An open discussion on Simon D's "A Perfect Cure Every Time" method.

Vindicated

Well-Known Member
Let me start by saying this is an open thread and anyone who has an opinion is welcome to share their thoughts. My goal is to learn from each other through civil discussion and debate.

As the title points out. This is about RIU forum member Simon D and his curing methods. In his post titled The Perfect Cure, Simon mentioned that curing occurs when relative humidity is between 60% to 65% RH. He goes on to argue that at lower and higher humidity levels curing does not take place.

I found it nearly impossible to fact check this claim, so I began researching tobacco curing. What I eventually found was many references to curing at 70% RH and even some instances where people cured at 80% RH. I'm also relying on personal experience with curing at different humidity ranges, which is what initially led me to question the claim that no curing occurs above 65% RH.

From what I understand about curing, the higher the humidity the faster the cure takes place, but higher humidity comes with a huge risk. High humidity (generally anything above 73% RH) can very easily lead to mold problems. As a precaution, most tobacco growers stay at or just under 70%RH for short term air curing. For longer term storage, humidity is dropped to even safer levels (around 60% RH) to account for fluctuations in ambient temperature, which can also influence the rate at which mold grows.

After the initial cure is set, many tobacco growers will adjust the humidity even further to produce a more pleasurable and smoother hitting smoke. Cigar smokers seem to prefer to stay at 65% to 70% RH indefinitely, while pipe smokers prefer a dryer smoke at 50% to 55% RH. Cigarettes, joints and chewing tobacco users seem to like an even lower RH at around 45% to 50%. Below that and the tobacco gets very brittle and harsh to smoke.

In my experience I've found the rules for air curing tobacco is the same for curing cannabis. It's important to also mention there are several ways to cure tobacco, some involving ovens or light bulbs that don't apply to cannabis users, but the basic principles behind curing remain the same.

Cannabis that's below 45% RH becomes brittle and seems to become very harsh when smoked while buds kept at 70% RH are simply to wet to smoke in anything but a vape and seems to have little to no smell. Even though you can vape it, grinding is more difficult, so it's not really practical, nor is it safe for long term storage. I believe -- and this is where I have a different opinion then Simon D -- that curing still takes place at this range.

I do agree with Simon D when he suggested a range of 55% to 60% RH as being ideal. This seems to be about perfect for bongs, which is pretty close to that of tobacco pipe smokers. However, I'd go even further and say you should adjust your RH to the way you smoke. It may prove to be more enjoyable to keep RH higher or lower. I disagree with the claim that curing cannot occur at higher humidity levels. Instead I feel that curing occurs faster, but the risk of mold increases, so one must be extra careful and take that into consideration

What are your thoughts?
 

SimonD

Well-Known Member
I believe -- and this is where I have a different opinion then Simon D -- that curing still takes place at this range.
It's great to see folks show this sort of an interest. The Perfect Cure methodology was tested for +7 years before its introduction, using every permutation of the concept. The (numerical) scale errs on the conservative side. Last thing I want is for someone to fuck up his harvest. Folks are certainly free to use whatever values they prefer. I would just strongly suggest not doing so, until one develops a more defined gauge for the process.

Simon
 

Izoc666

Well-Known Member
Well i will admit, i have several fuckups with drying and curing long time ago...theres no such tutorial how to feel the gauge with the buds , how much its wet or dry, crispy on the buds etc. Until I found the SimonD's Perfect Cure thread and it worked out beautiful for me...its give me place a start to learn by use hygrometer and SimonD's guide and to get understand of the bud's curing...and we will have different the RH level in our area, the vents etc. And not mention to depend on the bud's density. Later I learned the art of curing...i ditched the hygrometer and goes the gauge and smell way.

One thing I never grow tabacco plants before...I like to smoke Camel~non filter...i like the middle, not too fresh because it hard to burn while you re tring to inhale...and not stale or drier one that will take the flavor away, middle one is perfect , easy to inhale, aroma and flavor is perfect as well. Sometime I would put the carton in the fridge, its work good for me too :D

I personally think SimonD's guide of RH levels are right spot on...Hey SimonD , you re still rock star !

And Vincdicaed, this thread is very excellent to discussion about RH. Thanks !

happy gardening.
 

wbd

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, great thread. Here's hoping it stay that way.

I've done 3 harvests abiding by SimonD's guide and have had great luck with it, I'm achieving longer/slower cures with 0 incidents of mold or brittle/overdried herbs. This is now an essential component of my personal overall growing methodology.

Last time around I decided to long-term cure at 65% instead of the usual 55-60%. No worries whatsoever with mold, but I find that the burn quality is poor at 65% and is more prone to black ash and a shitty burn overall. These jars were stored at 65% but upon first use I left the lids open a bit to bring the RH down below 60% for that quality burn and white ash.

In summary, I see possible merit long-term cures at a higher RH as OP suggests, but for proper burning and ash I'll suggest that 65% is just too wet still.
 

indcolts77

Active Member
Im also using SimonDs method for my first cure... i have alot of bud drying right now but am doing a test run with a clone I cut about 4 days before my main crop.

Anyway, i was also considering using a slightly higher RH (~67%) in an attempt to get a stickier product with a lil moisture still in it...interesting thread OP, ill post my results as time goes on...im subbing up.

Also SimonD, thanks for this its great for a concrete numbers guy like myself. Question though...can you define the snap you look for in the stem? If it snaps in half (but not cleanly in two pieces, like still hanging on), am i good? Or is that too dry? Im confused as to when to jar...i jarred the clone when i thought it was ready and it climbed from ambient to 88% after 1 hour? I was way off Lol
 

Laney

Well-Known Member
I bought a few hygometers and am using the perfect cure on batches. I don't have the time or will to test every jar so I select a candidate jar for each batch and spot check the others. This low-key approach is working very well so far.
 
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