any one that can help explain how to use this electrical board??? pics inside

crazyj4life

Member
does 2 boxes say 240v and one say 120v, do I need 240v cords or just 240v setting on my ballast?? And the third box is marked 120v time/live are the outlets on the right not on the timer and the ones on the left are??? I know how to work this timer. I just wanna be sure before I hook this bad boy up....IMG_0978.jpgIMG_0982[1].jpgIMG_0983[1].jpgIMG_0985[1].jpgIMG_0984[1].jpg
 

GanjaGod420000

Well-Known Member
I'm an electrician... Looks to me like two bottom boxes are 240V and are fed from the timer on the top left of the board, and the top right box is also "half-fed" from the timer(left recep is timed, and right one isnt), but is 120V, probably for fans, or other shit... It's some funky-lookin' shit though. I like to use the proper NEMA-configuration receptacles for whatever I'm powering, especially 240V stuff, which shouldn't match a 120V plug(so they aren't accidentally plugged into by a 120V device). I would suggest having someone fix your stuff up properly and safely, because that's the heartbeat of your op, and you want to have any potential fire-hazards under wraps... Just sayin'... That said, it may work just fine, however "modified" it is, so whatever works for you. I guess I can't say much, I zip-tie open ballasts and capacitors, and ignitors with open wiring(safe, but exposed), on the top insulated-wire rack in the top of my space, and have never had a problem... Matter of fact with a fan directly on the ballasts, they actually stay cooler than if it were a "store-bought" enclosed, "plug-in" fixture... Anyways, hope this helps...
 

crazyj4life

Member
I'm an electrician... Looks to me like two bottom boxes are 240V and are fed from the timer on the top left of the board, and the top right box is also "half-fed" from the timer(left recep is timed, and right one isnt), but is 120V, probably for fans, or other shit... It's some funky-lookin' shit though. I like to use the proper NEMA-configuration receptacles for whatever I'm powering, especially 240V stuff, which shouldn't match a 120V plug(so they aren't accidentally plugged into by a 120V device). I would suggest having someone fix your stuff up properly and safely, because that's the heartbeat of your op, and you want to have any potential fire-hazards under wraps... Just sayin'... That said, it may work just fine, however "modified" it is, so whatever works for you. I guess I can't say much, I zip-tie open ballasts and capacitors, and ignitors with open wiring(safe, but exposed), on the top insulated-wire rack in the top of my space, and have never had a problem... Matter of fact with a fan directly on the ballasts, they actually stay cooler than if it were a "store-bought" enclosed, "plug-in" fixture... Anyways, hope this helps...
Yea big time, but I thought 240v socket were different from a normal 120v socket. So do I need to use my ballast on the 240v setting with the normal plug?? I have spoken to a few ppl that have used this a the place I picked it up(other customers that were shopping not an employee) they said it works well. Hope it's safe. Do you think I could get an electrician to look at it and confirm weather or not it's safe??? I may just use it for the 240v and just ignore the other box.
 

mayhem01

Member
I come from the Electrical/Instrumentation field, Myself. I would strongly urge you to switch the Receptacles over. There easy to find, Go to home depot and ask. I just hate to see someone, or even yourself. Accidently plug something in. IMO... but electricians are the worst, We rig stuff up all the time...
 

imchucky666

Well-Known Member
Yea big time, but I thought 240v socket were different from a normal 120v socket. So do I need to use my ballast on the 240v setting with the normal plug?? I have spoken to a few ppl that have used this a the place I picked it up(other customers that were shopping not an employee) they said it works well. Hope it's safe. Do you think I could get an electrician to look at it and confirm weather or not it's safe??? I may just use it for the 240v and just ignore the other box.
I've seen a couple comments from GG420000 before, and ya, if I were you would heed his suggestion and have somebody look at it. When I finally quit laughing, my first thought was somebody was high when they threw that together.
I don't know anything concerning 110 or 220 that I would trust with a 110v plug and sharpie marker.............
 

imchucky666

Well-Known Member

crazyj4life

Member
OK, so it IS professionally mfg. When you put the link, and the other pics with the stickers, we now know that it wasn't thrown together in some basement.
Does / do your ballasts have a 110v plug like that? If not, you can get an adaptor for it, but still do you have a 220 wall plug in your grow area on a double circuit (rated for 40A)?
Plugs, check. On the 220v socket, I do have one but it's 10ft from where I need the board. I was thinking some type of extention cord or trying to rig a new cord up. A lil worried about the DIY method.
 

imchucky666

Well-Known Member
You can go to Lowe's or Depot, and they should have 10 or 12 foot dryer cord with 220 male and female ends. Just get an adaptor to change female to 110, will be better than you trying to put your own end on
 

mayhem01

Member
Depending where you live it might actually be 208. In the US, a house had 2 legs of 110 and a neutral. any leg of 110v to N =110v but go across both legs of 110v you only get 208v. it's a phase thing...
 

crazyj4life

Member
huh you guys are confusing me a bit. I should only need the dryer cord 220v 10-14 ft. The cord from the bord is 220v I'm pretty sure
 

GanjaGod420000

Well-Known Member
LOL! Thatz some funny shit dude! I thought the same thing myself! I always say there's no excuse to "haveta" rig up some b.s., when you can order the correct material to do the task safely. Especially when it comes to indoor ganja gardens, especially in states where it is not yet a legal option....
I've seen a couple comments from GG420000 before, and ya, if I were you would heed his suggestion and have somebody look at it. When I finally quit laughing, my first thought was somebody was high when they threw that together.
I don't know anything concerning 110 or 220 that I would trust with a 110v plug and sharpie marker.............
 

GanjaGod420000

Well-Known Member
Ya, as long as the voltage and amperage rating is correct on the plug, and your cord matches the plug(in voltage, and amperage), and the light or whatever thats being powered by the cord is wired for that voltage and amperage, then you shouldn't have any issues... I still hate to see cases where folks don't know a "cool" electrician, who could totally do this stuff for them, and know that it is legit and safe...
 
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