-boring 'ol 230w 154lm/w led strip build

psychedelicdaddi

Well-Known Member
I bought 20 or these... 10 4000k and 10 3000k. Was going to flower in ~3x4 area.

was planning on putting two back to back/inline for a total length length of ~33", and then alternating these back to back strips 3k/4k/3k/etc.

This gives me 48"/10 total rows = ~4.8" center to center spacing. This is going to give me ~70k lumens over the canopy... Havent done the math but seems like ~1.5x the light with my current 400w 8 cob citizen setup, and the light will be more evenly distributed.

Any thoughts?
I'm running 10 in a 4x2 and its killing it. 20 in a 4x3 would be awesome. I think my light spacing is 3.25" center to center.
0111181407a.jpg
 

Hairiest_Stamen

Well-Known Member
Useless fact: measured tc last night with max current draw, light strip suspended in 70f air, using a thermocouple. Max temp 113f over a 15 minute interval. Not too bad....
Starting to wonder if I can get away with simple 1/8" thick bar stock with thermal tape rather than usaheatsinks.com 2" wide heatsinks. I see peeps using cookie sheets on some other sites, haha.
 

psychedelicdaddi

Well-Known Member
Useless fact: measured tc last night with max current draw, light strip suspended in 70f air, using a thermocouple. Max temp 113f over a 15 minute interval. Not too bad....
Starting to wonder if I can get away with simple 1/8" thick bar stock with thermal tape rather than usaheatsinks.com 2" wide heatsinks. I see peeps using cookie sheets on some other sites, haha.
i'd still use the most appropriate heatsink for the situation. those 2" ones are hardly expensive and will let those lights last forever. The 2" u-channel is only 25$ and with free shipping on ebay. just cut it into 5 pieces for 5 of those strips. They're like 17" in length. or get two for ten, etc.
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
Useless fact: measured tc last night with max current draw, light strip suspended in 70f air, using a thermocouple. Max temp 113f over a 15 minute interval. Not too bad....
Starting to wonder if I can get away with simple 1/8" thick bar stock with thermal tape rather than usaheatsinks.com 2" wide heatsinks. I see peeps using cookie sheets on some other sites, haha.
If you run them at nominal current, you can dispense with heatsinks entirely.

Instead of bar stock get architectural channel. Much more surface area - that what dissipates the heat.
 

Hairiest_Stamen

Well-Known Member
I hear you guys... Just experimenting. no matter what, they need to be affixed to something and not just flapping in the wind.

Just testing with 1/2" bar stock I have on hand at the moment. So far hitting 91F, but i brought the piece in from an unheated barn which was 30F.

I have a bunch of bar stock and sheet material on hand. Thought about firing up the CNC and machining my own sinks, but the heatsink material is so cheap not even worth it.

With the included driver.. at the 3 diff amp settings, no heatsink, ambient ~70F:

1) 113F
2) 108F
3) 102F


19" of http://www.heatsinkusa.com/2-079-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink/ is $6 each. Most likely worth the $150 total with shipping. Want an extra 1" on either side to fasten to 8020 aluminum extrusion. It's actually roughly the same price as the U channel.

I think I'm going to make 6 banks of 5 strips each for a 3'x6' area. If my #'s are correct I should be seeing ~900+ ppfd
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
I hear you guys... Just experimenting. no matter what, they need to be affixed to something and not just flapping in the wind.

Just testing with 1/2" bar stock I have on hand at the moment. So far hitting 91F, but i brought the piece in from an unheated barn which was 30F.

I have a bunch of bar stock and sheet material on hand. Thought about firing up the CNC and machining my own sinks, but the heatsink material is so cheap not even worth it.

With the included driver.. at the 3 diff amp settings, no heatsink, ambient ~70F:

1) 113F
2) 108F
3) 102F


19" of http://www.heatsinkusa.com/2-079-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink/ is $6 each. Most likely worth the $150 total with shipping. Want an extra 1" on either side to fasten to 8020 aluminum extrusion. It's actually roughly the same price as the U channel.

I think I'm going to make 6 banks of 5 strips each for a 3'x6' area. If my #'s are correct I should be seeing ~900+ ppfd
I get 8 feet lengths of 3/4" architectural channel for $10 at my local hardware store. No shipping.
 

HamNEggs

Well-Known Member
I have ordered metal from heatsinkusa.com and a few others before but that shipping kills me. You could try and see if there is a local metal distributor in your area that allows will call. Something like AlcobraMetals.com. I have to agree on the channel. Its versatile as well.
 

Hairiest_Stamen

Well-Known Member
I have ordered metal from heatsinkusa.com and a few others before but that shipping kills me. You could try and see if there is a local metal distributor in your area that allows will call. Something like AlcobraMetals.com. I have to agree on the channel. Its versatile as well.
Ended up ordering thirty lengths of 18"x2.079" from heatsinksusa...
Cost was $172 + 30 shipping.

The 1/2"x2"x72" channel is $20 each.
8 lengths @ $20... $160 total.

Seemed worth it toss in the extra $40 for the prospect of more effective cooling.
 

SonsOfAvery

Well-Known Member
Apologies, I'll have to wait until the weekend to take the pics (my phone is broken).
The aluminium angle bar is basically just L shaped and measures approx 49mmx49mm cut into lengths of 950mm. The aluminium is approx 3mm in thickness. (Which I find to be sufficient for cooling, warm to the touch but not hot.)

With 950mm lengths I built a square frame which allows me to have 2 TCI strips on each length (8 in total) I then have another 2 lengths of the same aluminium angle bar which sit freely in the square frame. Each with another 2 TCI strips.
12 in total (276w). I'm also running a Meizhi in the middle of all of this with a total of about 500w. I don't have a meter to check accurately my power consumption.

Having the two central channels of my DIY frame not fixed in place allows me to move them according to how the individual plants are growing. I like this as it gives me a little more flexibility in my grow.
 

Hairiest_Stamen

Well-Known Member
Apologies, I'll have to wait until the weekend to take the pics (my phone is broken).
The aluminium angle bar is basically just L shaped and measures approx 49mmx49mm cut into lengths of 950mm. The aluminium is approx 3mm in thickness. (Which I find to be sufficient for cooling, warm to the touch but not hot.)

With 950mm lengths I built a square frame which allows me to have 2 TCI strips on each length (8 in total) I then have another 2 lengths of the same aluminium angle bar which sit freely in the square frame. Each with another 2 TCI strips.
12 in total (276w). I'm also running a Meizhi in the middle of all of this with a total of about 500w. I don't have a meter to check accurately my power consumption.

Having the two central channels of my DIY frame not fixed in place allows me to move them according to how the individual plants are growing. I like this as it gives me a little more flexibility in my grow.
sounds solid,
is this for flower or veg?
 

Hairiest_Stamen

Well-Known Member
This will be my veg and flower light.
I'm using the Meizhi while they are still small and once they get large enough I'll switch on my DIY frame as well.
Let them veg for a couple more weeks then. Flip to flower.
This will be my veg and flower light.
I'm using the Meizhi while they are still small and once they get large enough I'll switch on my DIY frame as well.
Let them veg for a couple more weeks then. Flip to flower.
looks nice and tidy... UPS coming today hopefully. Ill post pics if anyone is interested.
 
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