Building a new room ?

You just want cheap mass, so the standard 5/8" drywall is great. Very heavy and cheap. Easy to work with.

Should I bug bomb the room and then clean it before I put plants in there?

Tyleb173rd said:

Should I bug bomb the room and then clean it before I put plants in there?

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No. Just mop the floor with some Dr. Bonners peppermint soap water.

What AC system are you going to use?

fandango said:

What AC system are you going to use?

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My best guess is I won't have much need for it this year. By next year the flower space will be all COBs.
I only have a portable and I already have that vented if needed. There won't be any ladies growing until September. There are plans for this room to hav a mini-split for next year. I'll cap the wires and put it behind a plate on the wall.

The room will also have 10ft ceilings.

Would you guys recommend a steel door?

yes. its gasketed

Tyleb173rd said:

4. Should I tile the floor or leave the concrete exposed?

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You can certainly leave the concrete floor as-is if it is in good condition. I, however, am a big fan of epoxy floor coatings for concrete. You can use a relatively expensive garage floor coating that seals perfectly and looks great or go with a cheaper one-part epoxy, or an even cheaper and easier non-epoxy floor/porch paint. Anything that seals bare concrete makes cleanup easier, and epoxy coatings are wonderfully smooth and durable if you are using a floor drain, not to mention quicker and easier to install than tile.

I love tile and it is still preferred wherever appearance and a lot of foot traffic are concerns, but for a grow room an epoxy-coated or even painted floor is a nice, functional touch. So this is really just about your preferences, budget, and desired effort level. If going with the bare concrete, I'd give it a good scrub down before beginning construction, for ease without concern about where water and detergent goes, then another good cleaning after painting and finishing the room, but it should be fine.

Tyleb173rd said:

Would you guys recommend a steel door?

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What are your alternatives, and why are you thinking steel? An insulated steel door provides good insulation and installs easily. A hollow-core wood door would be at the opposite end of the spectrum, with solid wood doors probably cost prohibitive. Pre-hung steel doors aren't too expensive come already sealed fairly well. In terms of security, if that's a concern, door choice isn't too important, since the lockset or frame will probably be the weak point if someone is determined to break your door down. Hopefully that scenario doesn't need to be on your radar!

I assumed an insulated steel door would be preferred over a hollow interior door. Security isn't as much as an issue as having a sealed room.

We may run the well water into the room. I'll get a water tester kit tomorrow and see what comes of it.

tyleb what up from A2. Good luck building your room. I'm building a second flower room now too, so these are all good tips. Go Blue

brownbusta said:

tyleb what up from A2. Good luck building your room. I'm building a second flower room now too, so these are all good tips. Go Blue

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Word!!! We are getting materials today. It's very exciting. HAIL TO THE VICTORS!!!!

Rrog said:

This... Instead of building an aquarium, control the environment. Most rooms are not using rubber paint. Few rooms, in fact.

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He's saying ambient humidity is high in his region, and this can be a problem for stick walls purely because drywall is porous on its own. For a truly sealed room in these conditions, liquid rubber is just about the best way to achieve it.

ruwtz said:

He's saying ambient humidity is high in his region, and this can be a problem for stick walls purely because drywall is porous on its own. For a truly sealed room in these conditions, liquid rubber is just about the best way to achieve it.

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Thanks for the clarification.

I used marine ply for my walls its been in there now for 3 years. But its not cheap and if go to any good paint shop they will sell you paint for mould. But i just use the white plastic for the wall and re place it every 2or3 years I would make sure your plants are up off the floor as concrete or tiles can be very cold not good for your plants. This room I made my self and wouldn't change a thing it runs prefect and pulls very good number out of it

bryangtho said:

I used marine ply for my walls its been in there now for 3 years. But its not cheap and if go to any good paint shop they will sell you paint for mould. But i just use the white plastic for the wall and re place it every 2or3 years I would make sure your plants are up off the floor as concrete or tiles can be very cold not good for your plants. This room I made my self and wouldn't change a thing it runs prefect and pulls very good number out of it

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Thanks. I'm building plant dollies that will be several inches off the ground.

I have used 15 gallon Geopots on rolling carts. Hardware cloth top on the cart to allow the air under the Geopot. On 1" ball bearing castors, so the whole cart is only 4 1/2" tall.

We started today. By the time it's all said and done I'll have a 4.5ft X 8ft flowering space. 3.5ft in one direction is for plant movement and foot traffic,

Paint question:
Is Kilz oil based preferred for both primer and paint?