Club 600

Some off road R/C car crash fun?

[video=youtube_share;4uV4Do8LXB0]http://youtu.be/4uV4Do8LXB0[/video]

How about we slow it down with some R/C hill climbing?

[video=youtube_share;7tmNj-Q_rJo]http://youtu.be/7tmNj-Q_rJo[/video]

Don't know if I've posted this one of an AH-1 Cobra (radio controlled):

[video=youtube_share;iUACsvuoqPM]http://youtu.be/iUACsvuoqPM[/video]

Man I miss the like button. It's such an easy way to acknowledge peoples posts. Oh well. I like it all. I don't know what to think of the dark thing. Tried it once and don't know if it made a difference or not. And I left it for a week. Now the cold flush at the end might have something to it. A simulated seasonal indicator like we do with light cycles? Cold fall rains?

I was checking out my veg cabinet this morning which put a smile on my face. My Casey Jones and Deep Psychosis are looking great and I'm throwing them into flower today to sit with the Romulans, Caliband and Satori Rom. They're set for their final up pots as soon as they show me some girly parts. Boys are compost. A couple that haven't been doing well, and I've been nursing, have picked right up. Soon to be out of ICU you could say. Particularly my Chocolate Rain, Extrema X Dog and Heri X Extrema. Grabbed some shots for ya's. My flowering is 7pm to am so I'll post a couple of what's going on in there later.

Good day all.

Casey Jones 1,2 Deep Psychosis 3,4 Extrema X Dog 5 Heri X Extrema 6 Chocolate Rain 7 Mix of youngins The veg op.

Looking nice, duchie!

Hey!
We're on the same flowering light schedule!

It's the cheap time, as well as the cooler time so it just makes sense. Less chance of unexpected traffic in and around the house then too. Once these are potted up that should fill tent one and that tray of wee ones will be going into tent 2 under the 400 MH until they're ready for the switch. It's getting busy around here for sure.

Sup sixxers, y'all are putting out some fine work.

There has been some spectacular pr0n on here today.

duchie

Your babies are looking good....plus the one's in the background are looking healthy too.

Here is a cut and paste from Uncle Ben
The issue is how much of a certain macro is enough to support good flower/fruit production? The general thinking of the gardening industry as reflected in nutrient guides and piggy backed on by the plant food industry is a certain premise - "P is needed for a plant to flower and fruit well". So the gardener sits there pondering the choices on the shelf and thinks, "well, if P is so good, I'll just hit 'em hard with LOTS of P" and shells out money for some wacked out blossom booster with a 10-50-10 ratio.

What most don't understand is the concept of nutrient antagonism. They learn the hard way that too much P causes a "lockout" of micros, N and Ca too, if memory serves me correct. I've found through years of gardening that a 18-4-9 produces good flowers and fruiting. Good example is the greenhouse tomatoes I have growing now, which were hit very heavy with the slow release 18-4-9, so heavy that I'm getting leaf curling suggesting too much salts. BUT, they are frickin' loaded with small fruit and covered in yellow flowers and moderate amounts of foliage. Temps get down to 35F before the heater cuts in which is really weird cause you usually get tomato flower drop below temps of 55F. There has been NO flower drop.

Shit can most forum thought and paradigms and the snake oils/supplements/additive......... grow your pot like you would a tomato plant and you should be able to outproduce anyone at RIU if all cultural factors are in balance.

UB

with this idea i decided to try it to see if it works. Using jungle growth pro mixed with 25% perlite, I added 1 tablespoon per quart of espoma's tomato-tone


Tomato-tone® 3-4-6
For Plump & Juicy TomatoesAll Natural Plant Food with Bio-tone® Microbes
Available in 4, 8, and 20 lb. Bags;
1 pound equals approx. 3 cupfuls
Tomato-tone is a premium plant food formulated specifically for growing plump and juicy tomatoes. Tomato-tone's organic composition feeds your plants naturally and will not force rapid growth at the expense of blooms and tomato yield. Tomato-tone's all natural formula contains Bio-tone®, our proprietary blend of beneficial microbes. Bio-tone biologically enhances our natural plant food to ensure superior plant growth.
Soil PreparationWhen preparing tomato bed apply 3 lbs. (9 cups) of Tomato-tone per 50 sq. ft. and work into the top 4 to 6 inches of soil.
For single plants mix 3 tablespoons of Tomato-tone into the soil when planting.
For Potted Plants mix one part Tomato-tone to 30 parts soil mixture ( 1.25 cups of Tomato-tone for every 8 qt. of soil).FeedingApply Tomato-tone after plants are well established (10 - 14 days) and then twice a month during the growing season (May through August)
Rows - 1 cup each side per 5 feet of row.
Single Plants - 3 tablespoons per plant
Potted Plants - Apply 1.5 teaspoons per 4" of pot diameter (1.5 tablespoon per 12 inch pot diameter).
Application MethodsApply Tomato-tone in a narrow band around single plants or along each side of a row. Keep Tomato-tone at least 3" from stem.
Potted Plants: Apply evenly over soil and gently mix in.
Water thoroughly after feeding.

Here are the seedlings at one month in this mix...







This has been the easiest and healthiest plants that I have ever grown. I just water with 1 tablespoon of fox farm big bloom per gallon of water.
The tall ones are the DOGS....there are some wonders and whodat's in there too.


cof

[video=youtube;XyUus3WqNqs]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyUus3WqNqs[/video]

curious old fart said:

There has been some spectacular pr0n on here today.

duchie

Your babies are looking good....plus the one's in the background are looking healthy too.

Here is a cut and paste from Uncle Ben
The issue is how much of a certain macro is enough to support good flower/fruit production? The general thinking of the gardening industry as reflected in nutrient guides and piggy backed on by the plant food industry is a certain premise - "P is needed for a plant to flower and fruit well". So the gardener sits there pondering the choices on the shelf and thinks, "well, if P is so good, I'll just hit 'em hard with LOTS of P" and shells out money for some wacked out blossom booster with a 10-50-10 ratio.

What most don't understand is the concept of nutrient antagonism. They learn the hard way that too much P causes a "lockout" of micros, N and Ca too, if memory serves me correct. I've found through years of gardening that a 18-4-9 produces good flowers and fruiting. Good example is the greenhouse tomatoes I have growing now, which were hit very heavy with the slow release 18-4-9, so heavy that I'm getting leaf curling suggesting too much salts. BUT, they are frickin' loaded with small fruit and covered in yellow flowers and moderate amounts of foliage. Temps get down to 35F before the heater cuts in which is really weird cause you usually get tomato flower drop below temps of 55F. There has been NO flower drop.

Shit can most forum thought and paradigms and the snake oils/supplements/additive......... grow your pot like you would a tomato plant and you should be able to outproduce anyone at RIU if all cultural factors are in balance.

UB

with this idea i decided to try it to see if it works. Using jungle growth pro mixed with 25% perlite, I added 1 tablespoon per quart of espoma's tomato-tone
Tomato-tone® 3-4-6
For Plump & Juicy TomatoesAll Natural Plant Food with Bio-tone® Microbes
Available in 4, 8, and 20 lb. Bags;
1 pound equals approx. 3 cupfuls
Tomato-tone is a premium plant food formulated specifically for growing plump and juicy tomatoes. Tomato-tone's organic composition feeds your plants naturally and will not force rapid growth at the expense of blooms and tomato yield. Tomato-tone's all natural formula contains Bio-tone®, our proprietary blend of beneficial microbes. Bio-tone biologically enhances our natural plant food to ensure superior plant growth.
Soil PreparationWhen preparing tomato bed apply 3 lbs. (9 cups) of Tomato-tone per 50 sq. ft. and work into the top 4 to 6 inches of soil.
For single plants mix 3 tablespoons of Tomato-tone into the soil when planting.
For Potted Plants mix one part Tomato-tone to 30 parts soil mixture ( 1.25 cups of Tomato-tone for every 8 qt. of soil).FeedingApply Tomato-tone after plants are well established (10 - 14 days) and then twice a month during the growing season (May through August)
Rows - 1 cup each side per 5 feet of row.
Single Plants - 3 tablespoons per plant
Potted Plants - Apply 1.5 teaspoons per 4" of pot diameter (1.5 tablespoon per 12 inch pot diameter).
Application MethodsApply Tomato-tone in a narrow band around single plants or along each side of a row. Keep Tomato-tone at least 3" from stem.
Potted Plants: Apply evenly over soil and gently mix in.
Water thoroughly after feeding.

Here are the seedlings at one month in this mix...







This has been the easiest and healthiest plants that I have ever grown. I just water with 1 tablespoon of fox farm big bloom per gallon of water.
The tall ones are the DOGS....there are some wonders and whodat's in there too.


cof

Click to expand...

Now that is what I call a SEA OF GREEN

Beautiful COF

Very nice cof. I'm not surprised by this. I don't know why we treat these plants so differently than others and think that they need a whole different line of products than what we use for everything else. I have yet to use any nutrients from the likes of AN or anyone like them. Now I've gone through a lot of crap with my garden of late but I chalk that up to a learning curve and none of it is anything that could have been solved by any kind of special tonic. Also when you think about it, tomatoe plants are very close to weed plants in growth and structure.

KISS.

duchieman said:

Very nice cof. I'm not surprised by this. I don't know why we treat these plants so differently than others and think that they need a whole different line of products than what we use for everything else. I have yet to use any nutrients from the likes of AN or anyone like them. Now I've gone through a lot of crap with my garden of late but I chalk that up to a learning curve and none of it is anything that could have been solved by any kind of special tonic. Also when you think about it, tomatoe plants are very close to weed plants in growth and structure.

KISS.

Click to expand...

I like your posts. I'm going to re-use my current soil. Growing clover in the pails to fix nitrogen. Top dress with compost and EWC. Give it a tea. Guys are re-using soil and it gets better and better if left undisturbed.

Cof, those are really beautiful. Great setup

I use coir and perlite with other amendments. A year ago, or so, I grabbed 100 bricks for cheap and I still have 3/4 left. Coir does not break down like soil, apparently. "Unlike peat moss and bark composts, Coconut Coir did not break down or compact. Containers that had been filled with Coir four years previous were found to be at the same level and consistency." more here http://vgrove.com/coir.html

Anyway, what I'm getting at is I have recycled about 150L of mix over again. Some amendments I use such as Rock Phosphate and Humik are slow release and I'm certain there's always left overs. I don't really flush, I just use straight water for the last two weeks. More importantly though is all the great micros and fungi that I keep feeding back into the mix. Basically when I harvest they stay in pots until I'm ready to repot others. When I'm done the repotting this leaves room to throw in the used mix and pull out the root balls. The fine strands all stay, and there it sits till the next round. I don't just reuse it though. I will re-amend the mix (just the amount that I'm using) with some more perlite and a boost of the other stuff. I am thinking of cutting the mix though and using half on house plants and adding fresh coir to my bin. If your organic, I think it's crazy not to reuse your old mixes. I know DST does it and a few others here as well.

Also. I heard alfalfa meal is a great organic source for Nitrogen. As good or better than castings but I'm betting not as much micros.

Great stuff everyone, got me through my post dinner joint.

Have a good day/evening.

DST

duchieman said:

Also. I heard alfalfa meal is a great organic source for Nitrogen. As good or better than castings but I'm betting not as much micros.

Click to expand...

My flower nute is made with alfalfa, molasses, and a couple of other things. Produces nice weed for sure.

Yes sir. Feed the medium, not the plant. I believe you can smell when your soil is rich and healthy. It has a sweetness to it. Coir and perlite alone doesn't smell that way. That smell it grown. IDK, maybe I'm just nuts!

duchieman said:

Very nice cof. I'm not surprised by this. I don't know why we treat these plants so differently than others and think that they need a whole different line of products than what we use for everything else. I have yet to use any nutrients from the likes of AN or anyone like them. Now I've gone through a lot of crap with my garden of late but I chalk that up to a learning curve and none of it is anything that could have been solved by any kind of special tonic. Also when you think about it, tomatoe plants are very close to weed plants in growth and structure.

KISS.

Click to expand...

I was talking with a friend the other day about how we grew in the early 80's. All i ever did was dig a hole about 2 feet deep to break up the soil and add a seedling. Maybe add a little miracle grow once or twice and that was it. I grew some Amazing monster bushes in the 80's and never had any bug or nutrient issues. I saw others using compost and chicken manure as a kid growing up on the farm. But I had no access to that kind of stuff at the time. I do believe we are being sold Snake Oil to some extent. I can get through 3-4 runs before I have to buy more supplements using H&G nutes so it's not too bad of a hit. Some of these other companies really dilute the products and keep you running to the shop for more magic juice. I plan on switching to all organic teas here within the next month or so. Part of the reason is to reclaim the soil instead of tossing it out. Has anyone noticed the price of soil has doubled in the last few years?

I use alf-alfa meal in my soil mix. I grow alf-alfa as a nitrogen replacer in my vegetable garden too.

Hell i re-use my dirt mainly because i had no way of disposing it. i usually flush it and amend it first. Whats with all this talk about new dirt anyways? Not like you'll find much of that in nature.

TrynaGroSumShyt said:

Hell i re-use my dirt mainly because i had no way of disposing it. i usually flush it and amend it first. Whats with all this talk about new dirt anyways? Not like you'll find much of that in nature.

Click to expand...

Not really sure I don't know that I'd want to recycle if I used synthetics though. Something about the idea. Can't see it being a build up of good things then.