first thing I would do is get a bigger grow space to flower in and use your closet as a veg space.Hello everyone! This is my first post on RIU, but I've been lurking for quite a while. I've been planning a DIY Vero fixture and I'm seeking some feedback on my plan before I start firing off orders.
My grow space (shallow closet) dimensions are 6'(w) x 2'(d) x 8' (h). Realistic canopy dimensions are roughly 5.8'x1.8'... so, let's say 10.5 sq. ft. (or ~1 sq. meter) with 4 plants (5, max). I'll be using the space for both veg & flower. The plan is to run a single "beam" of COBs mounted to Arctic 11 coolers, using aluminum angle or square bar as a rail system.
The setup:
4 x Vero 29 V2 3000K (80 CRI); powered by 1x Inventronics EUC-320S210DT @ 2.1A (dimmable); wired in series.
3 x Vero 18 4000K (80 CRI); powered by 1x Meanwell HLG-120H-C1400B @ 1.4A (dimmable); wired in series.
- I would alternate the COBs, so the string (left-to-right) would be: V29-V18-V29-V18-V29-V18-V29 (spaced at ~10" on center)
- I prefer to minimize the number of drivers for simplicity's sake (and to control cost of the build).
I would have power to each driver on a switch, so I can run the V18 4000Ks for veg, then bring in the V29 3000Ks for flower (running both V18s and V29s), then maybe just the V29s for the last 2 weeks of flower.
Here is my math (this could be way off...):
V29 v2: 37.5Vf x 2.1A = 78.75W x 4 COBs = 315W x 39.64% eff = 128.4 PAR W
V18 v2: 29.83Vf x 1.4A = 41.76W x 3 COBs = 125.29W x 37.94% eff = 47.5 PAR W
So... 440W draw (plus fan power), and ~176 PAR W. Of course those are max numbers, and I would probably dim it down a bit to boost efficiency.
Questions:
1) Does this look like a viable plan?
2) Any errors in my math?
3) Are my spectrum/CRI choices ideal? (should I maybe run 5000K V18s?)
4a) Will a single line of Veros provide ample coverage over the ~2' depth of the space?
4b) Should I run lenses on the COBs? 90-deg or narrower? Or, just run them as is?
5) any comments, suggestions or guidance will be welcomed.
Thanks!
...All Things Vero...
- Thread starter AquariusPanta
- Start date
first thing I would do is get a bigger grow space to flower in and use your closet as a veg space.
is there a disadvantage to drilling\tapping the hole all the way through the heatsink ?bottom as in bottoming taps...too
just a littlefriendly reminder
People need to remember that the drilling depth is about 4-5 mm....screw depth maybe only reaches 2-3mm deep [from flush] in the best case scenario...
Get the tap to turn 2-3 turns and back out...Should be enough...for M3....
the amount of material for an M3 at the bottom is kind of trivial, isn't it ?
rosswaa
Well-Known Member
Only thing I could think would be it would create spots where heat couldn't transfer to other parts of the sink. But wouldnt result in anything
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Rollitup mobile app
Unfortunately, that is not currently an option. I've been growing in a tent that fills half that same closet footprint. I'm expanding to fill the whole closet, doubling my current area. The closet is more than sufficient to produce more bud than I know what to do with.
bicit
Well-Known Member
It doesn't look as nice, but doesn't effect anything. Just make sure you don't drill into one of the fins. It can bugger them up a bit.
That sucks, 1.8' is kind of narrow for a full size plant.
I suggest 6 vero18s driven by meanwell hlg-185H-c1050a mounted on the 4.85" profile from heatsinkusa.com
The vero18s fit your narrow space better than vero29s. It is possible to add some mono deep reds on a separate string on this heatsink to turn on when your in deep flower. In that case I would use 4K or 3.5K vero18s instead of 3K. meanwell lpc-35-700 to drive the deep reds.
Last edited:
CanadianONE
Well-Known Member
With some good training techniques the narrow space should pose any problems though. I concur with your suggestion on lighting though.
yeah a bunch of 8' beanstalks! lol but your right it is manageable
In my 36"x20" tent, under a 400W HPS, with 2 plants/grow, I've been averaging 5.5 oz/plant. Yeah, they are crammed in there, but it works. By moving to the full closet, I should gain 2-3 more inches in depth, which I think will help some. The goal is to grow 4 plants, just to add some variety.
So the 6 vero 18's at 1.05A would be ~184W total draw / ~74 Par W. That is less than half the power than what I had planned out. I would rather err on the side of running "overpowered" with the option to dim. I'm a complete noob to the LED world (though I'm reading/learning all I can)... but, 7 PAR W/sq ft seems under powered. Are you sure that will be sufficient light? (just as a baseline... I understand adding deep reds will add to that total)
With that heat sink you linked, I guess your suggestion is to get one long bar (maybe 60") with 2-3 fans mounted to the top side? Lights running right down the middle of the heat sink?
Thanks for the responses... I appreciate the help/guidance.
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
Run the vero 29's at 25 watts each and you are getting 164 lumen per watt @ 25*c. Compare that to the vero 18 at 25 watts you are only getting 140 lumen per watt @ 25*c.
you could use two of the vero18s+hlg-185H-C1050a sets. one super long one or two shorter ones. personally I would build one first with the plan to build a second one after its done.
at least one 120mm fan on each heatsink.
CanadianONE
Well-Known Member
You can run this setup x 2 to get required light. I didn't do the calculations before I agreed lol or as @nevergoodenuf said also run the 29's softer to gain efficiency which will give you some headroom to turn them up.
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
I have an L shaped room, so most tray configurations don't allow me to get around my plants, but I have a 9' ceiling. 2 or 3 plants flipped at 12" 3 high up the wall with 100 watts per shelf. Will start a thread later as I get it started, but will be same as the grow in my sig., just 40"x 18" for 100 watts.
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
Square chips are not wired in and will be removed when or if I need them. The are Bridgelux dies. The heatsink was enough cooling for 200 watts, is now only cooling 100 watts with the driver mounted outside.
CanadianONE
Well-Known Member
If you plan to run strictly the Vero 18's with no other lighting you will need more then two unless you push them hard (2.1A 33.81% eff)
2' x 2' = 4 ft2 @ 30w/ft2 thats 120 watts required.
Vero 18 4000K @ 2.1A 33.81% efficiency x 2 = 131 dissipated watts (44.29 par watts / 86.71 heat watts)
Vero 18 4000K @ 1.05A 40.55% efficiency x 4 = 122.32 dissipated watts (49.6 par watts / 72.72 heat watts)
CanadianONE
Well-Known Member
Couple of options.
APC-35-1050 (1.05A) 84% efficiency
LPC-35-1050 (1.05A) 85% efficient
EDIT: Could also run all 4 from HLG-120H-C1050 (1.05A dimable) 94% efficient
APC-35-1050 (1.05A) 84% efficiency
LPC-35-1050 (1.05A) 85% efficient
EDIT: Could also run all 4 from HLG-120H-C1050 (1.05A dimable) 94% efficient
I have a small chinese led in there now. It's about 150watts draw power. One of them blurple lights. That's why I want to start with two V18s and then add more if needed. That's the reason for the single drivers as well. Which driver will grow a bigger bud? Thanks CanadianONE