Astir Grow Led Panel Project...

HiloReign

HiloReign

Well-Known Member
guod said:
spectra here i come...

http://www.labsphere.com/products/light-measurement-systems/illumia-light-measurement-products/illumia-lite/default.aspx

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Regulation of the growth and photosynthesis of cherry tomato seedlings
by different light irradiations of light emitting diodes (LED)

http://www.academicjournals.org/ajb/PDF/pdf2012/15Mar/Xiaoying et al.pdf
Click to expand...
Great posts Guod, keep 'em comin'...

I love how the plants are coming along SDS and Ganja2, my parts can't come in the mail fast enough!
 
weedman420gr

weedman420gr

Active Member
A bit late...still in the game though ;-)

Enjoy...

I germinated one Nirvana blue mystic but i dont think it ll sprout soon enough...(as soon as it cracked open(no root) i burried it in the little pot)..if this germination fails, im gonna try Nirvana Auto Northern Lights...

In each case, wish me luck... ;-)

*SDS , just noticed that my heatsinks are a bit hot( definatelly not as cold as they were)...Are yours hot ? Is this a problem ? Which is the max temp a heatsink can reach ? In what temp leds are going to explode...?
 

Attachments

guod

guod

Well-Known Member
συγχαρητήρια...

for the last pic let me say one panel will be enough for the first week for one plant.

grow buddy grow
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
As Guod said,one is enough for the first week...
As I told many times,these panels are not designed ,for such a small & confined space ,to work relying only on passive cooling.
Just install a small pc-fan..Don't work it fully on 12 volts...Have the fan at 6 or 7.5 volts....(for less noise )
You need some air movement over the heatsinks...
The cooler they work,the better...
Nice job,there...
Congrats from me also....
Happy grows...
(....You 'd better install a small fan,now ! )
 
weedman420gr

weedman420gr

Active Member
stardustsailor said:
As Guod said,one is enough for the first week...
As I told many times,these panels are not designed ,for such a small & confined space ,to work relying only on passive cooling.
Just install a small pc-fan..Don't work it fully on 12 volts...Have the fan at 6 or 7.5 volts....(for less noise )
You need some air movement over the heatsinks...
The cooler they work,the better...
Nice job,there...
Congrats from me also....
Happy grows...
(....You 'd better install a small fan,now ! )
Click to expand...

Thanks! Ok, i will :) And i will also have one panel for the first week :)
 
jubiare

jubiare

Active Member
weedman, you want to do some heatsink calculations if you want to really know for yourself. You should have around 19 (min) 21 (ideal) inches of dissipating area for every watt burned. You want to count all the heatsink surface, all sides and all the fins. That's for passive cooling!

Or you'll have to add a fan. The problem with the fan is, if it stops working and you massively rely on it, you have damaged your diodes permanently. If I was you I'd rely on the dissipating area passive cooling) as much as I could adjust things around it.I'd say anyway, go for more than one fan? (if one stops, the other hopefully is still running?)

The problem with the diodes running too hot is not only around their longevity, the nm spectral numbers will go all over the place!
 
weedman420gr

weedman420gr

Active Member
jubiare said:
weedman, you want to do some heatsink calculations if you want to really know for yourself. You should have around 19 (min) 21 (ideal) inches of dissipating area for every watt burned. You want to count all the heatsink surface, all sides and all the fins. That's for passive cooling!

Or you'll have to add a fan. The problem with the fan is, if it stops working and you massively rely on it, you have damaged your diodes permanently. If I was you I'd rely on the dissipating area passive cooling) as much as I could adjust things around it.I'd say anyway, go for more than one fan? (if one stops, the other hopefully is still running?)

The problem with the diodes running too hot is not only around their longevity, the nm spectral numbers will go all over the place!
Click to expand...
I already added 1 12cm fan (working at 6V) on each heatsink blowing the air away...i dont worry that much about broken fans cause im all the time around and checking...Furthermore, i dont massively rely on those 2 fans as i have a third fan for recycling( + exhaust) the air inside the box...i think i ll be ok ...

The only problem is the carbon filter wich in this case im going to remove ,making the air flow even more easy...for the first 2-3 weeks...

Then, i will propably need a carbon filter...i must think something...
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
jubiare said:
weedman, you want to do some heatsink calculations if you want to really know for yourself. You should have around 19 (min) 21 (ideal) inches of dissipating area for every watt burned. You want to count all the heatsink surface, all sides and all the fins. That's for passive cooling!

Or you'll have to add a fan. The problem with the fan is, if it stops working and you massively rely on it, you have damaged your diodes permanently. If I was you I'd rely on the dissipating area passive cooling) as much as I could adjust things around it.I'd say anyway, go for more than one fan? (if one stops, the other hopefully is still running?)

The problem with the diodes running too hot is not only around their longevity, the nm spectral numbers will go all over the place!
Click to expand...
You thought that it was left to luck ?

It is already calculated,my brother....

Weed...
The heatsink has a surface of 2900 cm[SUP]2 [/SUP].
For every Watt of heat , good & satisfactory passive cooling of leds needs approx 130-140 cm[SUP]2[/SUP] of AA 1050A aluminium alloy surface ....
This heatsink can handle up to 20 Watts of heat... Passive goin'...
28 pieces of onewatters(whites) with aver. efficiency of 0.3 .

Thing is that needs plenty of ..."space "....(Air volume / mass )
So that's why in a confined space you need the air to be circulated and re-newed...
Fan blowin... (better is fan suckin' ..But ..Anyway....At this case ,let it blow...)
 
weedman420gr

weedman420gr

Active Member
stardustsailor said:
You thought that it was left in luck ?

It is already calculated,my brother....

Weed...
The heatsink has a surface of 2900 cm[SUP]2 [/SUP].
For every Watt of heat , good & satisfactory passive cooling of leds needs approx 130-140 cm[SUP]2[/SUP] of AA 1050A aluminium alloy surface ....
This heatsink can handle up to 20 Watts of heat... Passive goin'...
28 pieces of onewatters(whites) with aver. efficiency of 0.3 .

Thing is that needs plenty of ..."space "....(Air volume / mass )
So that's why in a confined space you need the air to be circulated and re-newed...
Fan blowin... (better is fan suckin' ..But ..Anyway....At this case ,let it blow...)
Click to expand...
My fans are sucking,not blowin' :)

So if i reduce the number of the LEDs it could be work passive ? ( let me say, 20 pieces per panel)

i must confess im a bit dissapointed though...i had in my mind a totally different way of how heatsinks work...just in my mind though...
 
weedman420gr

weedman420gr

Active Member
stardustsailor said:
You,re ok with all the 24 leds on...
Just have a small fan ...
No need to blow air like crazy...
Just move air a bit....
Click to expand...
im ok with moving air...they only problem i have is that i cant combine everything together...(low noise,low odour,super lights,propper temps and RH,small stealth space)..its just against the law of physics...

So every time i have to sacrifice something (for the benefit of the others)...let it be the carbon filter this time...i cant think solutions no more...

peace :peace:
 
weedman420gr

weedman420gr

Active Member
locoezon said:
Maybe try to be make a DIY Carbon filter?
Click to expand...
Trust me i've made more than enough DIY carbon filters...no one of my 12inch -6V fans has the power to suck or blow throught them , causing rise of temps in the box


Carbon filter is not the way...ONA gell is the way :)
 
A

akaki

Well-Known Member
Very nice jod astir team keep forward...i'm coming too... i was very busy this period and i gave them up i have to start reading again...
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
PSUAGRO. said:
Real nice SDS...............you may want to consider adding small amounts of Epsom salts in your feedings..........OR is it the lights????
Click to expand...
You have a point there....
Somethin' is not that right ..
(Either Mg is missin',so not much of great Ch production....
Or the panels , are really pushing the PS limits of the canopy..(photoinhibition /photorespiration....)..
I'm suspecting certain two of them-which BTW have x10 reds 620-640 nm,each...
Or somethin' is going wrong with substrate's EC /pH .....
False color_NDVI_Float.jpg
Top part of canopy ,seems a bit lazy....
And some leaf tips are already dead....( NDVI ratio : -1 ,black color at image )
It might be,also , the first signs of overfertilising.....
NDVI healthy ratio : 0.3 -0.9 ( cyan to blue color at image )
Click to expand...
 
tenthirty

tenthirty

Well-Known Member
Or the panels , are really pushing the PS limits of the canopy..(photoinhibition /photorespiration....)..
Click to expand...
I'll vote for photoinhibition.

Or somethin' is going wrong with substrate's EC /pH .....
Click to expand...
Well whip out Mr. PH and EC meter and do your thing my brother.
Please let us know...........

But.......

It looks like the exact same thing, that I am seeing in certain locations in my grow.

Basically, over my tables, the light sweeps from HML pro-grow HPS.
Where I am seeing this is under the pro-grow.
(There is also some interesting photomorphology when plants are moved under the HPS for the last 30 day)
But for now, I would like to focus on the interveinal chlorosis at flower set. This current run also has the slightly burnt tips just like yours.

Well I would like to enlist your help my friend for an experiment.

I can't do this my self, because I've already half proven it (maybe) in my grow.
Considering........

The HML plants are pretty as punch. The pro-grow plants.......same as yours. Hmmmmm.

The difference..... HML=nw and ww and a little 660. (homogeneous more or less)

Would you make a panel or two all whites, your choice of mix though all nw would be better for this use case.

I would like to see if that fixes the problem in your grow with the other variables more or less the same over the first 30 days of 12/12?
This would be of great help and either help prove or disprove some of the theories on white light, wave form, and maybe even light pattern management.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Pics

LED (~ 80w). UFO is on the side, thanks to light mounting brackets bad design. Brackets broke, ufo crashed into plant. Fortunately, it fell on an angle and only affected the lower branches. I tied them up, and they have healed.

PPMS were ~ 600, reducing today to ~ 500. Now on day 36 from first bud clusters. Roughly 3 weeks to go


View attachment 2425210


HOT5 216 T5s + ~ 46 cfl, but only on the HPA side (left). Plant on right is my DIY 21st Century F & D. Although it is farthest away from cfls, the lower buds have fattened up nicely. Perhaps the low lighting is supplying more energy allowing nutes to flo better to the upper parts

Enlarge the left pic and notice the primary leafs on plant to the right are droopy. This is due to repositioning the mist heads to better feed the clone roots. You can see one in the right corner, once enlarged


​


View attachment 2425211IMG_1170.jpgIMG_1169.jpgIMG_1168.jpg
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
tenthirty said:
I'll vote for photoinhibition.


Well whip out Mr. PH and EC meter and do your thing my brother.
Please let us know...........

But.......

It looks like the exact same thing, that I am seeing in certain locations in my grow.

Basically, over my tables, the light sweeps from HML pro-grow HPS.
Where I am seeing this is under the pro-grow.
(There is also some interesting photomorphology when plants are moved under the HPS for the last 30 day)
But for now, I would like to focus on the interveinal chlorosis at flower set. This current run also has the slightly burnt tips just like yours.

Well I would like to enlist your help my friend for an experiment.

I can't do this my self, because I've already half proven it (maybe) in my grow.
Considering........

The HML plants are pretty as punch. The pro-grow plants.......same as yours. Hmmmmm.

The difference..... HML=nw and ww and a little 660. (homogeneous more or less)

Would you make a panel or two all whites, your choice of mix though all nw would be better for this use case.

I would like to see if that fixes the problem in your grow with the other variables more or less the same over the first 30 days of 12/12?
This would be of great help and either help prove or disprove some of the theories on white light, wave form, and maybe even light pattern management.
Click to expand...
I already have a panel (at center of whole canopy) with plenty of NW on it...
Anyway...I'll keep that in mind....All whites ,huh ?


Pic taken ,just before lights go out....
just before lights switch off.jpg

Well ,after 12 hours ,under intense led light ...(Remember : Not powerfull leds ,not single overhead panel,no lenses .... )

PB305587_NDVI_Float.jpg

Plants,need to rest their PS systems...

While outdoors (at same time -during sunset ) ,under the weak & brief winter sunlight ......
30_11 outdoors sunset _NDVI.jpg30_11 outdoors sunset _NRG.jpg

PS systems ,still not " saturated " .....



earthobservatory.nasa.gov/Features/MeasuringVegetation/measuring_vegetation_2.php
 
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