...All Things Vero...

Thanks JavaCo.

Generally speaking they keep the chips physically identical and upgrade the diodes. However, if you read another press release they say they are working with another company to put a push connect onto the chip in holder. This will help those who are not savvy with the solder, and also those who are and would rather be smoking.

I wonder why vero29C gen7 puts out soooooooooo many more lumens?

So how much better/ efficient will the new version be? From 132lm/w to 155 lm/w, but we don't care tooo much about lumens,righ?The PPL numbers are more important to us growers..is there anyone out there running at 2100ma and at what temps???oopps have to get back to work

Airwalker16 said:

I wonder why vero29C gen7 puts out soooooooooo many more lumens?

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Maybe lower cree? Or this is how they're doing binning lol.


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waltzNo2 said:

Thanks JavaCo.

Generally speaking they keep the chips physically identical and upgrade the diodes. However, if you read another press release they say they are working with another company to put a push connect onto the chip in holder. This will help those who are not savvy with the solder, and also those who are and would rather be smoking.

Click to expand...

Yeah for the veros you can clip the ez-molex very handy

Zefito said:

So how much better/ efficient will the new version be? From 132lm/w to 155 lm/w, but we don't care tooo much about lumens,righ?The PPL numbers are more important to us growers..is there anyone out there running at 2100ma and at what temps???oopps have to get back to work

Click to expand...

If you know the LER of a source then you know what efficiency percentage a particular lumen count per watt is. The 3500K supposedly will output 161 LPW (at 25C I'm guessing). Adjusted for typical temps it's back down to around 154-155. Assuming the LER is the same g6/g7, where g6 was about 40% efficient g7 will be about 47-48% efficient. This is as efficient as CXB current top bin at nominal. Cree will still be ahead by a "bin" with their revision, but it's a very worthy update for Bridgelux.

I run 29s at 1450mA (a long time ago supra spec'd those drivers for 2 36V CXA 3590 chips) and I would not drive the current generation (6th) any harder than that. As the efficiency goes down and the power goes up the chip and heat sink will put out serious heat. It works for me, but I also wish I had more to drive at less current. Once you get into LEDs more chips with less current in each chip is something you will fantasize about too.

If all you want is the rated 155lm/W then you can try a 7th gen at 2100mA when they come out. Keep in mind that is 36x2.1=75W of power, which is a lot for any heat sink of that size to handle unless the efficiency is very high. Dropping them to 1.5A or even 1A will get more lm/W and cooler temps which will make even more lm/W

I'm not sure how the Cree fiends figure out their PAR Wattage. I'm guessing they use lm/W and the spectral output as it relates to the PAR spectrum?

There is that little connector, and on the next generation there may be a push in connection like the chiplok or chip clip for Cree. I have to say I dislike the metal chiplok, many perfectly good hours of my life were wasted installing cxb2540's using those. Push in connector is cool though.

Ok thanks ..makes sense...anyone to comment on driving veros @2100ma?temps?

Just get the right cooling tools for the job. Some commercial fixtures have driven Veros over their suggested wattage. Lots of people have built budget lamps running at nominal.

Heat can be managed but under driving is where the efficiency gains are. One of the new Vero 29s is 120w at nominal. I'm curious what it will do at 75 watts, at 50 watts. I'm also curious how they are managing to produce different wattage chips with the same light emitting surface. Bridgelux is being very tight lipped about it.

Sorry got it...so it's more efficient to drive more cobs at lower ma...would you say 1400ma is the sweet spot for small grow tents? Thank you

Yes agreed..here in Greece..temos are high

Zefito said:

Sorry got it...so it's more efficient to drive more cobs at lower ma...would you say 1400ma is the sweet spot for small grow tents? Thank you

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It depends on which emitters you're using, target light level, how tall the tent is, how much money you care to spend, etc.

Airwalker16 said:

I wonder why vero29C gen7 puts out soooooooooo many more lumens?

Click to expand...

Are these even the same size LES? All different voltages for A/B/C. These are really excellent numbers. It's going to be fun to compare against Citizen's latest generation, especially since these will be a lot easier to find.

Rahz said:

It depends on which emitters you're using, target light level, how tall the tent is, how much money you care to spend, etc.

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What is emitters? The cobs?or the drivers?once you start building LEDs..money is not an issue ..my tent is 1sq meter..have 3 29 @ 1400@ 3000k and going to add on more 3000k and a 4000k..depending on temps..thanks

Emitters are the cobs/light engine/diodes.

Add at least 3 more. 300w of Vero at 1.4 amps will be nice in a sq/meter. I don't see temps being an issue.

Wow at least 3.i have 2 plants ..ill wait for the new ones.. We need a serious meanwell driver ...with thermal gun the 3 veros at 33c after 5hours on ...tent temo 27-28c for automazar

Well, it really depends on what you're trying to do. I'm just suggesting that 300w of them in a meter square isn't outrageous by any means. At 1.4 amps (45% efficiency) it's about 13 par watts per foot which isn't extreme. My understanding is that 30C is an optimal canopy temp.

No of course..i guess like everyone to try maximize g/w..i thought that if foliaging temps should not surpass 26c or the stomata will close and not accept nutrients.Isn't optimal canopy temp around 25c and the maximum 30c?I'm going to experiment with different setups.Ideally, 4 vero 29 v2 on 20 x16x4cm cooler would be perfect.
Does anyone have any experience in making these?


Should be a fun DIY

This graph is from a study showing 30C promoting the highest growth rate. Worth nothing is that 25C is better than 35C.

Thanks for the info, perfect for me here in Greece temps are going up fast.....Has anyone tried a similar approach with the heatsinks?