advice on putting a hole in the wall

I have two cupboards in my flat right next to each other. One has the boiler in. I am planning to use the other one to grow.

I tested my 600 hps in there ant ir got up to 100 fh real quick. So.... My plan is to use a hole saw to cut a vent duct hole into the cupboard with the boiler in and duct all the hot air out.

The problem... The fuse box is in my grow room. And I can see when I look in the fusebox that the wiring all goes into the wall that separates the two cupboards. I am concerned about hitting cables inside the wall. How do I avoid this?

might want a plan "B"

BobBitchen said:

might want a plan "B"

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Like what?

oill said:

Like what?

Click to expand...

plan B

tell us what we are working with

house or apartment
own or rent (how much time left)
where are u ....are we talking hot temps all the time or do u have winters or only winters
do u live alone ......is this on the downlow hidden op
what kind of grow do u want to do.........soil/hydro.....photo/autos
what is your budget
are u commited to your 600 w Hid (MH is for growth and HPS is for flowering) High-intensity discharge
how many rooms ......is there a spare junk room
what kind of area do u live in ......city suburbs warehouse

Unless you have the hands of a surgeon, I would skip the hole saw on this one. The only real option you have is to open the wall up with a hammer, assuming its drywall. Once you get it open a little you'll see what your up against with the wiring. Don't use the claw end or swing like an ax murderer and you won't likely hurt any wiring that is between the walls. It's more work, but it's much safer in the long run. If the wall covering happens to be wood, look around at it. Anytime I get that option, I'll always use screws to fasten the board in place. That way the next guy has easy access, if he ever needs it.

Do you mind if I ask what your plan for the exhaust is once it hits the boiler area?

justugh said:

plan B

tell us what we are working with

house or apartment
own or rent (how much time left)
where are u ....are we talking hot temps all the time or do u have winters or only winters
do u live alone ......is this on the downlow hidden op
what kind of grow do u want to do.........soil/hydro.....photo/autos
what is your budget
are u commited to your 600 w Hid (MH is for growth and HPS is for flowering) High-intensity discharge
how many rooms ......is there a spare junk room
what kind of area do u live in ......city suburbs warehouse

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Flat, in northern hemisphere. Mild all year round. Gets up to 30 in summer and 0 in winter.

It's rented with 9 months left.

I'm using a ufo 180w led to veg and then switching to 600w hps.

The veg is in a tent and the flower is in this new cupboard

droopy107 said:

Unless you have the hands of a surgeon, I would skip tsaw he hole saw on this one. The only real option you have is to open the wall up with a hammer, assuming its drywall. Once you get it open a little you'll see what your up against with the wiring. Don't use the claw end or swing like an ax murderer and you won't likely hurt any wiring that is between the walls. It's more work, but it's much safer in the long run. If the wall covering happens to be wood, look around at it. Anytime I get that option, I'll always use screws to fasten the board in place. That way the next guy has easy access, if he ever needs it.

Do you mind if I ask what your plan for the exhaust is once it hits the boiler area?

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Planning to run it through the filter and that's it. Leave the door ajar a little maybe

maybe ditch the HPS and look into LEDs again....

it would save you a lot of headache trying to spend time and money on keeping temps barely ok for MJ growth

cause if its at 100 degrees its gonna take some serious ventilation to get that heat out

oill said:

Flat, in northern hemisphere. Mild all year round. Gets up to 30 in summer and 0 in winter.

It's rented with 9 months left.

I'm using a ufo 180w led to veg and then switching to 600w hps.

The veg is in a tent and the flower is in this new cupboard

Click to expand...

ok plan b

u are converting a cloest ............pick one u like and empty the stuff out
u need to take pics with your phone and save them (door open closed what the hinges look like all that good stuff)
now take that door off the hinges carefully and put someplace it will not get messed up......before u put it away measure it make it easy to pick up new one)

head to store get a cheap new door to fit your frame ...........unpainted cheap door
1 lower part u need to cut a 12x12 inch box out of it (this is now your intake ) u can put a 12x12 filter in the door held in place with duct tape filter the air clean keep bugs out and help on lightleaks
2 u need to hang your door .........make sure opens closes all that

3 on the inside upper part of the door u have 2 choices u can mount a fan on the door like a inline fan or u can mount a booster 6inch 240cfm fan .........the inline has brackets u can nail in ....booster u have to jerry rig something but it is a cheap door only for this so go nutty

4 mount the ropes to hang your light over the plant and u are done

in 7 months take all the stuff down and put it back to the way it should be getting ready for inspection before the agreement is up ..............in our country they have to tell u they are coming into your home with 24 to 72 hours notice before they come in ..............so if they ever say they are coming in u can take your new door off and put old one back

the smell is anouther matter u will need a carbon scrubber or a ozone gen to remove the smell ...............but u would be dumping the hot air into the home your summer ac bills might be higher but winter heating will be lower

if u are worried about cops ..............look up IR blocking in amazon or something u will see mylar wrapped bubble wrap that will hide the heat from the light and as the air is in the house it will only look like u like it warmer

Plan B

At first I thought Justugh was trolling for you, but after reading his plan B, I would have to agree with his idea. Simple and eloquent, assuming you could find a matching door/hinge combo. If not, you will have to pull the trim and doorframe which will leave traces of removal unless you fix everything when you put it back in.

On the other hand, PatchKid's take is simpler yet, unless you're hell bent for leather on the HPS. I've seen some amazing LED grows posted on this site.

droopy107 said:

At first I thought Justugh was trolling for you, but after reading his plan B, I would have to agree with his idea. Simple and eloquent, assuming you could find a matching door/hinge combo. If not, you will have to pull the trim and doorframe which will leave traces of removal unless you fix everything when you put it back in.

On the other hand, PatchKid's take is simpler yet, unless you're hell bent for leather on the HPS. I've seen some amazing LED grows posted on this site.

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naw man i was asking ?s to give him the best answer

if he was a hydro set up about the same thing except i will tell him get one of those flood things they have for washing machines it is plastic like 3 inches high size of washing machine made if it leaks not to go everywhere

if it was his place or staying for a long time (2 3 years) then it could be jusified to hire someone modifiy the place and then hire them to change it back before he got out but only 9 months .........that is his best way to do what he wants and still get his money back when he moves out (he can take the door with him and repeat or take the parts and rebuild at new place)

aslong as he has that 12x12 in the door for a intake low to the bottom and a cfm of 170 to 240 he should get a great plant with only 7 degree heat change .........any luck he could set a crosswind so the cooler air is sucked down and the hotter air is sucked out (i mean like a hallway closet kitchen pantry bed room) .......could do this with a one of those 2 or 3 fans that go in the windows just place it up high to move the hot air of the house outside and leave a window up across the house open to drawl in cooler air

A hole in the wall seems more simple. I can fill it afterwards and paint over. This would appear more normal than a door with vents in it.

It's a bubbler set up. I'm just doing one at The moment

Another thing I was thinking of doing g is getting a sheet of glass to go across the whole cupboard like way up and take the air out of The Top section with A small gap. This might keep a lot of The heat away from Then plants

oill said:

A hole in the wall seems more simple. I can fill it afterwards and paint over. This would appear more normal than a door with vents in it.

It's a bubbler set up. I'm just doing one at The moment

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Nope. Justugh's plan is waaaay better

oill said:

A hole in the wall seems more simple. I can fill it afterwards and paint over. This would appear more normal than a door with vents in it.

It's a bubbler set up. I'm just doing one at The moment

Click to expand...

the plan b i gave u i know will get u good plants if u make sure the air flow is good ............the way u are talking about doing is much more work and not even sure it is going to give u a plant worth the trouble

my way u take the door off and put back the one they gave u(20 mins work) ........and u are done with way u need to cut the hole run the ducting lock it in then remove it patch the wall and paint it (hour work with wait time for paint to dry /match and 2nd coating.....plus if they see it they can charge u all kinds of money to open the wall up look see what u did then seal it up and repaint the whole place all on your cost)

u never want to do anything to a place u rent ......and if u do u want something simple and quick like the door so u are not exposed to all that possible cost at the end ...........rem u are breaking the agreement by altering the place with out the owners written ok so u are on the hook to resorting it back to the way it was (not a patch job they can ask for the whole thing to be redone they are with in legal rights )


bubble then u should get one of those washer liner things ......will protect your floor if a spill or leak happends

Well I think that a situation like that where your dealing w/ a fusebox and electrical wires is, get a qualified electrician to identify a safe spot to drill.. just don't have anything there related to a weed grow. (like a 600w light, mylar etc.