another year same problem...so sad

kelme

Active Member
Hay guys...
I have a big problem for the second year in a row...
till now my plants grow up normally, but few weeks before flowering they started to get some dark purple spots and slowly dieing...

Can it be the humid area...
I used common soil mixed with special flower soil like other, this year i fertilised them only twice, they are not underwatered or owerwatered (my oppinion)...
PLEASE HELP ME, my friend around use the same things but don't have those problems...
 

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cbtwohundread

Well-Known Member
ive actualy nvr seen this b4.,.,how humid is it in your area?it lo0ks like they to0k a turn for the worst prety fast
 

SwizZchEeZe

Member
This may or may not shed some light on your situation and after readingit makes sense since your friend doesn't have the same prob with the same soil etc.

Link is here: http://www.oisat.org/pests/diseases/fungal/cercospora_leaf_spot.html (same info)

Cercospora leaf spot


Scientific name: Cercospora spp.
Causal organism: Fungus
Important species:

Cercospora leaf spot on carrot (C. carotae)
Cercospora leaf spot on grain legumes; Cercospora leaf blight (C. canescens)
Frogeye leaf spot of pepper (C. capsici)
Gray leaf spot on sorghum (C. sorghi)
Gray leaf spot of corn (C. zeaemaydis)
Cercospora leaf spot of soybeans (C. kikuchii)
Frogeye leaf spot of soybean (C. sojina)
Cercospora leaf spot or brown eyespot of coffee (C. coffeicola)

Host plants


Grain legume, carrot, eggplant, pepper, tomato, tobacco, rice, corn, sorghum, oil palm, cotton, coffee, and other secondary host crops Affected plant stages

All growth stages Affected plant parts

Leaves, stems, fruits, pods, seeds Symptoms

Cercospora leaf spot on carrot

Infested leaf has tan to brown spots with curled leaf margin and later on it withers. As the disease progresses, the leaflets turn yellow and also with curled margins. Spots on the leaf petioles, stems, and flower parts become elongated and have dark-brown color. On heavily infested plant, defoliation may occur.

Cercospora leaf spot on grain legumes; Cercospora leaf blight

Infected leaf has semi-round brown lesions with pale-tan to gray centers that are surrounded by dark-brown or reddish slightly depressed margins. A closer look shows white masses of spores growing on the dead tissues.

Frogeye leaf spot of pepper

Infected leaf has frogeye-shaped spots, about 0.2-1.5 cm in size. The center of the spots is grayish-brown colored dead tissues. Masses of small black dot-liked fungal spores are found scattered on the dead tissues. During severe infection, yellowing and defoliation occur.

Gray leaf spot on sorghum

Infected leaf has small circular to elliptical dark-purple or red spots with tan or brown center. Eventually, the spots elongate and are covered by gray spore masses. Heavily infested plant has a blighted appearance.

Gray leaf spot of corn

Initial leaf infestation appears as tiny to slightly elongated, roughly parallel-sided spots with yellow margins. The later stage of infestation shows rectangular tan to gray spots that remain evident on completely blighted leaves. The fungal growth on the lesions gave a characteristic grayish cast, hence the name.

Cercospora leaf spot of soybeans

Infected leaf has reddish-purple angular to irregular spots up to 1 cm in size. During heavy infestation, the leaves have leathery, dark-reddish-purple appearance.

Frogeye leaf spot of soybean

Infected leaf has circular to angular brown spots with narrow red or dark-reddish-brown margins that vary in size from less than 1 mm to 6 mm in diameter. Later, spots have ash-gray to light-brown centers with distinct purple to reddish margins. Eventually, the center becomes nearly white with small dark spots and the margins darken. During heavy infestation, the spots may appear uniformly over the foliage.

Cercospora leaf spot or brown eyespot of coffee

Infested leaf has small yellow eye-like spots that slowly expand up to 5mm in size. Later, the outer portion of the spot is brown while the center becomes gray-white. Infested cherry is dried, blackened, and has almost circular scar on the pulp which makes de-pulping difficult. Diseased berries have poor the bean quality. Conditions that favor development


  1. Warm temperature, frequent rain, and high humidity
  2. Diseased-seeds and planting materials
  3. Over-crowded plants with poor air flow and low sunlight penetration among plants
  4. Improper soil nutrient and irrigation management
  5. Poor soil drainage
Prevention and control


  1. Rotate crops
  2. Heat water seed treatment
  3. Use diseased-free seeds or use resistant cultivars
  4. Proper observance of planting distances
  5. Proper field sanitation
  6. Removal and proper disposal of infected plants. Burn infected plant tissues when possible
  7. Clean contaminated equipment
  8. Avoid working when plants are wet
 

ralston420

Well-Known Member
Looks like mold to me (3rd pic). My advice is to cut out any affected areas completely, otherwise it will keep re-appearing. Dust the exposed area with baking soda (or any spray for mold) and that should help to contain it. Otherwise it will continue to spread.

Are they in a dark area that stays wet? From the pics it looks like they are. That could be one of your problems.

Also there are strains that are more mold resistant. You may want to look into those for next year.

Good luck.
 

SwizZchEeZe

Member
from what I seen different plants get different colors with this disease...the causes seem to add up to what you explained, tis why I posted it. may or may not be but should help
 

ralston420

Well-Known Member
Something else... Make sure to keep the plant clear of any dead leaves, this will promote mold to grow. Remove all those dead leaves from the plant.
 

Smiley D

Well-Known Member
Termites in your area?

Chop an effected plant near the base. Termites crawling out of a hollow stem?

Maybe plant AIDS??
 

kelme

Active Member
DO you think that i can prevent the fungus (next year) by using sulfur like they do on vine plants to prevent deseases or other things...
I thought using sulfur a few weeks after planting plants or clones outside... THIS HELPS WITH VINE and prevents deseases... I live near italy so we have submediterranian clime...


Thans for the answers....
 

CrackerJax

New Member
With fungus control...if that is your goal....you need to get ahead of it. Far too often the first time ppl use fungicide is when they notice the mold. Deep doo doo already.
When the plant is still vegging and before it starts to flower, apply a fungicide every two or three weeks on them. This will make them a difficult environment for the mold to take hold.

Mold travels around by spore, so even when you cut it...you are inadvertently spreading the spores around. Rain drops hitting the affected area will spread it.

Gotta get ahead of it. :peace:
 

Richie LxP

Well-Known Member
With fungus control...if that is your goal....you need to get ahead of it. Far too often the first time ppl use fungicide is when they notice the mold. Deep doo doo already.
When the plant is still vegging and before it starts to flower, apply a fungicide every two or three weeks on them. This will make them a difficult environment for the mold to take hold.

Mold travels around by spore, so even when you cut it...you are inadvertently spreading the spores around. Rain drops hitting the affected area will spread it.

Gotta get ahead of it. :peace:

By the advice i sence you have had many the mold problem in the past. i live in ireland and we get shit ass weather, rain every day and humidity of about 60-80%.

Would these be the kinda of conditions mold would be likley to ravage the plant?

Cheers.
 

CrackerJax

New Member
By the advice i sence you have had many the mold problem in the past. i live in ireland and we get shit ass weather, rain every day and humidity of about 60-80%.

Would these be the kinda of conditions mold would be likley to ravage the plant?

Cheers.
yes, it sure will. Mold really needs humidity and if you get it once in awhile(the humidity), no worries, but when it sits there day after day like where I live for months at a time...it takes its toll. I fungicide in veg and STILL battle that darn stuff.

I get smaller grows in the winter (sunny climate), but worry free and no insecticides either...a true organic grow.
 

john mcrules

Active Member
termites tunnel up the trunk. as they near the exterior they create hollow spots which apear as brown lines. one thing you can do is clip a lower drooping branch and see if it is hollowed out like a straw. if it is hollow then termites are the problem. another thing to try is pressing the brown area and see if it collapses. since i GG, i am in the woods with plenty of termite food. i have learned next time to dig deeper and import my own soil.
 

CrackerJax

New Member
Oh, don't even mention those darn termites. I did battle with them this year as well. I had some plants that just didn't want to stay in the 3G's, so I put them in a nice place, and within a week, it was timberrrrr on the first one. My heart sank as I saw it for the first time and knew I was in trouble. Every single one I moved out had termites to some degree. Arghhhh!

So, here is the Cracker way of getting rid of them. First, if the plants are in the ground, your screwed. Termites will not be denied there. You can and should dig them up and put them in containers. Wet the soil of course to reduce shock. I usually and didn't get any at all. Put the containers on some flat pieces of wood, plywood is fine. You can cut oversized wood mats if you wish for each container. Then after you are sure the plants are OK from the move, don't water it the next day, and check it early in the morning. Tip the container sideways and peek at the center hole area. There will be termites on the wood mat, trying to build a tunnel from the pot to the Earth. Crush them with your finger. As the day gets hotter the termites go back up, and cannot be gotten at. Repeat this every morning early...... you sort of "wick" the termites out with the piece of wood underneath. After a week, you will see no more.
 
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