Cold growing.

Connoisseurus Rex

Well-Known Member
I was going to post this in the advanced section, but even new growers can do it, so what the hell.

There's a lot of talk about grow room temps. While temperature can certainly have an impact on growing, it's only a big impact if other factors are not addressed.

Plants have 3 major functions. Photosynthesis, respiration, and transpiration... None which require a specific temperature to perform, with the exception of transpiration. That being said, temperature does effect how efficiently these processes function.

Photosynthesis is dependent on water supply, light, and CO2. Respiration has the same limiting factors. Neither are temp dependent.

Now we come to transpiration. This is the more important one in my opinion. Transpiration limiting factors are RH, water supply in the medium, light, wind, and temp (to a degree based on plants life stage).

Taking all of that into account, temperature is the least significant driving force in a plants growth cycle.

While it's true that photosynthesis production can be increased with temperature, it is more reliant on the other factors. If your area is cold but you keep your canopy warmer and your soil from freezing, photosynthesis will occur at peak levels. The same rules apply to respiration.

Here is my theory on respiration and cold growing based solely on my growing experiences. Respiration is the opposite function of photosynthesis. Photosynthesis stores energy and respiration burns it off. Photosynthesis requires CO2, whereas respiration requires oxygen. The colder and denser the air, the more oxygen capacity it has. The more oxygen available to the plant, the more it can "breathe".

In a colder environment, photosynthesis can still peak with a warm canopy and above freezing soil. It also becomes an oxygen rich environment. This allows the plant to do more work, more efficiently when used in conjunction with transpiration. I'll be back to talk about that in a moment.
 

Connoisseurus Rex

Well-Known Member
Transpiration is a very useful function for getting the best out of your plants.

It moves the nutrients up the plant, gives the plant form, and is responsible for pushing roots through the soil via turgidity.

Here's my theory on transpiration. By keeping humidity in check, a plant will only transpire as much as you let it. A lower humidity will cause more transpiration, while a higher humidity will cause less.

However, this is generally due to the wind factor. If wind is higher, it will remove the boundary layer, increasing transpiration. If the wind is lower, transpiration will be less as the plant fights to transpire through the boundary layer. This is why air circulation is so important.

Moving on to light. Light is required to open the stomata so CO2 can be used for photosynthesis. When stomata are open, transpiration increases. That's why more light triggers better growth. It aids photosynthesis by allowing more CO2 in, increasing respiration, and creates higher transpiration rates... Therefore faster growth.

The driving forced behind transpiration is water. Plants need it to transpire. Otherwise, they wilt and die. Keep that in mind for cloning. Everybody knows about water blah blah.

Lastly, we have temps. Warmer air is drier air. It increases transpiration. Colder air is moister, limiting transpiration. That is, assuming all things are equal. When you take into account your humidity, light, and wind factors... Temperature cannot do much for transpiration by itself.

A warmer, drier air will only increase transpiration if humidity, light, and wind are not tailored to the plants.

So, in my theory and experience... Temp matters very little.
 

Labs Dexter

Well-Known Member
Need to see pics of your plants buddy my last two plants was holygrail 69 and c.kush...

The slowed down considerably because of cooler temps at lights out it was 15c and lights on it was 26c...

I kept on coming across mild cal mag deff and I was getting a Pk deff...

Just wondering if it is the same for you, do you have to change your feeding routine because the roots absorb less water...

Since changing my temps to ambient 20c off 28-29 lights on I see more improved growth all the leaf stems and the plants stems are a healthy green..

I would just like to know your techniques on the water and what doses of nutes you use?
I did like my temps low because colours on flowers are awsom but the growth was not as good and very slow, with deficiency issues, how do you battle that?

I am in soil by the way forgot to mention that
 

willc

Well-Known Member
Need to see pics of your plants buddy my last two plants was holygrail 69 and c.kush...

The slowed down considerably because of cooler temps at lights out it was 15c and lights on it was 26c...

I kept on coming across mild cal mag deff and I was getting a Pk deff...

Just wondering if it is the same for you, do you have to change your feeding routine because the roots absorb less water...

Since changing my temps to ambient 20c off 28-29 lights on I see more improved growth all the leaf stems and the plants stems are a healthy green..

I would just like to know your techniques on the water and what doses of nutes you use?
I did like my temps low because colours on flowers are awsom but the growth was not as good and very slow, with deficiency issues, how do you battle that?

I am in soil by the way forgot to mention that
You know what Im getting exactly the same and my temps are the same, 26/7 lights on. 15/16 lights off. Shade leaves getting brown spots looking like cal mag def, then dying from the tips backwards and then dark patches like P def. Its been driving me mad because I didn't know if it was a deficiency or lock out from overfeeding (id fed very lightly half strength). This has been happening throughout veg and into flower. I addressed with Cal Mag and PK additives with no change. Added a heater bringing temps up to 19/20 at night and have seen an improvement.
 

Labs Dexter

Well-Known Member
You know what Im getting exactly the same and my temps are the same, 26/7 lights on. 15/16 lights off. Shade leaves getting brown spots looking like cal mag def, then dying from the tips backwards and then dark patches like P def. Its been driving me mad because I didn't know if it was a deficiency or lock out from overfeeding (id fed very lightly half strength). This has been happening throughout veg and into flower. I addressed with Cal Mag and PK additives with no change. Added a heater bringing temps up to 19/20 at night and have seen an improvement.
It's the cold since I changed my temps I regularly monitor, 20 /19 off and 28/30 on and the growth is absolutely way batter and day and night,

instead of the cold before I was only seeing growth or should I say noticed plants growing only on lights on but very slow and like you said pk and cal mag attacks lol I use bottled water so I know cal mag shouldn't be an issue.

Then I decided to change temps and boon it's like they are on steroids lol.

I was just curious and interested in his theory, I like you purple blue and lilac colours but it comes with a cost lmao.
 

Cobnobuler

Well-Known Member
I just can't imagine anything much better than Larf as a result of these temps.
Can we at least agree that these are outside "optimal" conditions ?
And if thats true, that which is outside of optimal is going to manifest itself in some way or another.
 

Connoisseurus Rex

Well-Known Member
Need to see pics of your plants buddy my last two plants was holygrail 69 and c.kush...

The slowed down considerably because of cooler temps at lights out it was 15c and lights on it was 26c...

I kept on coming across mild cal mag deff and I was getting a Pk deff...

Just wondering if it is the same for you, do you have to change your feeding routine because the roots absorb less water...

Since changing my temps to ambient 20c off 28-29 lights on I see more improved growth all the leaf stems and the plants stems are a healthy green..

I would just like to know your techniques on the water and what doses of nutes you use?
I did like my temps low because colours on flowers are awsom but the growth was not as good and very slow, with deficiency issues, how do you battle that?

I am in soil by the way forgot to mention that
I grow organic, but I have used bottled nutes with the same temps.

I have no issues with my roots using less water because they don't when it's set up right.

Colder temps mean higher humidities... Which is why your plants will use less water if it's not kept in check. Humidity needs to be low, about 40%-50% going into the tent.

When dialed in right, humidity will rise to around 60%-70% with the lights on and DROP back to 40%-50% with lights off. That's because of transpiration. The plants alone are responsible for a 20%-30% increase in humidity.

This is because of the circulation and lighting. When it's colder, you can run your lights closer. This increases the amount of light they receive (maxing photosynthesis) as well as drying up the air in the plants immediate vicinity. The constant wind from an oscillating fan moves the air around the plants, introducing fresh air while removing the boundary layer from the leaves, increasing transpiration rates.

Your root problems were more than likely associated with humidity, not temps. The roots can only drive the plant as fast as it can transpire.
 

Connoisseurus Rex

Well-Known Member
I just can't imagine anything much better than Larf as a result of these temps.
Can we at least agree that these are outside "optimal" conditions ?
And if thats true, that which is outside of optimal is going to manifest itself in some way or another.
Optimal in my mind is unaffected and steady growth.

Staying inside certain temp parameters doesn't hurt growth or yield at all.

The colder temps only increase humidity. That's the only real impact they have. Warmer temps do the opposite. As long as you control your humidity and circulation, temp doesn't affect much.

Lower humidity allows for more transpiration and circulation keeps photosynthesis and respiration at pique while also improving transpiration.
 

Labs Dexter

Well-Known Member
I grow organic, but I have used bottled nutes with the same temps.

I have no issues with my roots using less water because they don't when it's set up right.

Colder temps mean higher humidities... Which is why your plants will use less water if it's not kept in check. Humidity needs to be low, about 40%-50% going into the tent.

When dialed in right, humidity will rise to around 60%-70% with the lights on and DROP back to 40%-50% with lights off. That's because of transpiration. The plants alone are responsible for a 20%-30% increase in humidity.

This is because of the circulation and lighting. When it's colder, you can run your lights closer. This increases the amount of light they receive (maxing photosynthesis) as well as drying up the air in the plants immediate vicinity. The constant wind from an oscillating fan moves the air around the plants, introducing fresh air while removing the boundary layer from the leaves, increasing transpiration rates.

Your root problems were more than likely associated with humidity, not temps. The roots can only drive the plant as fast as it can transpire.
Aaaahhhhaaaaa organic makes sense abit.
Thanks for your reply, if you don't mind can I ask how meny plants have you grown in cold...

I just wanna see pics of recently grown in those temps indoors and maybe I might change my ways again and do some extra reading ,

I am not interrogating you mate I am harmless I have tried few things that I don't think meny have or would attempt doin lol, I grow personal and have allot of time and abit of space for my experiments..:bigjoint:
 

Connoisseurus Rex

Well-Known Member
Aaaahhhhaaaaa organic makes sense abit.
Thanks for your reply, if you don't mind can I ask how meny plants have you grown in cold...

I just wanna see pics of recently grown in those temps indoors and maybe I might change my ways again and do some extra reading ,

I am not interrogating you mate I am harmless I have tried few things that I don't think meny have or would attempt doin lol, I grow personal and have allot of time and abit of space for my experiments..:bigjoint:
This is the 2nd year of cold growing for me. The first year I ran 70s because I could. I've since had to move my grow to a less desirable area where heat is not really an option.

I was on a 2 year hiatus from the forum. I just came back in December. I don't have any grows to show for it except for the current grow I have going.

Now I don't want you to think cold growing produces better results or anything like that. It's simply a way to grow when it's cold.

I'm doing a lighting experiment in these temps right now. This will be the first grow I have documented on the site, other than my first which was in "optimal" temps. So I post lots of pics to show that they're still alive and growing fine. They're only seedlings right now, but I should have enough of a window to post a cold grown harvest.

If you want to experiment with it for whatever reason, just make sure that there is a steady breeze on the plant even with lights off and that you bring in fresh air. I don't force exhaust. The warmer air, which is also the used up air, rises out of a vent in the top of the tent. Fresh air is forced in only and dispersed via oscillating fan.

As long as you control your humidity outside the tent, the plants will control it inside. Most of the excess humidity runs out the top with the warmer air. My plants keep it around 60%-70% RH at max transpiration. Anything over that usually rises out with the warm air.
 

Labs Dexter

Well-Known Member
Thanks again and I'll be following, I just wanted to do to face colours in my budds, look better than my brothers standard green stuff lol, but was unsuccessful or should I say I came across problems and I'm using synthetic fertilizer lol.

Thanks again and I hope you don't mind me following you buddy
 

Connoisseurus Rex

Well-Known Member
Thanks again and I'll be following, I just wanted to do to face colours in my budds, look better than my brothers standard green stuff lol, but was unsuccessful or should I say I came across problems and I'm using synthetic fertilizer lol.

Thanks again and I hope you don't mind me following you buddy
For flower, it's the same thing. The constant circulation keeps away pests, molds, and rots.

As long as you vent the excess humidity and keep constant circulation, the plants will thrive and you'll get the natural colors.

No problem at all.

On a side note, you can give your plants organic calmag by adding powdered egg shells to your mix and watering with Epsom salts. Zero percent chance of having issues with those. Neither cause salt buildups like bottled nutes. Both are usually readily available and save costs.
 

playermic

Well-Known Member
you want to keep the day/night temps. consistent preferably around 72-80F is where a weed plant thrives.
 
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