Boston Baked Beanz

greenghost420

Well-Known Member
this last run of bho was mixed gg4, sour grape, n deathstar. after grinding it for the tude it stunk like skittle candy ! then while purging i ran to the store, came back n my front yard smelt like skittles lol hows that rosin smell?
 

Siino Gardens

Well-Known Member
I don't have the best nose as I had surgery on my face but it smells terpfully good. Medium high like I expected but its nice and mellow / relaxation high and thats what I need after a long ass week lolol.

for DVG I have

Palpatine
GBxGB12 I think (gotta check the packet)
E's Grand OG
Pink Champagne x Candyland
Grandpa Larry
and I think two more I gotta go check the tin.
 

Siino Gardens

Well-Known Member
watched a video from the rosin thread so before i bought it i asked a ton of questions, a dude found that people pressing with parchment paper and tea bags are getting residuals in the concentrate.
 

greenghost420

Well-Known Member
I don't have the best nose as I had surgery on my face but it smells terpfully good. Medium high like I expected but its nice and mellow / relaxation high and thats what I need after a long ass week lolol.

for DVG I have

Palpatine
GBxGB12 I think (gotta check the packet)
E's Grand OG
Pink Champagne x Candyland
Grandpa Larry
and I think two more I gotta go check the tin.
nice selection dude! youre slackin on ur crackin!
 

greenghost420

Well-Known Member
so i had those 2 plants yellowing and its so hard to reverse. hit em with fish hydro, and a kelp/alfalfa tea. the gg4 looks like it might be greening up but the ghost og is looking hungry!cant find my cam charger, when i do i got porn :D
 

greenghost420

Well-Known Member
want a higher cloning success rate ? todays your lucky day! :D heres an exert from "fundamentals of horticulture".....




Page 198

"Cuttings which require leaves are taken from herbaceous plants or from woody plants when the wood is immature. With these cuttings, rapid healing of the wounded surface and rapid production of roots are indispensable to the welfare of the cutting. If the cut surface heals slowly or not at all, most of the all-important water within the cutting escapes, and rot-producing organisms are likely to invade the tissues. How does the cutting heal the wounded surface? In general, immediately after the cut is made the intercellular spaces and the cells just beneath the cut become filled with sap. The sugars in the sap change to unsaturated fatty acids, and these, in turn, combine with oxygen of the air in the formation of the skinlike, varnish-like layer of material, or suberin. Suberin possesses the remarkable property of keeping the water within the cutting and resisting the attacks of rot-producing organisms. However, this layer is effective for a short time only since it is very shallow and nonelastic and cannot adjust itself to changes in water pressure within the cutting due to the intake and outgo of water. For these reasons a more permanent layer is formed. How does the cutting develop this layer? In general, in very young dicotyledonous herbaceous stems the permanent layer develops from the pericycle or cortex. These tissues have the ability to change into meristem and thus produce new cells. On the other hand, in relatively old dicotyledonous herbaceous stems and in immature woody stems, the permanent layer develops from the cambium. In both cases the walls of the new cells are impregnated with suberin, tannin and other materials and they are corky in nature. Since this layer is being renewed constantly, it is durable; since it is several cells thick, it is deep-seated; and since it is elastic, it withstands the stress and strain due to changes in water absorption and transpiration. How does the cutting develop the root system? In general, the pericycle in young stems and the cambium in the somewhat older stems develop growing points, and these growing points develop into individual roots.
Is there anything that can be done to facilitate the development of the temporary and permanent protective layers and the production of roots with rapidity? A discussion of important factors follow.

Temperature - Since with cuttings which require leaves the problem consists in producing roots from shoots, growth of the tops is retarded and growth of the roots is accelerated. The problem, therefore, is to keep the tops cool and the basal end of the cuttings relatively warm. In general, this is done by maintaining a relatively low air temperature and by applying artificial heat to the medium in which the cuttings are placed. The low air temperature, combined with high humidity of the air, maintains a low rate of transpiration. This low rate of transpiration keeps the guard cells turgid and the stomates open. As a result, carbon diozide diffuses in to the leaves and carbohydrate and hormone manufacture takes place. The relatively high temperature at the base of the cuttings promotes rapid oxidation of the fatty acids in the formation of suberin and speeds up the rate of cell division in the formation of the corky layer and the development of the root system.
The application of heat to the basal portion of cuttings is known as bottom heat. Bottom heat is applied in various ways: by lead covered electric resistance, wire, by steam in pipes, and by hot water in pipes. (Or Seedling Heating Mat) Many experiments have shown that high rooting-media temperatures, combined with relatively low air temperatures, facilitate rapid root production. For example, tests at the Ohio Experiment Station have shown that chrysanthemum cuttings kept in sand at 60 F produced a satisfactory root system in 10 days, whereas a comparable lot kept in sand ad 50 F required 20 days.

Relative Humidity and Light Intensity - These factors affect both transpiration and photosynthesis. The student will recall that relative humidity and light intensity have opposite effects on the rate of transpiration. In general, high relative humidity promotes low rates of transpiration and high light intensity promotes high rates. Since low rates of transpiration are needed and since light is needed for making of the carbohydrates and the hormones, the higher the relative humidity, the greater will be the amount of light the leaves can absorb without wilting. For this reason a high relative humidity is maintained.

Oxygen and Moisture Supply - The formation of suberin requires abundant oxygen, and the rapidly dividing meristem requires both abundant oxygen and water. Hence, in the rooting of cuttings, media are used which will enable the growing points to obtain abundant oxygen and, at the same time sufficient moisture for rapid root production. In general, washed, sharp, silica sand, mixtures of sand and peat moss, vermiculite, and mixtures of sand and perlite are satisfactory propagating media for herbaceous and softwood cuttings. These materials are porous, easily drained, and hold sufficient moisture for rapid root development.

Mist propagation of Herbaceous and Softwood Cuttings - Mist propagation consists of maintaining a film of water on the leaves of the cutting and a high relative humidity of the ambient air. In this way, the rate of transpiration is reduced to a minimum, and as a result the guard cells remain turgid, the stomates remain open, and the manufacture of carbohydrates and related substances proceeds unabated even in the presence of high light intensity. Further, with high light intensity, the evaporation of water from the leaves keeps the tops relatively cool, and this in turn lowers the rate of respiration. Thus, with the low rate or transpiration combined with the low rate of respiration, high rates of apparent photosynthesis take place and abundant carbohydrates and other manufactured substances become available for the initiation and growth of the root system. "
 

greenghost420

Well-Known Member
heres buildasoils clone recipe. im gonna try it out....

"
  1. Mix Cloning Solution in your bowl. Cut recipe in half for a small cloning session, or water your houseplants with the leftovers, they deserve a special treat every once in awhile. If you don’t have house plants, go get some. At least an Aloe Vera and maybe a Money Tree.
  2. 1 Gallon Clean Water
  3. .33 Gram (1/8 Teaspoon) of Aloe Vera 200x Powder (No need to be 100% Exact)
  4. 20 – 30 ml Ful Power Fulvic Acid
  5. 5 ml of Pre-Mixed 7.8% Agsil16h solution
  6. Once this mixture is prepared pour a few ounces of it into a short glass or plastic beer cup with labels for each type of cutting. This is where you will soak your cuttings. Also set some aside for your spray bottle to use as foliar once cuttings are ready to go.
  7. Take your cuttings using scissors or a sharp razor.
  8. Pull the lower leaves off and prepare your cuttings, once prepared place them into the cloning liquid inside the designated soaking cup.
  9. While these cuttings are soaking, go ahead and toss all of the Root Riot Plugs you will require into the bowl with the majority of the original gallon of Cloning solution. Let these soak.
  10. Let your clones soak for at least one hour.
  11. Once ready, place your Grodan smart tray into the propagation tray and insert your root riot plugs into the square openings. I typically make rows of 4 cuttings and leave space between the rows so that I can label the type of varietal in each row and keep track.
  12. Then place your cuttings gently into the whole provided within the Root Riot Pucks and be careful not to force them too hard or you will snap the stem.
  13. Once the cuttings are in the tray and ready for the dome you will want to then foliar spray with the same solution you used to soak the cuttings in.
  14. Place the Humidity dome on the tray and place the tray away from direct grow lights. I personally leave it way to the side of a grow tent only receiving ambient light from my T5. I have also used Home Depot Shop Lights with good success. The key is to have just enough light for the plant to produce roots but not enough for it to attempt to grow. If the plant tries to grow it will use the nutrients in its leaves turn yellow causing it to lose health stress out.
  15. Temperatures are key and I prefer 70-85 Degrees and once daily inspection by lifting the dome and making sure none of the pucks are getting dry. If they are getting dry or if the humidity is too low I will Foliar Spray with Aloe Solution or plain water. I also make sure to spray the pucks to keep the moist when I do this."
 

greenghost420

Well-Known Member
cracking some flaming cookies male x mendodawg#2. got 40 or so to look thru. also moving the stardawg f2s up into next after the fc x md. dankys been showing off some killer shit found in those. i want a nice chem4 leaner. charging the cam...

just watched a review that mentioned archives faceoff x amnesia. these just got priority. then ill get to the fc x md and stardawgf2s...
 
Last edited:

greenghost420

Well-Known Member
man this cold has been absolutely brutal. been waiting for my mothers to root and it was looking ugly til few days ago. urkle hasnt rooted but 3 of the 4 whites are. this means its time to flip and get the skeet hitting the walls :D i been sick this week so my babies are neglected. getting shots today after i water and foliar with some conserve to kill thrips. bout to cut a gg4 today to got lil bit of porn too ;) heres me latest....rare darkness at 60ish daze and such candy!....008.JPG 009.JPG 010.JPG 013.JPG 021.JPG 022.JPG 023.JPG 024.JPG
 
Top