Thrasher645
Well-Known Member
What up Pablo,
Here are a few pics of mine before i started flowering, they vegged for 6-7 weeks. The indicas got about 21 inches and the sativa got to 3ft.
Changing Water
- Thread starter zeldareaver
- Start date
Here are a few pics of mine before i started flowering, they vegged for 6-7 weeks. The indicas got about 21 inches and the sativa got to 3ft.
zeldareaver
Active Member
i honestly didn't think this thread about changing water would have even went this far.
LutherLuther
Member
I have heard from others that in a recirculating DWC environment that water changes are not needed. As long as you constantly monitor the PPM, Temp and PH and adjust accordingly then you are OK. Especially when you have airstones in the reservoir (in addition to the buckets) and add water regularly...
patjack
Well-Known Member
I do dwc with the lucas formula and found there is no need for water changes in a grow, after every grow I start with new water, otherwise its always topping off and seems to work just fine everytime. not only that but when I switch from veg to flower I use the same water and just change my nute levels, it is the easisest thing with the easy gh nutes. I would say if I experineced problems I would prob change water and start all over. not saying water changing is wrong, in fact its prob right but i have found no issues and dont like pourin my water and nuts down the drain all the time, also at the very end i do flush with clean water although i am still not convinced as when I havent flushed i don't know that i notice any snap crackle and pop, harshness or anything like that
polishfalcon420
Well-Known Member
hey roseman, where do you keep your water level in relation to the bottom of the netcup?
Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
In DWC, DRIP and in Bubbleponics Systems, you need a one to two inch air pocket inbeteen the top of the water line, and the bottom of the grow cups.
I won''t argue or debate it, but I do not agree with the posted info about changing water, and continuing to use the same water. I especially disagree with using the same water for Vegging and Flowering. Vegging and Flowering Cycles need two distinctivly different kinds of NPK nutes.
In DWC, DRIP and in Bubbleponics Systems, a weekly AIR BATH OF THE ROOTS during a water change causes major growth spurts to roots and plants.
And OLD water lacks the
fresh electrolytes needed.
An important reason to change your water nutrient solution is to eliminate the wastes your plants discard into the nutrient water? As plants transpire, moisture and nutrient levels drop in your reservoir and the EC or strength of the nutrient can rise to dangerous toxic levels.
Beware of advice starting with "I heard" or "someone
told me".
I own 14 books and spend several hours a day, everyday learning and researching "how to" grow pot.
YouGrowBoy
Well-Known Member
There seems to be a lot contradictory info regarding water and res changes. I'm still trying to figure it out.
Just because something "works" does not mean it's optimum or that your plants are as healthy as they could be. Not changing res water may work but is it the best method? On the flip side is replacing the water and nutes on a regular schedule a waste of good water and nutes?
These questions are a bit rhetorical because I will get different DWC/nute answers from different people.
1. Hydro stores say change the nutes/water often but does just mean "buy more nutes from us".
2. Lucas says changes the nutes/water after you replace the amount of fresh water your res holds.
or
3. go the whole flowering term only adding water and nutes as needed and never change the res. (addback system)
Different growers use variations of the three methods above and there are people that say "it works for me" in every case.
The ultimate question (which again will have multiple answers) is: Which of the methods above will grow the healthiest plants that produce the most buds yet not waste water or nutes? That's the nirvana I'm looking for.
I'm 2.5 weeks into flower with a 25gal res for 6 plants. My roots/plants look superb.
I've replaced 16 gal of the original 25 and have added nutes to keep ppm around 900/1000. (addback system).
Water temp is 71 (I know, a little high)
The problem is now the ph drops from 5.8 to 5.4 overnight. Why? (it usually goes up overnight not down) Is there a way to test if the water is full of toxins or if it's OK to continue my process?
Sorry for the long winded post.
YGB
patjack
Well-Known Member
great post, I agree there are many ways to skin a cat... I think the only way to get a definitive answer is to do a side by side grow with clones in the same room. I think the question is does the production increase when you change water religously, (it seems to make sense this would be better, always starting fresh with optimum nute/balance levels) (also I agree it always seems like the nute sellers think its best to always start fresh...lol) and if it does, does it give you enough extra grams to make up for the nute/water cost not to mention time. I would be interested in this experiment if someone would do it, as I have not, for me my time and space is to limited to try it at this time, and like the other differnt approches it seems to be working for me at this time. As for ph going down overnight maybe that is from the water the plants are drinking increasing the ppm of your solution?There seems to be a lot contradictory info regarding water and res changes. I'm still trying to figure it out.
Just because something "works" does not mean it's optimum or that your plants are as healthy as they could be. Not changing res water may work but is it the best method? On the flip side is replacing the water and nutes on a regular schedule a waste of good water and nutes?
These questions are a bit rhetorical because I will get different DWC/nute answers from different people.
1. Hydro stores say change the nutes/water often but does just mean "buy more nutes from us".
2. Lucas says changes the nutes/water after you replace the amount of fresh water your res holds.
or
3. go the whole flowering term only adding water and nutes as needed and never change the res. (addback system)
Different growers use variations of the three methods above and there are people that say "it works for me" in every case.
The ultimate question (which again will have multiple answers) is: Which of the methods above will grow the healthiest plants that produce the most buds yet not waste water or nutes? That's the nirvana I'm looking for.
I'm 2.5 weeks into flower with a 25gal res for 6 plants. My roots/plants look superb.
I've replaced 16 gal of the original 25 and have added nutes to keep ppm around 900/1000. (addback system).
Water temp is 71 (I know, a little high)
The problem is now the ph drops from 5.8 to 5.4 overnight. Why? (it usually goes up overnight not down) Is there a way to test if the water is full of toxins or if it's OK to continue my process?
Sorry for the long winded post.
Hi,
This is an excellent thread. I have grown out door before and this is my first time growing hydroponically. I have been doing the add back using a ppm meter in a DWC set up. Vegged 6 oaksterdam clones for about 7 weeks in a 10 gallon bucket, (biggest plant at the time was almsot 2 feet tall} did 1 full water and GH 3 part nute change in the middle. Then switched plantes to individual 5 gallon buckets(put 3.5 inch net pots into 6 inch net pots with the botton cut out} with new water and transition nutes for 1.5 weeks and then used same water and addeded full bloom nutes. I am in mid 4th week of flowering [biggest plant almost 5 feet tall and as wide as a door way]and the plants look really good. The bigger growing plants take up 70% of water in the buckets, in 2 to 3 days or so. I was thinking of keeping same water for more than 60-70% of new water is being added every 2 to 3 days. However, when I add back, I do put plants in an empty bucket, so air hits roots, while I clean deposits and slim from the air hose,bubble stone and get PPM right. But based on above info, it may be best to do one more res change. Better safe than all this time wasted. Thanks for the info
This is an excellent thread. I have grown out door before and this is my first time growing hydroponically. I have been doing the add back using a ppm meter in a DWC set up. Vegged 6 oaksterdam clones for about 7 weeks in a 10 gallon bucket, (biggest plant at the time was almsot 2 feet tall} did 1 full water and GH 3 part nute change in the middle. Then switched plantes to individual 5 gallon buckets(put 3.5 inch net pots into 6 inch net pots with the botton cut out} with new water and transition nutes for 1.5 weeks and then used same water and addeded full bloom nutes. I am in mid 4th week of flowering [biggest plant almost 5 feet tall and as wide as a door way]and the plants look really good. The bigger growing plants take up 70% of water in the buckets, in 2 to 3 days or so. I was thinking of keeping same water for more than 60-70% of new water is being added every 2 to 3 days. However, when I add back, I do put plants in an empty bucket, so air hits roots, while I clean deposits and slim from the air hose,bubble stone and get PPM right. But based on above info, it may be best to do one more res change. Better safe than all this time wasted. Thanks for the info
Roseman
Elite Rolling Society
IF you do a Drain and Replinish, and see and experience the growth spurt, you'll continue doing the changes.
Pretend I place 3 different food items on a banquest table, and call them N P and K. A pig comes along and eats all of N and half of P and 1/4 of K.
Then I put another full plate of N P K on the table. The pig loves alot of N, likes P and doesn't care for much K and again eats accordingly. I keep putting a plate full of N P and K on the table,
after a while I got a big build up of K, some P and no N.
I need to clear that table every few days and re-stock it with the same N P K amounts so I am offering a balanced diet to the pig, or plant, who's diet is changing.
Pretend I place 3 different food items on a banquest table, and call them N P and K. A pig comes along and eats all of N and half of P and 1/4 of K.
Then I put another full plate of N P K on the table. The pig loves alot of N, likes P and doesn't care for much K and again eats accordingly. I keep putting a plate full of N P and K on the table,
after a while I got a big build up of K, some P and no N.
I need to clear that table every few days and re-stock it with the same N P K amounts so I am offering a balanced diet to the pig, or plant, who's diet is changing.
doctorD
Well-Known Member
Roots dont like light thats why they grow under ground. So the black cloth is doing much more than decorating your grow. Just make sure you cover the top as well if its clear so you can keep out the light.