poor soil with low moisture and no fertilizer. It has been the practice of some fruit growers that planting nasturtiums every year in the root zone of fruit trees allow the trees to take up the pungent odor of the plants and repel bugs. Studies say it is among the best at attracting predatory insects. It has no taste effect on the fruit. A nice variety to grow is Alaska which has attractive green and white variegated leaves. The leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible and wonderful in salads!


Stinging Nettles: Good for guerrilla growers trying to prevent theit plants being found/stolen. Plant them in a big patch a decent radius around your plot, and they will quickly spread. Anyone who walks more than a foot into the patch will NOT be very happy, and is likely to turn around.


Peas: Like beans, these drop large amounts of nitrogen into the soil. Great for veg cycle. Highly recommended.

Chili peppers: These exude chemicals from their roots that prevent root rot and other Fusarium(sp?) diseases. They are also useful if deer, rabbits or mice often try to feed on your plot, as they are likely to try one of the chili fruits and then not try to feed in that area again (esp if you grow habaneros, mwahaha)


Southernwood: good camo plant as it gets large quickly and makes a strong lemony smell if brushed that can cover up the smell of your prized plants.


Soybeans: Another heavy nitrogen producer. grow it with your plants during veg cycle to throw them some extra organic nitrogen


TARRAGON: Plant throughout the garden, not many pests like this one. Recommended to enhance growth and flavor of vegetables.


YARROW: Yarrow has insect repelling qualities and is an excellent natural fertilizer. A handful of yarrow leaves added to the compost pile really speeds things up. Try it! It also attracts predatory wasps and ladybugs to name just two. It may increase the essential oil content of herbs when planted among
them.(sweeter smelling buds, possibly more thc production!)

So I just found this thread...Im growing my plant out behind my house. Mint is surrounding it from all sides. I cleared out a small circle (about 2 ft in diameter) and surrounding the circle is more mint than I ever wanted. In the center of the circle is the plant of course. This grow spot is also right next to a salt water cove. Would the weed possibly get a salty hint to it? or minty? If so I already have a name, "Mint Sea Kush"....but thats besides the point. Will my bud have any different scent or flavor? whether it be minty or salty...or both?