Breaker Keeps Blowing

spex420

Well-Known Member
have my bloom room n my veg room on the same breaker when my heaters are running nd my bloom lights switch on it blows the breaker is there somthing i can get to prevent this from happening?
 

personified

Active Member
A yeah.. change circuts before you burn your house down! Typical house is set up with 15 or 20 amp breakers but that does not mean they go that high. Usually the 15 amps will throw at 13 and the 20 amp about 17-18 amps. This is so your wires do not get to hot and ignite.

Now I say this with caution...it is possible your breaker is failing but I suggest you sit down and calculate the amps you are drawing. Ohms law http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms_law_calculator.php

This is a prime example of the people against growing MJ argument and especially those against growing it in residential areas. It is dangerous to not know what your doing.
 

spex420

Well-Known Member
im pretty sure its just everything pops at once cuz some days it does it others everything is okay is there like a surge protector or somthing i can get that stores temporary energy im not running 1000w hps and 1000w mh i have a 6 bulb 4' t5 and 2 150w cfls and the two heaters my setup is pretty minimum compaired to others i have seen setups where people have multiply 1000w hps + 1000w mh + fluros for clones + inline fans + fans + heaters + all this other crap...
 

spex420

Well-Known Member
i was just checking it out 5000 thanks bro i posted that as a reply to the other guy i think i was still in the process of typing when you posted
 

MYWhat?

Active Member
No but your probably pulling 1000 watts + with each heater. Read the labels do the math, or burn your house down your choice !

Extension cords are cheap if that's the issue. Just don't use those orange 16 gauge elcheapo's.
 

5000joints

New Member
i was just checking it out 5000 thanks bro i posted that as a reply to the other guy i think i was still in the process of typing when you posted
Alright cool, sorry. Get those man. They work awesome. I couldnt grow without them.
 

spex420

Well-Known Member
@my what your prolly right bro they are 750w on low witht he two of them thats what 1500w? does no one else use heaters in their room?
 

5000joints

New Member
You have to run a heater at night in the winter time. Temps would drop to 50 degrees if I didnt. Just make sure its not the kind that emits light and the kind that doesnt use a fan. Those pop breakers. Get the oil heaters. There like radiators.
 

rollinbud

Active Member
The 2 heaters alone pretty much has circuit maxed out. Run an extension cord or anything and move one heater to a different circuit.
 

5000joints

New Member
You can run a total of 2 PXM-1 power expanders on each curcuit. So I can run 3- 600w hps lamps, 2 inline fans, a heater, humidifier, a sentinal environment controller, a co2 controller, a T.V and a fridgerator off of 1 curcuit. I love these things. I have 3 and a 1/2 rooms that are on 1 curcuit. 2 grow rooms and my living room and 1/2 my kitchen. I never have an issue.
 

Eviljay

Member
You can run a total of 2 PXM-1 power expanders on each curcuit. So I can run 3- 600w hps lamps, 2 inline fans, a heater, humidifier, a sentinal environment controller, a co2 controller, a T.V and a fridgerator off of 1 curcuit. I love these things. I have 3 and a 1/2 rooms that are on 1 curcuit. 2 grow rooms and my living room and 1/2 my kitchen. I never have an issue.
You're 100% misinformed bro. Those sentinals are extension cords with a remote relay trigger. While they do serve a purpose, they're not really the best or most practical solution for this guy. Get a heavy extension cord and move one heater to another circuit. That's all you're doing with the sentinal anyway. The heaters should have their own thermostats so they don't need the remote relay. You can fit any more devices on one circuit with your magic box. It's simple math.
 

rollinbud

Active Member
Excellent point, plus they're expensive too. Just reading the specs. on them tells you they wont work. 1200 watts max.... He's already over that!
 

spex420

Well-Known Member
i think i need to insulate my room a tad more get some real oil heaters and that should do the trick i put mylar in my bloom room the other day and since then it stays at about 75 without the heater running i hardly ever hear it click on before it barley ever got above 55 and the heater was running non stop
 

dart420

New Member
Home depot sells 1 inch thick 4x8 sheets of foam insulation. Works wonders in summer to keep the cool in and winter to keep the heat in your room. I use my garage and it gets hot as hell in summer and cold as Alaska in winter.
 

Xsample

Member
Home depot sells 1 inch thick 4x8 sheets of foam insulation. Works wonders in summer to keep the cool in and winter to keep the heat in your room. I use my garage and it gets hot as hell in summer and cold as Alaska in winter.
That, and a decent oil-filled heater. I have a noma heater that is oil-filled. I grow in an isoleted space in an unisolated garage, detached from my house, in a very cold climate. I insulated the place well. I can keep a minimum of 20 Celcius temperature at night when lights are off and -20 Celcius outside. It comes with 3 power settings and 5 temperature settings. 300/600/900 watts, 18/21/24/27/30 celcius. I keep mine at 300 watts, 27 celcius. During light on, heating is not a problem, but current draw is an issue because of my 1000 watts lamp, fans and so on. At 900 watts, the heater trips the breaker when light is on. At 600 watts, it does not. I keep it at 300 because it is all I need and I like to keep me some wiggle room.

Hope it helps,

Good luck!!!

I bought it for 40$ instead of 80$ at Canadian Tire... They have them at Walmart too... may be under the brand name Garrison, who bought Noma or was bought by them.

Anyhow, it was a very convenient and unexpensive heating solution for me... The only problem I foresee, and may be avoidable if you look carefully, is that it is completely electronic, with being off by default when powering. If unplugged and replugged, it has to me manually set to start, to the disired temperature and power setting. This means that if I left for 3 days, and power went out, even for just 1 minute, on the first day I am gone, they are not getting any heat at night until I come back.

This is my only worry, so if you would consider my suggestion, I suggest you try to find a unit that has mechanical settings instead of electronics.
 

rollinbud

Active Member
If you have a ups for a computer that might help with the loss of power for the heater if it was just off a short bit...
Yes mechanical setting are much better IMO. Everybody thinks digital is so great, but they forget when the power goes out that stuff just quits entirely unless it has a battery backup in it. For that reason I have mechanical timers... At least when the power comes back on they are working.
 

method2mymadness

Well-Known Member
Have u thought of putting a separate line from box to room. I run 1000 a 600 a inline fan t5 2 heater other inline fan dehimidifier fan and a 2 cfls on 2 15 amp breakers
 

BlitzedKreg

Member
Keep in mind that when an hid light starts up especially with a magnetic ballast it will likely draw more amperage than it states on the faceplate. That might explain why it pops when its lights on
 
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