Building New Growroom

Mitus

Well-Known Member
In my opinion though... This thing has to be pulling air from inside my room... there is no way it could have such a strong air flow out of the exhaust hose if it wasnt.

-Mitus
 

Mitus

Well-Known Member
wow the last few days are a blur... finally finished the light ventillation system and it works great. I ended up replacing the two 6" Sun Tube fixtures I was going to use on one side of the room with two 8" Sun System fixtures. I just didnt like how close a MH bulb came to the side of the 6" tube... Finally powered up a few lights and it felt good to see the room somewhat in action.

Things left to do : (besides wait for my ice box fixture in the mail)
1) finish sealing room edges with plaster etc.
2) run CO2 line around the room
3) steralize room and trays
4) hit up the hydro store for a few small things...
THEN ITS GAME TIME

-Mitus
 

sherriberry

New Member
dont know if you are growing in dirt or hydro....

but if you are in hydro, and you havent discovered this yet...

put your res's outside your room, that way your air tight room never has to be opened every day when you add more nutes and water to your res...

AND your res can stay nice and cool

AND you can fill your room with co2, and it wont be vented off as often.

not sure if you are using c02, but if you are, i would look into using the ac for the room air..

and venting the light heated air out of the room AND NOT SUCKING AIR FROM THE GROW ROOM INTO THE LIGHTS...

but rather having an external intake...

thus making the light cooling air... never smell to begin with...

and making the rest of your room completely air tight.

you can put the ac directly in the room, or again,

plumbing it so that the ac'd air comes straight from the room, and goes straight back in... again making that ducting air tight.

i would NOT suck air from inside your rooom if you ARE going to use the portable ac...

get yourself c02, and live happily ever after... you wont use much if the air in your room is closed circut as ive described.

plants dont need fresh air... they need to stay cool and c02... thats it.

if this has already been covered, i appologize, i was just stopping through...
 

Mitus

Well-Known Member
dont know if you are growing in dirt or hydro....

but if you are in hydro, and you havent discovered this yet...

put your res's outside your room, that way your air tight room never has to be opened every day when you add more nutes and water to your res...

AND your res can stay nice and cool

AND you can fill your room with co2, and it wont be vented off as often.

not sure if you are using c02, but if you are, i would look into using the ac for the room air..

and venting the light heated air out of the room AND NOT SUCKING AIR FROM THE GROW ROOM INTO THE LIGHTS...

but rather having an external intake...

thus making the light cooling air... never smell to begin with...

and making the rest of your room completely air tight.

you can put the ac directly in the room, or again,

plumbing it so that the ac'd air comes straight from the room, and goes straight back in... again making that ducting air tight.

i would NOT suck air from inside your rooom if you ARE going to use the portable ac...

get yourself c02, and live happily ever after... you wont use much if the air in your room is closed circut as ive described.

plants dont need fresh air... they need to stay cool and c02... thats it.

if this has already been covered, i appologize, i was just stopping through...
I'd like to think I have that all covered. :)

Read a few of the posts and you'll be up to speed.

-Mitus
 

sherriberry

New Member
i did read your posts... and we are almost on the same page...

only thing i would do different, and i mentioned it above but maybe you didnt catch it...

your air that cools your lights... it does not recirculate... it is intaked from your home or outside... and exhausted to your attic or home or outside.

the ac... is not connected to this in any way.

the ac is connected to the room itself, and put on a simple themostat.

the room is air tight, no intake or exhaust fan... except the tube that goes to the ac IF ac is located outside the room.

res is located outside the room as well... which does plenty of chilling on its own this way.

c02 is also outside the room if need be.

point is... your air tight room... stays air tight... and you can maintinace everything... from outside your room.

if you want... you could get a small small fan... and a tiny carbon filter, just to put your air tight room under vacuum... that way no odors leak out... and have the small carbon filter vent into your house or attic, doenst matter.
 

Mitus

Well-Known Member
If I had the room outside of the growroom, I might explore having my res located out there, but thats not doable at this time. As far as puting the CO2 tank outside the room, I'm down with that... In fact I may set that up tomorrow if it looks like it will work with the space.
I'm way ahead of ya on the fan/carbon filter in the room scrubing air.
The A/C unit I have uses air from the room it's located in and spits out cold air as well as exhausting out hot air through a 5" tube in the back of it. I've ran that 5" tube outside the growroom and am going to connect it to a 6" Hydro Gen Ice Box (which is chilled by a 1/4HP chiller). The then cooled exhaust air will make its way back into the growroom.

I understand what you're saying about being able to service the room from the outside and I totally dig it, but for my setup I'm going to be in there at least once every couple of days :) I'll also have the room under video monitor 24/7 if I want to peak in there haha

-Mitus
 

MoN3yb4Gs

Well-Known Member
Bro... I know it's not me asking the questions... but I would love to read your response, only it gives me a headache.

If you wouldn't mind could you throw in a couple line breaks... and maybe a capital letter at the beginning of a sentence?

It really does make things easier to read and comprehend. It would be a shame for all that typing to go to waste.

I'm like Jerry MacGwire... I'm trying to help you help people, haha.
lol...Jig...Your the shit...haha
 

bulguode

Member
I accept with information:
Lets start with going over the space I have...
I'm using a room that is about 14'x14'... inside that room I have built 2 additional ways so that i close off a 12'x12' space and leave a 2' space around 2 sides of the room. The purpose behind leaving the 2' foot space was so that I cold keep my ballasts and other heat producing gear seperate from my growroom. Also I feel this may be an easier way to control the air flow to and from the room as well as to the air cooled lights.
 

buggin69

Active Member
i did read your posts... and we are almost on the same page...

only thing i would do different, and i mentioned it above but maybe you didnt catch it...

your air that cools your lights... it does not recirculate... it is intaked from your home or outside... and exhausted to your attic or home or outside.

the ac... is not connected to this in any way.

the ac is connected to the room itself, and put on a simple themostat.

the room is air tight, no intake or exhaust fan... except the tube that goes to the ac IF ac is located outside the room.

res is located outside the room as well... which does plenty of chilling on its own this way.

c02 is also outside the room if need be.

point is... your air tight room... stays air tight... and you can maintinace everything... from outside your room.

if you want... you could get a small small fan... and a tiny carbon filter, just to put your air tight room under vacuum... that way no odors leak out... and have the small carbon filter vent into your house or attic, doenst matter.

your ventilation setup is exactly what he already has... you mis read
 

jigfresh

Well-Known Member
bulguode - I think you are a little confused at how to use this website. This 'thread' here is talking about building Mitus' growroom... not just building any growroom in the world. If you want advise and answers you should start a threat like this one for your room. Go to the correct section off the home page and click "New Thread"

your ventilation setup is exactly what he already has... you mis read
Mitus... question. Are you running the lights off one timer? I was looking at your controlled mess (looks alright to me). But I realized that there was an inherant problem with our/ your wiring. You would need separate timers for each outlet.

In case you haven't already figured things out... I'm pretty sure you can get a heavy duty 240v timer and put it in line just before the 240v outlets. That way it just turns the outlets on and off. Still use one timer... and have the lights in different sockets.
 

myxedup

Active Member
Mitus purchased a C.A.P. Master Lighting Controller and so all of the 240 volt receptacles I don't believe are wired any longer. It's the white box in the pictures next to the subpanel now. :)
 

jigfresh

Well-Known Member
Mitus purchased a C.A.P. Master Lighting Controller and so all of the 240 volt receptacles I don't believe are wired any longer. It's the white box in the pictures next to the subpanel now. :)
Sweet. I don't really know what those fancy boxes do... out of my range.
 
Here is a little FYI. Watt is a measure of work. Ampere(amp) is a measure of electricity in motion.. And Volt is a measure of electricity under pressure. Don't be like my friend, and make sure you use a breaker switch. This will "trip" or turn off when the electrical circuit is overloaded.
OHMS POWER LAW: volts x Amps= Watts.
110 Volts x 3.6 Amps= 396 Watts.
220 Volts x 1.8 Amps= 396 Watts.
Remember that White and black wires conduct electricity. The green ground wire is for Safety. Hope this helps you get back in the game. Good Luck Man!!!!!!
 

Mitus

Well-Known Member
Ya originally I had those four 240 outlets wired to the sub-panel, but after I found out I'd need 4 seperate timers I went and picked up a C.A.P. MLC-X4. That device replaced my 240v outlets because it need to be hardwired to the sub-panel. I also had to change from a double 20A breaker to a double 30A breaker so I could power it properly. The MLC-X4 has an ignition device that runs off of a 120v plug. I have that on a timer, along with my ventilation fans, so they all boot up off of one timer.

-Mitus
 

buggin69

Active Member
Ya originally I had those four 240 outlets wired to the sub-panel, but after I found out I'd need 4 seperate timers I went and picked up a C.A.P. MLC-X4. That device replaced my 240v outlets because it need to be hardwired to the sub-panel. I also had to change from a double 20A breaker to a double 30A breaker so I could power it properly. The MLC-X4 has an ignition device that runs off of a 120v plug. I have that on a timer, along with my ventilation fans, so they all boot up off of one timer.

-Mitus

you are on top of things my man... you are an inspiration

haha
 

Mitus

Well-Known Member
And I was inspired by people on rollitup like GoHydro, SOG & Jackmayoffer... just trying to pass the love along :)

-Mitus
 

bloatedcraig

Well-Known Member
just looking at the pics, cant help thinking that if you are going to put the ballast's inside the grow room get a small ossilating fan blowing on them. You will increase the life span.
 

Mitus

Well-Known Member
ballasts are located outside the growroom and are cooled by central air and an oscilating fan
 

Mitus

Well-Known Member
So instead of running a different res for each of the three trays I changed my plan a little... I picked up a 70 gal res yesterday and today I ran drains from each table to the res. I also ran my main line for all my drip lines around the room. I'll post up some pics or a drawing later. Still waiting for my 6" ice box in the mail... i'll let ya know how it goes.

-Mitus
 
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