Can I Run Those Three COBs on a 60W Marshydro Driver?

Driver specs:

model: PT1004F-60W (60W)
in: 100-240V
out: 55-100V (0.69-0.72A)

Can I run three CREE CXA2540 on one driver?

I am still not understanding how this works. So 3x36V COBs like the CXA2540 (I mention the CXA2540 because I can get those VERY cheap) = 108V - but [email protected] = 75.6W.

So if I were to connect three COBs in series, but the overall draw is more than the 60W, what happens? Is the driver then reducing voltage it puts out? Or is the driver overdriven, would be damaged/blow up?

My goal is to make a light from a fixture (which has TWO Marshydro 60W drivers) that should output approx. 19,000 lms.

Seeing that the older COBs have roughly 3200lms I will need 6 COBs per fixture, 3 COBs per driver.
Would that be possible with those Marshydro drivers? Eg. using Vero 18 or CXA/CXB2530/2540.

Other combos would be considered too, eg. if I use two LEDs per driver (instead of three), then each LED at 30W, but each module would need to output 4750lms at that wattage. Possible?

Thanks!

Hard to tell what would happen without technical information on the driver, but I don't think it would be good either way.

3 Vero 18s would only need 90 volts though.

flexy123 said:

Driver specs:

model: PT1004F-60W (60W)
in: 100-240V
out: 55-100V (0.69-0.72A)

Can I run three CREE CXA2540 on one driver?

I am still not understanding how this works. So 3x36V COBs like the CXA2540 (I mention the CXA2540 because I can get those VERY cheap) = 108V - but [email protected] = 75.6W.

So if I were to connect three COBs in series, but the overall draw is more than the 60W, what happens? Is the driver then reducing voltage it puts out? Or is the driver overdriven, would be damaged/blow up?

My goal is to make a light from a fixture (which has TWO Marshydro 60W drivers) that should output approx. 19,000 lms.

Seeing that the older COBs have roughly 3200lms I will need 6 COBs per fixture, 3 COBs per driver.
Would that be possible with those Marshydro drivers? Eg. using Vero 18 or CXA/CXB2530/2540.

Other combos would be considered too, eg. if I use two LEDs per driver (instead of three), then each LED at 30W, but each module would need to output 4750lms at that wattage. Possible?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Where are you getting CXA2540 cheap? Care to share?

Run a single 72v 3590 on each driver. Higher efficiency. I wouldn't exceed the max voltage though. don't forget your fan voltage if you're reusing the case.

2 x 72v cxb3590 3000k CB
2 x 18v cxa1512 6500k N2(to fill voltage)

One driver is running one 3590 and the fan, the other driver is running a 3590 with the 2 1512s in series-parallel.

CXB3590 [email protected] would "only" be 5000lms (for the 3500k) and the CX512, say 1000lms, which would make a total of 12,000lms for one fixture.

Ok let me look at three Vero 18, estimating 2700lms each at 0.7A, would be 16,200.
Ok, so Vero looking "better", now just looking at lumes.

>>
3 Vero 18s would only need 90 volts though.
>>
Would that be a problem?

(PS. the reason I want close to 18,000-19,000lms (for one fixture) is that I want to recycle two fixtures which then overall should output as much light as my existing light which has 4x CXB3590 (which I estimate at 9000lms for one COB, so total 36,000lms +/-. Obviously if I add a light to expand my growing area it should about match the one I already have)

Your numbers are off. Cxb3590 3500k CD bin 72v @ .7A is 8,900 lumens. 17,800 for 2.

I'm doing the same, 2 fixtures for my 2'7"x2'7" tent. My 3000k CB fixture is 18,000 lumens, gonna do a 5000k CD fixture to go with it, should be around 19,000.

You are right! Seems this where I looked at


is for the 36V version. Sheesh this is what you get if people post specs and leave out important details.

Edit: Oh wow, I see you did EXACTLY that I want to do with my Marshydros. Brilliant!

The Kapton tape really strong enough and it holds the COBs like this? Did you just remove the panel with the LEDs and tape the chips on the heatsink? Or did you use some aluminum plate on top of the HS like I saw in some video?

If you have a link with the exact steps you did to convert your light, that would be fantastic!

I've got some pix of the insides of the mars driver both models that fan model & the fanless
the fan less is missing the header for fan pwr
Pix on my Perpetual hack thread

Mars Hydro 300w (60x5)


I went with mouser for chips. I wanted to run a 3000k fixture and a 5000k fixture together. I got 2 x cxb3590 3000k 72v CB. The12v fan is shared on a driver, so one 72v cob is on that driver, and with extra available voltage on the other, I decided for 2 x 18v Cree cxa1512 6500k to add to the second driver. These will be in parallel with each other, and series with the cxb3590.

The heat sink in here is trash, my sneezes dissipate heat better than this flimsy thing. The issue inside the box becomes space. Upgrading the heatsink requires removing the glass to mount the heatsink lower down. I went with 4.85" x 7" from heatsinkusa.com, 2 of them in this mars, short enough to fit inside nicely, and much better heat management. There are different model Mars 300(60x5), so measure your space and height in it. This one is from last March, fits 2 heatsinks kinda loose. Doing another one now (60x5) and it took some prying to fit 2 in.



Then just spread arctic silver 5 evenly on each chip, presses them on the heatsink(after lightly sanding and cleaning with alcohol) and kapton tape on it.





Then into the fixture for wiring. Nothing holding it in but a bunch of silicone. Chose to leave a gap between heatsink at the center for wires. One wired alone with the fan. The other in series parallel, simple enough.



I plugged it up for a test run then let the silicone dry and its been in my tent for about 12 hours now.





I also did a lux reading at different points between this light, another Mars Hydro 300w(60x5) and a 600w HPS. Cheap eBay lux meter but should be fine enough for a quick comparison. Mainly wanted to see the spread.

Mars Hydro 300 eBay model(60x5($65))(135w wall)
12" high, center 33,500 lux
12" high, 12" from center 9,500 lux
18" high, center 21,000 lux
18" high, 12" from center 7,500 lux

600w Hortilux HPS(4 month old bulb)(measurements from center of bulb, higher heights because I can't put it at 12" without torching my plants.)
18" high, center 81,500 lux
18" high, 12" from center 50,500 lux
24" high, center 55,000 lux
24" high, 12" from center 35,000 lux

New Mars to Cree(120w)
12" high, center 65,500 lux
12" high, 12" from center 31,000 lux
18" high, center 38,000 lux
18" high, 12" from center 21,000 lux


The spread of the Mars Hydro lights are garbage, but I'm sure everyone here knew that lol.

Nice Job !

Awesome pics!

I am aware the heatsink is "meh" to say it mildly, but then it has a 120mm fan, I GUESS the meh original heatsink *should* be "ok" to dissipate 100-120W, like the original draw of the Marshydros. The point of my experiment would be to reuse as much as possible, buying a rather expensive HS would sort-of not make sense. (Then I could as well build another kickass light, just get a 1m bar form TME for $35 and then mount 4x COBs on it).

As for Arctic silver (or better: Arctic MX4), I am working with this stuff for ages already since I am into PC modding.
I am still concerned the chips might "come loose" at some point since I don't know how strong Kapton tape is. I know that those thermal pastes never dry out, they are not glue, although they have a stickiness to them. I just don't want the chips to fall off over time...but I guess it's sufficient?

use holders if in doubt on the tape simple . u actually do not want the glass
think reflectors instead imo

Glas is cool, I actually got lenses for my COBs. I can live with 5%-10% loss but I am growing semi-outside (balcony), LOTS of dust so I want those a little protected.

Edit: Dust, bugs etc...

Just double checking,

A) CXB3590 and fan, IN SERIES
B) CXB3590 and (2x CX1512, parallel), IN SERIES

(Stupid question but the fan will hardly be parallel to the driver which outputs 100V, but just double checking can't hurt )

Edit: Is it that the fan isn't already connected to one driver, so how the fan must be wired can be disregarded. (That's probably what you mean with "it's shared")

flexy123 said:

Glas is cool, I actually got lenses for my COBs. I can live with 5%-10% loss but I am growing semi-outside (balcony), LOTS of dust so I want those a little protected.

Edit: Dust, bugs etc...

Click to expand...

yeah that's great on lens I feel the reason for no glass is heat related on yer hack
IMO that stock mars glass panel would hold too much heat from dissipating from the flat side of the sink
that % of light loss thru glass vs protection concern varies on each person's unique gro conditions

the mars driver has fan power pins on it's pcb board

meanwells do NOT have this fan power circuit they just drive the LED cobs
If that's what you mean ?

Yep that's what I wanted to know/thought. So in other words it's already attached (or there is a way to attach it directly). Just didn't remember from opening my lights

Edit: That light hack seems not only be very easy to do, it amazes me because it might be ALMOST on par to the light I just have made and there I paid €435, everything included, parts, s/h and some labor for them making them.

4x CXB3590, lenses, holders and s/h from KB: €240
Heatsink: €37
Some change for fans, approx. €20
€55 labor
And I went nuts and bought the very expensive Meanwell HLG 240 1750mA which was €82

So if I can get the COBs cheap and do this I can make a light almost on par for €160-€180, don't need HS, fans, drivers etc....this is awesome.

Yeah the fan is on a seperate output on driver B in mine. No need to touch it's wires, but just have to remember it's pulling 12v from that driver.

You could do a single cxa1512 and put it in series and it runs at 100%, I just went with 2 so I could run them softer and get a bit more efficiency.

Heat was my concern. Plus 2 of these heatsinks are only $14 and its cool to the touch. The glass had to be removed or the case wouldn't close fully with a new heatsink. If you opted to keep the existing heatsink you'll still need an aluminum sheet to go in there like growmau5s mars 400 video.

The arctic silver 5 looks strong enough to hold the chips on itself. But yeah, you could just use cob holders or something. I was just going for the simplest method.

I didn't exactly get why he put an aluminum sheet there? Can't you just tape the chips on the bare heatsink? (After removing the panel with the LEDs)

Edit: NVM, I see why I need the plate.... the HS is a lot smaller.