Blue Dream Monsters in the Making???

mr.bernit

mr.bernit

Well-Known Member
I currently got some Blue Dream clones in 7 gallon pots that I have been vegging since early Feb. My problem is that I'm not sure what size pot am I going to use throughout the entire season. I'm planning to transplant them in May.

I also want to begin flowering two of them within a week. Will that 7 gallon pot be enough? Or should I get a bigger size? If so, what size is recommended?

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. plant.jpg
 
Bigapple420

Bigapple420

Well-Known Member
Depends on where your located. Also clone plants that old are a bit of a fuss from time to time. A clone off that thing this time of year can still reach maximum potential and are a lot veggier/ rage hard. A lot of clone growers in my neck of the woods don't even cut clones til 4-20 for a late may plant.
 
mr.bernit

mr.bernit

Well-Known Member
Bigapple420 said:
Depends on where your located. Also clone plants that old are a bit of a fuss from time to time. A clone off that thing this time of year can still reach maximum potential and are a lot veggier/ rage hard. A lot of clone growers in my neck of the woods don't even cut clones til 4-20 for a late may plant.
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Im in northern california. Yea i was told clones have limited growth. Hopefully it goes well with these. Any suggestions on what size pot should for the season??
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
mr.bernit said:
Great, no need to transplant them then. Thanks
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I've grown the blue dream for over a decade now, (in CA too, inside and out) and I really would urge you to transplant that girl and give her at LEAST 15 gallons outside.
You will be rootbound (maybe already)
Blue dream usually triples when flowered. At the minimum a 250%.
I usually will do my bluedreams in a half wine barrel (probably at least 30-40 gal), and they are rootbound even in that.
They will get as big as YOU let them.
Bigger container will get you a LOT of nugs from that strain, and damn good strain, she is.
Inside it's different but outside under the CA sun?
Give that lady some room to stretch her legs and she'll reward you.
 
mr.bernit

mr.bernit

Well-Known Member
greasemonkeymann said:
I've grown the blue dream for over a decade now, (in CA too, inside and out) and I really would urge you to transplant that girl and give her at LEAST 15 gallons outside.
You will be rootbound (maybe already)
Blue dream usually triples when flowered. At the minimum a 250%.
I usually will do my bluedreams in a half wine barrel (probably at least 30-40 gal), and they are rootbound even in that.
They will get as big as YOU let them.
Bigger container will get you a LOT of nugs from that strain, and damn good strain, she is.
Inside it's different but outside under the CA sun?
Give that lady some room to stretch her legs and she'll reward you.
Click to expand...
Thats great to hear ! Ill transplant them in 20-25 gallon then for two of them that i want to flower in the next week. Any reccomendations on what kind of medium should i use? I want to start adding blooming nutrients asap, unless theres a good soil for flowering??
Im using Fox farms trio plus open sesame etc on of them and GH thrree part for the other.


Ill use around 80 gallons for the other two that i plan to grow for the entire season. Im planning to use subcools supersoil on one of them and Fox farms trio on the other.

Any tips??
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
mr.bernit said:
Thats great to hear ! Ill transplant them in 20-25 gallon then for two of them that i want to flower in the next week. Any reccomendations on what kind of medium should i use? I want to start adding blooming nutrients asap, unless theres a good soil for flowering??
Im using Fox farms trio plus open sesame etc on of them and GH thrree part for the other.


Ill use around 80 gallons for the other two that i plan to grow for the entire season. Im planning to use subcools supersoil on one of them and Fox farms trio on the other.

Any tips??
Click to expand...
hmm, well i'm an organic guy.. so I can't advise you there, I wouldn't do the supersoil though, that's a piss-poor organic setup, you can get MUCH better results using a different recipe.
I do know that the bluedream is a reaaaaally easy plant to grow. Very difficult to do poorly with that plant, and yours looks really good by the way.
I had awesome results with simple bagged vermifire. Better results with my own "pimp" version of organics, but you will do just fine grown conventionally.
 
mr.bernit

mr.bernit

Well-Known Member
:bigjoint:
greasemonkeymann said:
hmm, well i'm an organic guy.. so I can't advise you there, I wouldn't do the supersoil though, that's a piss-poor organic setup, you can get MUCH better results using a different recipe.
I do know that the bluedream is a reaaaaally easy plant to grow. Very difficult to do poorly with that plant, and yours looks really good by the way.
I had awesome results with simple bagged vermifire. Better results with my own "pimp" version of organics, but you will do just fine grown conventionally.
Click to expand...
Shouldve done more research on that soil before I bought all the ingredients:(. Is there a price for your "pimp" organic recipe?? After 10 years of growing Blue Dream I bet its perfected.
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
mr.bernit said:
:bigjoint:

Shouldve done more research on that soil before I bought all the ingredients:(. Is there a price for your "pimp" organic recipe?? After 10 years of growing Blue Dream I bet its perfected.
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hard to say a price, more just tweaking over the years to perfect it.
It's based of cootz recipe.
33/33/33 equal ratios of compost/vermicompost, aeration and peat.
plus a tailored mix of organic nutrients
add some biochar, rotten wood chunks and you are golden.i
If you want I can give you the recipe
 
mr.bernit

mr.bernit

Well-Known Member
greasemonkeymann said:
hard to say a price, more just tweaking over the years to perfect it.
It's based of cootz recipe.
33/33/33 equal ratios of compost/vermicompost, aeration and peat.
plus a tailored mix of organic nutrients
add some biochar, rotten wood chunks and you are golden.i
If you want I can give you the recipe
Click to expand...
That'll be great thanks!
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
mr.bernit said:
That'll be great thanks!
Click to expand...
here you go.
it's not too hard.----
first if you are making from scratch stick to the 33/33/33 mix.
33% compost/vermicompost (homemade if possible) I like a 50/50 mix of both leaf compost and EWC
33% aeration
33% peat
the per cubic foot (about 7.5 gallons)
add one cup of the following
neem meal, kelp meal, crab meal.
then per cubic foot add HALF cup
insect meal (mashed up dried insect chicken feed)
alfalfa meal
fish bone meal
that's all for the nutes
then the minerals
3-4 cups per cubic foot, I like a mix of different minerals, if you are re-using your soil maybe avoid azomite.
must have one cup of oyster flour per cubic foot to control peats acidity, in addition to the oyster flour, you want 2-4 TOTAL cups of minerals, rock phosphates, gypsum, basalt, granite, (although it can be radioactive.....) greensand or langbeinite if you are re-using your soil, but don't expect much from them at first
that's all the normal shit.
it's in my amendments where the difference is (maybe the insect meal too), biochar, pumice, volcanic rock, and rotten tree log chunks are what I use.
of the 33% aeration I go 50% of that as standard conventional aeration, volcanic rock or pumice, then 25% biochar and 25% rotten wood chunks.... in fact i'm pretty sure I have more than 33% aeration in my mix if you account for all the rotten wood chunk, but damn, I tell ya my plants LOVE this mix, and it retains the PERFECT amount of water.
if you have any doubt add more aeration, never hurts, especially if it's biochar or rotten wood.
on top of all that add a cup of oyster shells (again chicken feed area) per cubic foot
---- if you are growing outside, try very hard to find some rotten tree logs, they condition the soil perfectly and the soil will absorb more water when you water them, which is always a good thing here in California...
 
Bigapple420

Bigapple420

Well-Known Member
northern cal with a plant that big right now I would do no smaller than a 400 gal smart pot. I start seeds march 15 for the full sun garden and I root bound 300 gal smarts by the middle of july ( to the point they need food all the time or they will lose color) Take my advise bigger the better and homeys last little mix is good… I disagree with the vermi soil thing I personally prefer roots organic but to each their own. Either way what is saying seems to be accurate. Get bigger pots norcal sun is as legit as it gets.
 
mr.bernit

mr.bernit

Well-Known Member
greasemonkeymann said:
here you go.
it's not too hard.----
first if you are making from scratch stick to the 33/33/33 mix.
33% compost/vermicompost (homemade if possible) I like a 50/50 mix of both leaf compost and EWC
33% aeration
33% peat
the per cubic foot (about 7.5 gallons)
add one cup of the following
neem meal, kelp meal, crab meal.
then per cubic foot add HALF cup
insect meal (mashed up dried insect chicken feed)
alfalfa meal
fish bone meal
that's all for the nutes
then the minerals
3-4 cups per cubic foot, I like a mix of different minerals, if you are re-using your soil maybe avoid azomite.
must have one cup of oyster flour per cubic foot to control peats acidity, in addition to the oyster flour, you want 2-4 TOTAL cups of minerals, rock phosphates, gypsum, basalt, granite, (although it can be radioactive.....) greensand or langbeinite if you are re-using your soil, but don't expect much from them at first
that's all the normal shit.
it's in my amendments where the difference is (maybe the insect meal too), biochar, pumice, volcanic rock, and rotten tree log chunks are what I use.
of the 33% aeration I go 50% of that as standard conventional aeration, volcanic rock or pumice, then 25% biochar and 25% rotten wood chunks.... in fact i'm pretty sure I have more than 33% aeration in my mix if you account for all the rotten wood chunk, but damn, I tell ya my plants LOVE this mix, and it retains the PERFECT amount of water.
if you have any doubt add more aeration, never hurts, especially if it's biochar or rotten wood.
on top of all that add a cup of oyster shells (again chicken feed area) per cubic foot
---- if you are growing outside, try very hard to find some rotten tree logs, they condition the soil perfectly and the soil will absorb more water when you water them, which is always a good thing here in California...
Click to expand...
Thanks man! Does this recipe need to be cooked first or can it be used right away ?
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
mr.bernit said:
Thanks man! Does this recipe need to be cooked first or can it be used right away ?
Click to expand...
no, it must be cooked, for sure.
What I did was after mixing it, I filled all the smartpots I was going to plant my plants in , and aged them in their pots, planted a cover crop of legumes and that took the "guesswork" out of when the soil was "ready", you can literally see the legumes shoot off when the soils nutrients become available, and the cool thing is you also establish a soilweb that way too, then you can either cut the legumes or let them grow alongside your cannabis.
Like this
it's a pic of the smartpot after I harvested, that legume is now in it's "second" harvest alongside a new plant.
 

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mr.bernit

mr.bernit

Well-Known Member
greasemonkeymann said:
no, it must be cooked, for sure.
What I did was after mixing it, I filled all the smartpots I was going to plant my plants in , and aged them in their pots, planted a cover crop of legumes and that took the "guesswork" out of when the soil was "ready", you can literally see the legumes shoot off when the soils nutrients become available, and the cool thing is you also establish a soilweb that way too, then you can either cut the legumes or let them grow alongside your cannabis.
Like this
it's a pic of the smartpot after I harvested, that legume is now in it's "second" harvest alongside a new plant.
Click to expand...
Great Im definitely going to try this recipe out. Did you plant the legume from seed??
 
greasemonkeymann

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
mr.bernit said:
Great Im definitely going to try this recipe out. Did you plant the legume from seed??
Click to expand...
yeah, I made a SST out of the water too, minus the pureed seeds, but I have a really awesome garden store near me, that place rules, sells everything from karanja meal (albeit ginormous bags) to silica, to comfrey, to horsetail plants.
But yea, they sell this seed mix that is called "soil-starter" all nitrogen fixing legumes of I think four different types.
Best plant store I have ever seen though. Owned by some organic hippy people...
 
mr.bernit

mr.bernit

Well-Known Member
Bigapple420 said:
northern cal with a plant that big right now I would do no smaller than a 400 gal smart pot. I start seeds march 15 for the full sun garden and I root bound 300 gal smarts by the middle of july ( to the point they need food all the time or they will lose color) Take my advise bigger the better and homeys last little mix is good… I disagree with the vermi soil thing I personally prefer roots organic but to each their own. Either way what is saying seems to be accurate. Get bigger pots norcal sun is as legit as it gets.
Click to expand...
Can the Roots Organic be used for flowering? I want to transplant two of them in fresh soil like a week before flowering, but I don't know which one to use. I need one that I can use ASAP because I'm planning to flower them in like a week or two, tops. I want a medium, soil or not, so I can start adding the blooming nutrients. I'm currently using FoxFarm Trio on one and GH on the other. They are in Ocean Forest. I read online of someone transplanting them into fresh FFOF and began using blooming nutrients almost immediately starting with 1/4 strength. The reason was because the soil is mostly for vegging. Is this true?? Im really breaking my head here on trying to figure out what to do with these two plants.
 
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