Can someone help me with this flowering deficiency. PIC INCLUDED

C

cgrizzle3

Well-Known Member
This problem always happens in flowering. I never have the problem in vegging I use fox farm nutrients, ebb and grow bucket system, silica, reverse osmosis with cal mag. It seems that it happens with my Super lemon haze more than it does with my cheese or indica strains. if someone could please tell me what the deficiency is i would greatly appreciate it. I kind of think that i need to lower my nutrients, but i thought the signs of overfeeding is the tips starting to burn first? I have also tried adding more cal mag, less cal mag, and have even used a sweetner just to add MG and no iron. Thank you very much, and hopefully somebody knows.nutrient deficiency.jpg
 
G

gupp

Member
Dang, that look almost like it's got too much light/heat, maybe like it's cooking the roots. Are you indoor or outdoor?
 
C

cgrizzle3

Well-Known Member
No, that cant be it. Its indoor, and i have a lot of money wrapped up in the room. I keep the room at 75 degrees exactly at all times. It not all the leaves that are doing this, just some.
gupp said:
Dang, that look almost like it's got too much light/heat, maybe like it's cooking the roots. Are you indoor or outdoor?
Click to expand...
 
E

echlectica

Well-Known Member
It is a potassium deficiency. You keep giving them Mg and too much Mg will lock out the K. That is your problem.
 
C

cgrizzle3

Well-Known Member
Yea i thought that too, but i also tried with lower amount of cal-mag. Does anyone know about fox farm, and their feeding schedule?
echlectica said:
It is a potassium deficiency. You keep giving them Mg and too much Mg will lock out the K. That is your problem.
Click to expand...
 
*BUDS

*BUDS

Well-Known Member
I didnt understand that either neved :dunce:. Looks like your ph is out causing trace element lockout, get it to 5.8 and calibrate your meter.
 
U

unity

Well-Known Member
Hard to tell with just one pic of a leaf. How about a view pics of the entire plant.
 
E

echlectica

Well-Known Member
unity said:
Hard to tell with just one pic of a leaf. How about a view pics of the entire plant.
Click to expand...
true but with the pic and the info given I think K deficiency, especially in flower. The other think is damage from K deficency often does not become visible until well after it occurs.
 
S

smokeemup

Member
i had this problem with my first and second grow i found my problems were due to my soil not light my temp sits on 32 now that hot and dont have that problem i think that they are drowning no oxigen to the roots how often do u water and have u got perlite or media in your soil i add 20% media to my soil now and always adjust ph level of water and never had a problem since
 
C

cgrizzle3

Well-Known Member
Its not a ph problem either...I own a hanna 98129 and a blu lab combo meter. Both are calibrated frequently, and i keep my ph between 5.8 and 6.2...i am real tedious when it comes to the ph, ppm, etc. Thank you for your response...with everyones opinion we can surely narrow it down.
*BUDS said:
I didnt understand that either neved :dunce:. Looks like your ph is out causing trace element lockout, get it to 5.8 and calibrate your meter.
Click to expand...
 
C

cgrizzle3

Well-Known Member
This is a ebb and flow setup, no soil. I do soil also, and i dont have this problem. I also aerate my resevoire with a 80 w pump for 2 55 gallon drums, so i dont think its a oxygen problem. I feed 4 times a day in the light cycle for 15 minutes.
smokeemup said:
i had this problem with my first and second grow i found my problems were due to my soil not light my temp sits on 32 now that hot and dont have that problem i think that they are drowning no oxigen to the roots how often do u water and have u got perlite or media in your soil i add 20% media to my soil now and always adjust ph level of water and never had a problem since
Click to expand...
 
C

cgrizzle3

Well-Known Member
It is rather a k problem, or a overfeeding problem i beleive. How would you correct a k problem? ALso, do you have any experience with fox farm nutrients? I think the key might be in the nut's.
echlectica said:
true but with the pic and the info given I think K deficiency, especially in flower. The other think is damage from K deficency often does not become visible until well after it occurs.
Click to expand...
 
S

sotamomo

Member
cgrizzle I'm not expert but I've gotten good at reading leaves when they are ON the tree....sometimes to know what deficiency you have you have to know things like did it start with older leaves at the bottom or younger leaves at the top...is this the same effect on the WHOLE tree or just a specific area, when the WHOLE tree droops it could mean you over watered.... and if the whole tree droops over and the very tip of the leaves curl....YOU OVER WATERED AND OVER FED THEM so to get the most accurate advice, I would advise you to upload NOT just "a leaf"...lol lets see what I can do for you. Let say that it is an over feeding problem...tell me this. what are your ppms @ right now exactly. How do you take your measurments? PAY close attention to things like the "HOWTO" of things,...when testing for ph or ppms make sure you do so in water that isnt moving(in other words make sure you move any air stones and take your readings away from anything that moves the water,)some ppl take their readings right next to an airstone...doing so will give you the wrong readings..and could having u adding more nutes when u shouldnt. when you are taking your readings HOW? do u do ur readings? there are two ways you wanna go about this, first

1. If you have left your rez untouched and you come to take a daily reading, sit your meters in the water and let them sit for 2 mins first! Then as you put your meters in the water the numbers start to move around...but keep in mind that as your meters begin to match the temperature of the res for accuracy this takes this, 2 mins as mentioned earlier..now after that it should start to settle on a number and either slowly increase or decrease, what I do is once it settles on a certain number I count to 20 seconds, if it doesnt move THATS your accurate number!

now if you add nutrients to your res and take a reading 2mins later your gonna get an incorrect reading, because u didnt give the nutrients all the time it needed to evenly spread in your solution.
Anyhow:
in the case of ppms this could mean a 10 - 40 point difference.......There was a plant that wouldnt eat at 450 ppms but would eat at 440 ppms but ONLY after about an hour
so if you're OFF with your numbers they might not eat because its just to strong...which would mean you'd need to dilute your res
(which you can do THAT in two ways depending on much u need to dilute) I determine how I dilute my rez based on how full it is....If u have a 22gallon rez and you've filled it up to 21 gallons then u really dont have much room left to add RO water to dilute it, so what you do is scoop out 2 gallons of your rez water . and add 1 gallon of distill RO water u will add from this point you'll see how much it has droped your ppm numbers and from their you're good. Wit aeroponics when something goes back you know almost immediately if you are paying attention to your leaves

but recover takes about 3-4 hours at the lease and as much as a week depending on your problem.


Now in your case of this leaf show me some more pictures
 
C

cgrizzle3

Well-Known Member
Thank you for your response. I will get a picture today for you of the whole plant. But i can tell you this...the leaves that are doing this in this cycle are just randomly all over the plant. Alot of the plant looks very healthy. Im starting to think it could be something else...tell me what you think about this. The way we do it it we have a ebb and flow table...we fill up with net pots filled with hydroton and our small clones. Then we will the rest of the table up with hydroton. When they are ready, we transfer them to our ebb and grow bucket system. What im thinking this might be is when we transfer the plants have a well established root system, and we kind of have to tear the plants roots from eachother. Im thinking this is what could of caused the leaves to look like that, whatever roots got damaged the most. What do you think? Also, the reason i thought it might be a overfeeding problem is because i have been using fox farms shcedule as it says. I didnt count that cal mag, and silica add more ppms. So now i reduced to 3/4 fox farm schedule, and half the amount of cal mag and now my ec is in range. I use a blue lab combo meter and i do make sure i leave it in resevoir for enough time.
sotamomo said:
cgrizzle I'm not expert but I've gotten good at reading leaves when they are ON the tree....sometimes to know what deficiency you have you have to know things like did it start with older leaves at the bottom or younger leaves at the top...is this the same effect on the WHOLE tree or just a specific area, when the WHOLE tree droops it could mean you over watered.... and if the whole tree droops over and the very tip of the leaves curl....YOU OVER WATERED AND OVER FED THEM so to get the most accurate advice, I would advise you to upload NOT just "a leaf"...lol lets see what I can do for you. Let say that it is an over feeding problem...tell me this. what are your ppms @ right now exactly. How do you take your measurments? PAY close attention to things like the "HOWTO" of things,...when testing for ph or ppms make sure you do so in water that isnt moving(in other words make sure you move any air stones and take your readings away from anything that moves the water,)some ppl take their readings right next to an airstone...doing so will give you the wrong readings..and could having u adding more nutes when u shouldnt. when you are taking your readings HOW? do u do ur readings? there are two ways you wanna go about this, first

1. If you have left your rez untouched and you come to take a daily reading, sit your meters in the water and let them sit for 2 mins first! Then as you put your meters in the water the numbers start to move around...but keep in mind that as your meters begin to match the temperature of the res for accuracy this takes this, 2 mins as mentioned earlier..now after that it should start to settle on a number and either slowly increase or decrease, what I do is once it settles on a certain number I count to 20 seconds, if it doesnt move THATS your accurate number!

now if you add nutrients to your res and take a reading 2mins later your gonna get an incorrect reading, because u didnt give the nutrients all the time it needed to evenly spread in your solution.
Anyhow:
in the case of ppms this could mean a 10 - 40 point difference.......There was a plant that wouldnt eat at 450 ppms but would eat at 440 ppms but ONLY after about an hour
so if you're OFF with your numbers they might not eat because its just to strong...which would mean you'd need to dilute your res
(which you can do THAT in two ways depending on much u need to dilute) I determine how I dilute my rez based on how full it is....If u have a 22gallon rez and you've filled it up to 21 gallons then u really dont have much room left to add RO water to dilute it, so what you do is scoop out 2 gallons of your rez water . and add 1 gallon of distill RO water u will add from this point you'll see how much it has droped your ppm numbers and from their you're good. Wit aeroponics when something goes back you know almost immediately if you are paying attention to your leaves

but recover takes about 3-4 hours at the lease and as much as a week depending on your problem.


Now in your case of this leaf show me some more pictures
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top