Anyone doing over 3lb / 4x4 using LED's?

Big Green Thumb

Well-Known Member
Fuck those little assholes. How are you fighting them?
I've used Green Cleaner, SM-90, and Spinosad repeatedly. I think I kill them all and about 7-10 days later, they show up again. I have 3 plants deep into flower right now so I have to be careful what I use so I don't mess up the buds. My veg'ing plants are doing okay as of now - they have been treated several times too, but I plan to hit them with neem a couple times before putting them into flower.

My 2x3 scrog area usually produces around 6-8 ounces and the mites did a number on those 2 plants too. The plants were cut early and drying now but it looks like only about 3 ounces of Pure Raspberry Kush.
 

BigHornBuds

Well-Known Member
I've used Green Cleaner, SM-90, and Spinosad repeatedly. I think I kill them all and about 7-10 days later, they show up again. I have 3 plants deep into flower right now so I have to be careful what I use so I don't mess up the buds. My veg'ing plants are doing okay as of now - they have been treated several times too, but I plan to hit them with neem a couple times before putting them into flower.

My 2x3 scrog area usually produces around 6-8 ounces and the mites did a number on those 2 plants too. The plants were cut early and drying now but it looks like only about 3 ounces of Pure Raspberry Kush.
You need to add nematodes to your medium at the same time,
Your only killing adults, and missing the larva in the medium.
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
I've used Green Cleaner, SM-90, and Spinosad repeatedly. I think I kill them all and about 7-10 days later, they show up again. I have 3 plants deep into flower right now so I have to be careful what I use so I don't mess up the buds. My veg'ing plants are doing okay as of now - they have been treated several times too, but I plan to hit them with neem a couple times before putting them into flower.

My 2x3 scrog area usually produces around 6-8 ounces and the mites did a number on those 2 plants too. The plants were cut early and drying now but it looks like only about 3 ounces of Pure Raspberry Kush.
Get some nukem you are gonna need to go atomic on those fuckers.

https://www.flyingskull.net/Flying-Skull-Nuke-Em-8-oz.html
 

banke1

Well-Known Member
I got 1200g of gg#4 with my first run under the spydrx+, far from a perfect run... jacks 321/mammoth/fluvic, 1500co2, 12/12, 67 days, 75* 55rh, flood+drain with ~72* water. in a room full of gravitas which is why I kept it 75*

if any light is going to do 3+ it its going to be my freshly built 12x qb288v2 @ 1400ma. if this doesn't do it then ill be switching it to 1050ma and adding in 400nm,450nm,630nm,660nm
 
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Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
I got 1200g of gg#4 with my first run under the spydrx+, far from a perfect run... jacks 321/mammoth/fluvic, 1500co2, 12/12, 67 days, 75* 55rh, flood+drain with ~72* water. in a room full of gravitas which is why I kept it 75*

if any light is going to do 3+ it its going to be my freshly built 12x qb288v2 @ 1400ma. if this doesn't do it then ill be switching it to 1050ma and adding in 400nm,450nm,630nm,660nm
pictures?
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Fuck those little assholes. How are you fighting them?
There are only two methods I've found to definitively get rid of mites/aphids.

Method 1: Dr Doom Foggers.

How to: Cut the fans and exhaust. Turn off the central air. Open the tents. Turn off the lights (or better, work during the dark cycle). Set a stool in the center of the room (covered with a trash bag if you plan on sitting on it in the future). Hold your breath. Activate the fogger and spend 10-15 seconds fogging the plants directly. Place the fogger on the stool and exit the room. Allow the fog to work for 3 hours. Enter the room while holding breath and turn on the exhaust (which should be filtered if it exhausts somewhere else inside the building). Wait 30 minutes and turn the AC back on.

Repeat the procedure after 3 days. The bugs are now gone. If you do not repeat the procedure on day 3 you will not be successful in ridding the room of bugs.

If you do not need to fog an entire room you can activate the fogger without fully depressing the tab. The fogger will deactivate when you release the tab. Spray the tent/closet well and seal the grow area.

Caveat: Don't use on buds. Tolerate the bugs until you're at a point where there are no flowers in the room. This is because A- nobody want's Dr Doom on their flowers and B- Dr Doom will harm buds (does not harm vegetative growth).

A disposable glove on your spray hand is a good idea. If you plan on being in the room more than 15 seconds, wear a respirator rated for pesticides. Wear long sleeves, long pants, and goggles. As far as pesticides go DrDoom Foggers are pretty mild, but that's like saying a little bit of cancer is okay.

Method 2: Kill all the plants. Wait a couple weeks. Start over.
 

kdt15

Active Member
I'm doing single plant scrog most times. I pretty much grow for personal at this point so I did what I could to make everything streamlined. This run I expect around 1.5 lb but I could be under or overshooting my guess from my 5x5 tent, I've gotten up to 830 dry from a single indoor plant. Pretty decent for a single plant grow. Being a scrog all the buds are extremely uniform so trimming is a quick job, every bud is about 2 thumbs wide an about 4 inches tall and theres almost 2 weeks to go.
It's all very easy and low stress to only take care of a single plant in a small-ish tent like this.
In the past I was a medium scale medical grower doing 7200 kw grows, around 10kw counting the a/c's an fans.

More plants tends to have always given more more bud, while fewer plants gave me higher quality.


Oh an per lb, counting all my nutrients, dirt, power etc its costing me around $200

Edit to add, I probably spend less than a hour a week maintaining the plant.
nice, those mid scale were like 10 4x4s i presume? scrog seems the way to go for personal since it seems much less work to manage. does flower time defintiely take longer though compared to a sog?
 

kdt15

Active Member
why? its easy to match the photon of a 1000W of DE with 7-800W of good LED. No reason it cant be done. nice garden BTW


just take whatever wattage the gavita is running at and multiply by 0.7 to 0.8 to account for the difference in efficiency (and keep in mind that a lot of people run their gavitas at up to 1150W)

its 100% a space, strain, and grower skill issue. there is nothing you can do with an HPS that you cant do with 70-80% of the wattage with LED. If you believe otherwise, youve got several years of threads to catch up on
0.7 - 0.8 seems high. got a quote from hlg indicating their 550v2 model runs at 480w and replaces a 1000w se gavita, and the 600w version replaces the 1000w de gavita. any reason for 0.7-0.8 .... is it assuming a lower quality led?

furthermore, is there any other adv to led aside from efficiency/cost/heat? i was thinking the spectrums were better for growing (3000k, at least)?
 

kdt15

Active Member
Vertical HPS. It's a 4'x4'x6' box on 6" legs. Two 600w bulbs hang inline down the middle of the box. There is a floor fan at the bottom blowing straight up over the bulbs, air-cooling them, and an extractor fan above pulling the air out (which you can see in the photo). A cylindrical trellis is wrapped around the bulbs and fans, and the plants are grown around the outside - up to eight at a time.

The plants are grown in 2-gallon pots of coco that are auto fed by drippers on timers. The waste nutrient drains out the bottom and out into a vege garden outside - that's why the box is on legs, so the plumbing hoses (nutrient inlet, waste outlet) can enter and exit underneath. There's a hole in the bottom of the box, which also lets in fresh air and keeps light leaks to a minimum.

You'll notice the plants are not typically top-heavy - they grow bushy on all sides because they have complete side-lighting. You get much more yield for the same height, and no wasted light, as the bulbs are completely surrounded by plants.

It's a great way to grow tall sativas, as you can see below. But I also like to grow a bit of variety, so I didn't always maximise my space., and always had various height plants in there.

I've never really liked horizontal HPS set-ups, as most of the light is reflected off the hoods, which probably only have 80% efficiency, and heat is trapped underneath. With vertical growing, no light is reflected and all the heat is ducted away. It's also a good use of a small footprint, as you are obviously growing vertically.

There are two reasons why the big room I designed has horizontal HPS lamps. Firstly, my mate was skeptical of LEDs and wanted to use HPS. "Fair enough" I said. He then wanted to grow vertically, like me. But I said that eventually he would come around to LED and that it would be easier to covert if we set the grow up initially as a horizontal grow.

Horizontal grows are a little less work than vertical, as you need to do a lot of plant maintenance to ensure they grow around the light and fill in all the gaps.

Here are some other old grows that were different to the previous one I posted. They weren't alway 3.5lb - depending on strain (I always multi-cropped) - but the best I had was close to 4lb (60oz) in that 4x4, growing a bunch of haze plants similar to the one below.

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4lb is insane! nice! how long veg and flower did that need and do you remember that strain specifically?
 

kdt15

Active Member
They're just QB324 panels with heat sinks connected by 50x25mm L frame. The L-frame is turned upside down to reflect a bit of ambient light back in, but also to act as a blind spot when working on the plants (so you don't get blinded walking past!) and finally the frames can be rested on the floor without damaging the LEDs if need be. The QB324 panels are side-by because I originally designed this system to be one plant per 3x3 to minimise plant numbers (for legal reasons), and I wanted good penetration in the middle and wasn't so concerned with the light around the edges - which is supplemented by overlapping light from the next station anyway.

Each QB324 panel (there are two per frame) can be driven at up to 250W, but I have them dialled down to 200W each (400W per frame/station) on a HLG-480 driver. So, 400W LED replaces 600W HPS, but I can dial the LED up to 500W if we don't get the results we want. However, I suspect 400W will be enough, and any more may result in bleaching.
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nice set up! how much do those heat sinks cost? and any reason for deciding a qb vs an led strip?

i went for led strip out of convenienceand threw them on u channels as a poverty heat sink which seems to work fine, though metal was a lot more expensive than i though...,

always curious about qb's and if its easier or better to go with them! the upside down L preventing damage is actually really smart.
 

growingforfun

Well-Known Member
nice, those mid scale were like 10 4x4s i presume? scrog seems the way to go for personal since it seems much less work to manage. does flower time defintiely take longer though compared to a sog?
Naw it was full rooms. I tried the multiple tent route an it wasnt for me, too much lost floor space. It's way easier to cool rooms.
Every style of flowering takes the same amount of time.
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
0.7 - 0.8 seems high. got a quote from hlg indicating their 550v2 model runs at 480w and replaces a 1000w se gavita, and the 600w version replaces the 1000w de gavita. any reason for 0.7-0.8 .... is it assuming a lower quality led?

furthermore, is there any other adv to led aside from efficiency/cost/heat? i was thinking the spectrums were better for growing (3000k, at least)?
light quantity > light quality in most cases

efficiency is its major benefit
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
0.7 - 0.8 seems high. got a quote from hlg indicating their 550v2 model runs at 480w and replaces a 1000w se gavita, and the 600w version replaces the 1000w de gavita. any reason for 0.7-0.8 .... is it assuming a lower quality led?

furthermore, is there any other adv to led aside from efficiency/cost/heat? i was thinking the spectrums were better for growing (3000k, at least)?
600w of led will not replace a gavita DE 1kw, do not listen to manufacturers trying to sell you their equipment.
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
4lb is insane! nice! how long veg and flower did that need and do you remember that strain specifically?
Strain was my old Stinky Catpiss Haze - now known as Atomical Haze from Paradise Seeds. My clone came from original test seeds before they went to market. It's a Super Silver Haze derivative, and it would go 10 weeks. Flower and veg were on a perpetual cycle, so two weeks to clone leaves eight weeks to veg in-between flowering cycles (I continually cloned off successive generations). I didn't really need all that time to veg, so I would slow them down with light feedings and, at the time, a pretty weak 250W MH. Then trim them good and well before throwing them into flower. The haze liked to be multi-topped so it could branch out.

nice set up! how much do those heat sinks cost? and any reason for deciding a qb vs an led strip?

i went for led strip out of convenienceand threw them on u channels as a poverty heat sink which seems to work fine, though metal was a lot more expensive than i though...,

always curious about qb's and if its easier or better to go with them! the upside down L preventing damage is actually really smart.
I've built five Samsung strip frames so far and decided to try the QB324s because they came packaged with heat sinks for a decent price and because I liked the spectrum: a mix of Nichia 757 3000K CRI 80 and CRI 90 for a nice red flowering spectrum. To the human eye, they are not far off the HPS we're running, so I think the extra red between 620nm and 660nm will benefit.
 

lukio

Well-Known Member
@kdt15 Whatever you do, don't listen to @Yodaweed. He's mentally challenged, cant read properly and horridly butthurt.

Page 1 and 2 of the Quantum Board thread are a fine example of this, look at him showing his knowledge, saying the QB' wont work. Ask him about the inverse square law that means these "leds dont work" ...he loves messing that one up (:

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Just stick him on ignore.
 

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kdt15

Active Member
Strain was my old Stinky Catpiss Haze - now known as Atomical Haze from Paradise Seeds. My clone came from original test seeds before they went to market. It's a Super Silver Haze derivative, and it would go 10 weeks. Flower and veg were on a perpetual cycle, so two weeks to clone leaves eight weeks to veg in-between flowering cycles (I continually cloned off successive generations). I didn't really need all that time to veg, so I would slow them down with light feedings and, at the time, a pretty weak 250W MH. Then trim them good and well before throwing them into flower. The haze liked to be multi-topped so it could branch out.


I've built five Samsung strip frames so far and decided to try the QB324s because they came packaged with heat sinks for a decent price and because I liked the spectrum: a mix of Nichia 757 3000K CRI 80 and CRI 90 for a nice red flowering spectrum. To the human eye, they are not far off the HPS we're running, so I think the extra red between 620nm and 660nm will benefit.
sweet results, how long was the flower time after the 10 week of clone/veg?

how do you like the QB's so far compared to the strips? i figure you cant tell yet for quality/yield but its probably easer and nicer to set up compared to strips and is cheaper?
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
10 weeks.

Yeah, a lot easier to set up, but not necessarily cheaper than strips. Probably very similar in price, actually.
 
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