Hey ABF
So I am getting real close to being done with my first set
How close? Buds harvested prematurely will have a lot of dark green leaf compared to light green seed bracts and much less resin than when properly finished flowering. Chlorophylly taste comes from the dark green leafy material, which has not only lots of chlorophyll but a lot of cellulose matter compared tot he amount of resin on them. It's the resin that gives good cannabis a great flavour. I bet mine would taste grassy if I tried sampling something from wk 4 or 5, but you know, I've never done that.
I have read where that if you cure them it will cure it out of them but I am trying to use your methods and i don't recall you stating that your started your process out like that.
Grassy flavour comes from leaf, which has a lot of chlorophyll and cellulose by weight compared to budmass (empty seed bracts) and the THC bearing resin trichomes coating the buds. If you are not smoking leaf, curing, specifically by aging in jars, is not necessary.
It'd be a fair guess to say that about 60% (or more) of the budmass & resin are made in the last 2 weeks. Early sampling thus is not a very good indicator of how the stuff will finish up.
How much leaf have you left on your buds and just how early is this sample?
have you ever tried feeding less than what a nute company suggests?
1/4 - 3/4 of the suggested dose. It seems like overkill the amount you gotta put in there,
There's a bell curve to nute strength; 'not enough,' 'just right' and
dead. The trick is to hit 'just right.'
Dead is occasionally thought by some radicals to be a bad thing, 'not enough' means you sacrificed yield but paid for the power to run the lighting anyway.
especially when they say its concentrated.
Would you rather I go to the hydro shop and bring home 550L of nutes every two weeks which are already mixed with water to the strength plants can use, or should I bring home a pair of 5L jugs which magically turn into 1375L of plant-ready nute mix? Of course, nute mixes are concentrated so you can add your water at home and not pay so much (nor work so hard) to move nutes around.
so many people have salt build up issues, isnt that a hint to lower the godamn amount your using?
No.
Whenever you add nutrient salts to water, when the water evaporates, the salts will remain. Doesn't matter how little you add, there will always be nute salt residues when dealing with hydroponics.
tell the truth now al, do you or have you ever used
nads?
No, but I have some.
Hey AL,
My clones have been under fluros for 10 days now and I still have no sign of roots. 2 of them have grown new leaves on top, but the roots have not popped out of the bottom of the rockwool cubes.
Now 2 of my clones are wilting really bad. I have been watering them 2x a day and keeping the cubes saturated to about 20-25g on the scale. The temp in the room has gone down from 75-76 to now 69 due to the crazy temp change here.
What can i do to perk up the 2 that are wilting badly? The heat pad is on at all times underneath the mat and clones.
I am watering them w/ 5.8 ph adjusted water w/ 30%$ h202 grade.
Most of the water weight lost between waterings with clones is due to evaporation. The clone itself, before it has roots, really only needs a few of grams of water per day.
What has happened is the evaporation rate has decreased because of your recent temperature drop. You are also not presenting a 30C air temp environment. The cubes are thus staying too wet and you may have got some stem rot. Reduce your watering to suit the lower temperature.
You need a clonebox which maintains a 30C air temp. Do you have a proper 30C horticultural heat mat or are you trying to use a heating pad for people? What size and type of RW cube are you using. My cloning thread deals only with watering figures for 40mm plastic wprapped cubes. Smaller cubes or unwrapped cubes may behave differently.
Cut the watering by half, give only about 12-13g (12-13ml) per watering (keeping in mind that if they're still fairly wet after 12h you should not give them any more water), check to see that the cubes do not fully dry out between your watering intervals. Pull the stems out of the cubes- the tips are probably rotted. Recut them and stick them back in another part of the cube. They'll perk up in a day if they are not too far gone. The clock starts ticking again when you have to recut, though. It'll be at least 7 days before you see roots, provided you correct the overwatering. When a clone goes a long time without roots, it will begin to exhaust the stored nutrients and will begin to yellow. Without roots, the plant can't take up nutrients, so it will eventually run out and you'll have to compost that one and try again.
Remember, all the stem needs to set root is a persistently damp environment, it never needs wet. You should not be able to shake any water out of a cube which is just damp and not saturated.
I reckon you'd die of boredom before 15 mins passed. 
