Anyone ever bought this before?
- Thread starter trich0me$
- Start date
LurchLurkin
Active Member
What's your current temp and humidity? Look them up on a psychrometric chart and compare to the rated water removal per day to see what it'll bring you to.
trich0me$
Well-Known Member
65-70F avg
60-80% humidity avg
It'll be in a 4ft length 2ft width and 7feet tall metal cabinet I have air from a Ac unit coming in but no air is going out currently.
In just trying to stay at a consistent humidity range around 50-60
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LurchLurkin
Active Member
To be real accurate look at the power usage. Watts*3.412=additional btu.
Add that many btu/lb dry air from the chart to account for increased temp from dehumidifier
Add that many btu/lb dry air from the chart to account for increased temp from dehumidifier
Gary Goodson
Well-Known Member
Is your room/tent/grow area sealed? Just keep air flowing and you'll be fine. You've got to have an intake and exhaust. Unless your environment is just extremely humid all the time, exchanging the air will do the trick.
LurchLurkin
Active Member
That's positive pressure, you're making the ac fan motor work harder.. Not good. Listen to Gary, if it's small just get like 6 air changes per hour.
The dehumidifier will make it hotter and reduce humidity fwiw, but depends on efficiency and how many pints per day
trich0me$
Well-Known Member
Honestly I don't follow what the chart is explaining I can read it but I don't know how to use it right!
Perhaps a little conversion help
trich0me$
Well-Known Member
It's not how you think lol Its not a whole lot of air coming in but a lot better than it was before the humidity was at 99% constantly until I added a diy air intake. I'll add pictures hang On
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Gary Goodson
Well-Known Member
I see ducting, but I don't see an inline fan. If you get an inline fan, use it for an active exhaust and then you don't have to have another fan for intake. You can just use a passive intake and it will create negative pressure in the room. Which is what you want.
trich0me$
Well-Known Member
I'm using the ducting from a Ac window Unit as a intake into the grow box!
I thought that would lower the humidity and temps which it did a good bit but now the humidity needs to go a bit lower for flower time,
I already ordered the mini dehumidifier, I originally planned to get a inline fan for intake and out. I didn't think it would lower the humidity enough..
I'm not trying to put any more money into this, at least for a while.
I'm just banking on the dehumidifier for now.
Gary Goodson
Well-Known Member
I hope it works out
Good luck and happy growing
Good luck and happy growing
trich0me$
Well-Known Member
Me too buddy I appreciate the guidance.I hope it works out
Good luck and happy growing
I learned something new today.
And I've learned much throughout this grow its been fun!
Gary Goodson
Well-Known Member
Keep us updated and if you have any other questions you can pm and I'll try to help out as much as possible.
trich0me$
Well-Known Member
Will do Gary!
I think I'm going to do a semi-detailed review on the dehumidifier for a grow area my size.
If someone already had done one already it would've helped!
LurchLurkin
Active Member
OK, so All plants use co2 and if you don't provide fresh air then they can't grow.
Without intake and exhaust you will run out of co2 quickly.
Nonetheless, to read the chart..
Temperature is on the bottom, go from there up to the humidity line and to the right for lb h2o/lb dry air for that temp/humidity.
Let's say it's 0.2 lb h2o per lb dry air..
So for 1.2 lb of air you have 0.2lb h2o/1.2lb air
If your tent was 4x4x4 ft that's 64 cubic ft.
Pv=nrt so n=pv/rt
1atm * 64cuft * (? Liters/cuft) /0.08206 * temp in kelvin
That's the number of moles of air. Multiply by the absolute humidity times weight of water summed with molar fraction bone dry air by 29g/mol to get the weight of air and then multiply by % bda and by lb h2o/lb bda and then convert the mass of water into a volume. Subtract volume of water removed from Humidifier and calculate new absolute humidity then follow that from the right side of the chart to your temp to see what humidity you're at.
Without intake and exhaust you will run out of co2 quickly.
Nonetheless, to read the chart..
Temperature is on the bottom, go from there up to the humidity line and to the right for lb h2o/lb dry air for that temp/humidity.
Let's say it's 0.2 lb h2o per lb dry air..
So for 1.2 lb of air you have 0.2lb h2o/1.2lb air
If your tent was 4x4x4 ft that's 64 cubic ft.
Pv=nrt so n=pv/rt
1atm * 64cuft * (? Liters/cuft) /0.08206 * temp in kelvin
That's the number of moles of air. Multiply by the absolute humidity times weight of water summed with molar fraction bone dry air by 29g/mol to get the weight of air and then multiply by % bda and by lb h2o/lb bda and then convert the mass of water into a volume. Subtract volume of water removed from Humidifier and calculate new absolute humidity then follow that from the right side of the chart to your temp to see what humidity you're at.
kermit2692
Well-Known Member
Lol run out of co2...
davillains
Well-Known Member
there's two types of cheap dehumidifiers, the cheapest use silica gel and a heater to reset the gel (probably the one you have), and the little more expensive ones use a peltier element and a fan.
The second option will lower your humidity by 10% or so when its above 60% in a 3x3 tent.
The second option will lower your humidity by 10% or so when its above 60% in a 3x3 tent.
bryan oconner
Well-Known Member
for respect for the mods I retract my post
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Gary Goodson
Well-Known Member
lol isn't this post bashing another user
Btw I've never liked you and have no respect for your growing skills because you don't have any. That's how I "feel" about your none spelling ass.
Ead