Bucket color dictates water temps?
- Thread starter noxiously
- Start date
Illegal Smile
Well-Known Member
LOL "who" wants to argue?
And "who" can't show us a source that says over 70 is dangerous?
This is like the nimrods who think pH "has" to be at 5.8
And "who" can't show us a source that says over 70 is dangerous?
This is like the nimrods who think pH "has" to be at 5.8
dbkick
Well-Known Member
nimrods that think nutrient lockout is a make believe thing.
noxiously
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info guys. Room temp is running around 75 to 78, but that's away from the lights, top of buckets are running around 80 to 84 on one and the other runs around 90. Two different types of reflectors are being used, one is a bat wing and that's the one that runs higher temps at the bucket. Fan is running across both to help dissipate the heat, but the two plants are still small and hasn't created a canopy yet. Thought about painting the buckets white as well as using some kind of insulation, maybe foam, to help block out light and heat. Water temps do play a huge role in the formation of bacteria and mold. Ever hear of FATTOM? It's the recipe for breeding bacteria on food, Food, Acid, Time, Temprature, Oxygen, Moisture, and a bubble bucket produces pretty much all of these. Acid levels arent too low or high, Plenty of time, temps are always in the danger zone of 40-140 which is the breeding temps for bacteria, plenty of oxygen is present in the water due to air pumps, and moisture is abundant, the food can be the nutrients especially organics as well as any sugars that may be present for bacteria to munch on.
After the last disaster the buckets, lids, air stone, hydroton, tubing, PH pen, TDS meter and caps,eaduring devices, and the 5 ml droppers was soaked over night in a strong bleach solution, and the floors and walls were washed with a strong bleach solution.
After the last disaster the buckets, lids, air stone, hydroton, tubing, PH pen, TDS meter and caps,eaduring devices, and the 5 ml droppers was soaked over night in a strong bleach solution, and the floors and walls were washed with a strong bleach solution.
Pimpernickel
Well-Known Member
Wrapping/covering the buckets in B/W poly works great. I keep my system covered in veg but once I switch to flower I leave my epi wide open and never have algae issues. I keep my temps down at 67-68 though. Whatever you do you'll need some cooling. A chiller would obviously be great, other options are coils recircing through an ice chest that you refill periodically or frozen bottles of water. The best bet imo would be connecting your buckets and using a chiller, everything will be the same, it'll run perfect, it'll pay for itself in a grow.
Illegal Smile
Well-Known Member
My temp right now on top of the foliage is 81. On top of the res it is 68 and down in the water it would be lower still.
PakaloloHui
Active Member
hey guys can I make a suggestion on cooling.
2 Bucket Ice Puck Method.
Grab another bucket to place your DWC Bucket into.
Fill with water, just enough to barely hit the bottom of your DWC Bucket.
This water level will be our marker for the next step. ICE PUCK TRAY.
Now you must sacrifice a bucket or two to make the ice trays, but this is what we are after.
Cut up a few buckets at just the level that the water was or a bit more to make your Ice tray(s) with.
Fill Ice Puck Tray with water and freeze.
When frozen place into the bottom of a bucket, then place your DWC bucket into that bucket.
I would also suggest to put some sort of wrapping, a insulation or reflective material, or paint the outer bucket.
This in effect is like a mini cooler without the beer, just a DWC bucket to keep chilled.
The Ice Pucks may last longer this way than the ice bottle floating in a reservoir exposed to excess light and heat.
Just my 2 cents worth.
2 Bucket Ice Puck Method.
Grab another bucket to place your DWC Bucket into.
Fill with water, just enough to barely hit the bottom of your DWC Bucket.
This water level will be our marker for the next step. ICE PUCK TRAY.
Now you must sacrifice a bucket or two to make the ice trays, but this is what we are after.
Cut up a few buckets at just the level that the water was or a bit more to make your Ice tray(s) with.
Fill Ice Puck Tray with water and freeze.
When frozen place into the bottom of a bucket, then place your DWC bucket into that bucket.
I would also suggest to put some sort of wrapping, a insulation or reflective material, or paint the outer bucket.
This in effect is like a mini cooler without the beer, just a DWC bucket to keep chilled.
The Ice Pucks may last longer this way than the ice bottle floating in a reservoir exposed to excess light and heat.
Just my 2 cents worth.
noxiously
Well-Known Member
PakaloloHui, I was thinking something similar to that. I was thinking about getting a few of those small foam coolers, or get a bucket that is a little bigger and put the DWC bucket into that and pour ice in between the DWC bucket and the outer bucket/foam cooler and cover the top with something so the light doesn't melt the ice as fast. Not sure how well it would work, or how long the ice would last, but I would imagine it would keep the water in the DWC bucket fairly cold, just wonder if it would be too cold though.
PakaloloHui
Active Member
The frozen puck should last a bit longer than cubes, crushed ice vs. blocked ice. As far as the temps go, that would have to be experimental, a indoor outdoor temp. device with a waterproof outdoor temp reading for water, they are cheap and most standard ones used for gardening will also allow you to use the outside probe for water.A regular foam cooler with ice and a hole cut in the top of the foam to fit your bucket would also work, but cut it so the bucket is a tight fit. And monitor the temps inside the DWC bucket. From here you can pop the lid to cool, add hot water to the cooler, take out ice, add more. still cheaper than a chiller. After a bit with steady room temps you should have your formula down.
PakaloloHui
Active Member
what's attached just past your shut off valve??? what size water pump?
dbkick
Well-Known Member
The valve has a barbed fitting I used to pop a hose on and drain with, I use 400 gph pumps as a standard for applications like this.
PakaloloHui
Active Member
Thanks,
oh yeah, nice system.
Did this particular cooler have it's own drain at the bottom and sealed now, or was there none? Therefore you drain through pump and fittings.
that was my last ???
oh yeah, nice system.
Did this particular cooler have it's own drain at the bottom and sealed now, or was there none? Therefore you drain through pump and fittings.
that was my last ???
dbkick
Well-Known Member
yeah actually all the coolers I buy have 3/4 inch hose fittings but I found it easier to just drain like I did, cramped spaces and all. I'm currently running two coolers and a bucket on a ebb monster(emptying my room tomorrow to start rebuild). I hook them up thru the 3/4 inch hose fitting.
dbkick
Well-Known Member
feel free to ask anything but I kinda feel we're jacking OP's thread. I'd say you could just PM me if you had any questions but I recently got my hand spanked and lost PM privy 
, haha. You can find me mainly over at the dissent grow thread, anything and everything is welcome there. as long as we don't piss the wrong people off :/
, haha. You can find me mainly over at the dissent grow thread, anything and everything is welcome there. as long as we don't piss the wrong people off :/
ohmy
Well-Known Member
Kidding about lossing the pm's rite ? That sounds like grade school gamesfeel free to ask anything but I kinda feel we're jacking OP's thread. I'd say you could just PM me if you had any questions but I recently got my hand spanked and lost PM privy
dbkick
Well-Known Member
Try to PM me and find out, I "spammed" a different forum url to a friend and the "spam filter" caught it and I have no PM, haha.
Sorry again OP let me add something on topic....igloo coolers ftw!