Building Prototype 300W CXB3590 Bar Need Comments Suggestions.

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
OK so I have been lurking and reading almost every thread on this ballin led section just sponging up all I can. I have an electrical background so am quite confident I can build a pretty powerful yet efficient light. I was going to use the HLG 185 700C but was thinking I will be stuck at 200w per bar and if a more powerful efficient cob comes along I will have the juice to run it. The plan is to build 3 of these units to cover a 4x4 or 5x5 depending on what type of space I get.

PARTS
4 CXB3590 CB 72v 3500K
2 HLG 185-1050C
4 Ideal Holders
Wago connectors
4 Alpine 11 CPU coolers
(don't know if the 3590 will fit on these coolers)
Open to suggestions on that.

PRICES
COBS-230$
Drivers-150$
Coolers-50$
Cob Holders-10$
Total Per Bar ~450$
I will be building a frame out of L channel aluminum frame to mount the coolers. Approx 48 inches long.

So according to efficiency spreadsheets each bar will be running at 302.5W
At about 45% efficiency. I will be running them around 700ma most of the time but want to be able to ramp it up during the cold months and when I really want the intensity up.

Any insight on how I could save some money here without giving up efficiency or effectiveness and safety? These are going to be pricey but from what I see seem to be worth the time and money. Might also look into lenses after I build and see how well the three bars light the area.
 

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
Also Heatsinkusa and some fans might be a little better for your bar idea. :smile:

Passive cooling would make the build even cleaner, could be accomplished in a larger room such as yours.
I'm with you its just passive would cost me even more money which the wattage I'm using would cost a fortune. Too much wattage to cool reasonably without fans
 

DoctorDelta9

Well-Known Member
Also Heatsinkusa and some fans might be a little better for your bar idea. :smile:

Passive cooling would make the build even cleaner, could be accomplished in a larger room such as yours.
I would recommend HSUSA as well. The artic coolers are nice but if one fan goes out you have the potential to fry your cob. The amount of aluminum to build bars is going to end up costing you, not as much as a large heatsink. But instead of cutting/welding a bunch of aluminum you can make it nice and clean with a 5.88 x 40-48 " bar for 80$
 

HydroDC

Well-Known Member
...4 Alpine 11 CPU coolers
(don't know if the 3590 will fit on these coolers) Open to suggestions on that.
Recently finished a light using 3590s on holders and used Alpine 64 Plus coolers (LINK). The 50-23 Ideal holders (LINK) fit fine on the base of these without any overhang. The pictures of the Arctic 11s suggested to me that the holders would not fit without overhanging. Here's a cut sheet showing dimensions of the 64 Plus that Arctic emailed to me (LINK). With a little shaping of the aluminum angle around the circumference of the holders, you should be able to screw the coolers on to the aluminum angle as well. Good luck with your build.
 

tightpockt

Well-Known Member
You can get a non-dimmable driver for 1/4 of the price. IMO I don't see the benefit of turning the light down, I hardly ever want LESS light.
 

bicit

Well-Known Member
You can get a non-dimmable driver for 1/4 of the price. IMO I don't see the benefit of turning the light down, I hardly ever want LESS light.
people who veg and grow in the same space can take advantage of dimming. Not everyone wants/can have a seperate veg space, and full strength cobs would be a bit of a waste for seedlings. Not to mention the warranty and up too 94% efficiency.

OK so I have been lurking and reading almost every thread on this ballin led section just sponging up all I can. I have an electrical background so am quite confident I can build a pretty powerful yet efficient light. I was going to use the HLG 185 700C but was thinking I will be stuck at 200w per bar and if a more powerful efficient cob comes along I will have the juice to run it. The plan is to build 3 of these units to cover a 4x4 or 5x5 depending on what type of space I get.

PARTS
4 CXB3590 CB 72v 3500K
2 HLG 185-1050C
4 Ideal Holders
Wago connectors
4 Alpine 11 CPU coolers
(don't know if the 3590 will fit on these coolers)
Open to suggestions on that.

PRICES
COBS-230$
Drivers-150$
Coolers-50$
Cob Holders-10$
Total Per Bar ~450$
I will be building a frame out of L channel aluminum frame to mount the coolers. Approx 48 inches long.

So according to efficiency spreadsheets each bar will be running at 302.5W
At about 45% efficiency. I will be running them around 700ma most of the time but want to be able to ramp it up during the cold months and when I really want the intensity up.

Any insight on how I could save some money here without giving up efficiency or effectiveness and safety? These are going to be pricey but from what I see seem to be worth the time and money. Might also look into lenses after I build and see how well the three bars light the area.



I'd suggest using a HLG-185H-C700[ ] to run 4, or a HLG-120H-C1050[ ] to run a pair. Using the HLG-185H-C1050[ ] would be over kill for two, and would only be a 75% load on the driver. Better to save the $10 or so.

I'd also recommend heatsinkusa for a bar instead of the CPU coolers. They will fit, on the cpu coolers, but not very well.

I'd suggest a 18" length of the 5.886" profile with a 140mm fan for each pair of CXB3590's powered by the HLG-120H-C1050A. You'll probably be pretty happy and be able to adjust them as needed to fit the canopy. Plus it should be fine running passive in case of a fan failure.
 

tightpockt

Well-Known Member
people who veg and grow in the same space can take advantage of dimming. Not everyone wants/can have a seperate veg space, and full strength cobs would be a bit of a waste for seedlings. Not to mention the warranty and up too 94% efficiency.






I'd suggest using a HLG-185H-C700[ ] to run 4, or a HLG-120H-C1050[ ] to run a pair. Using the HLG-185H-C1050[ ] would be over kill for two, and would only be a 75% load on the driver. Better to save the $10 or so.

I'd also recommend heatsinkusa for a bar instead of the CPU coolers. They will fit, on the cpu coolers, but not very well.

I'd suggest a 18" length of the 5.886" profile with a 140mm fan for each pair of CXB3590's powered by the HLG-120H-C1050A. You'll probably be pretty happy and be able to adjust them as needed to fit the canopy. Plus it should be fine running passive in case of a fan failure.
Good point if you're using a single light for veg and flower. I didn't think about that. However, if you're just using the light for flower I still have the same opinion.
After building my lights with cpu coolers I would have to agree that using something from heatsinkusa is more practical. It's about the same costs when you factor in the cost of angled aluminium and other hardware you need to put it all together and it's just much easier and cleaner.
 

bicit

Well-Known Member
Good point if you're using a single light for veg and flower. I didn't think about that. However, if you're just using the light for flower I still have the same opinion.
After building my lights with cpu coolers I would have to agree that using something from heatsinkusa is more practical. It's about the same costs when you factor in the cost of angled aluminium and other hardware you need to put it all together and it's just much easier and cleaner.
I'll be honest, I hate the way my early vero 18 builds look like. It was more hassle to work with the CPU coolers than I originally thought.
 

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
I would love to use the Heatsinkusa idea I just don't see buying 80 worth of aluminum and then fans on top of that being close to the cost of cpu coolers regardless of framing and bolts. BUT if it saves time and effort and looks much cleaner maybe I will pick one up and see how that goes then if I like it I'll stick to that. If not I can always go the CPU cooler way on other builds. I was thinking if I go with the heatsinks I will use 3 fans per 44 inch bar. Two on the outside blowing on the heatsink and one in the middle extracting as to not have opposing air in the middle causing turbulence and not cooling properly with a shroud between to keep the air in the channels. What do you guys think of that.?
 

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
Good luck
Did you consider vero 29's to save $
If I'm going to build a light I want the best. The vero looks good if you want to drive the piss out of them and get hps efficiency. I want to smash an hps with these bars, not replace a 300$ hps with a 1000$ led that will do the same. Not being a dick here just saying imo not worth the time effort or money when I already have the hids up and running.
 

DoctorDelta9

Well-Known Member
That is a 52" x 5.88 with one nocturnal fan. I used shrouds ( thanks @SupraSPL ) to direct the fan . it runs cool as a cucumber. I just built it today. 300w bar, cxb3590 x4, hlg-120h-1050c x2, noctuna 140mm fan, 12v 1a fan driver, sheet aluminum for the shrouds and the drivers sit on top. EverythingIMG_20150524_171315571_HDR.jpg IMG_20150524_142452909_HDR.jpgis wired into one pigtailIMG_20150524_171315571_HDR.jpgIMG_20150524_142452909_HDR.jpg IMG_20150524_115800500.jpg and it runs coooool. To the left is a 150w bar. I did a lot of research before I bought/built and I couldn't be happier
 

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Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
Quadruple Love that bar brother. Falkin Beauty bro that's pretty much exactly what I want to build! Props on that! How much did the one 300w bar cost you in parts?
 
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